Routes in South East

This is a nice variant start to Send In The Clowns. Start as for the original in the niche but don’t go up the main crackline. Instead, climb out L onto the arête, climbing this to the rooflet, and then up the juggy orange face as per the original, or finish up Big Top for the best exposure!

Starts at corner/weakness 4m R of VF. Up, then mantle awkward sloper ledge, moving up through the overhanging block system (mind the tongue orchid). Finish up the crack just to the left of the obvious corner topping out to the L of the dead tree. The top half is reputed to be very good.

Not good fun. Start at roof-capped gully. Climb up gully to roof and jam out L side (ouch!) onto face, up and R of bush to RB, then up R to crack to top.

The leaning, low-angle pillar, and wide shaft behind. The delicate crux is on the slabby pillar (no pro), so don't fall off!

Go south from Pick-a-Pocket for about 35 metres until you can enter an amphitheatre that can be entered on the left. There is a slab on the right.

This route takes the chimney and slab on the right hand side of this. Chimney and slab to top. SLCD’s for belay. Rap chain at the end of boulder.

Start from the belay tree on PTP ledge, which is 4m R of the start of G. Move 1m to the L and up through the obvious chimney

Only fun if you enjoy cranking off tiny holds. Rap to big tree on ledge and pre clip first RB! From tree (and not using it!) up with extremely thin, long moves past RB, some gear to second RB. Climb straight up R side of second RB, gear to top.

Location & height of this climb is unknown at this time.

Avoids the hard start. Starts 2m right of SC. Rap to big tree on ledge and pre clip first RB. Up to RB, climb up and L (some gear) to RB on SC. Finish as for SC.

Start in Aslan

ALL ROUTES LISTED L TO R.

Belay off your abseil line. Start 2m R of pillar on L side of ledge. Mantle small ledge and place gear in horizontal crack on L. Proceed up the slight-rightwards shallow crack (small cams) to the next horizontal break and awesome pockets. Finish up the twin cracks to ledge, and top.

Follow track to Turtle rock, as you walk past first face you come to notice large obvious crack, unbolted, first accents? could use trad or set up toprope. Difficult finger crack start that gets easier as you go up before easy top out.

Check every foot hold and hand hold before placing weight and don't grab the jugs. They at at risk of being pulled off the wall. General wall features are good for holds otherwise. Worth a look if your bored and want a quick climb with a long walk down. Beautiful scenery and setting. Not a lot of climbing. Climb can be seen from western side of mount. Follow road/path down the rear of the path and look back at the mount to see the face.

Belay off your abseil line. Starts 3m L of corner at right end of ledge, below big orange hand-hold. Start up wall to good ledge (medium SLCD). Straight up (small SLCD) and then towards horizontal break (medium SLCD). Veer L to layback crack and then up to L side of tree. Up ramp to top.

About five metres right of German Quality is a short overhanging crack. Up the crack past a small tree to finish up a small chute at the top.

Stickclip high RB and power up overhung bowl. Up arête past second RB to ledge. Finish up No Idea's DF on the arête. See topo 5.

After a long week without climbing due to injury, addicted climbers start suffering Climbing Deprivation. After going with his friends to the crag to just belay and take pictures the subject develops Climbing Deprivation Anxiety Disorder. The symptoms include palpitations or pounding heart, accelerated heart rate, sweating, trembling or shaking, dry mouth (not due to medication or dehydration), trying to mentally on-sight a 25, and falling. The only apparent cure for this disorder is to find an easy nearby climb to solo. At Black Stump, this is it.

Easy and dirty climb. A few nice hand jambs and back footing and you are on the ledge. From there, take some pictures of your girlfriend doing a real climb or your friends struggling to clean Little Wednesday. Then chimney up and top out to clean one of your friend's climbs and at least feel you did something productive for the day. If a 7 is too hard for your injury, then change your sneakers and get your climbing shoes.

Since it was my only climb in a whole week I might be overselling it. It's probably (definitely) an awful climb not worth doing.

Now follow the track to the summit of Turtle Rock. When the track along the slab narrows to become a track through trees you should be able to locate a small, undercut crack on the right…

Up.

Start: a few meters Right of #12 chockstone - on the right arete in front of the chimney on the Eastern side. Scramble through the chimney in front of The Shark's Fin & #1 route, under the chock stone, scramble up onto the boulder. (NB: uncertain that this is an actual route. No bolts spotted by this author in October 2020.)

Stickclip first RB, then climb up R of it (hard) to ledge. Black slab (two RB’s) to ledge, then up corner on gear (sling for chockstone). A #5 SLCD would help for the top section.

From Micro Epic walk straight down the slab for thirty metres to drop down onto a boulder. From this boulder climb down the tree (!) on the right to the short crack. A tad contrived…

Up the crack and then right for one metre (but don’t bridge the gully…) then up the continuation to the top. Allen Hansen and Shane Chemello Dec 1983