Routes in Wheatbelt for selected grade

The obvious arching corner on the lower NW face of Ellen Peak. A great line with some nice climbing amid much classic Stirlings choss. Approach by walking along the base of the N face until just before the point at which the N face becomes the NW face (just before the walking track begins heading uphill again). Start climbing on slabs below the pointed prow at approx 30m height, then follow obvious massive right trending arch/corner.

Pitch 1. 40m grade 16: head up slabs aiming for large pointed prow and base of arch/corner system. When ledge at the base of the prow is reached (after approx 30m), head up corner on the L of prow. Belay on large ledge on top of boulder.

Pitch 2. 35m grade 17 (crux): head straight up corner for 5-10m, then into wide, overhanging squeeze, being careful of rotten rock (it looked possible, perhaps preferable, to avoid the squeeze by traversing R under overhang at the base of squeeze, but we stuck to the obvious line). Continue following the line and belay on one of many ledges.

Pitch 3: 35m grade 16: airy traversing under the arch, along a ledge system until the point at which the arch ends and a gully is reached. Belay here.

Pitch 4: 30m grade 12: follow your nose straight up the L side of gully. Belay at the end of the technical climbing.

Then scramble to the summit.

F.A. Owen Davis and Nick Hobson, 7 May 2006

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-route-on-ellen-peak/

The featureless buttress on the eastern end of the western crag. Start about 20m right of access gully below tourist track. The start follows a low angle shallow left hand corner, a few metres tot eh right of a light coloured smooth wall at base of cliff.

An absolute classic! An arching right hand corner that fades into some improbable looking overhangs. Start 10m left of Smiths Last Stand.

(1) 30m 16: Up the corner crack for 25m past several ledges until the first roof, then a delicate 5m traverse right to belay on the corner of a large ledge (this extends across to Smiths Last Stand).

(2) 25m 16: From the corner, up 2m to the top of the corner, then traverse 20m left across the lip of the wall beneath the second roof until just past the corner. Belay next to large block beneath overhang. "Grade 14 technically, with 2 grades added for psyche value". (3) 5m 8: Easy climb to top.

Historically, the most elusive climb in the Stirlings. Pleasant and airy if "The Nose" is climbed direct. Possibly the finest pitch on Bluff Knoll! Grade 10 if nose is avoided

Start as Hell Fire Gully for first 5 pitches. At pitch 6, follow the continuation of the gully up, instead of traversing left for HFG. Tips, detailed access and route descriptions here: https://tinyurl.com/yacsaz6d

Up Hell Fire Gully to where HFG traverses left. On pitch 6, take a more direct route to Devils Nose, and for pitch 7, stay out of gully.

Pitches 1-4, as for HFG Pitch 5, as for DN Pitch 6 35m (17): Up and left for 2m to another ledge. 3m left and then back right on a rising diagonal to a bottomless corner 15m above belay. Continue up gully above. Belay in rocky alcove deep inside gully. Pitch 7 30m 17: Exit alcove to the right and climb up two overhangs. Stay out of gullies and vegetation all the way. This is a very juggy and enjoyable pitch. Tips, detailed access and route descriptions here: https://tinyurl.com/yacsaz6d

Starts 25m left of Hell Fire Gully. Conditions should be perfect, with an extremely early start (dawn at base of the climb!) before this route is attempted or benightment is very likely. Good luck

Same as Bols to You, except starts about 60m left of Hell Fire Gully.

A failed attempt to scale the overhangs in the centre of the Face above grey slab. The climb, however, weaves through some impressive country, including the crux of Coercion. Allow 10 hours from car park.

A serious, but nonetheless an excellent climb for an experienced party. The route was sought out by Adams and Fowler, who made two attempts in 1970 and 1971 and established the start. Adams and Barnes then pushed the route through the 'Grey Slabs'. The climb was finally finished by Adams, Hensen and Lumsdaine in 1972 in "perfect conditions - desirable for all ascents".

2 ring bolts at the bottom then trending right up crack near arete. Takes gear all the way including anchor. Lots of loose rock.

See WA Rock

A scary and loose start but great moves on the second pitch. Start 6m L of F.M.C., at small dead tree.

(1) (35m, 15) Directly up for 20m, then trending L for 15m to belay at the R edge of a huge loose block below the orange overhangs. Large cams required for belay (#2 or #3 Camalot size).

(2) (15m, 17) Up for 2m R of block, then traverse R for 4m, then 1m up, then traverse back left along a good horizontal crack in a superbly exposed position. Pull up through overhangs and continue to walk-off ledge. This route requires many cams, from very small to medium, plus 2 large ones for first belay

Climb jam crack which is the most leftward feature of the crag. Better than it looks from ground level.

Climb right trending ramp-like crack to small book end and up the face.

