Routes as trad in Queensland

Start ~5m right of ITOSE, at the first possible belay stance of the crag near a small tree. Slab moves are followed by easier terrain and a large flake just to the right. A couple of harder moves lead to a crack that looks better than it is. Up to a stance below the bulge. Once past the bulge run it out raversing left to the anchor of ITOS. Second to clean and rap. Tricky nuts comprise most of the gear on this one.

Starts 2m left of The Lady with the Handbag. This route climbs under the tree rather than over it. Climb up on some delicate holds with no pro for the first 5 meters or so (crux) before reaching some nicely featured rock with better holds. Duck under the tree (sling the tree if you dare!), then continue up much more easily following the obvious groove/crack which provides mostly adequate gear placements. A few meters before reaching the overhangs, step right to traverse several meters across to the bolted anchors of Barracuda.

Another way to get up on the ledge. Plenty of holds on either sides. Medium to big cams. Take care when passing the chockstone. Anchor-in by slinging the boulder on the left or use the cracks.

About 1m left of Mistaken Identity: thin crack or weakness in the rock. Up this, with no gear, to top, then traverse 2m right to rap anchors on MI. The original ascentist graded it at 10. I would take that with a grain of salt, especially given that there's no gear or protection on it. Bold Climbing.

Start: about 30m right of NOTLF. Up with the buttress on your right. The gear is terrible but at least there's not much of it. Nice climbing and bridging moves at the top protected by 2 FH's.

From the first ledge , stay on the left. Used 3 bolts , 1 micro nuts , 2 friends n2 After a nice slab continue on easy ground to the anchor point. The route continue another 45 mts towards a small patch of trees. At 35 mts there is a ring bolt for a quick escape From the tree we have explored 2 way to the top and both required good scrambling up and exposed way down. The route will continue for another 100 mts up left of the trees. Suggestions: bring an approach shoes or good gym one as climbing shoes are suffering there Start to be fun 🤩

The area have a lot of looses rock of any size, helmets mandatory and aware till a good first clean up is done

Start: 2m left of Short Circuit. Up the featured face, to the big block, and left side of this.

Pitch 1- as for Jony Bynch.

Pitch 2- Walk left on ledge past small-scooped 4m face that could be added into the climb, we walked unroped up to huge tree on top of the scoop.

Pitch 3- Right facing corner up fun slab that goes diagonally right. Set belay on top of slab.

Pitch 4- Head diagonally left on crack with awkward but decent gear at the start. Once you arrive at the top of the diagonal crack there is a nice vertical crack section for 5m. Set belay in solid rock at top of this crack, not heaps to choose from but it is there.

Pitch 5- Head right into funky super exposed territory up thin vertical crack (careful placements in here with extenders) traverse right past bomber horn into some solid cam placements. Saddle up for the last move out.

Free hanging rap off tree above exposed section.

Approach: This route tops out the prominent knob on the Western shoulder of Beerwah below the summit. Can be accessed via a number of different hiking routes. First ascent was done as a tasty addition to The Martian. After Olympus mons (pitch 10 of the Martian) scramble approximately 50 m up the exit gulley towards the western shoulder, until you begin to pass the base of the knob and it's south west facing wall, 15m to the right of the exit track.

Description: Climb starts at the vertical crack, just left of center of the wall (avoiding the overhung lips to the right) Crack 15m before stepping right and up onto sustained slab with left-facing corner. Done with cams .3-2, nuts 1-13. Natural belay(trees and boulder) perched on the knob with awesome western outlook.

The prow has been climbed direct after top rope rehearsal, with no gear after the ledge. Actually a pretty cool compression problem, with crux turning the lip. If climbing is re-opened here anyone who wishes to bolt it is welcome to do so.

Slither down into the underworld to hide from that one embarrassing memory your subconscious keeps reminding you of. Pleasant subterranean chimneying leads to a very tight exit and memorable crux. If you liked sticking pencils in your eyes for fun and you'd also love to stick some forks in as well then this slot is for you.

