Routes as trad in East

14 going on 17 The easiest route to the summit. Bring a standard rack of cams from micro to #2 along with a small selection of nuts (micro to large) and roughly 10 alpine draws. Expect the placements to be average and the climbing to be around grade 17 on average rock quality with high ledge fall potential. To find the start scramble up into the large, dark east notch and abseil 10-15m down the other side to a hanging belay on the spiky shrubs (bring a spare sling for this rap point) P1 - Climb the mossy wall up the easiest weakness, trending left and mounting a few tricky mantles. Follow the line of easiest weakness up the jam crack (passing old piton) and into difficult vegetated mantle. Build belay here. P2 - Scramble up diagonal slope to the left (15m) P3 - Up the easy but barely secured boulders, belay from a large boulder and single bolt on the far side of the top. A 60m rope is enough to rap back down into the notch (30mish)

The crack just right of Yeah.

Just south of Gorky's Zygotic Mynchki, climb the short wall then the seam splitting the orange and black bulge.

A good route. Climb the vertical seam to the break, place bomber cams, then make tricky moves over the bulge onto the top.

Up the crack.

A fun traverse above the waves. Starting and finishing on dry land. Start on the north western corner of the big rock. Climb onto the boulder then step across onto the big rock using a big undercut flake. Traverse left along the break, under the roof and around the corner until an awkward step down onto a sloping ledge. From here step down onto the boulders, a couple of meters to the right of 'If Fingers Were Xylophones'. Well-protected with small and medium cams.

On the south eastern face of the big rock. Climb the finger crack and bulge.

Easy climbing on great rock. Follow the crack line up starting on the platform just above sea level. Solo first ascent, but appears that there would be good gear for a trad lead.

Excellent continuous crack climbing with a few face features. Solo first ascent but it looks like the gear would be good.

Climb the splitter block. Excellent rock. Solo FA.

The hand crack

Twin cracks in an open groove, one thin, the other ever-widening.

The thin groove

Right most finger crack, with tips through to thin hand.

Middle crack beginning with finger jams into thin hands

Left most decent looking finger cracks with block at beginning

Left of The great unknown. Offwidth to body chimney, protectable on micro cams, from bd #0.3 down

Hand to offwidth crack, slightly easier than offwidth to the right.

In the gully on the left of absent friends main buttress. Hand crack which gets thin and flared before reaching a ledge and up second hand crack.

Chimney up for two meters, to pefect hand crack in corner. Classic jamming for the grade. On the left side of the gully 20 m north of of absent friends buttress

Grunt up perfect offwidth to body chimney, void of any cheater holds

Sustained thin hands.

Layback and Jam up to the offwidth. Up crack and face to chains.

1m R of Have Hans, Will Jam

Follow the hands and off-hands to a tree. Up to the chains. Would be good if it was just the crack.

Stem between the offwidth and hand/finger crack. Continue to chains.

Off width.

Dance between the twin cracks finishing at a rap anchor.

Good pro, fiddly and a sparse but adequate. One carrot on the slab.

Start as for Science Circus but head up left across the blank face to finish up hand crack. Poorly protected. Possible on top rope from Turn the Page anchors.

Just before the main crag is a small face. Climb this.

The deeply excavated wide crack you arrive at on the track, some nice layback moves, on some larger gear, belay from tree at top.

Alluring looking finger crack that is much more technical than it appears, well protected

The best climb on the crag, up the challenging seam, With good but fiddly gear, don’t be tempted to head out to the bolts on the face to the left!

Prominent right leaning jam crack with a couple layback moves and a strenuous crux

Good moves up the sharp edged crack. well protected

Mixed. Starts up Edelweiss.

Varied, clean corner crack of all sizes.

Burly, well-protected crack. Reminiscent of a Brown and Whillans thrutch! E1 5c.

Okay crack on right side of alcove. Often wet.

