Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Rap off the chains at top of The Pinnacle down to tree about 20m down where the semi-hanging anchor is. Pull the rope and follow the bolts to end up on big ledge on the left and follow through the cave to an opening. Sling a boulder to make a belay. If you don't like run outs this top part probably isn't for you can feel very exposed. Originally meant to go straight up the face and back to chains but Mark ran out of bolts.

Ugly. Star as for M then L to the chimney and up this to the top.

Start in the obvious corner and climb straight up crack with good moves. Once in the cave reach out to the right to the "Eye" hold then up to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

Worth doing. Starts around the corner, 8m R of TFT. Easily up face to BR below base of bottomless corner. Layback up corner to below small roof, then slap around R (crux) and pull up to ledge. Up short crack and go for a walk in the "greenhouse" before finishing up the nice wide cracks in the corner. Has seen some huge groundfalls from the corner.

The route you wouldn't wish on your worst enemy. The wide crack and corner. Start at the twin crack running up the distinct LH corner. Up L of slab to crack and up to large block (crux), over large boulder to finish.

One of the first recorded routes at Mt Stuart. Climbs the obvious R facing corner to ledge at half height then solid laybacking up the flake to top. Tricky to protect down low; take small wires/RP's, very small cam, 0 Camalot X3 works a treat. You need to be solid at grade 17 to lead this route (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb). Be wary of the block at the top which appears to move (though some reinforcement was done late 2021).

A good variation to Cannonball, from the ledge at half height, take the flake on the R to the thin horizontal, traverse back along this to Cannonball.

Continually interesting face and crack climbing that is not well protected at the start. Up the light coloured face to the diagonal crack (or start up the diagonal of ZZ) diagonal L to a small cam then diagonally R to the crack. Up this to the top, #2.5-3 cam at the top.

Climb ZZ till level with the first ledge. Veer L to join up with Hard Rain. Finish as for HR.

Climb EM but instead of traversing left to the ledge, blast straight up and pull over the bulge passing the FH to the ledge. Finish as for ZZ.

1. Start on 'Under The Cling' and then traverse all the way across to the half-way ledge on Cannonball.

2. Finish up 'Cannonball' (Layback up flake).

Start at the marked "F" and move up corner to ledge, then take flaked groove on the left to finish.

Start in "Drainpipe" and follow crack diagonally up and to the left.

Starts 1m right of the marked "C" then move straight up (NO PRO)

Apparently worthwhile and solid for the grade. Around the arete from KOHD and 2m L of the major corner. Take the crack to the V groove and the crux. Watch for loose blocks at the top.

Directly below Avalon is a disappearing crack which leads to a ledge at 25m, a cruxy face and scrub bash out.

Start at the bolt R of 'Lost in the Land of Grimm'. Up the slab passing another bolt below a short vertical section with a thin crack running up the L. Continue through the crux.

Use slings to avoid rope drag in the top section.

1. (14) Crack to ledge

2. (17) Out right then up and diagonally right across thin holds. Good protection.

Ugly but interesting. This tends to describe the crack/gully to the right of 'Mixed Heritage' which is a lot better than it looks. Climb up the 5m slab to the R of 'MH' to the belay ledge. Follow the obvious crack to the roof marvelling that something so ugly can have such good gear. Crank R of the roof onto the back of the big blade, & climb to the tip. Up & L a bit to the last of the gear, then run it out up a small slab to finish.

A dirty offwidth crack, 1.5m L of Tampa Proof. Up the offwidth to a sloping ledge with a tree under a roof. Up the tree and step across to follow the line until the vegetation. Step R to small ledge and another tree and top out to a big ledge.

15m to the right of 'Mixed Heritage' are 2 cracks 1.5m apart from each other. 'Tampa Proof' is the RH line. Nice climbing with good gear & a sling off a tree takes you to a large belay ledge.

Really good climbing avoiding the offwidth bits. Start up the RH crack, through the roof, and L across the O/W to the base of the stonking corner. Save a 1 1/2 Cam for here. Up to chains, taking care of the elkhorn.

Grunty. Take RS to the roof anf follow the wide crack through the bulde above, hugging the L arete lustfully.

The offwidth climb R of TBB.

The crack R of Amazon Woman.

Directly below The Nursery Cliff is a terrace and lower cliff. Abseil chains 15m L of top of Pleasure Unit (double ropes) to DBB. Corner/ramp up and L. Two pitches of interesting face climbing (can be done in one). Crux at the bottom.

It's easiest to rap into this route, but can access from the ground via a tough scramble.

1. Runout climbing up the arete and up right at the ledge to the DBB.

2. Interesting slabby climbing on good rock. Start R of the belay and sinuously up and L.

The short layback corner 5m R of OMN, around the arete.

The LH crack - L of Streetwise Gecko.

Up the RH crack - R of The Naked Gecko.

The first route done on the Main Faces. Again, this route is only included because you can rap down it - it's not particularly enjoyable. It's the obvious steep black V-corner in the prominent gully and can be seen from the highway.