Chimney above secrets found. Awesome offwidth climbing protectable using small gear in the crack on the right. Unfortunately after pulling over the lip above the offwidth there is multiple fridge sized rocks resting on loose rubble.

Really hot, pretty easy.

Chimney to chimney along halfway ledge.

Just logging it cause the name amused my tiny brain.

Pitch 1: Up Crappy rock right of corner to fun roof. Pitch 2: Fantastic diagonal hand crack. Pitch 3: Easy corner to slab and roof.

An impressive looking chimney with a steep crux at the start.

Steep, shot hand crack. Walk down from the top.

Choose your start up the corner then step right and follow thin crack up the face. Through the rooflet and up slab to the top.

The first major corner on the wall. Scramble up ledges to start.

Starts behind the large boulder. Chimney up to steep hand crack.

The large corner to the right of the big orange face. Lots of different ways to climb so choose your own adventure.

Start up steep fingercrack corner and then more easily up face.

Mega four to five pitch multi up a king line in the middle of the Mount Edwards East face. Will be awesome with more traffic. Features one of the best pure splitter hand corner cracks around! Excellent rock quality other than some blocks that would require trundling and some thin pieces of rock. Half ropes recommended if combining pitches 2 & 3. Single rack to #4 camalot, recommended double cams + hexes if combining pitches 2 & 3.

Start approx' located at: (-28.014207, 152.545096)

1. 35m Start at the base of the mildly vegetated corner featuring a hand crack to the small tree to start. Some truly awesome moves involving crack and chimneying. Belay on large ledge with tree to sit on, belay in cracks.

2. 20m Up the corner crack with wobbly blocks on the inside of the crack. Up this for 5 - 8m then move left up ramp and push behind and past the small tree. Up the splitter corner crack to a stance with cave on the left. Cam belay in crack or combine with the third pitch for a mega line.

3. 30m A 3 star pitch on it's own. Climb past dead vegetation in crack (to be removed). Take a deep breath and punch through the relentless corner crack to a rest in a cave at 3/4 height. Continue up the crack to the roof. (There is a large somewhat secure but hollow block at this roof, be cautious of placing gear between it and the wall, would be good to get trundled at some point). Move out left onto the face and hanging belay in cracks or punch upward to the large tree.

4. 25m Push upwards from the tree and up vegetated chimneys, towards the right generally and belay on large ledge/wherever possible.

5. 30m Roped scramble to the top of the cliff

This route links up a combination of routes to form an exciting multi in it's own right.

1. 20m Climb Divergence then choose one of the following.

2. 35m Climb Tested Twistical (Left) 17 or Tested Twisticle (Right) 18

3. 18m Climb Caritas.

Exit: A 70m rope will get you back to the ground in two raps or scramble roped up from Caritas anchor to Halfway House and Rap down Clemency.

The overhanging fist crack between Big Friday and Passage.

Finish as for Passage. Plenty of gear is available in the passage section so resist the urge to clip bolts for maximum Trad Lass/Lad points.

The original start for Future Tense which grants the full 26 points if you're up for it! Take the desperate line 1m to the R of BST which is so thin and under protected that it has never (?) been repeated!

The bright orange swath of rock with twin cracks on right and large overhanging roof block above. Climb the slippery twin cracks to skirt right around roof to a stance. Move up to horizontal hand crack in side of block, place some pieces and hand traverse over void with a big deadpoint move to gain top. Rap from tree above corner.

The ZigZagging offwidth left of White Witch. Start on the ground with block on the left. After a short section of grunting to stand on the block layback to break with a move to establish in wider crack above. Wade into the body chimney above with a great stemming finale over final block. Rap off large tree. Take 2 X #4 and 1 X #5 and various smaller cams.

The left of the two direct starts.

Incredible three sided square cut chimney one pitch off the ground with exciting moves negotiating the roof exit. Climb Hang Onto Me to new DBB on side of large block. Clip into anchor and either climb the juggy overhung lip on the right or stem straight up the steep corner to establish in the base of chimney. Best to bring belay to here. Climb the three sided chimney on incredible friction rock with great gear up right side crack to exit left via friction stemming and microcam protection. Easily to top DBB. Incredibly unique climbing on immaculate rock. Stays in the shade till lunch.

