Routes in South East for selected grade

Unfortunately, start as for TGDRA. Once above roof, continue directly up corner. Phil’s finest route-naming effort!

5m R at the orange, blocky corner. Heinous hand/fist crack start (tape!) to beneath roof. Swing L through roof step L and climb the arête past a RB to a runout finish (don’t fall!).

3m R at the short overhung wall. Hueco to break. Clip RB, then crimp up to pocket and ledge (place #1.5 SLCD in pocket after latching the ledge). Mantle, then easy corner on gear. You’re not doing it properly if you use the blocky footholds on the L down low.

The overhung arête 3m R. Reachy start (RB) past loose sandy stuff gives a RB and a crank to a ledge (sling). RB on L and easily to top. Belay and rap from RB station.

One of the best routes on the cliff offering superb climbing on excellent rock. Start at double RB belay. Climbs up left side of arête passing four RB’s before switching to the right side of the arête passing another four RB’s to top.

Just L of Desperation Prow 's ringbolted arête is a very chalked up corner. Okay, so it’s not chalk. Still, it’s a great line. The start is bouldery on thin, techy wire placements leading into the stained corner with good gear. The top section offers overhanging fingerlocks. Finish by climbing good holds on either side of the offwidth.

When looking out from the top of the Mythologica Wall it’s hard to miss the impressive looking prow out L, which is split by a ledge in the middle. Cerberus climbs the lower bit, Tartarus the upper. Starts 5m L of SID. Pull up into cave and shuffle along to the end. Sit down, feet low, lean out and clip RB (if you’re scared - temp #1 SLCD in the cave roof). Crank past the RB in an airy position to break (gear). Up crack (wire) to ledge. Belay off #2 SLCD and RB

See topo 4. Start just R of the big orange corner of IRGC. Stickclip RB, then boulder out over the void (crux). Easily up arête to ledge with daunting bulge above. Carefully crank up to clip high RB, then power through on good holds. Follow the crackline from here to the top.

Full value! See topo 4. Climb the original past the bulge. Instead of going up the crackline, move up L to a RB on the arête. Up the airy arête, then climb the wall just R of rubbishy gully.

Rap down onto big stance in corner. Natural belay. Bridge up short, steep corner to easy ground, before traversing R (easy but exposed) with pretty average protection in pockets to man-sized hueco on arête (good gear). Up arête to roof (RB). Kneebar to reach high up L on headwall. Up arête to tree belay.

Avoids the hard start. Starts 2m right of SC. Rap to big tree on ledge and pre clip first RB. Up to RB, climb up and L (some gear) to RB on SC. Finish as for SC.

Start just to the left of Shark’s Fin arete. Make your way up the initial ramp and then head out on the L wall under the roof, spectacular moves are encountered to bust through the roof. One small loose biscuit about a foot below the roof should be avoided but apart from that the rock appears to be very sound. Plenty of great trad placement present themselves to protect this awesome outing. Finish as for Neptune’s Treasure Chest.

Up corners following RBs and into cracked corner system on gear and onto cracked face, up the face/finger crack to a cruel and unusual exit into a smooth groove, could be a little sandy here depending on traffic. From there up any line to the top.

Start: Just before the white vertical beach look for the first ring at head height.

The overhung hand crack just L of the L corner at the top of the gully. Appearances can be deceiving on this one. Easy climbing down low and slab climbing up high for the top out.

Bouldery bright orange start past low RB, then trend easily R (small SLCD) into corner. Up this (RB) to sit down on ledge. Lean across L under roof (gear), then blast through, and up the nice crackline to ledge. Walk off L, or climb the line behind (the “Lessee” Finish) to top of flat platform.

Up thin crimpers and side pulls to smears avoiding the easier crackline of Other Won.

Same start as Up the Web, but moving over into the top out for Silky Strand.

Climb through overhanging blocks, then trend right following diagonal flake, before tricky mantle move to gain arete ledge. Finish up arete. No gear in the second half of the route.

Alteratively, stem over to chimney, then to top. Watch your rope on the arete.

Start middle of the wave on good holds, head straight up and out.

Start on the horizontal crimp rail/vague arete.

Sit Start with both hands on lowest rail

S.E. Arete of Pudding rock

Sit start hands on side pull crimp to start then straight up over the bulge to easy top.

Stand start use crimps and some Wu wei to reach to good edge on top.

Classic lower grade for sure. Stand start RH pinch left on the Arete then up and over to finish. Blinking brilliant.

Lovely flowy moves up the arete left of crack - the block right of the crack is out.

In the chasm between the two big boulders. Sit start the steep hand crack with a double jam, up to arete then lay back to top. Boulder behind you is out. Difficulty will be hand size dependant.

Start matched in pocket move left into crack system. Loose

Arete right beside the road. Bad landing.

First boulder 20m from the road in the pines. Straight up the face. Start matched in good slot.

Stand start with high LH on arete left of Scrotum Face. Follow nubbins slightly right of the arete and upwards.

