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Access: Cania Gorge National Park contains many sites of aboriginal cultural significance.

Check this link before visiting any new sectors in the area: https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/303740859.pdf . In summary, don't climb within a 4km radius of the Cania Gorge Tourist Retreat. This includes 3 Moons Camp.

See warning details and discuss

Created 8 months ago - Edited 7 months ago
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Access issues inherited from Cania Gorge

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Approach

As for approach to Four Seasons Point, then continue climbers right along cliff passing Lazy Ledges. This approach is best to avoid making tracks that are prone to erosion.

Ethic inherited from Cania Gorge

Trad climbers have been active at Cania since the 70's. All are encouraged to post their routes here. It's likely that some routes currently being claimed have been climbed before. Please keep this in mind when bolting. There are plenty of unprotected walls ripe for bolting but please leave naturally protected lines to those able to climb them in trad style. That way everybody gets to live their dream and we hopefully avoid conflict with the old guard. - JL

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Routes

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On the left side of the crag, by the tree, next to the vines. Up to good horisontal crack and continue straight up.

FA: Oskar Kindbom & Gloeta Massie, 20 Apr 2014

Start from the boulder and step onto the well featured rock. Continue straight up on good holds to ledge. Rap off one of the trees or scramble down the left side.

FA: Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom, Ray Thomas & Chris A Smith, 8 Jun 2014

Follow the lip of the roof and crank up to the anchor.

Set: 8 Jun 2014

FA: Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 9 Aug 2014

Climb the corner right of CWG following the left trending slippery runout ramp until you reach the roof crack gain good pro and blast through the crazy exposed out of space roof then rocket to the top. Rap from tree at top or walk off.

FFA: Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, Aug 2014

Follow the corner crack to the roof and then traverse right. At the end of the traverse, step out over the void and continue up to the belay ledge. Scramble to the big gumtree to rap down or continue up to the Three Cracks.

FA: Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, 7 Jun 2014

Go up the slab to reach the flake which is surprisingly run-out.

FA: Steve Kloske & Chris A Smith, 8 Jun 2014

Follow the crack on the right of the cliff. Scramble to the big tree (stay on belay) to rap down, or continue up to the next ledge for more great climbing. Access route to the three cracks ledge.

FA: Oskar Kindbom & Gloeta Massie, 20 Apr 2014

Start under the FH 4m r of PPF. Climb up on minimum small gear to the bolt and then enter the crux. Continue up on natural gear to top and belay at tree. Rap on fixed sling or continue climbing up to the top of lost cow on other stellar routes!

FFA: Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, Aug 2014

The next few routes start on the ledge above. Climb Pretty Purple Flowers to access the ledge above. From the top of the Three Cracks it is possible to scramble back to the ledge (head left to the top of the chimney gully, scramble down this narrow slot until you reach Cow Dung Flung). To get down from the three cracks ledge, scramble down to the big gum tree and rap down 25m.

The left crack

FA: Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, 7 Jun 2014

The middle crack

FA: Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 7 Jun 2014

The right-most of the Three Cracks, starting at the ledge above Pretty Purple Flowers.

FA: Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, 7 Jun 2014

Climb the arête to the right of hey cow on good gear then head straight up the arête to top out.

FFA: Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, Aug 2014

The next routes start at ground level

Follow the deep crack on the far right, behind the bush.

FA: Oskar Kindbom & Gloeta Massie, 19 Apr 2014

Up on the gray featured rock. There is nothing to rap down from so the only option is to continue another pitch

FA: Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom, Ray Thomas & Chris A Smith, 8 Jun 2014

From the top of Foot and Mouth go up to the offwidth and suffer for a few meters before stepping out on the face and continuing to the top. Could do with a rap station, the bush does not meet the safety standards... Another alternative is to walk over to the left and scramble down from Sexy Kids.

FA: Oskar Kindbom, Steve Kloske & Cris A Smith, 8 Jun 2014

The imposing looking chimney to the left of Flamingos on Speed.

FA: Josiah Hess, Brendan Coulter & Samual Gough, Jun 2021

Climb as 2 pitches P1 climb immaculate ramp and right hand corner crack up to massive detached shelf belay under roof. 16, 25m

P2 climb around roof and push on up through ever widening slot to make desperate finish 19, 15m

FFA: Steve Kloske, Brendan Kranker & Oskar kindbom, Aug 2014

The L hand crack directly above WMHGW the FFA commented to his second on top out that it felt like a Hard 16 and the second replied or soft 23

FFA: Steve Kloske, Brendon Kranker & Oskar Kindbom, Aug 2014

the right hand crack on the SS Ledge

FFA: Brendon Kranker, Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, Aug 2014

Far right side of lost cow. Short sustained hand crack to gain soul stealer ledge.

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Steve Kloske & Brendan Kranker, Aug 2014

Impressive orange wall at the right hand end of Lost Cow with some rad cracks.

Scramble up the ramp, and step right to gain the splitter finger crack. A few more fun moves after this to top out. There's an anchor atop Goldy L which can be used to descend. Still awaiting an FFA

FA: Brendan Coulter & Sam, 27 Jun

The hard right trending crack to the left of the crack house. Climb the inital offwidth flake to the L with either number 6's or tiny crappy rp's then dont stop!

FFA: Brendon Kranker, Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, Aug 2014

The middle twin crack system

FFA: Aug 2014

The wide crack to the right of the crack house. take a few number 3's and 4's tape up I didnt!

FFA: Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, Aug 2014

Starts off the ledge on the right hand side. Up corner and twin cracks, using either just the left crack or both.

FA: Samuel Gough & Brendan Coulter, Jun 2021

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