Climbs up the centre of the pillar just to the right of the large cave ending in a spectacular position on top of the pillar with great views to the Dam. To reach belay pull around lip of cave and traverse carefully across mossy wall to belay at base of left leaning corner. Climbs corner direct slinging tree at half height to juggy face above finishing on top of pillar. Downclimb easy face to rap off tree to clean.

Climb up roof crack with slab on right (crux) pull some steep sporty moves to the left above a nest of RP's then solo up grey headwall to trad anchor. Second pitch traverse bush bash with a fun move at the end. Both pitches need a bolt to make sane. 1 star climbing -1 star for lack of gear.

An adventurous route through unique and interesting terrain. Gets a star for the standout position of the line but loses some for rock quality. Start from the spooky ledge & climb inside the arching crack, the Belly of the Beast.

1. 20m (13) Climb up to the base of a arching crack and chimney up into the cave past a cluster of bail tat. Belay in cave near purple sling.

2. 30m (16) Up wall/crack then keep moving up the ramp along the cave. Carefully up corner crack and belay after topping corner.

3. 30m (15) Climb into next lip, boulder out the right side of the cave onto Tibro juggy slab, proceed up and left to the orange rock cave as for Overexposed.

4. 40m (16) Up corner in cave passing 2 PRs, on ledge continue up and left diagonally following broken crack system. Finish the pitch at the grassy gully. Typical tibro slab trad, small broken microcracks. Deserves an R .

Option to continue up overexposed by going right after the corner in cave on pitch 4. Highly recommended due to the free solo headspace provided by the lack of gear during the fourth pitch

Start: Prometheus I.

There are a plethora of variants to Prometheus I, this one is an easy stroll up the mountain, to Cave 4. A tad thin on gear on p2.

1. 53m 4 - Same as Prometheus pitch 1,but continue left, following the natural weakness & gully, to a small dirt ledge & bushes. Trad belay.

2. 30m 4 - Continue left, following the line of weakness, then trend up & right, around the Steelwood trees, to a tree belay.

3. 40m 4 - From the belay, head for the right side of Cave 4, into the fern gully, then up the left side of this into Cave 4. Belay from Cave 4.

Start: 3m Left of Gambier I - possibly still initialled "GII" after 55yrs?

Up 3-4m to base of crack, delicate moves up to potholes, follow crack up 6m to easy slab & tree belay (still there, 55yrs later?).

Start: about 275m right of hiker's track. Possibly still marked with "GI" after 55 years?

Climb up to 2 small ledges, then delicate moves up to a ledge at the base of a corner. Up using potholes, then thin wall and layback flake lead to easy slab & tree belay (still there 55yrs later?)

Start in the middle of blank face R of Sexy Legs. Hardest moves off the ground, easier as you go up.

P1) 40M 20, As for Grand Hotel. Climb the slab passing 2 FH to gain the zig zagging crack, once the crack finishes keep climbing past the first DDB for another 5 FH to reach a nice ledge and DBB belay here.

P2) 20m 10, scramble up towards the headwall passing 2 FH and gear to a DBB at the base of the head wall.

P3) 30M 22, A beautiful pitch with just the right amount of exposure. From the belay follow 3 FH to reach a corner crack, up this until it runs out, then follow another 3 FH to reach a comfortable ledge and DBB.

P4) 20m, climb the slab passing 1 FH to gain a chimney like grove up this then slab to top and DDB.

The crack to the right of Slab Dad. Follow crack until it finishes, up slab passing 1 FH To DBB.

Follow seem all the way up.

tend left off hikers and head straight up middle of landscape.

Climb Witches Covert past ledge. Up hand crack until possible to step over into body crack then through to finish up Witches Cauldron.

Up Witches Cauldron then through the body crack to finish up Witches Covert.

Start: About 10m east of Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Below flared shallow chimney.

1. 20m. Up chimney.

2. 30m. Bridge up corner and up. Comments: Quite interesting. Harder than it appears from below.

