Routes in Australia for selected grade

The middle crack splitting the blocks

Corner centre of crag. Straight up RHS of corner. Best after a dry spell.

More of an access route than anything else. Useful as an easy descent route.

Unlikely to be a FA, but hey, I'll claim it until someone else does.

This climb has been upgraded from 8 to 9 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

There is a block a few meters L of SS. Off this then up on jugs. Solo FA.

P1 : Up chimney an bolt over chockstone to belay. P2 : "Toohey's Traverse" traverse right to bolt belay.

Starts as for "Big Kiss". Can be broken into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (either at first crack after traverse or at the top crack at the lower rib). This original start eliminates the closing offwidth crack start.

Start below the right of the two cracks in the wall in front of the huge boulder at the bottom of the crag as for "Big Kiss". Climb this crack over the easing angle and then traverse right over slab to join left facing crack (SS DS). Starts tending left up to horizontal break, and follows the water stain across small holds (slippery after rain).

The route then joins the start of right tending crack just above the vegetation in the rib over easing ground for 10m to the lower of 2 old rusted Parks Victoria fence/sign poles. Belay at end of the crack.

Walk off toward summit and join track.

Similar to Coolu. Up wide chimney and top out left.

The R facing corner then the shallow L facing corner to a ledge. Straight up to finish at two boulders.

6m R of boulder against cliff (forming step). 1. 16m (8) Up and left passing BR to get to big flake. Follow flake to DRB and lower off or continue the next pitches. 2. 26m (11) Up and L to follow flakes to stance. 3. 24m (6) Straight up to the top.

Something of an easy classic. The major corner to the ledge and rap rings.

Located on the arete at the bottom of the third terraced area/gully uphill and L of main cliff. Start at arete, up steep juggy section to small ledge. Traverse 2m R, then up to a ledge. Move into the gully/groove on the R and up.

Start: Some 30m left of ‘Deceit’ on terrace.

1. 7m Up crack to belay on trees.

2. 43m Straight up undulating rock to top (probably little or no protection).

Start: 17m downhill of FitWW.

Finger crack at back of chimney. The easiest way on and off Scone Rock.

Start 2m left of Narcissus and climb the bulging arete and slabby wall above straight up.

Pleasant easy climb up a great line. Left facing stepped corner left of the bulging wall with Lou and Evelyn.

The obvious large diagonal crack on the western side of 'T-shirt Gully'

Start: From the large ledge at the base of the crack.

Up the L arete and R onto the slab. Up the flake. A little loose and not well protected.

1. 12m As for Evolution.

2. 27m From R hand end of ledge, climb crack until it is possible to move into gully to the L. Grade unknown.

The far left arete.

Traverse L just below the cave to the corner at the L end of the cave to belay. Traverse easily to the R to abseil as for 'Cannes'.

Start: To the L of 'Cannes' is a short wall capped by a cavernous roof, with a distinctive flaring chimney at its R-hand end. The 'Cannes' rappel is directly above this. Start at the boulder somewhere near the centre of this wall where a vague line leads up and L toward the cave above.

Prominent R-facing corner on west side of south end of ridge (towards L end of first crag of reasonable size). 5 mins walk from carpark (250m).

The chimney to the R of SAS. Completely disgusting, but good if you're into that kind of sick perverted thing.

Best used as a descent route. Line under Finders Keepers Wall.

The obvious crack eight metres left of 'Slim Fingers Crack'.

The nearest I can figure is that this climbs the crack on the face to the Left of Kidstuff, assuming that Kidstuff takes the line in the chimney/gully.

Head R then up the chossy front-side of the prow.

Start: Start at the teetering stack on the R side of the gully, at the initials.

Start: Small bluff 6m right of 'Clam'

1. 20m crack, traverse left and up bulge

2. 13m 'Clam' P2.

Start: The 3rd crack line L of BD.

Up the off-width between the 2 pillars, thru small overhang to top of pillar. Has little to offer but the interesting exit move around the overhanging boulder.

Rap off the TOJJ tree.

Apparently only 1m R of 'Jupiter', but 29m longer and 5 grades easier...

Start: Start 5m R of the R chimney.

