Routes in Tasman Peninsula

Past two U bolts to flake with good natural gear. Continue up to ledge to join the top of 'Burning Spear p1'

Superb pitch, but one of the last routes on the cliff to feel 'in condition'. The move right to the tooth from the obviously salty undercling is greasy but you can work this with some creative body tension.

About 20m downhill from Hoorayfabob, the pinnacle is separated from the main cliff by a narrow chimney. Starts off broken slabs and rock to R of pinnacle. Rap off slings on top.

SDS Laybacking with hands and feet in the thin crack, head up crack to ledge under small roof and traverse right until you pass the loose triangular block (careful here) then head up and over the central part of the roof! Pretty fun moves reasonably strenuous!

The watery grave. If you’re questioning the grade you’re probably climbing it wrong. Lower-off.

The long line down the right hand side of the cliff with a difficult approach. Starts 3m above the swirling sea kelp.

1. 30m 19. The LH line from the belay at sea-level. RH line is grade 20. Finish at Botanical Gardens Ledge.

2. 15m 18. Traverse up and left off the ledge.

3. 25m 19. Up corner to slab then follow cracks (trad) to ledge.

4. 20m 14. Up juggy ramp

5. 25m 17. The Milky Way Pitch

6. 15m 22. Boulder up corner to Deano's Ledge. Some suss bolts can be avoided by climbing corner to the left on gear.

7. 35m 23. Crux. Start at LH end of ledge and climb pocketed face to hand crack.

8. 25m 21. Up crack

9. 10m 8. Scramble to the top.

Up the centre of the main wall, starting about 8m to the left of a deep, dirty corner. First bolt is about 15m up the cliff. There are some suss mild steel bolts on the 3rd and 4th pitches, currently best to rap off after the first 2 pitches.

1. 45m 21, 14 bolts

2. 35m 24, 13 bolts

3. 35m 22, 11 bolts

4. 20m 18, 9 bolts

Start as for 'Spooge Fingers' and traverse right along the the horizontal finger crack to finish up 'In The Beginning...' super fun!

Stand start in middle of slab balancy moves on small holds.

Tricky start up the LH wall to enter the bottomless hand crack, then steep laybacking and jamming to the top and lower-off. Nice climbing but the rock is a little peppery.

Climb 10m up the impressive fist sized split through the cape, to the second set of DBB - clip the left bolt if you want. Step 2m left off the spine into the small crack and follow this to the DBB at the top (please note, this bolt station is not ideal for rapping - use the bolts at the top of Infidel or you risk jamming your rope).

The last technical pitch to lead on your way back from doing Pole Dancer etc. Nice short handcrack down low then the highlight is the 3D chimneying into the bowels of the earth.

Layback sit start, continue laying back until you top out!

Sit start from arete, move left up and out via fingercrack.

A small climb that’s big on flavour. Start up the handcrack, then move up the left trending diagonal crack system until you can climb the superb face and arete above. Good gear, but a little fiddly after the crux at about half height. Anchor set-back from ledge to belay / abseil.

Open Project. This line takes the main blank slab capped by a small roof. Thin holds and balancy movements uk the face lead to a technical crux up high to gain the hidden rail in the roof. Topout directly over the lip.

Chimney and crack 10m from the LH end of the crag.

SDS under ledge and move up using crack and side pulls, dirty top-out between tree and free-standing boulder. V1 if stand start.

Classy climbing. Start in the middle of the face below the undercut and head directly up past the flake and seven bolts to the lower-off. Fully bolted.

the exit route from the Moai platform

Amazing. Start in hand crack just right of main cliff, which trends left leading to a line of bolts. Technical and engaging corner climbing past 6 bolts, then into a finger crack (0.75 camalot), and past a final bolt to the top. Take BD cams 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, 3.

Very thin moves up and over, harder if you're short. Will earn a star once it's been cleaned!

Exit/Entry route

Nice bridging and finger jamming up the wide-angle corner with good protection. Lower-off.

1. 15m Trad. Block hop into the chimney then up it, easy but not much pro, to the DRB.

