Routes as trad in North East

Two bolts up a very blank looking rounded arete/face lead to an easier crack.

Start as for Long Knife, clipping the first bolt on the arete out right, and continuing up the offwidth/chimney until at the same height as the 2nd bolt.

Traverse boldly right onto the arete to gain the 2nd bolt, then traverse boldly further right to gain the line of glue-in rings heading directly up the aesthetic arete.

Large Wires and large cams #3, #4/#5 to protect the initial crack. Consider climbing on 2-ropes and dropping the first once you gain the 2nd bolt on the arete to avoid hideous drag from the trad-section.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LE61cvEsU10

Shares start with Symptom of the universe then moves right at 5m follows the thin seam

The thin crack with face holds left of the overhanging offwidth. Nice moves on good holds (about 22) lead to a ridiculously thin boulder problem finish and DBB.

Corner on L with single bolt

A striking line, and a contender for the best route in the gorge. Originally done with 3 bolts (as it stands now it is equiped in the same style as the first ascent), it was the hardest climb in Tasmania at the time of the first ascent.

Start by climbing Long Knife and at ~5m place a runner (slinging the massive chockstone with a 240 runner seems to work a treat) start traversing left until the small seam is reached, place small RPs in the thin seam and then climb past a few FHs and good RPs at the lip to double chains at the top. A small cam - red or green C3 - can be nice for the very top.

A variant pitch for the third pitch of Laendler and a classic in its own right. Starting and finishing on the same belay ledges. Unrelenting difficult finger-locking.

Steep climbing directly up the seams just right of the big blank corner.

Under highway bridge near Tamar Marine. Run start at wall to flat edge, traverse right and mantle into vertical crack using the crimp on the bottom of the large steel beam. Continue right and finish through tight hands roof crack to top out onto the highway. 1x #1,2, and 3 cams is suitable protection plus some slings for top anchor

LHS of main buttress R of the corner. 3FH's + 1 carrot bolt + 2 FH DBB

Face into finger crack - then over the top block. 4FH's plus some gear.

On the upper tier, downstream of the old car stuck up in the cliff. Rap in from DBB above, using the line as a belay anchor.

One of the best in the gorge. An incipient crack on the left offers good protection.

Bolted arete to the R of Gabriel. Originally led with only a single bolt. DBB.

bolts have been replaced as of June 2022.

Take a micro cam for the top

Pillar with 3 eye bolts. Take some wires for the top crack. DBB

Gnarly short finger crack. Do a few face moves and then power and thrutch and smear your way up the remaining thin crack. Good gear but a bit beta intensive to place.

Roof crack on the eastern end of the crag. Easy start into overhanging fist crack, then a 5m hand crack through the roof, with a hanging slab just before the lip. Turning the lip is the crux. Be careful of the rope jamming in the crack.

3 classic corners stacked on top of one another, broken up by comfy belay ledges. Currently the hardest multi-pitch on the mountain. Take plenty of small gear including a full set of RPs.

1. 25m 25

2. 25m 25

3. 15m 25 Crux pitch

4. 25m 21 Step left and continue up the flared crack, or continue direct up the dirty hand crack (19).

Thins seam up the wall just left of Rondeau

If you like your curries spicy and your trad routes the same, this one is for you. Climbs the twin seams left of Bautzen, without using the blocks or crack of Bautzen. The crux is the sparsely protected moves to the first ledge. Continue up seams with better gear and easier moves to finish up V groove. DBB as for Bautzen

Thin seam on left side of the 4th pillar. Unprotected boulder problem to gain the thin crack.

Face on the right end of the cliff with intermittent thin seams. Excelent pro.

Thin crack/seam immediately above where the access track meets the rock. DBB.

Up and around roof into corner. 3 FH's plus some natural gear. DBB on ledge above.

Start up Airfix, the into thin seam up arete

Thin seam on LHS of wall

Thin central line with 2 bolts. Supposedly one of the better lines for the grade in the gorge.