Right of Yes, We Haffner Bananas. Start in the middle of smooth slabby face, into cave and exiting through highest point of roof.

2 metres right of Voluptuous. Up big pockets and then slabby face.

Belay at the base of the Constipation Corner crack (not at the base of the mossy slab below).

1. 50m (16) Climb Constipation Corner for 15m. Where the crack finishes, move R over slab, R of large bush. Trend R up slab to gain L facing corner. Up wall L of this, then L across blank face to belay at cave.

2. 20m (17) Directly up through overlap, then up R groove. Belay 3m below next large roof.

3. 50m (15) Turn roof on L, then climb wall L of the crack above for 10m. After the crack finishes, climb 35m of slab, trending R all the way. Belay at small vertical crack. Scramble off.

1. Shares first pitch with Last Tango in Widgiemooltha.

2. 20m. Traverse across right wall of corner to left trending crack on wall. Up this to belay above roof (crux).

3. 40m. Traverse left and ascend second crack, about fist width. Continue over two overhangs, then trend right to belay.

4. Scramble to finish.

Traverses across the main slab to give access to the upper pitches of Californication. Starts 5 metres left of Homeward Bound at base of cracks, below a large block.

1. 30m (15) Take the crack system to the large block that forms the first belay of Homeward Bound.

2. 45m (14) Climb slab, trending to the right to a large boulder on a ledge at about 35 metres. Traverse right to belay at left end of large vegetated ledge.

3. 25m Walk right along vegetated ledge to end of vegetation.

4. 30m (17) Move right and climb steep slabs to the large overlap system using a bolt runner from Californication.

5. 35m (16) Undercling the overlaps to the final corner and traverse left to belay at end of overlaps.

6. 60m (9) Up corner and slabs to small ampitheatre.

Start 50m L of the Conquistador climbs at orange slab, marked with cairn.

1. 55m (10) Follow slab directly up, then diagonally L, then back R across face to belay below small block.

2. 45m (12) Up block and through bulge, using holes for protection.

3. 45m (14) Up face to the top of black slab, then continue up wall 6m L of the gully/chimney of C.O.T.U. Belay at flake 3m below L facing corner crack.

4. 45m (17) Up L facing corner/crack to its top. There is a bolt with a fixed hanger on the face 3m to L (origin unknown). Ignore this and continue directly up through bulge on good holds (crux), with plenty of gear. Belay 15m above crux in large cavern.

5. 55m (8) Exit cavern on R and easily up to huge ledge below amphitheatre.

6. 55m (8) Up face L of gully on L side of amphitheatre, L of all the mossy rock.

7. Walk 60m to summit.

This route takes the black wall L of Conquistadors of the Useless to reach a steep wall R of the COTU gully. Start 25 m L of COTU, at the L end of a low overlap - marked by a cairn. The rock is generally solid and far better than for routes further R. Protection is on medium nuts and cams, however sparse at times.

1. 50m (10) Directly up the black slab to reach a broad sloping ledge. Belay at small overlap at the back of ledge, below blank wall.

2. 30m (12) Traverse L for 10 m to reach top of detached block. Continue further L to reach protectable terrain, then 18 metres up to belay.

3. 50m (13R) Continue directly up on sparse pro to gain the C.O.T.U crack at blocks.

4. 30m (17R) On the R side of the gully and directly above the belay should be a steep wall. Climb up the L-facing corner at the R end of this wall. There is an overlap at 8m height. Turn this on R and then continue directly up a short blank section (crux) to reach easier ground.

5. 50m (10) Continue up until angle eases.

Named so because it bucketed down during the first ascent. Starts in the gully some 5 metres right of Conquistadors of the Useless, on the wall left of the Karakoram Gully. The climb follows an obvious direct gully/crack line up to the left edge of a striking triple-tiered roof. A scenic outing with a great pitch III, albeit generally slow going due to loose rock in places.

1. 40m (15) Up gully for 20m to ledge with bush. Climb on the wall just right of the gully for next 20m, to belay right of and level with the top of the gully, just below a small roof/corner.

2. 50m (12) Traverse 3 metres left, then up another crack/gully which has massive lose blocks in it. Head for the lowest roof in the 3-step roof system above, belay at the roof.

3. 35m (17) Up right of 1st roof, right of 2nd roof, then traverse right below 3rd roof. Airy bridge right across gap about 5m below and right of the 3rd roof, then directly up to belay on wide terrace.

4. 40m (6) Continue in a direct line for the summit, staying roped until the angle eases at niche. Scramble for another 80 metres to reach the summit.

Alternatively from top of pitch III abseil down Central Gully or lead- downclimb wall (10) left of Karakoram Gully.

”Big wall” fun. Start 25 metres right of Riders On the Storm. Scramble 5m up to gain a small ledge that is 3 metres below a large block forming a left-rising overlap.