Start: About 10m east of Angie. Some grooves on the face of a grey pillar.

1. Up pillar face for 20m. Step left to belay ledge.

2. Straight up crack to summit. Comments: Superb easy wall climbing. Technically very easy, but quite scary.

The most prominent and obvious crack at the crag, the short offwidth boulder at the right end of the cliff (climber's right), climbed half-in half-out. Small tree on top for belay.

Line starts 50m up the wall and is a steep scramble to get to. Follows big obvious ramp trending right to left finishing at the shadforth spring waterfall proper. This route is very straight forward and would make a great access route. A fall off the ramp though could be troublesome as this will leave hanging in space.

P1 start at the obvious belay tree (jutting out 90 from the bottom of the fault). Follow ramp for 50m to ledge on left for belay station. Grade 5.

P2 Ascend ramp for 20m using crack for protection. When it turns to choss traverse out left onto face for 10m (potentially a good place for a second belay station to address drag and rope length) then up and through the remaining face to the top.

Afternoon climb, does not go into the shade until after 2pm.

The obvious king line 1.5km south of Shadforth Sspring on the north facing wall. The line is on the face next to the right facing corner. Remains in the shade for the entire morning while the rest of the wall is sunlit. The start of the route was originally attempted in 1993 but the party bailed off a nut at 15m.

P1 Starting at the bottom of the slab climb the face using the crack for protection. Great thin climbing on toes with opportunities to climb around “cruxes”, finish at left hand ledge with trees 55m, grade 16. P2 start out trending right from ledge to avoid climbing over belayers. Ascend the ramp with more sustained slab until the route heads right, small high foot and traverse right onto stack before continuing up the route for the full 60m.

Staying to the crack is recommended. Pro is sparse on the face and should be capitalised when they appear. Initially climbed on twin 60m ropes, and paid for in blood, cut ropes and lost pair of TC pros. The climbing is fantastic and in a range to enjoyed by any climber in the future.

30m (15) - Slightly thought provoking moves off the deck but it eases up after that. Be careful of rock fall as the seconder, some choss about. Belay in corner at top of crack on solid gear.

25m (12) - Push up to the left around corner to large bushy ledge with crack in back right corner. Use tree belay or gear in good crack.

35m (14) - Money pitch! Arcing hand crack with windswept jugs whenever you need 'em! Crack widens close to the top and turns into boulders. Belay off good boulders or trees on large bushy ledge.

40m (-) - Bush bash up through scrub heading right before a small 3m scramble off the the left leads to the base of an awesome chimney with questionable rock quality.

30m (13) - A surprisingly great finish to the climb! Despite the poor rock quality at the base, this pitch has solid gear with a small crack running up the back of the chimney. Push up the chimney , enjoy the musical tones of your hexes clanging on the ironstone rungs and squeeze past the final boulder protecting the exit.

Ought to be fairly amazing.

About 20m right of Mr. Busy Pillar, just as the cliff-base starts to descend (towards the original start of the Alpine Route/NW Track, which is ~40m away), you can scramble up through several ledges and bushes at grade 1 or 2 to reach a large ledge system. Bushwalkers have placed tape and a track is starting to form.

Follow a track along the ledge system southwards, exposed in a couple of places, to join-up with the Alpine Route. At the junction, this alternate track is more prominent than the original Alpine Route / NW Track.

Follow the Alpine Route up to the Tourist Track.

This route is an easy solo down-climb too.

The right hand variant, going straight up. This is far more risky as a scramble and just generally a less than ideal way to get up to the upper section of the crag, as there's a lot of loose gravel and rock that you can and likely will kick down towards your belayer. They can either belay from anchors at top of Just Add Water, or from in the boulders underneath the overhang. At the top of the gully you'll find the belay bolt for the Mariana Trench at about chest height. Belaying from here is not ideal, a better option is to use a draw/biner to help redirect the rope and keep it up and away from the loose rock, so that you can belay from tree or gear to the left near base of Sea Monkey's Uncle.