Start at the lowest part of the crevice and wiggle to the top.

Boulder #9, Climb the face to the right of Fart Factory and its high flake (unless you are going to poop your pants).

Sit start Lh sidepull, Rh on rail. Up to dirty gulley.

Boulder #1, Sit start on good rail.

Use the large lumps on the left hand side to follow up the boulder to the top.

Located on Repose Boulder. Jump start match on far right side of rail from ground(spotters place pad after established on start hold). mantle and traverse left to vertical runnel, top out to the left.

Tensiony move off crimps

Stand start on the far left side of the Boulder with obvious holds, up and straight across right to the top Right of the Boulder. Use your feet wisely!

Stand Start with high LH and foot on rail.

Boulder number 6 in Pinnacle's guide, but round to the right of the pictured face where there are holds in the middle of the boulder. Sit start as low as possible.

Climb the crack to the top

Bat hang start lying down head in the cave and feet out. Two hands on the first obvious hold and work your feet up. Once your feet are solid it's pretty much a hands free bat hang, 180 on the juggy ledge and mantle at the top. Really cool boulder, we were amazed that nobody had found it before.

The Arete to the right of S.W. Begin in a sit

Follow up the arete to the right of Dexterity. strong start into a fingery balancy top section.

Stand start up the slab, slapping up the left arête and face.

Stand start up the arête.

Sit start on undercling, making way up good holds to top.

On your left as you head up toward the big Dream On bloc. Small and a bit contrived but perfectly formed, and loads of fun. Sit start with both feet and left hand on the left of the two foot blocks, and right hand on arete. Climb the arete to the left facing finger jug and mantle it out.

Tim Nicholson

Start on high crimps and mantle out. Mind the fall zone above the sharp rock

Sit start on the lowest possible slopers, on the striking horizontal arete. A classic lesson in arete traversing. Jsbc

Starting 1.5m left of The Razors Edge, up seam to small holds, then up to jug rail.

Start at the razor sharp thin crack just left of the big vertical crack. Follow the thin crack left, then shoot for the top.

Stand start low left hand on positive hold on arete. The detached flake is out as a footer. Pop up to next positive hold on arete and follow the lip Under the balancing boulder top out on the right to the very top of boulder.

Start well to the left of Spirit Fingers on very obvious jug. Traverse lip rightwards and top out in the middle.

Left of Belt BNB. Stand start on crimps and climb up the mossy face to top out on decent holds.

Start as for “Sassy girl”, and get your mossy sloper compression on, traversing right into “Not My Problem”.

SDS on the block. Compression up and left

Stand start, LH and RH either side of the arete on crimps and away you go!

Stand start middle of boulder LH side pull uncling RH crimp with thumb latch high foot.

Stand start on good edges up the arete.

Stand start with high Lh pocket, Rh on crimp. Pull on and campus to the juggy lip and mantle.

Located near the Wild West Boulder

Alt start to Consumption on the right. Begin in a sit with LH crack and RH crimp. Straight up to finish as Consumption

Sit start with low horizontal break. Up to next break and cut left. Find nonexistent holds, slab surfing to the top.

Stand start with LH on a good sidepull, find your way through a pleasant sequence up.

The left leaning ledge/arete running up the right lip of the gravity boulder. Start just left of the large Stagshorn Fern (avoid damaging at all costs!). Follow the lip line up and left until you reach the highest point where you turn the mantle to top out.

Originally a sit start problem on a low undercut(V4) (believed to have been ripped off sometime in late 2019/early 2020). This route is still a well worth doing stand start. Hands wide to start for a compression move to gain the bulge and up. Now more like V2/3. Careful of your right arm on the initial moves a fall back and right past the tree would be bad for you!

Right variant of CPB. Stand start on the right side with sloper LH and Rh Gaston. Finesse the bulge along the horizontal crack into CPB.

Jsbc

Stand start on Arete left of Clever creatures.

Squat start with sandy good holds on the mound, straight up to a long move. Ascend the ramp, up and over the next bloc above.

On the smallest boulder of the three making the 'cave', make your way up the left side avoiding touching the giant boulder to the left.

Slow down, chill out and pump the brakes. Stand start with crimps and move up to an engaging mantle.

Climb the perfect finger crack using locks and lie back technique. Located uphill of boulder #19 as listed in the Peter Crane topo.

Up obvious crack to R of the convenient bail-tree into engaging climbing with good hands and fists. Good intro to jamming.

Stand start a little bit left of the tree. Up the small holds on the slab. Trends slightly right to the jug at the topout.

On boulder 42 of the Peter Crane and Pinnacle Sports Guides

Stand start at low bulge in rock. Straight up the slab.

On boulder 42 of the Peter Crane and Pinnacle Sports guides.

Sit start. Sharp, right leaning layback feature in the lowest of the stacked boulders opposite the torpedo area. Great hands, delicate footholds.

Sit start left of D.A with crimps and a right heel on. Traverse left along the low ball arete until you reach the juggy rail on the peak and mantle out.