Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Start at the "IW' mark.

Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. There's a ground anchor just R of the base for lead rope soloing.

Be aware of the possibility of a nasty ledgefall between 4th and 5th bolts.

This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow)

Similar start as to RoP, not as many holds as it looks. Small runout to anchor. Five UBs to DUBB. Excellent climbing.

Start at the "PB" mark.

Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected. 5 RBs and lower-offs.

First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there.

Start at the "MOBS" mark, 2m R of 'FOBS'.

Bouldery start and a little bit run out. Potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid if leading. Make sure to tend L after 4th bolt. 4 FHs plus an optional BR to protect the awkward reach back to clip the DBB.

Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'.

Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station.

Slab to headwall to exposed step-around to techy corner. A bit of everything! If you're up for the adventure it's not to be missed. Top bolt very loose on anchors. Hand tighten and put your draws next to the bottom bolt until someone can come with a spanner (loctite or lock washer please).

... of a Jug. So big in fact that it'll be full of water after rain! Enjoy the shower.

Start at the "K" mark.

Nice moves through a thin crux sequence. First bolt is very high (hence the "R" rating). 5 FHs & DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Start 2m R of 'Vegemite' below the nice looking overhang.

Excellent sustained climbing with a great crux sequence through the overhang. 5 RBs then 2 FHs and DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Start 3m R of 'Dysentery'.

Effectively bolts the way 'Bridal Party' was top roped for a few decades. Up easy slab to ledge and RB. Nice moves up steep face past 2nd RB to jug and 3rd RB. Mantle onto ledge and continue more easily past 2 RBs to DBB.

Start at the "FOBS" mark.

Hard overhung start then more easily up past 6 RBs to DBB.

If there is one route that simply must be done at Frog... this is it! Possibly the most magnificent outing at the grade ever! Jam with joy up the initial crack section to a stance at half height. From here, a hard move on finger locks in an overhanging section brings the world's most welcome jugs. Motor up the classy finish with moves that would make anyone look stylish! Rap chains can be found on the ledge.

This daunting line is simply magnificent. Up the twin cracks on locks and jams that would leave a poet short for words. From here, continue up to where the cracks merge to form a single, steep, fingers to fists crack. A hard move to the ledge provides a classic sting in the tail.

Brilliant. A desperate little move out of the cave sees you to a stance. Blast up this to a difficult thin section at half height. Grunt up the top to the ledge. Constantly interesting with bombproof gear all combine to make this route deservedly popular!

An absolute classic test piece locking and jamming problem. A hard start gains a stance at 2m. From here, climb the unrelenting corner with excellent gear, stances and locks. Keep plugging and moving like a punch-drunk boxer, as the lactic acid build-up ever so surely creeps up on you. There are just enough stances and holds to keep you from being reduced to a whimpering mess. A DBB can be found above the ledge as you top out.

Prominent black arete climb straight up the arete from the ground for a good time.

There's not many roofs you can get a hands-free rest on. This popular testpiece is located 5m L of WOF and 1m R of arête below overhanging, triangular prow below roof. Up and out the prow (awesome jughandle threads) then move into roof flake while copping that rest with a styleboss leg-hook maneuver over the top of the prow. Clip RB on lip and then power up the wall above (RB) to ledge. Wade carefully through the lichen up and R to the recently installed rap station.

Absolute class! This fine sweeping corner is one of the best routes on the cliff. The climb offers magnificent bridging and laybacking, with strenuous thin hand jams and locks just to make your day! Superb protection the whole way settles the nerves... a little!

Hard start. Up steep wall past five U-bolts, keeping R of bulge at the top, to double U-bolt belay. Holds have broken off the start, increasing the grade from 18.

The only non-steep warmup here. Stickclip. Stemming moves up past 3-4 bolts until it slabs out, then head well left to double rings.

Black streak to the L of FOTOS, six RBs to lower-off. Crimpy for three bolts, before moving left into corner with pumpy climbing ensuing.

Classic face climbing. The thin seam takes you to a good stance at half height. Up the strenuous corner and airily onto the face. Continue shakily on (mostly) good holds. Poor gear to start and a few further moments of fiddly gear and friable rock. Easily to the top. Rap chain on the ledge.

Start 2m L of 'Bombadil'.

First top roped as 'Kasper' in the '70s at grade 16, the passing decades and a passing Bosch have seen it evolve into a grade 21 sport route. 6 RBs, chains.

