Routes in Brisbane for selected grade

Start at the "IW' mark.

Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. There's a ground anchor just R of the base for lead rope soloing.

Be aware of the possibility of a nasty ledgefall between 4th and 5th bolts.

This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow)

Start at the "PB" mark.

Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected. 5 RBs and lower-offs.

First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there.

Start at the "MOBS" mark, 2m R of 'FOBS'.

Bouldery start and a little bit run out. Potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid if leading. Make sure to tend L after 4th bolt. 4 FHs plus an optional BR to protect the awkward reach back to clip the DBB.

Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'.

Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station.

Start at the "K" mark.

Nice moves through a thin crux sequence. First bolt is very high (hence the "R" rating). 5 FHs & DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Start 2m R of 'Vegemite' below the nice looking overhang.

Excellent sustained climbing with a great crux sequence through the overhang. 5 RBs then 2 FHs and DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Start 3m R of 'Dysentery'.

Effectively bolts the way 'Bridal Party' was top roped for a few decades. Up easy slab to ledge and RB. Nice moves up steep face past 2nd RB to jug and 3rd RB. Mantle onto ledge and continue more easily past 2 RBs to DBB.

Start at the "FOBS" mark.

Hard overhung start then more easily up past 6 RBs to DBB.

Start 2m L of 'Bombadil'.

First top roped as 'Kasper' in the '70s at grade 16, the passing decades and a passing Bosch have seen it evolve into a grade 21 sport route. 6 RBs, chains.

A DBB at the 4th bolt allows it to be climbed in 2 (admittedly very short) pitches, great for practicing multipitch skills in a safe environment.

Sit-Start to the left of the cave entrance and follow the obvious holds along the lip. Finish as for Too Soft. Beta- https://youtu.be/AhPA2D2BDb4

Start 1m R of 'Lost in Space'. Marked "PMT".

Very high 1st bolt. 5 RBs and DBB. The section up to the first bolt can be protected with a tricam in the pocket, and a small cam in the slot as you pull over the bulge.

Start straight up wall L of usual 'Idiot Wind'. Consider using some trad gear. Rejoins the original at its 2nd bolt.

Start at short crack 3m L of 'Wounded Knee'.

Bouldery moves up crack (somewhat) protected by RB 1m to L. Straight up slabby corner past RB then very long runout up R-tending steps to ledge below corner. Fun moves up corner past 2 RBs to DBB shared with 'After the Gold Rush'. Just barely qualifies as sport - could do with a rebolt.

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start 3m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "E".

Up past 4 BRs then left to the 'Punks in the Gin' anchor. Quite run out, and the carrots always feel one move further away than you wished they were.

Start 2m L of 'FOBS'.

6 RBs. Shares final RB & DBB with 'FOBS'.

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

Climb as per 'Juice' to 2nd RB then continue straight up to climb face between 'Robbie's Robust Runners' chimney on L and 'Juice' corner on R, passing 2 RB's. Finish at DBB shared with 'Juice'. Very run out between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Edit: This run out can be protected with a number 5 nut in the top of the crack to the left of the first ledge after the second clip.

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start 2m L of 'Pink Berets'.

Up L-trending line of 5 RBs to anchors. Not great rock and pretty dirty.

Sit start, up trending right on the slab with a high pocket then top out.

Fun juicy dyno from hold in the middle up to jug.

Start just R of 'Mission Impossible'. Marked "AGAP".

Up the broken rock to ledge and very high RB. Head L through nice crux sequence up R side of 'Mission Impossible' arete to 2nd RB (don't fall, odds are you'll hit the ledge). Mantle up to slab then edge up past RB shared with '42 Wheels' to top. Seldom repeated on lead.