2. 25m Sport. Fully bolted. Up the arete. 12 bolts plus something to clip the chains. The missing first bolt was recently replaced (Dec 2018)

Climb the easier angled arête immediately to the R of 'Lost Souls'. Start in the diagonal crack about 1m to its right, on less than perfect rock. H.Jackson, May 94.

SDS with fingers low in crack and feet out to the right. Head straight up the crack. Don't use the big ledge!

SDS to left of crack, start inside horizontal crack and straight up.

Sit start from flake and crack, and up via the big sloper.

The direct start to Anchovy Arete. The start is a little bold but is OK with a good spot, stay below ramp using holds in the stepped seam.

1. 10m. Scramble up to the ledge on the NE side of the Moai.

2. 20m. Climb the corner onto the pedestal then up to the bolt. From the bolt move right 1m then up via a flake. Trend rightward to another bolt then straight up. Use the anchors of 'Ancient Astronaught' to belay/rappel (a single 50m rope doubled just makes it down). Take a small selection of small to mid-sized SLCDs.

Note: the first bolt is currently loose, the rap chains seem pretty lightweight.

R.Eberhard, R.Parkyn, Aug/94.

Popular route with a testing initial wall, followed by a dynamic crux. If you make it through all that to the ledge at 3/4 height your doing well. Its in the bag.....isn't it? Fully bolted with a DBB.

Dog-legged hand crack 3m right of Punky Brewster

Closed project, direct extension on Ethereal through the two roofs and technical flared crack on the face. Looks nails.

Thoughtful climbing up the open corner to the lower-off. Excellent small / medium wires and cams. Highly repeatable.

A long pitch of overhanging climbing, starting at the left end of the wave platform seperating tha Paradiso proper from the Aquaphobia Wall. Long reaches between incut holds characterise this line, which has been known to shed the odd piece of rock. Popular warmup for the harder routes, or a greatpitch to work in its own right. DBB.

Another excellent route. Follow the obvious line of bolts up a series of flakes into a shallow corner, finishing with some fun moves to gain the 'wagon wheel' around the right hand side of the arete. Classic.

Sit start with hands on rail and head up over slightly overhanging mantle. Pretty pointless but why not...

Contrived SDS laybacking on the right side of crack avoiding features on the left side of crack.

Starting on the far left of the crag where the ledges peter out, belay in a small undercut and head straight-up through the bulge and the excellent (just right) crack to the top. Lower-off.

Between 'Unzip' and 'Winkle' climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route. G.Phillips, Oct 95.

1. 10m Grade 19, Sport. From high in Col go up and L of the pillar following the line of bolts to DBB.

2. 15m Grade 21, Sport. Continue up the L face/ arête. DBB.

Start as for Sickle Crack and finish up Mantlepiece.

Up the crack and into the compartment, then make your escape by chimneying (crux) and jamming through the roof, finishing up the crack to the top. Anchor set-back from ledge to belay / abseil.

Follow the rising right trending seam across the main slabby face to its end and topout. This line crosses over the Barnacle Buster Project.

Right of TBAG is an initially bolted wall leading to a left trending traditionaly protected crackline that joins OOTF below its final roof. DBB.

Shallow left-facing corner several metres left of the flaring offwidth

Easy up from a standing start, sit start will go at a harder grade. Down climb here to get off the boulder.

SDS from flake below rooflet avoiding putting feet on block below wall, traverse left through thin crack, mantle one you reach the block.

Photogenic & the South Cliff classic. Well-protected climbing up the overhanging finger crack. Sustained moves in the first half, before breaking out right to the good flake. After this, trend left and up to crank through the steep headwall on good holds, finishing up the final corner (save a BD #0.5) at the top. Lower-off.

Classy and sustained climbing, deserves more attention.

Just right of prominent overhang. Up seam to enjoyable climbing using pockets and flakes. now has a single u and hanger to lower off

Stand start on nice underclings and smeared feet, head straight up via thin crimps to slopey lichen covered topout. Probably V3!

A subterranean experience climbing through the crack-line and chimney, just right of the pointy blocky arete. Belay at top and then abseil off using the Smooth Sailing anchor.

Start in the wide crack right of 'High Noon' (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.