Routes in South East for selected grade

Up the bulby horns out the roof to anchors. Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular. Back Jump to clean and lower from second bolt.

Fantastic, absorbing vertical climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses at the grade.

Start: Just R of 'Squealer'

Already a classic.

Killer little overhang. Fun, punchy moves. Lower-off. Find a gullible seconder to clean.

The right most line on the wall before the corner.

Start: Start as for 'Howler' and veer right. Wailer has a separate 1st bolt 1 meter right of 'Howler'.

This second climb established at the cliff is a demanding steep route, start from the little cave. Avoid doing a double heel hook no hands rest at the 3rd and you'll walk away without ruptured abbs like visiting Brit Ben Heason!

3 UB's up the shallow corner and slab to base of the steep wall with seam running up it. Long and strong moves on big holds up this (welcome, gym climbers) to ledge. Two rings off the ledge then move R into the the sustained finish of Over The Falls.

Slab to some tricky pocket pulling. Sustained headwall also not a giveaway. Probably the stiffest 25 here.

U-bolts then FH's. Up easy corner as per original, but then straight up the face. Really great pocket moves. Some deviate briefly into OTF just before the ledge which makes it easier. Possible to go direct - both are fun.

Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 cam for the top or dare the run out. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position!

Climb The Green Room to the ledge and instead of going right, climb directly up without deviating past 4 UB's to another anchor.

Sharp pocketed climbing for masochists.

Start: 5 metres left of great devoid.

Go up SHGTTD and continue in the YCT extension. Adds more climbing to a short route but no change in grade.

The original line. Sit start on jugs in the middle of the wall. Head straight up and mantle out. Classic

Starts 3m left of CH. Small roof leads to easy top.

Start route directly under the one and only bolt on very small crimps. Extremely thin crimping up blank face. Finishes on small ledge with DBB.

Start up TDLW for three UBs, then trend slightly L past FHs up the ever steepening wall past some crazy looking horns and the odd dodgy aid bolt. The top horn (the biggest at Coolum) rings when you tap it! Ride 'em cowboy!

Good compression boulder problem then glory to the chains!

The holds bite. A crimper problem to an easy finish up the slab. Quite good.

Start on good undercling, straight up and mantle. The first ascent of this problem was done by Mr Rick White in the mid 1970s. Respect!

Start on the cobble under the roof. After a dynamic RH move from the crimp rail to a good hold on the lip, smack your LH up to the sloper. A difficult mantle makes the send feel hard-earned yet satisfying. Aptly named for the sharpness of the holds.

Sit start on sloper, throw to right pinch, delicate foot then hump to lip.

Start 2m R of 'Brisbane Bitter', 1m L of 'Chip-a-Holdaway'. Marked "FX".

Solo up drillhole to very high RB. Up face past FH and RB, then pass the dyno crux to clip the final RB. Slightly R to DBB shared with 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

Eight Minute Abs from the batman start. Mostly jugs with a bit of spice at the end.

Start up the slab. Unique holds and fun compression climbing see you to and through the corner. The original ending saw you clipping the chains from devious crimpers!

For a nicer finish - clip the anchors and then continue traversing right and up to finish at the French Connection anchors.

Start this crag classic, on the left side of the big tree- matched on the predominate jug. Traverse the big bulge to a powerful, morpho slap. Finish up and left.

1. 20m (22) Great rock, never too hard, just hold on. Just right of Morning of the Earth, high first bolt. Slick, Arapiles-style face climbing.

2. 15m (25) Straight up from belay passing FH onto large ledge. Clip FH on hanging wall and swing your way up this (two more FHs). Gain finger-sized crack (trad) that sends you left into the 'Bell cave' belay. The hard section is short and steep. Powerful moves sees you into one of Tibro's most private areas. Watch your back.

Decent: 30m abseil or two shorter ones back to the ground.

Named "Forever Young" by Rob when he freed the line... although it had already been named Carrion Comfort by the FA party! A visionary effort by Rob Staszewski, and, for a long time, the hardest route put up by a local climber. Desperate locking and laybacks lead the way up the leaning corner. Great gear can be found, stopping to place it is the trick! Rap anchor. A test piece for any aspiring crack master!