"Did the first ascent of this when bolting was a very sensitive issue. I had been heavily criticised for bolting 'Hanger Wall Arete' (instead of putting a wire in the crux pocket/crack to protect that move!), particularly by Evan Beiske if memory serves... anyway, AGAP was my response. Please note it was pretty bold as it didn't have a bolt protecting the crux, just a small, thin piton facing downwards! LOL... Evan whimpered on repeat and lowered onto the piton in horror when he couldn't do the move... :-0" (Mick Woodrow)

Start of great undercling at the back, hard move up and the easy traverse left and top out.

Stand start on good edge, head straight up on decent holds.

SS. Pull up, slap to large sidepull then throw for bulbous sloper and mantle. For 4 Vermin points instead, crank directly straight up to the bulb.

Rebolted in November 2019 with two fresh RBs. Start just R of 'Gynaecology'. Marked "PMB".

Straight up clipping the 2 RBs shared with 'Gynaecology', staying right of the bolt line. Mantle onto the halfway ledge then up the crack (medium friends) and arete to top.

Sit-start at the bottom of the crack using obvious block. Head up left, following the crack and making use of good features on the face.

Start 5m R of 'Pommy Bastard'. Marked "R".

Boulder start ('The Exterminator') to very high BR. Past further 3 BRs and finish at 'Dare to Dream' anchors.

Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG".

Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.

Sit start with large L sidepull up to huge cave hold, then straight up to R of fig on good holds

Stand-start using flake, then straight up with some nice footless sections.

Start on good flake at the start of the crack in the wall, straight up past crack line to horn finishing on jug just above.

Start 2m R of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TSSO".

Up to 1st RB on 'Idiot Wind', mantle the ledge & clip the 2nd RB on IW, with a longish runner, from the ledge, trend slightly right, up the broken face to the next RB, then follow the broken ledge up right, below the headwall, to a small stance & the next RB, delicate moves to the FH & rap rings. ( Route re-bolted + anchors installed April 2024.)

Starts same as Gravel Pit, except head right and finish as for TIE Fighter.

Sit start on good edges, straight to the top and mantle. Stand start goes at V0.

First move is R hand up and right. Feet low under the bulge.

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'. Marked "AFD".

Straight up past 3 FHs then head R past BR to roof. Clip FH just above roof and crank through crux (climbing R around roof is a much easier climb). Once above roof, either run it out straight up easy corner to DBB on ledge or move L around arete to join 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', finishing up past 2 BRs to top.

Prior to 2004 this climb traversed in from 'Kiwi'.

Start 2m R of 'Zac'. Faintly marked "32A".

Up past 3 RBs to ledge. Up slab then corner with minimal protection and top out to R. Yet another decent climb mostly overlooked because pro is dodgy.

Start on pinned face about 10m L of 'Piles' and 1m R of 'Arete'.

A much nicer climb than it looks at first glance. Dyno start to hold and first FH. Up obvious line past 2 more FHs. Break R onto ledge and anchor.

Named after the 1975 hit single from rock band The Tubes.

Stand start with good side pull and small edge, head straight up. Sit start goes at V6.

Start 1m to the left of Robin on good right hand hold and left heel, go straight up and slightly right.

Jug start with good feet, traverse left through one long move and then up slab.

Start on slope under-cling on the inside of the cave then work your way along the easy traverse, when you reach the end of the traverse reverse and traverse along the top of the boulder. Top out in the middle of the boulder.

Start in the middle on some pockety side pulls, traverse slightly left on jugs and straight up to mantle. Sit start on a few nice crimps for a few more moves at the same grade.

Start on the good left hold and traverse right and then up.

Start just R of 'Gigolo' / 'Nic Pic Dics'.

Follow line of 3 BRs up R side of thin slab to anchor shared with 'Nic Pic Dics'.

Start at crack 2m R of 'Arrow'.

Good climbing but very bold on lead. Up crack then push past overhang to ledge. Finish up unprotected wall.

Sit start up R arête.

Stand start at big hold on Titanic prow, out to tip of prow and top out to L. Awesomely exposed.

Start as for original 'Radioactive Cheerio'.