A DBB at the 4th bolt allows it to be climbed in 2 (admittedly very short) pitches, great for practicing multipitch skills in a safe environment.

Very thin start (direct), quite sustained to the third bolt. First bolt can be gained from the R if you don't have what it takes to do it direct. Five UBs to DUBB.

Brilliant! Start up the off-width to a ledge at 4m (alternatively, you can start up HG for 4m and then step L onto the same ledge). From there up the awesome finger crack with excellent face holds and locks to a thin crux at half height. From there, up the hand and fist crack to a ledge. Go up the broken corner at the back and right to double rings. Bring second rope to get down.

Long and pumpy climbing with great views.

Start: Up the first 3 bolts of 'The Final Piece' then walk up the slab to a anchor bolt with a single ring, straight up from here to access Overseer.

Sit-Start to the left of the cave entrance and follow the obvious holds along the lip. Finish as for Too Soft. Beta- https://youtu.be/AhPA2D2BDb4

Start: 3m right of 'Tripitaka'

Stickclip recommended. Four FH's to anchor shared with Tripitaka. Optional small wires between second and third bolts.

The central line on the clean face left of the cave with the basketball sized huecos. Fun and engaging climbing. Don’t forget to fondle the nostrils mid route.

Absolutely classic, although your calves will hate you for your efforts! So named because Barber somehow managed to miss this fine line on his "tick every classic in sight" tour of '75. Enjoy the crack work and bridging moves up the long corner with superb gear throughout. Top out to Conquistador ledge rap chains, you will need two ropes or a single 70m to get back down.

Starts 3m right of Yesterdays Hero in the small enclave. Thin start up the slab to engaging ground above. Anchor on right of crack.

Clip first bolt and head straight up, or slightly R of bolts. Sustained climbing, very set sequences.

A very popular route, and deservedly so. Up the classic line on superb finger locks and jams to an easy but grotty chimney finish. To rap, either use chains on SA (left) or YGH (right). Easiest way is the tree directly above the route that will get you back to Warlock ledge with a 70m rope.

An amazing route that is a must do. Up the tricky start to a ledge. Step L into the bottomless chimney, doing some funky moves up the corner. A desperate bulge at the top of this groove provides loads of excitement, as well as the crux. Flop with much joy onto the ledge. Belay is possible here. A tricky move off the ledge gains a small crack which eases off very quickly. Up the obvious line above to a ledge and rap rings.

Start 1m R of 'Lost in Space'. Marked "PMT".

Very high 1st bolt. 5 RBs and DBB. The section up to the first bolt can be protected with a tricam in the pocket, and a small cam in the slot as you pull over the bulge.

Straight up the centre of the chimney working your way in and out of a series of scoops. 9 hangers to anchors. Chossy start but gets better. Belayer wear a helmet!

Start as for 'Grey Nurse'.

Head straight up face after clipping 1st UB shared with 'Grey Nurse'. Nice moves up corner in 2nd half to below roof then an exhilarating push through roof to finish at DBB on prow. 5 UBs total. Great climbing and almost as fun to watch!

A new warm-up option. Up TDLW for four UBs. Instead of traversing right as for TDLW, go straight up past another three UBs into the cave. Finish atop the diving board (double U-bolts). Lower-off.

Start straight up wall L of usual 'Idiot Wind'. Consider using some trad gear. Rejoins the original at its 2nd bolt.

Start at short crack 3m L of 'Wounded Knee'.

Bouldery moves up crack (somewhat) protected by RB 1m to L. Straight up slabby corner past RB then very long runout up R-tending steps to ledge below corner. Fun moves up corner past 2 RBs to DBB shared with 'After the Gold Rush'. Just barely qualifies as sport - could do with a rebolt.

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start 3m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "E".

Up past 4 BRs then left to the 'Punks in the Gin' anchor. Quite run out, and the carrots always feel one move further away than you wished they were.

Start 2m L of 'FOBS'.

6 RBs. Shares final RB & DBB with 'FOBS'.

10/15m left of Sideshow Bob. One hard move. Shares anchors with Fairy Floss.

Page's first bolted route. Start as for previous in the corner. Up the black R-leaning corner then push through bulge on headwall to a large set of chains. The upper wall has some superb rock and should be experienced.

