Routes in Harvey’s Marbles

Sit-start just right of "Globalisation Left" on the low edge. One of Harvey's hardest problems. See the original guidebook for the starting holds.

An outstanding hard line.

The line up the 45degree wall with a big move to get to lip, easier terrain after. Take lots of pads.

Start on first boulders face to gain the bottom of the boulder sitting above, follow up crack like feature and up. Requires some commitment.

SS on LH flake. Powerful movements.

SS for “High Society”

Hard move on face with slab over the lip keeping it interesting, trends upward right on the slab. Might need to move some pads around. Another great line put up by Andy Lampard.

An inspiring line with powerful moves. Start off the obvious RH ear and the crystallised LH sidepull.

A mega classic! Start just R of "Skippy With a Smile" with your LH on a high pinch and RH on a terrible slopey scoop. Up via small holds and two hard moves. If you jump start to right hand razor and skip the hard static start it's a V8.

Face just right of Morning Glory following tricky gastons for a rounded mantle for top out. Watch your head on the large dead tree.

SS 1m L of ‘High Society” awaits a ropeless ascent. Super low start that traverses in from the L below ledge is an open project.

Starting under overhung dihedral move up and left to the obvious rails, follow right to finish. Beautiful white rock.

Starting low, moving up the underclings. Shoot for the pocket on the right-hand side of the arete, then left and up the arete to finish.

Start with opposing sidepulls, up R to a terrible sloper and blast to the jugs.

Tips, underclings and tiny scoops - hard!

The obvious steep arête with two cruxes, the higher of which is pretty terrifying.

Super classic arête from the low start adds 4 moves (starting position shown in guidebook).

A broken foothold has made this a little harder. Sit start (you may need to crouch if you are too short) off LH pinch and RH crimp. Up via good edges with big moves. Classic.

The steep highball arête on the top L side of the boulder. Up via underclings and slopers to a crux rockover at about half height.

An arete with fantastic body tension.

Lower start to “Rice Bubbles” on side pull and low knob.

Sit-start the left-hand arete of the steepness. Starts with right-hand pinch and left-hand on arete. Up into Global. Two pads used for the sit-start on first ascent.

Add the sit-start, with the lower of the two left-hand sidepulls and a right-hand sidepull barely off the ground, for a tough, thin and sustained problem.

Crimpy sit start with diagonal LH and small RH. Straight up. Hard.

The gently bulging face on the Middle Brother, the shortest of the three boulders. A highball on perfect granite. It starts with steep and powerful moves off a chunky, in-cut flake, followed by a series of vertical cranks on small but positive edges, which guard the crux mantle onto a slopey narrow rail at two-thirds height. Blankness and weirdness above the rail gets you to a thin seam just below the more amenable top-out. It's one of Harvey's aesthetic highball jewels.

On the other side of this boulder from "Epitome of a Man". SS off the block.

Crouched start on obvious crimp. Straight up to slopers and then press L into scoop. Desperate!

Slopey, crimpy and hard. Classic Steve sandbag.

L of “Curved Arête” SS off edge on low boulder.

Technical

Sit start the obvious steep feature. Up into a technical top. Also see El Destructo Stand Start.

Start a little further left on the little crimps and link into Against The Grain. Soft.

Start on the little cairn to reach the seam and up.

Tiny arete from a sit.

The original problem, staring a little higher on the arete. A little easier, perhaps even soft for the grade. (Starting holds shown in the guidebook).

Start straddling the tree and follow the thin, overhanging flake left to a slopey finish. Watch the block that makes the landing awkward.

As for above problem but then move R via some small slopey holds.

The low start of Walk The Line adds about 4 tough moves. Starting holds - RH crimp, low LH undercling.

The low start to The Testicle Mantle. Done with RH on edge and low LH pinch.

Mantles the LH side of the eyeball. Move up the arete till you get your LH on the good crimp, and then a hard move moving L onto the slab.

Face with undercut start 2m L of "The Incred-eye-ball mantle". Start below vague scoop with RH on tiny positive 'ear' and up on thin holds.

LHV of Imported Products. Using a high LH hold, and moving up into the top of Imported Products.

Just R of “Best in Show” Start off bad RH sidepull and high LH edge. Up to obvious cluster of small edges then move L and up.

Sit-start on obvious holds. Straight up to a tough finish.

Eliminate the block for your feet on Sydney Six.

Link “Sly Fly” left into “My Girlfriends Got a New Girlfriend”, via a tough short traverse.

Sit-start to “Sly Boy”. May be a crouched start if you can't reach the holds from the ground. Starts off the small edge and slopey sidepull located together. Up to bad holds and up slab.

Sit-start to “Mr Bastard”. A great problem that's often tried, seldom sent.

Up the middle of the face, short and hard. Previously known as the mono project that Live Lundemo came very close to.

Very tall, proud arête and a magnum opus. Sometimes there are some wasps on the right face, so be careful.

Starting 2m left of "The Good Wife". Follow the line of edges and scoops up to a crux at the top with a cruisy mantle to finish. Mega classic!

Start as for "Bum Crack Sit Start", only go up and across diagonally left to finish up as for "Harry Houdini's Hand Holds", via a tough and thin traverse.

Start as for “Monster of Rock”, only takes the low traverse option after the first few moves. Big sideways move off the huge flake to small edges, then to jug. From jug continue as for “Monster of Rock”.

Sit-start going left to join the start of “Too Many Slopers”. Now contrived and superseded by Alister's beta “Too Many Slopers Direct” but cool enough to include here.

Right-hand side of wall. Up, with a terrible undercling and a small mono to start.

Start in middle of face with low edges, moving up and left to a tough finish. Face was uncovered after a large fire destroyed a tree in front of the face.

That is how much it cost Dan Radford to do the second ascent. Up from edges to slopes and mantle.

Sit-start to screamer. Classic and sustained up a steep arete. The convenient block/flake is not in as a starting hold for the right foot.

Note: The starting left side flake broke April 2024. The climb has since been repeated and remains at the same grade.

Start just to the right of “Timeout”, with both hands using the small roof as an undercling. Pull on and throw up and left for the flake and finish up this.

A reference to the holds rather than a swipe at any particular political preference! Sit-start off the block (or crouched start) into above problem. Starts with low right-hand sidepull. Technical and crimpy.

The high slab on the opposite side of “Fall From Grace”. Work through the low scoop and then up onto a balancy top.

Overhung wall 5 metres to the left of “Porcelain”.

Low crouched start off RH sidepull and little LH sloper. Up and across into Lovely Legs.

Continue "Fall from Grace" left along the slopey lip till you reach the other arete and mantle here.

Jump start to establish, up arete.

Jumping start to the good (LH) and back right to high incuts (The Halfway Problem). Mantle and step left to the arete, finishing up the slab.

Campus problem on the slopey holds. Starts as low as possible.

Steep face starting down low. Broken hold, so now a little harder than the original problem.

Dyno. Bad landing.

Crouched start just right of “Flash Pack”

Good left sidepull, excellent incut crimp for right. Move into and up through the seam until the blob hold, then crank hard up to crimps on the lip.

SS using block for feet and little crimps.

A slopey lip traverse.

R of arete and up above slab via slopey edges and side pulls

Excellent SS.

Use RHS, but go R around corner to finish.

Good moves though a little sharp. From the break, use RH sloping crimp and make big move up to good edges.

Stand start with the frightening drop off behind you! Don't fall off.

SS to “life is Beautiful”