Climb up to 2nd BR as per the original route, then, instead of traversing R at 2nd bolt, climb straight up the headwall past a FH. Continue up cracked pillar with natural pro to top. Big reach and balance move.

Start 2m R of 'Lesbian Printshop Workers'. Faintly marked "Z".

Straight up manky 1st half to ledge, clipping BRs on '32A' and/or 'LPW'. Continue up nice cracked slab and corner with desperate natural pro to top.

Start on pockets, move straight up, rail-slopey slap up to the right, gaston/mantle on jug, feet up, top out

Sit start as per Ear using undercling's in mouth to traverse across face and topping out on Lobe (keep feet out of Mouth and Bum Hole)

Start: Right of the big Foreclosure block, behind a small tree. Up the varied rock, passing 5 RBs to chains. Keep left of the drill hole at the start & climb straight up to the 2nd RB, up the sharp arete on good moves to 5th RB & chains on ledge.

Standing start up slab and using cobble.

"Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985."

Up SIUM, to small ledge at 8m, then up to a stance below the overhanging crack & bomber gear, through this to slab above, left of MI, & RB on face out left, up TSSO (crux) for the last 3m, passing a FH & rap rings. RB + anchor installed April 2024.

Start as for 'Idiot Wind' & up to 4th bolt at the big flake.

At the 4th bolt on 'Idiot Wind' (the big flake), don't clip this, but instead, step slightly left, and up the headwall L of the 'Idiot Wind' flake past 2 RBs: The 4th bolt is a desperate clip in the Mark Moorhead tradition, involving a thin crimp or a long reach to get to the bolt, thin moves to next bolt, then traverse right 1.5m, to IW anchors.

Start at base of 10m pillar, about 5m R of bottom of the stone stairs.

Fun pumpy moves up L face of pillar past 2 BRs. Finish on top of pillar at DBB.

Sit start at Lobe starting with right hand on Obvious good Jug, move up and into Mouth using undercling's to traverse across Face topping out on Ear. ( Keep feet out of Mouth and Bum Hole)

Sit start as for the V3 on good slopes, head up and left to slopey crimp then top out.

A different start to 'Pterodactyl', starting 1m R.

Only minimally different to the standard 'Pterodactyl' and traverses L to join the usual route at halfway.

"I only got interested in leading the FFA of this route because it makes me the only person I know who can claim to have freed a Hot Henry Barber top-rope problem!" (Mick Woodrow)

Start on small flake and throw to large L rail and then high R hold, large L sidepull for top out.

Stand start with bad feet, straight up to slopey rail, anything goes from here.

Sit start and up the offwidth crack

Start on the slopers at the back, or on the big jug, a couple moves through the roof on suspiciously artificial holds, then mantle up to the right.

Start as for 'Nightfell'.

A more direct version of 'Nightfell' which goes straight through the overhang rather than skirting around it. 2 FHs, though they provide next to no protection at the crux where the potential for a nasty ledge fall is high. Top rope advised.

Start at arête on R, closest to the bridge. Straight up to mantle.

Start halfway between 'Left' and 'Right'. Straight up to mantle.

Sit start up through slopey rail to sidepull and mantle.

On the outside face of the cave, next to a orange water streak, begin stand-started with two smallish crimps. Weight your foot and statically pull on (jumping to the jug from the crimps without statically pulling on is a v1). The topout is abit poopy with a large plant living there.

Start as for 'Exhilarant'.

Clip the BR in the middle of the steep face on the L part way up 'Exhilarant'. Bridge L to ledges then straight up past 2 further BRs to top out.

Start 2m R of 'The Rasp'. Marked "DD".

More or less rebolted as 'Dare to Dream'. Straight up past 2 RBs, then sling the drill hole at 2/3 height. Original route might have continued L to join the final two BRs on 'The Rasp'.

Start just R of tree. Straight up to mantle.

"Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985."