The bolted arete. Bring some wires for the bottom seam.

The trench like groove up the arete on the far RH side of the main buttress. x4 carrot bolts, plus a #1 camalot. DBB

Start up gear protected seams R of Deathrow to slab/ledge. Continue up the line of bolts on the far R arete to DBB.

1.5 Camelot for horizontal break

Bolted line up steep arete. Take a small/finger sized cam for the break.

Face L of offwidth crack, moving L onto arete.

Fused corner on left

The two thin cracks. DBB at the top.

The main line up the face of the alcove. Climb past 3 FH to stand on pedestal, place some gear in the crack, from here some holds out left lead the way to the top. DBB on ledge.

Face into thin crack. Stick clip first bolt. DBB

2 bolts up face to finger sized crack.

Even more contrived than Feinian. Stick clip recommended. Stay left of the bolts on ultra-thin side pulls, then step right to finish up the finger crack (gear).

A novel traverse from 2nd bolt of Night Dweller to Feltham.

The original - traversing into the line from the left via the trad crack. Can still be done using the original x3 carrot bolts if you feel so inclined..recently retro bolted. DBB

Blast up the middle of the Laendler Face. Sure to keep you smiling for a day or two. Take a biggish range of gear from tips to the #6 camolot. Doubles up to #4 camalot, maybe some triples of tips to #1 could also calm your nerves. Start 30m R of Laendler at a prominent NW-facing crack splitting the front of a column (as for Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door).

1. 25m 17. Up the crack (hands then offwidth then squeeze chimney) to ledge.

2. 25m 24. "The Fire Cracker" - On right side of ledge up past a flared hand jam start heading towards the roof, climbing on the right side of the fin. Traverse left under roof and finish on a ledge a few meters up and left.

3. 20m 16. Step back right and climb the line above, eventually break out left on face holds to access the ledge and the start of "the squeeze".

4. 10m 17. "The squeeze" - take some big gear!

5. 25m 19. Straight up twin cracks via some tricky layway moves. Belay on high ledge or take a few extra mid sized cams and link pitch 5 and 6.

6. 12m 23. More tricky moves eventually give way to hand jams. Provides an exciting end to this climb.

7. 10m 10. Head up the ridge until you can sneak around left to the start of pitch

8. 25m 18. As for Rock-A-Day Johnny. Up recessed L-facing corner on R to niche, move L and up to ledge, then up short crack on L to block belay.

9. 25m. Scramble to the top. Descent is best by walking down the first suitable gully in the Heathcliff direction (about 300m from the top of the route) - this is very easy and much quicker than the standard descent gully. You should come down directly in front of the main buttress of The Rocks.

Next line R of Dangerman, starts as a tips lay back and slowly opens up to thin hands. Another classic. Generally possible to lower off tat at the top of the first pitch, or continue as for Dangerman.

Direct finish to Born Loser, finsihing straight through the roof.

Project.

The finger crack right of the arete on the 6th pillar.

Starts on the left edge of the prow right of Ebro. Towards the top move around the arete and layback around the roof.

Furthest route left above Francisco Ferrer, climbs through roof via thin crack.

3FH’s plus gear for the break. DBB

Thin finger cracks R of Battle of Leipzig, and then trend R into hand crack on arete

The arete with three widely spaced bolts. Dangerous fall potential between the first and second. DBB

Zig-zagging line of bolts towards the LHS of main cliff. 5 FH's plus some finger sized cams. DBB

Arete & face with carrot bolts

Two bolts up thin seams. Ledge into crack.

Blank trad corner

Starting from a ledge on upper right tier. Climb first half of Airfix, then traverse 10m left to arete. Up on carrot bolts.

Fist crack, finger crack, face with carrot bolt

On the LHS of middle tier with carrots

Bolted left arete into face. Take a #2 camalot.

Trad line R of Divine Appointment

Blunt arete on the R with U bolts. Take a cam for the horizontal break. DBB

Bolted face L of Die Young