Routes in Hobart and surrounds

Sitstart on rail then right around arete on slopes then up. Dont use jugs at top until the finish

Left to right traverse along the lip to finish up 'Vampire Lesbos' or 'Victory In Thebes'

20m down the hill. Sit start with a hand on each arete (if you can reach!) and feet on smears. This problem can either be done by moving to the right arete (which may be slightly easier) or by using both aretes the whole way and toe hooks to help.

looking at the southern wall, the dihedral and arête on the left

SDS. Start on the lower rail, climb to the hole then finish up PR.

The tall overhanging column to the right of Brown Madonna, 60m single pitch route, sustained arete climbing as good as it gets. Take a no.1 camalot to avoid a runout at about 3/4 height. 19 quickdraws plus rap chains

Instead of going up the finger crack on the original route, keep traversing out left until you reach the jug/pocket in the middle of the face, climb directly up from there.

the line further right of Take off

An excellent problem starting on a low hidden rail down and right of the crack. Climb the burly roof rightwards.

Sit start crouched as for Spider Pig, move left and up and out, staying on the left wall - everything on right side is off limits. Low-down, trickier than it looks.

Up the corner just behind the right hand end of main face.

The big left-facing chimney.

1. 52m 16 Up the chimney past hakea and overhang to ledge on right, then up wide crack (#4 camalot useful) to next ledge. This pitch can easily be split in two

2. 25m 16 Up to next ledge then continue up corner to top. Descend trench to left and then rap off as per Battle Cruiser

Sit start up rib and bridge up left corner to top. Don't reach right. Update: rib damaged by bogan fires, not currently climbable.

Further down to the right are the first rocks you encounter when accessing the area. The landing is pretty bad.

Either sit start or link in from the Traverse, harder than it looks.

Start on good hold under bulge, move to lip hold and slopers. Transcend gravity. Stand start goes at about V3/4

SDS

Traverse the lip, higher is easier, lower is harder

Start on the undercling to the right side of the nose, straight up through slopers to the dish on top. Non obvious beta, but not too hard once you figure the trick out.

Dyno from lowest brick pocket

Using only the slab, and avoiding the crack and above at all costs.

Arm spanning slab & blocks at top.

Stand start the slopers and face.

1. 20m

2. 10m

SDS. North Western arete of the bloc

1. Start up Battle Cruiser for 2m, and traverse up and right to belay near Faust.

2. Step back left to belay at base of corner. Can combine with P1.

3. Up the corner through overhangs.

Short steep little climb, follow the cliff line around left past Le grand pere wall and COVID cliffs to reach this route.

the crack right of ITF

Sit start.

Continue on through Spotted Quoll to finish on the top of the boulder. Bonus points for cutting feet with a mantle.

Project - just right of the seam, sit start to big pockets then a big move left to a side pull and straight up (staying out of the seam of Arborist)

The bolted line 3m to the right of Lone Stranger p1.

1. 21m 18 9Þ

2. 35m 24 10Þ

Nice finger crack/ layback up the left hand corner

S0. up via some small and somewhat hidden side pulls & Gaston's.

Great sport climbing on the Hobart side of Johnstones Knob involving both aretes and passing a knife blade to a ledge with rap anchor. Protected by 3 carrots.

The obvious chimney. Most people belay on spacious ledge above the huge chockstone.

Mega off-width pitch, take some big gear.

The obvious open book corner on R of main wall. Layback the cool corner passing two RB’s. Traverse R a bit to rest. Up short steep wall, 3 RB’s to ledge. Avoid the big loose block above and up the crack and wall (gear) on its L side to top. DBB.

Straight up on small holds to finish right of Orang-Utan. DONT USE ANY HOLDS OF ORANG-UTAN

Stand start with left in mono, right in two finger pocket and good left foot, one move up to jug then mantle.

Traverse all of Two Mat from left to right and finish up Thoughtless

A good fingery traverse starts at the two finger pocket about 5m right of the start of PE and continues via pockety moves to SE. When the start of SE is reached, do the first tricky move of SE to reach the horizontal. Do about one move along the horizontal to the right from where your feet can reach the nice footholds on JJ and then get down onto the holds of JJ. There is a nice layaway pointing left and then a shallow pocket. From here continue right past A to finish at the start of PL. The traverse can also be done in reverse. Try and link up both directions if you don't feel the effects of lactic acid. Also there are extensions on either end.

Diagonal line from right to left. Start on 7 finish up 5.

Start on the large sandy jugs and traverse out leftwards on crimps.

Straight up through the middle on reasonable holds.

Start on the rail under the arete. Great climbing from bottom to top rockover. Stand is V2.

SDS. Right edge of short face, 2.5m left of Chicken wings to hell.

SDS. Up steeply on jugs.

Face climb between arete (left) and crack (right).

An extension for both Feckless and Razor. once you reach the top of either Feckless or Razor continue to climb up and over steep bulges before topping out. Is high so bring lots of pads. The grade is an estimate.

Sit start on jug. Straight up.

Take some medium cams for the bottom

1. 26m

2. 22m

3. 12m

The mega roof is straightforward. Getting established on the headwall is not. Take a longer sling for the bolt on the lip. Finish directly up to single U bolt, or traverse right to DBB with WLAE.