Routes as unknown in Victoria

start 5m left of lambs fry, climb past br then along left leading crack for 2m. step acoss to right leading flake and clip BR. foot traverse right to arete then up

Start as for Heaven on a Stick.

1. The hand crack to sling a pinnacle to belay.

2. (crux). Slab past 2BRs

Offers a more sustained conclusion to Lust or Bust. From the FH on Lust or Bust, take the thin right leading diagonal seam to Lust For Life's last FH. Step right again then up.

An outstanding, sustained and varied free climb that challenges the full gamut of granite styles. This is a distinctly more approachable prospect than the other free routes on this end of the wall consisting of generally easier cruxes, fewer run-outs and less small gear. The route follows a logical line of features incorporating sections of the aid routes Knocking on Heavens Door, She, Clouded Queen, Ozymandias and Strange Ritual. Most pitches include a mix of natural gear and bolts. Take a standard rack up to a 3 Camalot including some micro cams, small and medium wires.

1. 27, 35m. Start as for Knockin’ on Heavens Door and Free Reign in right facing corner. Continue up this for roughly 8m then move slightly left and over bulge. Continue up the right facing features above the initial corner until it becomes possible to climb rightward across a sequence of underclings toward more sustained climbing and a mix of bolts and natural gear placements.

2. 27, 50m. Follow the obvious right facing sickle-shaped tips layback until it peters out and leaves you in apparent blankness. Solve the puzzle then continue for 30+ meters up the shallow open scoop with many block holds and carrot bolts.

3. 27, 40m. As for pitch 5 of Free Reign up interesting weakness’s past aid belay and fixed hanger then continue up slab and slightly left over small overlap with powerful, thin climbing past two more fixed hangers. Finally, step right into crack and chunky features that lead to large ledge system on Ozymandias original to belay with two #2 Camalots.

4. 22, 35m. As for pitch 6 of Ozymandias Original. Follow obvious crack to the left and up through steepness to the sloping ledge and triple bolt belay.

5. 27, 50m. Follow the traverse pitch of Ozymandias Original pitch 7 for approximately 5 meters until it becomes possible to climb straight up a series of positive cracks toward the large, steep right facing corner above. Continue up corner until it becomes a roof and it is possible to clip a fixed hanger straight out the roof. Climb past this and over the headwall for the last of the routes' difficult climbing. Enjoy the wild position and hard climbing beneath your feet! Once a large ledge is reached either belay from here to break pitch into two or pick your way through the wide climbing to the top of the cliff.

The curving corner crack on the right of the little crag (known locally as Bum Rock) on the western slopes of Mt Jack northeast of Myrtleford.

R-leading crack 2m R of AMD.

The line retrobolted with 2 carrots. Highball and awesome.

Walk up creek for 300m then 50m uphill to an isolated boulder. Undercut L arete, then R. Two FH's.

Don't bother.

1. 25m. Up Arachnophobia to a ledge at 5m, then up R on dyke and traverse past Schiaparelli to belay below a crack.

2. 25m. Keep traversing

The RH line with 1 carrot. A little shorter and with a better landing than #2.