If TOS didn't warm you up, keep going through the bulge past 4 more bolts to high anchor.

One of the most impressive lines on the cliff. Bridge up the line until the pillar stops. Step into the crack and blast up the ever widening crack. Chock stones and large gear can protect the top body chimney adequately.

Marked by the initials "AA" for Artificial Aura, which was the climb's actual name (so named because it looked so ridiculously hard, but actually went quite easily). The route, however, had been named Cock Crack, and through the ages, no doubt due to Alzheimer's, alcohol and drug abuse, the names were swapped and Cock Crack was re-born! Climb the widening hand crack to a stance. Up the wide section by chimney moves or very classy and thin bridging to where the crack closes again. Motor up the brilliant crack and arete on super holds to finish. Big gear essential. Finish at the chains for Infinity.

Brilliant face climbing up the thin face on the far L of the ledge. Despite appearances, protection is excellent throughout the whole climb (provided you have RPs), and it is a must do at the grade.

Good face climbing up the broken orange wall. Protection is spaced. Climb off left to anchors of Pixel Princess.

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

Climb as per 'Juice' to 2nd RB then continue straight up to climb face between 'Robbie's Robust Runners' chimney on L and 'Juice' corner on R, passing 2 RB's. Finish at DBB shared with 'Juice'. Very run out between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Edit: This run out can be protected with a number 5 nut in the top of the crack to the left of the first ledge after the second clip.

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start 2m L of 'Pink Berets'.

Up L-trending line of 5 RBs to anchors. Not great rock and pretty dirty.

This pump fest provides some of the best and most sustained crack climbing on the cliff. Blast up the unrelenting crack in the steep corner. The crux is unfortunately above a ledge at 2/3rd height with a good chance of hitting it, then easily to the top.

Tobin Sorenson did this in his sandshoes as his first route at the cliff.

Start: Shares first bolt with Elite Rebuplican Guard. Caution: Clipping the first bolt can be difficult if you have a short reach.

A quality moderate sport route featuring mostly big holds but also harbouring a technical crux. Head slightly R and roughly follow the line between orange and grey rock clip five more bolt's to anchor. Steeper than it looks.

Five UBs, joining Spike at last bolt. Hard start.

Sit start, up trending right on the slab with a high pocket then top out.

Previously the softest 22 in Queensland. Apologies to everyone who ticked this as their first at that grade. Still, it does offer some of the best rock at Brooyar. 6m R of TDC. Recently rebolted with three FHs to lower-off. Has a great mono pocket to play with.

Fun juicy dyno from hold in the middle up to jug.

Popular. Three FH’s protect the juggy flake traverse to lower-off. Stickclip the first. Best to clean this on second.

This long-neglected corner offers brilliant bridging and jamming up a long sustained line! Bridge up the initial corners to the cave at 2/3rd height. A hard move around this to the top, and many celebration beers at the "Doogs". Rap chains on the pillar.

Starts up the right side of the cave then left through the roof on wild "Ninderry-solid" features. Finishes up the middle of the headwall. Awesome steep climbing at a moderate grade.

Start just R of 'Mission Impossible'. Marked "AGAP".

Up the broken rock to ledge and very high RB. Head L through nice crux sequence up R side of 'Mission Impossible' arete to 2nd RB (don't fall, odds are you'll hit the ledge). Mantle up to slab then edge up past RB shared with '42 Wheels' to top. Seldom repeated on lead.

"Did the first ascent of this when bolting was a very sensitive issue. I had been heavily criticised for bolting 'Hanger Wall Arete' (instead of putting a wire in the crux pocket/crack to protect that move!), particularly by Evan Beiske if memory serves... anyway, AGAP was my response. Please note it was pretty bold as it didn't have a bolt protecting the crux, just a small, thin piton facing downwards! LOL... Evan whimpered on repeat and lowered onto the piton in horror when he couldn't do the move... :-0" (Mick Woodrow)

Hard start, then nice easy balancy climbing

The 2nd Last route at the cliff, 2m left of the small alcove. 8 Ubolts to chain anchor, consistent and not obvious climbing.

Start of great undercling at the back, hard move up and the easy traverse left and top out.

Stand start on good edge, head straight up on decent holds.

SS. Pull up, slap to large sidepull then throw for bulbous sloper and mantle. For 4 Vermin points instead, crank directly straight up to the bulb.