"The chimney; a boulder problem" No pro?

The glory lives on? The chimney on the L side of the diamond.

Follow arete all the way to top.

Start: Slightly uphill of BNP, 5 metres left (description says right but that makes no sense) of the start of 'Generation Gap', at the left arete.

The short crack and corner 1m L of Karl Malden's Nose.

Not really a climb but rather an alternative to Stag Gully. Follows the line on the right of Stag Gully, up a corner formed by the slab to the left of Blue Lake Crack.

The left of the two obvious trenches in the face where the path arrives at the crag.

The wall between Terina Spa Water and Solo Orange.

At second pitch traverse 7m L. Then go up and left making sure to stay R of a small overhang. Over overhang go up and R to rejoin main line.

I can see them queuing for this. Cracks 9m R of 'Cesspool', 3m L of blocks.

Start: Obvious large orange corner towards the RH end of the cliff.

1. 35m (8) The corner to a niche below the overhang. Move R around the bulge and R again to belay

2. 30m (8) Move R to a dead tree [possibly long gone] then L up small gully and straight up to finish through a short chimney/crack.

Corner to ledge, flake on right wall.

Start: 14m right.

Left of Hernia, up and out cave left.

Huge old-fashioned chimney.

Follows the flaking ramp left of 'Boardshorts'.

As good as it sounds. The broken corner R of NWJ.

Start at shattered groove, 2m R of prominent crack R of Genesis's slab. 1) 13m Groove to the junction with the crack at overhang. Traverse L to belay on bushy ledge. 2) 44m Slab above, moving L when the holds start to thin. Up groove on R, to easier ground below the obvious hanging block. Up corner-crack to the top

The grey slab visible uphill from "The Mountain Lion".

Start: 1m right of arete.

3m steps to carrot then a few chances for nuts in notches, slings, and 2 cams to intact tree belay.

Start: Chimney 1m left of Lactose Free.

Crack right of One's a Crowd

The crack R of arete

Climb up the opposite side of the chimney to the tree.

'The gayest and most light·hearted climb I can remember, everyone being in the highest spirits.' (Dr. Eric Dark)

Start below prominent S arete / ridge.

1-6) Wander up arete/ridge. Dark remembers passing two chimneys on the way, the second of which by passed 'an enormous overhang right at the top'.

The rightwards leaning crack four metres left of and joining 'Argonaut'.

Follow the line of least resistance up the giant black slab. Has a great spot for a belay half way up. Climbs for 70m then has a bit of a walk 10m to a last little climb before topping out.

Easiest line straight up the CP face, on really nice rock. 2BR, 2BB

Probably worthless but no-one has definitely located it.

Start about 60 metres up King Rat Gully where the left side becomes a short juggy wall. Prairie starts at the steep line 2 metres right of a corner.

Up the crack on good holds until a ledge at 25m. Traverse off left along tis ledge.

Easy climbing up the crack on the Right, exiting out through the hole.

Start: Start between the two chimneys.

1. 25m (8) Add a few grades the further you start to the right. Up jugs just L of crack to ledge.

2. 21m (8) Up to follow large crack.

The crack right of the right-hand arete of the outcrop.

A big black juggy old school slab.

Start:On corner at left of black wall with carved KG initials, shared with The Belfry.

1. 25m (8) Up and slightly right to tree belay.

2. 35m (-) Continue trending right past a few small bulges and good belay ledge, or another 10-15m to start of vegetated gully and tree belay.

3. Scramble up gully and scrub to eventually finish under bridge.

Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit.

Start: Start at a crack on the east face of the pinnacle.

This is probably what Noddy has written up as Marbles in Argus, but graded 11!. Start 4m left of Pure and Simple, just right of a flake sticking up out of the ground. Head straight up. Good gear and climbing the whole way.

Straight up to high point. No Pro

The original described short route to get on top of crowlands wall. Start at diagonal crack same as Swerv'n Mervin but continue left to top and do not take right diagonal crack. Descend off Crowlands rap chain.

Take the line of least resistance off The Terrace, starting at the right-hand end.

The right of the two obvious trenches in the face where the path arrives at the crag.