1. 25m 16 From the ground, climb the wide black crack (slightly tricky) to a tree and move L onto the slab. Pass the slab and into the crack again, belaying at a comfortable point.

2. 20m (18 crux) Continue up the V-corner which gets progressively harder to the large ledge with tree.

3. 20m Finish up the fat crack full of big chockstones.

To get to Pleasure Unit's top rap station from The Playground, instead of wandering down the L (looking seaward) Playground descent track, follow the vague walking track L for about 30m (look for white survey peg). Now scramble R down the fairly obvious gully for about 30m to the rap station at the top of Pleasure Unit.

1. Starting near TPD.

2. From the chains traverse 3m R and down into the big corner crack. Continue up the line past some loose blocks, finishing up Feral Crack.

The obvious crack in the middle of the wall R of SC.

Starts as for TS but veer L and up to a ledge then pull around R side of bulge to crack and exit.

Located on the ground approximately 25m R of "Tristar", it's the best middle grade multi-pitches on Mt Stuart. A decent route with nice rock and brilliant views overlooking Townsville. The first and the last two pitches are sensational. There's plenty of good pro and some exciting moves. It's a great intro climb to the Mt Stuart area and can be top roped and split into two pitches. The last two pitches can be strung into one pitch but watch for rope drag and the sloping ledge.

Best accessed via rappelling down from rusty chain to P2 Chains and then again down to bottom of cliff.

1. 25m 18 Climb the sustained black R-leaning corner/slab, steepening at top to gain a ledge with small tree. Natural belay.

2. 13m 16 Up the groove to gain sloping ledge. Chain belay.

3. 12m 10 Traverse L past corner with FH (The Fifth Wind) and down around nose to belay below obvious V corner and arête. Beware of huge death block in traverse.

4. 20m (18 crux) Strenuously up steep crack in arête to where it finishes. Step L around arête to gain another corner then up to sloping ledge.

5. 30m 17 Climb straight up steep headwall to gain a ledge then continue up to final ledge and belay. Alternatively, traverse right once at fixed hanger to rusty long chain (rap station).

Classic sports route for the grade. Crux at beginning for some. After last bolt, move right around the final roof and bolt of chains DBB. They are hidden from above so not good for access to the wall.

Start at the open book corner and finger crack 20m R of GA. Up, then go R at roof.

Start as for Singer but head L 2m at the top and run it out up the face to the tree.

Short, powerful and pumpy.

One of the cleanest cracks on Mt Stuart. Worth getting off the beaten track. Takes up to size 0.75. Well protected lay backing fun. Dbb for lower off under first rooflet. For access, rap down Secret Gardens then follow cliff line for 30m

Short and exposed finish. Significantly easier finish if you go right and then traverse left along top jugs to reach the anchor.

If only it was longer! U bolt anchor.

At the ledge before the anchor climb to the left for an easier finish. Grade 21 if you climb direct up arete using the right hand face ('Purple Rain' finish).

Up the obvious crack to traverse right to mantle. Tree belay.

Up the left leaning crack to join in with Oxygen Cascade at traverse. Tree belay.

Walk towards the backpackers until it is visible, the route is in the middle of a wall facing the resort, and follows the obvious flake that stops at half height.

Standing start. The route goes straight up and over without using the groove on the right which is part of Mic drop. Great undercling

Standing start. Goes up the groove without using the holds of Master slave.

The diagonal offset fistcrack. It's not a warmup and it's not fun. I’m sorry about this climb.

Starting on the arete and trying not to use the small boulder to the right. Very contrived.

High ball, just don't fall. Stemming.

This climb has a bit of everything: laybacks, slopers, and crimps. There's a perfect resting area before the last crux, a mantle to get up to the DRB. Can easily set up as a top rope climb.

Open project. Stemming up to crackline.

Open project. Crack climb.

Open project. Up the obvious crackline in the boulder.

traverse until beefy side pull hold to top

Painful with course granite. Follow the crack then step left on to fiddly face.

Left of Insight P3. Up the layback feature to DRB.

Start at ramp and up through boulder problem to lower-off DRB.

Starts down and R of Swinging Giants. Up slightly vegetated crack, through crux to a slightly loose top out. Belay at Swinging Giants DRB.

Left of Rusty Bolts. Up face between the two large blocks. Up through nice rock to tree and DRB.

1. Start on right side of gully 5m from Insight as for VVS. Follow line of U-bolts up slabby, pocketed face to DUB.

2. Follow left-hand line of U bolts to DUB anchor.

3. Layback up pillar, stepping on to face to be confronted by technical movement with a slabby, right trending finish finish.

Starts as for Hindsight. Follow well protected line, veering right at top to fixed hanger anchors at base of "Rusty bolts". Can be climbed in 1 or two pitches.

Bypass start by traversing in right from ramp on vision pitch 1

Starts 5m right of vision. Option to bypass start by traversing in from ramp on vision pitch 1. Can reach vision ledge via one bolt extension.