Up SIUM to about the 8m mark (small ledge), move left across small ledges to RB, follow the broken rock up, trending right at the "variant start" painted on the rock, to a small stance & clip the next RB, then straight up TSSO VF (crux) passing a 3rd RB. At the ledges below the top, move 1m left or right, to anchors on IW or TSSO. Carrots replaced + anchors installed April 2024,

Sit start R of 'Nazi Punks, Scram' with hands on good holds and both feet on big holds out to the L. Reach for large R hand sloper. Good hold for L hand and straight up.

Simplified "lady" version of Creepy Crawler: Right hand starts in the cave and left in the crack on the face, followed by a left heelhook to push up and follow the crack all the way to the top.

Squat start on jugs either side. Use the cool arete and then up to a break. The crux is the mantle, slapping the right hand side of the bloc; compression. The slab/wall on the right is all out.

Start as for Climb 9 but continue traverse around to the right to top out as per Climb 10 on the right arête. The lower right boulder is out.

Standing start straight up on nice holds and slopers for mantle.

Up the left arete of Gymset using only the rail for hands. Quite challenging for feet with an interesting top out!

More joy.

Start: Slightly right of Light Box #11. Up broken face, past a RB, then traverse slightly right and up to small ledge. Clip high RB and fire straight up the improbable looking wall past another RB. Traverse left and up the recess to below overhanging block. Clip final RB and jug up to chain above left. Note, this route tends to seep for some days after rain.

Start at painted 8 and go straight up or to make it harder, traverse to the L and up (V1). Alternately, move to the far left holds

Standing start R of 'Consumer Culture'. Straight up using flake.

The Sit start to Reach, Flex, Repeat. Start sitted with RH on arete pinch/sidepull and LH on incut pinch and obvious feet. Two big moves into the flake. This sit start breaks the sandbag of Reach, Flex, Repeat. Finish matched on large obvious crimp. Should top out but it’s way too dirty above.

A short, punchy problem. Sit start using low crimp and high sidepull. Engage, pull in and pounce to the lip. You may need to dig your footers out from under the leaves!

Start 2m R of '32A'. Faintly marked "WNN".

Up steep wall past 2 very well spaced BRs to under overhang. Traverse L around overhang to ledge. Up slab in top half past 2 BRs to top.

Sit start on the jug of You're Too Old To Be A Jedi. Traverse left onto slopers then up one level to the shelf above. Continuing traversing left until you join Horned Banthas half way up. Finish on final hold of Horned Banthas.

Start as for “The Roof Is On Fire” but cross up and left to the top of “White Streak Right” to finish as this.

Sit start with your right hand in the maw of the mouth, then up and slightly left.

Standing start and straight up using slab and cobble

Sit start on slopers with good feet in the wrong place.

Traverse low across 1 to 4 and up

Start where chockstone previously sat and traverse R, finishing up 'Squashed Rat'.

Start on sidepull to slopers, to good hold and out to left

Variant finish to 'Pink Berets'. Break left at 3rd bolt, finish at same anchors. Could possibly have another bolt and its own anchors.

Straight up to good hold from diagonal rail, mantle out without using R foot on neighbouring boulder

Rebolted. 5 ring bolts lead the way.

Start: In front of Light box #14; At the blank face, about 5m left of the inside corner route (Gumby's Demise). Climb the broken face to a low first RB at 3m, up to ledge, passing another RB at 5m, difficult mantle, then up face, past another 3 RBs to chains out left under branches (shared with Oh Mighty Gumby). Note: There's a big 10-12m run-out over easier ground from the 2nd to 3rd RB, if you want, there are trad placements (crack) between these two bolts.

As for Brave Heart, but get scared at top and scurry left between boulders for an easy escape.

Sit start under roof, with tricky side pull to mantle.

Stand start in between Left of Ferns and the crack using the only holds that work. Stay off the rock left of the crack. Surprisingly good and independent climbing.

Grab the lip, find the good sloper and mantle.

Start on the right side pull, then slap and move straight up.