Routes as unknown in Melbourne and Surrounds

Location TBC... Stand start on the obvious jug loaf layaway. Long moves between good edges to gain the big horizontal holds at 4m. Part 2 continues to the top at V8/9, while a Vheavy sit start waits for they who can campus 1-6

Up past hole 2m right of Raisa. Two carrots.

I’ll Stick Around 12m 24 Superb thin face, with a delicate crux. 3FHs (1st and 3rd require small ‘biners)

Absurd. Climb Stiff Upper Lip then climb the right 21 to the big furry break at 6m. Traverse easily right past the 20/21 and the 15s to gain the V3 traverse line as far as the last 21. Up that to finish. Would take some proper rope friggery... so might as well solo it.

A sharp little testpiece that required a lot of effort before the FA fell. 3FHs (the 1st requires a small 'biner). The 3rd clip is desperate and a long pre-placed draw is recommended.

Walk up creek for 300m then 50m uphill to an isolated boulder. Undercut L arete, then R. Two FH's.

Charlie never climbed the steep side. Guess he wanted to leave some for everyone else! This climbs the line leading to the flake dripping down across from #2. Thin.

Up 3m R of BV (BR) then seam.

3m right of ET. Two carrots.

Sit-start (don't use the medium sized mossy block in front of you for your hands or feet) and go out to the nose, up and left to finish with a rock-over using a good foothold out left. Nice moves but loose grains on the surface.

A good introduction to the thin pocketed face climbing featured on this wall. Start as Territorial Pissings (1 FH requires small 'biner) trending right past 2 FHs.

A key hold has been broken from this exposed climb. Up ES until level with the 2nd overhang. Step L into space, past a bolt, and up the bottomless corner, bolt

Vertical seam (FH) then L fork of crack.

Approx 3m right of Emperor's New Rope, up middle of face, using the bolts of Rush Job to the right.

2m right of IC. Two carrots.

A favourite solo by Charlie and Athol. Climbs the boulder start of Compression then traverses out the obvious line to the arete. Probably V2 and a bit high.

Charlie did another line right of #3. Choose your own adventure.

The RH line with 1 carrot. A little shorter and with a better landing than #2.

The line retrobolted with 2 carrots. Highball and awesome.

Line starting off pedestal left end of chasm.

Just north of How I Learned to Stop Worrying is "The Highball Slab." This route takes the left hand side of the slab - there's a big comforting hold at 3/4 height where you can think about the future. Down climbing the entire route from the top of the boulder is not too bad, so that puts things in perspective. No idea who did this - I saw chalk on it in '02, which was what lured me up there. Grade intended to reflect the height. A classic.

The diagonal slab rises in parallel to the gulley its on, so one is still quite close to the ground on the crux. Topping out is high but easy - do note, however, that the way you just came up is also the descent! Jumping from half height takes care of the rest.