The airy scramble that will get you to the DBB at the base of Boaty McBoatface if you've just climbed Just Add Water or are at the overhung climbs with fixed ropes. Nuts etc optional as if you climb it right the rope and trees will protect any unexpected falls. Though you might like to sling the trees for comfort, but please minimise damage to them. This is the better option than the right hand variant as there's less/zero chance of hailing rocks onto your belayer, and you wind up at the DBB for Boaty.

An extension off Rock sex direct, adding an unexpectedly sustained bit of climbing. Climb as rock sex direct then at the rest ledge there is a line of bolts leading you left onto the slightly over hung face. Mantle over and head directly up to the anchors. Suggest bringing some gear or you can run it out

The large, right facing corner on the eastern wall.

Start: Just left of Sometimes I Do. Up the crackline, to a FH & mallion, continue up, passing another FH.

Follow the same 6 bolts of MF up sharp arete. At the horizontal crack, break right by a meter to large hands crack. Top out for DBB.

Crimp hard through the slabby arete for six bolts. Follow the winding finger crack just to the right of horizontal break to a top out with DBB. Size 0.4-0.75 and 1 size 3.

King line left above the pond. Blank face with stonking crack up the middle. Start on the ledge directly beneath (requires spicy scramble), unprotectable start but juggy (overhung) once onto first ledge let the crack climbing begin. 10m of the best crack climbing in the NW. From fingers to layback to paddle hands through to mantle then continue over choss onto top out ledge. Rapped off of sketchy tree. Perhaps look for better Decent.

A proud line in a super exposed spot with picturesque views. A mega adventure on excellent rock well wroth the hour and a half walk in.

P1) 18m still needs to be freed over hanging 4-6 crack take minimum of three to four number 4 two number 5 and one number 6 beware of knife cutting crack edges, one FH at top leads to semi hanging DBB. will go between 20-25 ranges. (open project)

P2) 25m 23 The money pitch a slightly over hanging pitch following 10 FH to a semi hanging DBB. Mega!

P3) 17m 22 traverse right and low for 3 FH (hard to reach third clip unless you clip from hidden jug on the arete) to reach the areate up areate and slab to a comfortable belay hole and DBB.

P4) 20m 17 follow the 10 FH up slab to DBB.

P5)20m 4 bridges the gap and scramble to the top to a DBB.

Walk off.

Open book corner, left of hot lead. Adventurous.

Up the flat smooth corner just before the arete. No touching the big ledges on the left. Top out over the face to your right, between the vegetation.

Scramble the big ledge staircase, top out through obvious corner.

Wendy asked for a first ascent. Citizens must abide. A fantastic outing toping out the Happy Fun Time wall with great gear, nice climbing and some amazing belay positions.

1. (14) 15m Start 3m right of Warmup Crack at obvious lichen crack. Move over loose block (beware) to pull over lip onto slab with hand crack. Belay from corner at rear wall with multiple options to set gear anchor.

2. (15) 15m Climb triple crack that is much easier than it looks scooting up body chimney on left with gear on right. Aim for large tree above on right slinging it to continue through solid blocks to belay from double limbed tree tree on incredible flat cave ledge!

3. (17) 18m Swing left from belay over bulge with pockets and crack in small cave heading for out of sight headwall. (When moving through small cave please avoid altering the will of the free spirited block!). Quest up cracked headwall through pinched body chimneys aiming for large belay tree. Interesting solution to move through last body chimney off of slopers(crux).

4. (15) 18m Ledgy climbing diagonally left of belay to corner crack leading to top of cliff. This pitch gets its grade from last move (well protected) to pull over top of corner to top out cliff. Belay from trees and cracks.

Back up boulder rappel back to pitch 2 tree anchor. Consider watching the sunset hitting the Castle in the distance from cave ledge before rapping to ground. Mostly in the shade.

Extending Q up the natural line to top out the cliff via a spectacular traverse pitch.

1. (21) 30m Climb Q until overhanging chimney. Instead of bailing right, continue up chimney to awkward move establishing in short finger crack (crux). Continue through to belay from crack in back wall. Extending belay to top of finger crack helpful.