1. 50m (14) Up past left edge of block, up crack with bush (bypass bush to right), then directly up crack above. Scramble between two large bushes and up deep gully behind them. Belay at the base of twin cracks (1 metre apart) at the end of gully, just right of large guano streaks.

2. 50m (16) Up twin cracks for 8m. When the left crack ends traverse right onto detached flake and up it. Directly up black slab just right of prominent gully/corner, aiming for the cave/roof above. Belay left of it.

3. 40m (17) Just left of cave is a shallow corner split by a 5 metre finger crack. Some strenuous moves lead up this (crux), then slightly right and directly up until wide terrace.

Descend as per Riders On the Storm.

At the right hand end a black streak comes out of the base of a right trending crack. Climb this.

See Mini-guide: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/2014-Gibraltor-Rock-New-Routes-1-Warning.pdf

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-routes-gibraltar-rock/

Imagine what it was like without the bolt! (i) 30m - As for Illusion of Grandeur (ii) 45 - 13: Towards the overlap for 2q5m to good runner. Go left over flakes towards 4 caves. Bolt belay in 3rd cave (from left) (iii) 40m - 17: Past the 4th cave and continue to water runnel corner. Follow to bushy ledge to ledge belay with a small tree. (iv) 35m - 12: Back to runnel and head straight up to belay on blocks (v) 45m - 11: Head towards the small wall at top and belay in crack below wall

About 30m right of Illusions of Grandeur there is a sharp gully. The climb takes the slab wall on the left of this gully, to the first bolt belay. Then head straight up to the summit in three easier pitches. 2nd pitch has 3 bolted runners and bolt belay. R&R Master

Rap down 3 pitches from belay hangers at the top of Marmabup Rock, or climb it as a variant of Rehearsing the Fate of Absalom (after pitch 2).

It’s amazing what you can accomplish living on stolen condiments. Rap in, climb out, plaisir slab sport climbing consumer combo. Leave your hexes at home. Find your way to the top of Marmabup Rock and locate a double hanger belay on the southish side towards the top of RTFOA. Abseil 50m down past the hanger brail trail to a double bolt belay at the top of pitch 2. Rap 30m down from here past more bolts with your eyes closed to preserve the onsight. Stop at the double bolt belay at the top of Pitch 1 and then rap the final 25m to a bolt belay on some big blocks and a sort of cleft thing. This is nowhere near the ground. RTFOA classic corner pitch is just to the climbers left. You could climb that route from the ground if you want, then join up with this one. Fun times. A fun, modern bolted, sport slab climb.

1. Scamper up past 8 fixed hangers (FH) to DBB. Grade 17. Nut-craft not required, unless you’re a squirrel.

2. Grade 17. 11FH and 30m of crunchy 1200million year old precambrian granite slab (no, that’s not a type of cheese). Clip smear clip clip smear smear. Cleans up better than Barrington quarry and no bogans.

3. Make sure you are on the pointy end for the glory summit pitch. The crux is not tripping on the bolts as you romp home. 7FH, grade 15.

Bolted for standard Porongurup conditions. i.e light drizzle, considerable apathy and a niggling southerly. Can’t believe the Boya Boys missed this one.

The righthand off-width crack. Massive runout chimneying to offwidth. Needs big gear

Start at the northern end of the east face. Climb the slab with two BR then bog on up the crack and wall above.

Start 4m R of The Spear. Some bulges half way up provide the entertainment. Sustained and absorbing, with 8 GIMBs.

Place small cams in bottom flake

Sit start left on up into high left gaston before transitioning left and up to finish with easy topout.

Start on horn (try no to dab on surrounding rocks) straight up arete. Beware the flake at the topout feels like it might break.

Start low on far right below arete. Stay lowing low along rails to good layback crimps then up to left edge and topout, best done like a beached whale.

Start as with Lonely Whale Low but stay one arete using rails for feet the top out as an awkward whale.

Head up left arete using rails to sloped topout.

Big leanback jugs, cross into a pair of crimps then many flakes to topout. Beware some flakes on the right may come loose so stay left if possible.

Stand start on crimps straight up on jugs.

Crumbly compression start bumping left until cross over with right to finish jug, topout not included.

Start on lower rail then straight up.

Sit start left move right into crack then straight up

Sit start left as another mediocre boulder stay low continue right until center then big move to right side pull and up to finish.

Needs cleaning / bolting. Open project.

Needs cleaning, and maybe a bolt to protect the start.

Use cairn to get high left foot, climb slab up to good holds on the left, then cruise up the spine to finish. Three bolts to 1BB.

Up left trending crack with small cams, onto big ledge, then up face on one bolt to 2BB.

Up right trending crack with small cams, onto big ledge, then up face on one bolt to 2BB.