Climb Crazy Horny skipping the 4th bolt, to anchor on Full Metal Traverse via a two bolt link-up. A bouldery finale actually involves downclimbing. A better finish.

Start in the little cave in front of the tree. Boulder up to stance below technical face, grapple and crank your way up before a punchy throw gets you to a welcome rest at ⅔ height. Spicy boulder to finish at the top of the wall.

Linkup. Avoids solo start to 'XXXX'. Climb to 2nd bolt on 'Chip-a-Holdaway' then step L to original 'XXXX' line.

Fantastic climbing and superb positions can be found the whole way up this thin and daunting line. Despite appearances, brilliant protection in the form of small wires and micro cams can be found the whole way.

Climb up Blood, Sweat and Tears until the tree. From the tree, step up and R to follow the increasingly difficult line. Excellent climbing featuring one hell of a sting in the tail!

Originally given 26 due to the direct start, however the description above outlines the variation which all (or at least most?) repeats have since utilised. Consensus has settled at 25 for this somewhat pacified version of the line.

Climb Dave until you're at the double UBs above the diving board. Continue directly out the roof for some of the steepest climbing and THE biggest, craziest holds at Coolum. Finish at 'CFT''s anchor.

Shares first 3 bolts of Korova then up the bulging face right of the corner past another 4 bolts. Left of the block at the top, compressing past the final bolt, to the anchors of Toils.

Sit start with fingery holds and power up to a jug, before a quest from left to right on an array of classy holds. Top out the same as “Dirty Action” on the tallest part of the Boulder. This is a classic for the grade, on the Granite Belt.

4m L of LF past the amazing pockets.

Instead of starting outside the cave as for Bane (full strength), sit start inside with the low LH sidepull undercling, a RH on the good chalky rail, and a heel hook above your head. Pull on and make some powerful moves finishing as for the full strength.

Up 'The French Connection' but head left after the shield crux to the 'Terminus of Desire' anchors for an easier finish. This was the original finish for 'The French Connection'.

Start on right, finish up #4.

Accessed by climbing Are We Dancer. Climb the smooth marble, orange wall and head into the steep black corner. Steep and adventurous with excellent movement. A must do!

Sit start underneath the right side of the cave (looking from the outside of the cave). Pull on with a cool little ironstone crimp LH and a RH sloper rail. Do some powerful moves up into the steep tube, finishing on the central juggy flake, inside the cave. The rock on the back of the cave is all out, on the ground. Think about bridging across.

Easy to find; it’s the biggest roof on the mountain. Much less intimidating than it looks from below. Start 6m L of Dontworry.com at the tree. Prepare yourself for some adventure-sport climbing! Take the time to get the rigging right for this one or you won’t be able to clip the anchor due to drag. Doable with a single rope if you use LOTS of long slings. Easy ramble to the roof. Punch the juggy roof, turn the lip and if you’ve done everything right you’ll be able to pull rope for the anchor clip Impossible to clean from the anchor, so back-jump the roof and lower-off. Rebolted Dec 2013.

Stand start up the cool pockets with a HARD committing mantle.

Stand start to the left of the crack/runnel feature, with the RH in a shallow pocket and the LH in a good slot. Move up the blunt arête/slab with slopey feet and hands, and balancy yet athletic movement. Avoids all of the holds to the right of the crack, including the blocky pedestal at the start and footholds.

Oliver Rickford Kieran Pates

An extension to Gravel Pit, keep climbing as to top out on A Mystery Unravel It, just before the lip travers right finish on the big jug

Climb to Chevy's last bolt, go left and finish up GA.

The classic of this wall begins at the top of Sundae Slab DBB. From the ‘Cream ledge’ climb the line of hangers just right of the large black & orange streak up the centre of IceCream wall. Great sustained climbing on solid, marbly rock. The last boulder problem is cryptic and of very high quality- so leave some gas in the tank!

Climb Gravel Pit, then climb directly left into Jabbas jug. Much better movement than Star Jug Destroyer.