2. (18) 15m Climb up corner crack and body chimney above belay pulling onto slab with hand crack and continuing to belay from corner crack at rear wall.

3. (17) 15m Look right from belay in awe at incredible horizontal crack travelling towards dam. Plug in some gear and swing towards distant footer before embarking on a memorable journey with perfect jamBs and crimps all the while finding your feet. Belay from blocks at end of traverse on ledge.

Scramble up from ledge to large boulder at top of crack above 3rd pitch belay. Bring 7m of cord to back up boulder rappel down to pitch one belay anchor. 2 absails to reach ground.

This climb starts off on the big vegetated ledge after climbing the first pitch of DIVINE COMEDY. We found the rock quality to be better this way and it finishes up a unique water runnel. The best time to climb on the south side is from April until August as it has all day shade. Because of the all day shade allow for significant drying times after rain.

The name for this climb is after an experience we had upon our FA attempt. We were walking around to the south side and almost at waynes world when 2 hikers appeared from the bush. "Is this the way to the general " they asked. We all look at each other puzzled " Do you mean the tourist track " I ask. "yeah you know, the general way up " they reply. We joked about it the rest of the day and the name stuck.

PITCH 1 Grade 19, 15m. From the pitch 1 anchors of DIVINE COMEDY start traversing right around arete following fixed hangers. Good to use an extender on bolt just around arete to stop rope damage if falling.

PITCH 2 Grade 18, 30m. From DBB climb up through chimney to ledge then follow flake feature up to DBB.

PITCH 3 Grade 20 From DBB climb straight up keeping the fixed hangers on your left until you reach water runnel feature in which you climb through the middle.

From the top of Pitch 3 you can scramble up to a vegetated area and go off rope. From here you can either follow the goat track left and continue on with DIVINE COMEDY or keep going left to meet up with the tourist track.

A bold lead! The first 8m is unprotected until you get established in the groove/crack follow the groove/crack until it slabs out and traverse left a few meters to Blood Donations Bolt Belay.

Obvious corner right of overhang. Up corner and then slab.

Stand start to feature and scramble up on slab.

Start up the shallow crack, BD Red, Totem Green and yellow BD C3 (totem purple will also work though flaring) were used for protecting the crack, when crack ends follow the 12 FH up the slab till you reach the DBB to the left.

start on the larges ledge. Up the right leaning flaring chimney to where it become a groove then pull the lip, then follow the faint crack/groove to GT and the Ornithorhynchus DBB.

P1) 25m 11 Up grove till it ends (Trad), then slab passing 2 FH to a DBB.

P2) 30m 13 follow 14 FH up the slab to DBB. This pitch is similar to Insight on Castle Hill

The most adventurous route at the crag.

P1) 35m 15 up the right leaning crack with fiddly gear but with good stances, eases up for a bit until it steepens up and the groove/crack ends up slab passing 5 FH to DBB on spacious ledge.

P2) 25m 11 cruise up the chimney to DBB.

Start climb off the tall flake leaning at the base of the crack. Tricky move into the groove and up passing one FH. Follow the crack/groove until it ends. Climb the slab to the anchors passing 2 FH. Slab section is runout on easy ground.

Up the pleasure crack until it ends, then step right and up to the groove. pleasure yourself up the groove past a bush and large chock stones to fig tree, belay here. To get down either walk off or scramble a few meters up and right to DBB of Currawong Song.

Tricky move off the deck to enter the groove, cruisy till the cruxy pleasure box, continue up groove until it ends then step left into another groove to bolt belay. A 70m rope will just get you to the ground.

Start at the broken holds in front of the sign, just right of Piles & left of Cox's Edge. Thin moves to a very high first bolt (carrot), NOT using the big ledges out right. Up the face to gain the small ledge 7-8m up, standing on this, big reach to clip first bolt, more thin moves up to a big ledge & bomber trad gear (small cams), up flake (more gear: offset nuts + ballnuts), to high 2nd bolt, then top-out to Piles anchors.

Start: about 70m Left of The Graveyard Ridge corner, just left of a 2m corner.

1. 20m 16 Up, then trend Right, to groove, then up to belay.