A small cam is reccommended for the crux seam in the middle, and a medium size cam for the runout at the top.

Nice looking zig-zag hand crack.

Steep corner on R. Hard in the middle ... maybe more than 20.

The off-width. Apparently, "it had to be done". The climbing itself maybe even worse than the name, but you'll have to climb it to find out. Don't expect much gear.

100m north of the main buttress is a #3 and #4 size flake crack with an incut start. Tree and gear belay

The freestanding pillar on the northern end of the cliff line. Start in the chimney on the left of the front face to gain a slab. Slab right to a steep crack and pull through this to again gain a slab. Trend left along a break to an arete and summit the pillar

Up the flake/crack system right of Block O'Clock as for Gerry's Project, then trend left on gear following the weakness to the arete and up to anchors of Block O'Clock.

A fun, mostly trad multi that extends Underestimated all the way to the Supernaut Ledge. Will make an excellent alternative to Tomorrow's Dream if you have done that a few times.

1. 25m (22) As for Underestimated to the belay.

2. 20m (16) Lovely trad pitch up the obvious right leaning crack. Good gear and fun moves the whole way. Belay at double bolts on ledge.

3. 35m (21) Hard start off ledge past bolt and key 0.4 cam then intriguing face climbing on excellent gear and passing one more bolt to double bolts on ledge.

4. 20m (18) Funky, fully bolted slab pitch to the Supernaut Ledge.

The first route at Bare Rock.

A moderate ground-up way to access the Boneyard all on Trad, mossy; but the abseil traffic has cleaned it up considerably. Starts at the rap line, just left of the nose of the original 'Boneyard Route'.

1. 30m 18. First pitch climbs the rap line / corner taking the R fork for the last 3m to the rap chain.

2. 30m 18. Traverse R for 5m (no pro, maybe anchor off the rap line!?), then straight up thin crack just around the nose. Move left to corner, then finish up mossy wall (poor pro).

Finger crack to lower off.

Clip the first two bolts then up the steep Trad crack (small/medium wires and cams).

Continue up the fantastic face above. Classic climbing all the way and one of the best routes here.

Climb the thin grey crack right of Passchendaele then join it at its upper crux and anchor

Start up Angel Of Pain (26), then cross over Passchendaele (0.75 and 0.5 cam) and move left to gain the upper section of Legends Never Die. Super sustained with a desperate crux below the anchors on flailing arms.

One of the best steep cracks anywhere in Australia. The first pitch is Tassie's answer to Trojan and the second is a rarely done but worthwhile 22 bolted face pitch.

1. 30m (25) Up the obvious steep crack in the middle of the cliff. Brilliant gear and moves trend gradually rightwards to finish at a DBB.

2. 20m (22) Up the face on good but slightly dirty rock.

Start up Passchendaele then break left up thin jamb crack to lower off.

Climbs the left leaning crack from the big guano patch up onto the orange wall then head back right 5m and out to the barbarella anchor.

The supposed polar opposite of a Velvet Morning. The prominent crack bordering the orange.

The line above the jumar approach. Mixed, long, sustained and hard for the grade. There are two way to climb at the crux, out left to the bolts gives the route it's grade. Climbing directly up the crack is considered much closer to 25+ but much better.

A short slab route following a thin crack up the face hardest moves are just of the ground on very fiddly nuts. Trends right following crack line to the anchors for “The Proposal”

Up onto ledge then easily up through corner crack and out to right,

Start in right leaning crack and finger traverse around to the prow, continue up finger crack to ledge, then easily up unprotected face on good holds

Scramble easily up the ramp to a ledge, then finish on a few nice moves up the short corner crack

On the face to the right of Die Hard is a seam up to a ledge, climb the seam with a nice finger jam crux to gain the ledge. Once on the ledge pull a couple of moves through the chubby finger crack roof.

the best looking crack third line R of the arête of the upper amphitheatre. The climb is sustained off-hand to fist crack but thins towards the top.