Rebolted in November 2019 with two fresh RBs. Start just R of 'Gynaecology'. Marked "PMB".

Straight up clipping the 2 RBs shared with 'Gynaecology', staying right of the bolt line. Mantle onto the halfway ledge then up the crack (medium friends) and arete to top.

Starts 2m to the right of "Entergalactic Ceiling". Give your eyes time to adjust. Interesting climbing into the back of the cave.

If you wish to log this climb, please do as at Odin II. This climb was regraded to a 21 after the "magic block" was dislodged in June 2017. Odin remains as a historical relic, to record the ascents of those who did it during the "magic block" era.

This classic climb used to be the test piece for all budding rock gods in the 1970's. Up the initial orange crack system to a stance below the "magic block". A tricky move above this into a narrow groove. The hand and fist crack above keeps you puffing the whole way! Hard for the grade.

Take care with all the hanging blocks in the vicinity of the roof.

3m L of Remains Of The Day.

1. 30m (18) Trends ever so slightly left. Awkward and a wee bit exciting with long runouts. Scamper quickly up easy ground to single ring and double ring anchor.

2. 30m (17) Trends quite a way towards the left, avoid the ancient relic carrot and hanger at about half way. Mind the choss before the belay.

3. 20m (20) Up through some bad rock to small roof, left and up with balance and strong manoeuvres to once again encounter easier ground above the bulge.

4. Pitch 4 options: 4a) 35m (17) Wander right off the belay, up the steep gully and skirt under overhang then continue up using a couple of chimney moves or brave the face out to the right. Up slab to step left onto stoney ledge, up through the shrubbery to belay on right hand end of bushy ledge. This pitch is very wandery and should not be rappelled. 4b) 28m (24) From belay, head straight up and over slab passing a single ring and chain belay. Continue left up the tricky overhanging corner and pull the lip with a few punchy moves. over the lip head right through shrubbery to a DBB on a bushy ledge.

5. 25m (16) Up from belay avoiding the 'less than inspiring rock'. Move across left to gain easier ground around a gentle corner.

6. 25m (14) Up and gingerly step left across gap continuing up and then right avoiding the hanging blocks, very easy ground to the top of the ridge, look for the Airtime rap and belay hangers over on the left, they are on vertical rock under an overhang. Don't climb any higher as rap becomes problematic from here. You would also need trad gear to continue to the top on the top pitch of Airtime.

Ten sport draws are sufficient however two additional long or extending draws would help to smooth out rope drag in places. Take a 70m rope if intending to link pitches.

Rap using one of the options:

A) Rap back down route.

From Airtime anchors rap by walking backwards along tip toe ridge trending slightly to the right (looking back up the ridge) to the bushy ledge anchors at the top of the 4th pitch. Rap from the top of the 4th pitch by walking back left i.e. down the alternate (24) pitch not down the (17) pitch, you can rap to the 3rd pitch DBB by doing it this way. From the top of the 3rd pitch rap to the top of the second pitch, you'll have to rap past the rap anchors due to the overhanging nature of the terrain, climb about 2 metres back up to the DBB. From here you can either rap to the ground via an intermediate rap chain half way directly down or continue rappelling down via the 1st pitch by rapping to the end of your rope and carefully walking 10m to the right to the DBB anchor of the 1st pitch. Due to the rappels being not straight down be mindful to not let go of your rope when anchoring in at DBB's. You should only need one 60 metre rope for climbing and rappelling if you follow instructions.

B) Down Airtime Over Pumicestone.

2x 60m ropes required. Straight down the bushy gully for about 40m. Then small belay ledge on left. Straight abseil to hanging belay under a tiny overhang on right. Then rap to ground.

Start as for 'Serenade For Rings'.

Don't clip the retro BR at the top of the 'SFR' slab. Instead head R and up past 3 RBs. Finish at the anchors shared with 'SFR'.

Sit-start at the bottom of the crack using obvious block. Head up left, following the crack and making use of good features on the face.

Start 5m R of 'Pommy Bastard'. Marked "R".

Boulder start ('The Exterminator') to very high BR. Past further 3 BRs and finish at 'Dare to Dream' anchors.

Start 3m R of 'Biyatch Pants' at featured arête.

Slab up the arête past RB to top (retro BR). Swing straight up onto headwall (RB). Committing, sporty climbing straight up the headwall passing two more RBs to rap station on ledge.

Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG".

Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.

A bit of a runout at the top. Starts 1m right of FC&W. Shares chains with FC&W and YT.

Sit start with large L sidepull up to huge cave hold, then straight up to R of fig on good holds

Stand-start using flake, then straight up with some nice footless sections.

Start on good flake at the start of the crack in the wall, straight up past crack line to horn finishing on jug just above.

Start 2m R of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TSSO".

Up to 1st RB on 'Idiot Wind', mantle the ledge & clip the 2nd RB on IW, with a longish runner, from the ledge, trend slightly right, up the broken face to the next RB, then follow the broken ledge up right, below the headwall, to a small stance & the next RB, delicate moves to the FH & rap rings. ( Route re-bolted + anchors installed April 2024.)

The nice handcrack leading to a ledge and offwidth to the right of Elastic Rurp. Big gear essential if you don't want to run it out above the ledge and manky old pin. The 'elegant solution' to the offwidth mentioned in Andy Martin's description probably involves some kind of prancing about on edges like a sport climber. This sort of thing can be avoided with good old fashioned thrutching and struggling.

This is the climb you do when you don't read the guidebook and go the wrong way on Cold Fusion, and end up linking up the top of ICSJRHV instead of MD (pretty sure I'm not the first to do this). Fun though.

Starts 1m right of the tree stump. Rap/belay from ring 11.

Even whispering the name of this route has struck panic and fear into the heart of many an aspiring leader. Up the ever widening off-width to the L of SA. Specially cut lengths of pipe were originally used to protect this visionary route. Big Bros and large cams (and plenty of them) should keep the Grim Reaper at bay nowadays! Jeans and a footy jersey would be a handy addition to the rack of any would be ascentionist.

1. 30m (20) Bloody awesome. Really well bolted and keeps you thinking all the way. There's an optional large wire or 0.75 cam if you're having trouble getting to the first FH. As for Big Empty for the first three bolts, then break out right and follow the line of FHs leading up and right to DBB.

2. 15m (18) Cross over Short and Sweet (reach out left and clip Walk the Line's first FH with a long sling). Head up Circlet clipping its first RB. Instead of reaching left to clip the second RB, continue directly up the wall past two FH's. Follow big holds leftwards around the arête and up (FH) until you reach an anchor in a grand position. From the anchor, it's 35m rappel to the ground or two raps if you stop at the pitch 1 anchor.

Start on next platform up right from What we do in the Shadows.

Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain.

The first route ever climbed at Frog! Good bridging with adequate pro despite appearances. Excellent technical chimney climbing at the top as it narrows to a body crack. It helps to keep all your gear on a sling on your L hip! The first ascent actually skipped the top chimney by going L onto the face.

Probably the toughest 20 at Frog if you can't climb off-widths! Disregard this if you have a foot-long beard and 20-year-old EB boots in your possession. Up the brilliant hand crack to the off-balance, off-width through two bulges. Big cams keep things sane. Really impressive climbing!

Starts same as Gravel Pit, except head right and finish as for TIE Fighter.

A hard crux through the roof, especially for the vertically challenged, followed by fun cranking over a bucket or two, to an exciting topout.

U-bolts. Up the slab and trend right until it steepens. Shares high anchor with previous route.

Up left side of cave to shared anchors.

Start at "Wimps in the Gym" move left at roof then straight away climb diagonally up and right past carrot to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

Follow crack up to gain a rest then move to balancey finish, stick clip first bolt if needed.

Quite good. Up the initial corner to a hard move onto a ledge. From here, thin locking and classic bridging bring the top to hand.

Start on top of the boulder leaning against the cliff.

Very well protected with 12 bolts, DUBB. Rap/belay from ring #12.

Start at the small corner R of Sabrasucker. Bridge up this to a desperate little move onto the ledge. From here motor up one of the best and most pure cracks there is at Frog to the next ledge. It is best to get off here by stepping L through the chimney and rapping off as for Sabrasucker. If you must continue, add 20m, take off all the stars, lose all the enjoyment of the last 20m and thrash up some pretty ordinary climbing to the top.

Start just right of the 'T' for Trojan. The access pitch to In Between Dreams and Summit Sutra. Balance start to some stemming moves.

Sit start on good edges, straight to the top and mantle. Stand start goes at V0.