2. 32m 17 Up, then trend Left, then up cracks, Right across pillar to stance & belay on block.

3. 30m 16 Up, then trend Right, up Left, then Right, belay at roof.

4. 60m 14 Up Left, then up, trending Right as you will.

Start: at the far Right corner, where the cliff becomes The Tiger Face, below a cleanish grey pillar with an offwidth crack at the top.

1. 40m 16 Up pillar and into shallow corner on the left.

2. 20m Up through pleasant roof to offwidth crack, up this to top.

Start: about 15m Left of the corner to the Tiger Face, in a shallow groove, below a nice corner at the top.

1. 40m 16 Up corner from tree, move to Right on the rib.

2. 20m Up rib face to delightful corner and top-out.

Start: 50m down Right of the Hourglass pillar, there is a corner which sweeps up, then out right, start below this.

1. 35m 17 Bridge up corner, belay where crack sweeps right.

2. 35m 17 Left to arête, up to ledge with largish tree.

3. 25m 12 Up, then Left to belay trees. Abseil from these.

Start: 20m down Right of the Hourglass pillar, in front of a large spotted gum.

1. 40m 18 Up heading towards 3rd corner Right of the Hourglass pillar, trend Right towards crack, then Left to belay on low angle wall.

2. 20m Up 7m, then Left to cross roof/corner at break, then 10m Left to belay.

3. 20m Up Right past water streak, then up Left to iron bark & belay on ledge.

Start up the short, wide crack of YKROMD, then up the line of least resistance, avoiding the bolts to anchors on ledge.

Thought provoking three dimensional climbing up the flake and corner system leads to a stellar move through the bulge. Gear is good where you need it, lower half requires a bit of focus around spaced gear (#5 won't go astray, but not required).

Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route.

This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.

1. 29m 13 Diagonally upwards to the right across the sloping ribs and then up onto a small ledge on the crest of an obvious nose. Slightly back to the left on downward sloping ledges to the base of a small, loose wall. Up this wall to a small Ironwood tree runner (? if still there?). Continue up the wall and then out to the right onto lightly vegetated shelf running up to the left. Ironwood tree belay (if still there?) at the left hand edge of shelf.

2. 17m 12 Directly up behind tree and into the obvious groove above. Up the groove/crack in the corner and out onto the left hand wall. Straight up over perched block to a small stance behind it. (Originally a piton belay.)

3. 12m 11 From stance, climb straight up small wall to left of crack and then ascend diagonally left over small rib. A traverse leads to the left over a series of sloping ledges for 9m to two wide, flat ledges in the middle of the face & belay. (originally a piton belay.)

4. 17m 14 Straight up the wall above for 4m, and then a delicate traverse to the left leads to the wide crevice in the corner (Patience Crack p2 belay). Step across the gap and then up to prominent shelf on the far wall & Ironwood tree belay (? if still there?)

5. 32m 13 Climb the 3m wall behind the ledge. Ascend diagonally up & to the right for 4m on the leftside of crevice/crack, cross over the crack, then ascend on small holds & ledges immediately to the right of the crack (to right of overhang). Straight up trending right. Up front of nose until level with large Ironwood tree (?) in gully to the left of nose.

From here, exit up & right, across vegetated ledges above Carborundum Chimney to access the Caves Route below Trojan.

1. 30m (19) Start as per PC, up crack on good gear to overhang, then straight up through the shallow chimney on scant holds & gear, to gain ledge above, then trend Right along this to crack corner & belay.

2. 32m (13) Up the obvious crack corner, beautiful laybacking, bridging and wall climbing & solid gear. Gain a small stance where Faith crosses wall and belay off tree/bush.

3. 32m (12) Traverse R and up continuation of corner, to finish on ledge & TB. From here, head up Right, across a vegetated scree slope, to join the Caves Route below Trojan.

Start up the far left side of the cliff left of unknown, slinging tree. Up to ledge, traverse across placing natural gear and up the cracked blocks to top out.

Start as for Bio-orgasmic Plasma Gun, traverse left at the ledge, then up the off-width. Top out and tree belay.