Climb QR then instead of heading right and up the corner, go straight up through the roof and overlap. Pumpy moves lead to a glorious throw to the top. A harder, better and more sustained finish to QR.

A short but burly sequence up the bulge. Start in a sit with the crimp rail.

Oliver Rickford Jsbc

Far left upper route. 7-8 FHs to DUBB. Access via Friends in High Places, then traverse L to DFHB on ledge.

Sit Start on undercling pocket with R hand and crimp with L. Push heels in and pull in and up on undercling for crimp with L. Pocket and rail are out! crimp your way up. Brad

Traverse L to R starting at Spork layaway and traversing all the way to Funk arete to top out. This traverse can also be done R to L and is slightly harder. "There and Back Again" begins below Funk Arete, does the R-L traverse to the Spork layaway, then returns L-R all the way back again to finish up Funk Arete. V8/grade 29 (maybe harder with the broken hold). With 30 odd moves more of a route than a boulder problem!

Brutal but amazing climbing up the searing corner R of EF. Up and L into the seam proper to a small stance. Blast up this to the ledge above. Completely unrelenting in the second half. Despite its appearances this route is well protected. Bring loads of small wires and cams.

Start at the low LHS on good holds, and follow the weakness traversing diagonally right on strong sloped holds, find knee bar rest. Push through matching undercling into sharp quartz rock with long moves, keeping feet on soild rock, hug the last big blocks being cautious of the last one. rock over mantle. 8m boulder Video is on the net, v4 holds gets a v5 as conditions are rarely bomber this close to the coast. There are 3 alternate finishes all of them are quality and stay at v5.

Stay hungry. Tweener between Toils and You Only Hide. Shares a couple of holds but climbs virtually independent. Tricksy and sustained.

Kieran Pates

Start: 4m R of Hungry Beast at bolt on rope traverse.

Up orange stone to rooflet and wonder jug. Turn the roof (crux) to huge undercling flake, then final headwall.

Sit start on sloper/pinch, L up to sloper and continue on up. Top out any way you like.This is an eliminate which does not use the big flake/slopey jug hold on the right. Everything else is in

Start with L on positive gaston and right on sidepull. Big throw to lip and mantle.

Climbs from seperate anchor on the left side of the upper wall. Exquisite moves up to and through the bulge lead to thought provoking balancy climbing on the upper wall. Amazing anchor position in the eyrie with a great view of Brisbane city to the North.

Sit Start inside on the right side of the cave on two pinches. Pull on- stem out to the large rail (the inside rail on the opposite side of Orient express), then campus and heelhook your way out to “Too softs” mantle. Pull on to the rail for a more natural start and you can have a 4.

Start as for 'Bufo Marinus' but continue up to the L of the small ledge with anchors, finishing at the 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge instead.

Climb “The Flying Scotsman” (the inside rail opposite side of Orient Express) but instead of finishing on Too Soft, climb Aiokiasof. Campus training helps! FA and beta clip- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyWWiJhWKp8

Sit-Start as for Lazarus but instead of doing Too Soft to finish, now go thunder across Aiokiasof. Finish up the V1 for a top out.

Up Minotaur to cave. Now right out cave and launch rightward along traverse line passing bolts. Trend up (crux) and right across face. Sustained, and interesting climbing the whole way.

Classic arete climbing. For the original version, go up BL, step out L at the fixed hanger. Blast up the arete past 2 more hangers while your right arm gets the workout of the century! Finish up BL.

Get safe at TDLW anchor and pull and re-drop your rope for a ground belay. From this point, climb up and out left on FHs and biiig holds to a confounding and onsight-ruining finale.

Continue past anchor and pass three more bolts on headwall above to a chain. Makes an otherwise small route a little longer.

Start about 15m L of Web.

Consists of two hard moves left of the bolts. Short, contrived boulder problem on rope, would be a boulder route if the landing was better. Up between small flat aprons on thin edges passing 2 RBs and finishing at DBB.

Start 2m R of Forsaken beneath deep orange shield of rock and steepest overhang. Up you go.