A good alternative to Vision's first pitch. Up "One for the Kids" to the third FH then L and up the steepening slab to mantle ledge (crucial 2.5 cam). Continue up L past 4th FH to finish up the thin crack to the top of the 1st pitch of Vision.

Starts about 7m R of Vision. Up flakes to clip first FH then up to second FH and up onto the slab and third FH. Now trend easily up and R to finish at double rings. A popular and fun sport route. 3 FHs.

A good crag warm up. A tricky start and finish with a flowery middle!

Starts 5m right of Open Project #3. Follow the first 5 bolts straight up over the crux to a right traverse then a easy climb to the DRB.

An ANZAC day memorial climb. Starts 5m R of FF.

Well protected with a full rack of cams and some small wires. Up slab for 2.5m to single pocket. Run it out easily to stance and first FH. A couple of tricky slab moves lead up to the second FH then up and slightly R to pocket (small wire). Up another few metres to pocket. Now big runout up easy slab to below overhang. Traverse L about 3m below overhang until it eases and finishes as for FF past a big cam in a horizontal (through the easiest section of overhang to a big ledge with a natural pro belay).

Starts approximately 10m R of UWF on far R of detached block, just L of the chimney. Faintly marked but hard to see the paint. Possibly no pro and look like it fully blanks out on the top section.

Under the far, far R-hand side of the main roof. Look up to locate the crack-corner (obvious line). Starts below and R of this. Easy slab up to the corner. The 5m corner would be the crux, on bomber med-large hexes and cams. Set of FH's at the end.

Sport multipitch geared to beginners who are keen to try a new skill. Morning shade. Chain anchors. Ten quickdraws. Abseil down with a 50m rope or walk uphill to the right from Spookeye start.

1. (14) Straight up black slab to big ledge.

2. (18) Step right from ledge then up to short corner, stem up this onto sloping ledge then traverse left to chains.

3. (17) Move left up to corner and crack, step right onto tree ledge then up onto slab for a few metres.

4. (15) Long straightforward slab.

5. (14) Short scramble to top.

Starting down the gully. Up delicate slab to FH and though to broken headwall. DRB.

Start in the middle of the wall and move straight up staying left of the bolts through overhang then straight up to chains. (Top Rope anchor can be set up of chains)

Starting below the chains and moving up and to the right keep to the left of the easy corner and finish at chains.

Starts a few meters right of arete. Move up slightly overhung fist sized crack, over short slab to corner then finish up another short slab. (Can be top roped with long anchor set-up)

Start with scramble onto first ledge, watch out for loose rocks (helmet for belayer highly recommended) good feet to left hand ledge, push to third ledge and stand upright. Left high to start crux with good feet. Bump left hand with a switch foot to left high. Left good hold into small layback (ish style move) to pressure climb up, to bad hands. Trust your feet with a large RH pinch and top out.

Traverse at top block. L to R or R to L.

Sit start on crimps (layback) with a bad feet then bump and mantle.

Standing start, follow the obvious crack.

Sit-start for “South Face”

Contrived, but still good. Good rock throughout. Smooth face 3.5m L of arête to horizontal crack at 2/3 height. Your last gear goes in here. Now straight up the middle of the face to the top. Don't stray. Belay from "SIASSB" anchor.

Repeat ascentionists have placed gear in KC to protect the top, but you won't.

A popular, nice slab climb. A good workout for your legs. Start at the bottomless, left-facing corner 30m R of arête. Finish up the loose exit to a boulder belay. Three FH's, wires at top.

A deceptively good climb with some nice moves. Start 3m R of KOTSW. Up ramp to clip first FH. Up and trend L to pro in the big groove. Now up (crux) onto slab and clip second FH then cake to the top and a 45 degree FH belay.

Starting 3m R of TLKG below the obvious double rooflets with two black FH's. Up ramp to below 1st overhang, clip FH above, crimp and pop around overhang. Slightly L beneath 2nd overhang, and then directly through this past FH (no stepping around L!). Now a naturally protected 10m ramble - a fun excursion.

Start via stemming and continue up the arete to finish at a DRB.

Stick clip the first bolt. To gain the first hold, do the splits off the boulder. Balance your way up delicate face climbing. Top out for anchors.

Mantle over the arete at the 8th bolt of Chopped for a short version. DBB found on top of boulder. Recommended to second to clean and rappel to lower off.

Up the obvious route via good holds. This is also the easiest way to descend the boulder. Sit start for a harder problem.

Start at "Binocular Pocket". Move up and diagonally right past the first hangerless bolt of BP, continuing diagonally up right though to hangerless bolt of SW, keep moving right to clip fixed hanger bolt of NBN when at chest height. Stay left of the bolt and move through bulge (crux) to run-out but easy finish on slab.

2m right of "Sinkbug" up corner to ledge under orange pillar (trad pro) move right to pillar arete, clip hangerless bolt, then up pillar (crux) to finish. Easy tree belay. Bolt is missing nut. #missingbolt

yet to be climbed. 3m to the right of Nest and straight up the slab.