Sit start as for Repeater, but head left to a good LH Pinch and RH flat hold, and dyno to the prominent bump on the lip and top out. Will be a V4 for shorties.

Like a castle hill problem. Subtle holds, lots of tension.

Harder than it looks. Stick to the scoop/arête on the left side of the boulder.

Absolutely brilliant climbing, although possibly one of the most sustained routes here. Brilliant bridging up the open-book corner to the flake at the top.

Last line before the wall rounds the bend. Quality micro-route. Easy start, hard boulder problem direct through the shield, pumpy little finish.

Featuring some very burly undercling/pinch moves, nice sequences and a balance slab finish. Six RBs to anchors. Bloody great climbing, but still needs a good clean.

Start as for "Tree Fall" and traverse delicately to top out above "It Gets Better". A plethora of feet prevent you from stepping in the cave without contriving the problem. Unsuspectingly compelling and technical movement.

4m R. FH's. The slanty looking “cruxy” route up the orange streak. Get ready for some serious “Body English”.

Start up Wailer and head left after the second last bolt, finishing up Howler clipping its last bolt.

Left variation of 'Happy Apple'. Sit start then straight up

Although top roped by numerous people in the past, it took Matt's vision to actually prepare and lead this amazing route. Named after the 3 Rings for the Elven Kings in Tolkein's masterpiece "The Lord of the Rings". Up a thin line on natural gear to a very tricky step left. Move up steep, thin and unrelenting face climbing past 3 ring bolts. From there, easily up and R to the top of Theory (need big cam).

Left hand in small divot, right hand on slopery crimp. Fancy toe hook to move to horizontal break and smear up the mossy slab. Grade easier if you start with the right hand already in the horizontal break.

The impressive line up the arete.

A committing and sustained line that follows the impressive headwall all the way up. Powerful and thin start on delicate holds, progressive and flowy moves through the bolts to the crux at the top.

Rob’s problem. R-hand on small undercling. L-hand over lip on bad sloper. Throw R-hand to big edge. Match. Throw R-hand out R to hold over lip. Mantle.

Stand start with low crimps, moving across crimpy, technical climbing, to a long, cruxy reach.

This techno, crimp-ladder begins as a sit-start on TTA. Pull on and move up, stepping left, finishing up ISCT.

This technical line climbs the black and orange streak in the centre of the wall, landmarked by a perma-draw half way up the route. Cruxy and engaging. Get your hips into the wall and earn your cookies

Starts 5m right of LS&2SB arete. Climbs straight up the overlapping rooflets and wall onto blunt arete. Technical climbing and some wild moves. Useful to have longer draws on bolts 1 & 5 for rope flow.

Sit start on the arete with slopey pocket for RH and thin crystal-embedded low crimp for LH. Follow the natural line of crimps up and left, topping out in the centre of the wall.

Stack pads creatively to ensure a comfortable sit position. Iain Hunter

Start on undercling under roof, up to positive hold and reach for high sloper on the lip.

Sit start in the small ravine with two positive but small fingery holds down low. Figure out a crimpy way to get out of the ravine and straight up to a compressing top out.

Starts under the overhanging bob in the middle of the cave. Juggy for the first 4 bolts. High clip in the roof and a great sequence of bouldering leading to the big flake. Bust your way right on jugs to a pumpy finish in the black crack/corner. High anchor over the top.

The continuation of Pneumothorax past 3 more bolts through orange bulge to anchors. You can also access this by climbing TT to its third last bolt and heading right into this climb at the ledge (rope probably runs better this way).

Ramble up the vertical wall with some great warm up moves into the left side of the overhang up high, pull hard onto the face and enjoy the pump!

Start: At the far right of the fixed rope. Joins the route to the left after four bolts after the steep part of the wall. Good climbing, and a bit tricky to read.

Climb As for Doctor Pinocchio but at it's last bolt traverse right into the crux of Overseer and finish up this. A long link-up with an epic view at the chains.

Stickclip ringbolt in corner. Scramble up to start ledge. Fierce layback straight off the deck (poor shorties!), then onto good holds on the slab (RB). Up slab and then juggy wall (RB) to sloping topout and useless anchor back from the edge.