Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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21 | |||||||||
21 | ★★★ Stiletto | 90m, 11 | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Stiletto | 90m, 11 | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | 2007 | ||||
Should be 21
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21 | ★★★ Stiletto | 90m, 11 | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Sep 2013 | ||||
P1 - Clean 2nd; P2 & P3 (linked) - Onsight. Much better than Day of the Long Knives. Pitch 1 is a sustained endurance test piece, with two distinct crux moves that keeps you fighting to the belay 45m off the deck. Technical and demanding. Pitch 2 is bold at the grade, with two hard moves a long way above the gear, and spaced bolts in-between. I linked it into Pitch 3 (the top 20m of Scimitar) necessitating challenging 2-rope management to avoid drag from the 15m traverse in the middle. Great!
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21 | ★★★ Stiletto | 90m, 11 | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Tue 15th Sep 2020 | ||||
Classic! First pitch off the ledge superb and well protected. (I used 11 BRs and one 1 no 1. camalot) Second pitch a tiny bit easier but quite scary. Cams down low, and 4(?) BRs. Last pitch joins Scimitar.
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21 | ★★★ Stiletto | 90m, 11 | Wolgan Valley | Fri 1st Jan 2010 | |||||
Did this a long time ago, recall it being stout for the grade.
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20 | |||||||||
20 | ★★ The Day of the Long Knives | 92m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 4th Mar 2000 | |||||
with Cate
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20 | ★★ The Day of the Long Knives | 92m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Feb 2008 | ||||
Led all. Sustained good climbing. Not much broke off. Classic Wade route.
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20 | ★★ The Day of the Long Knives | 92m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Feb 2008 | ||||
20 | ★★ The Day of the Long Knives | 92m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Sep 2013 | ||||
With Gene. P1 - Onsight, P2 - Clean 2nd. P3 - Onsight. P4 - Clean 2nd. Predictable climbing (lots of small ironstone edges) but generally quite sustained and in an awesomely exposed location. Some bad rock, but we didn't break off much. Tricky route-finding with the other nearby routes (eg. central direct) which necessitated a re-belay when I ended up at the wrong belay. Pitch 2 has the hardest single move of the route, but P3 is quite sustained thinness. Classic in an old-school vein.
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20 | ★★ The Day of the Long Knives | 92m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 8th Jul 2017 | |||||
20 | ★★ Uprising | 110m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 25th Nov 2017 | |||||
20 | ★★ Uprising | 110m | Wolgan Valley | Average | Sun 1st Apr 2018 | ||||
Good position and some good climbing. But poor rock in some places, with potential for catastrophic consequences if there were a bolt failure, mean I wouldn’t recommend this climb. For example the first aid bolt on P1 is close to the lip of a chossy sandy roof. If it failed you’d hit the deck from 15m.
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19 | |||||||||
19 | ★★ Dirk | 50m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 1st Oct 2005 | |||||
18 | |||||||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Wed 29th Dec 2004 | ||||
The chimney - the chimney! After trying to stem the outside, there's one less foothold, and one more scar on my ankle... ouch! Luckily, the gear is solid...
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | 2002 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Dec 2000 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | 2007 | ||||
Lead p2 + 4
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 5th Mar 2000 | |||||
with Cate
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18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 29th Dec 2004 | ||||
direct start 18?
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18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st May 2004 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Sun 1st Apr 2001 | |||||
with Dave Filan
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18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | 1995 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Tue 8th Apr 2003 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 20th May 2003 | ||||
me (1,2) w/ CM (3,4) & DD
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 1st Mar 2009 | ||||
awesome
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 23rd Dec 2002 | ||||
best route I have ever done!!
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 28th Nov 2009 | ||||
Led P1 and P2 (crux). Carl P3 and P4..
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Dec 1998 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Feb 2000 | ||||
With Hethos
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 26th Feb 2011 | ||||
Second trip up this brillant route. Led P1and2 as one pitch, led P4. Rick led P3. Climbed Secret Swinger on lower cliff.
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 17th Apr 2011 | ||||
Superb climbing. Good pro, sustained. P2 is one of the best pitches of climbing around. I led pitches 1,2 and 4.
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 30th Nov 2011 | ||||
Candidate for the best long trad route in the blueys. Minimal choss, great position, great gear.
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Dec 2010 | ||||
12 December 2010.
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18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Mar 2013 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 1st Nov 2012 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct - with Marcus and Boydo | 110m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 1st Sep 2014 | ||||
I rebolted this in '07 but this was the first time I climbed it. Its a total classic ! P3 is super. Double ropes were good.
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Carrie | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Oct 2014 | ||||
Excellent and diverse climbing.
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Paul | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 25th Oct 2014 | ||||
Great crack, loved every bit of it.
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Oct 2015 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Eamon Colley | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 2nd Nov 2015 | ||||
Best route I've done in NSW so far. Awesome climbing the whole way, linked it up with Room to Move (16) on the lower tier and some 'bush-rock' climbing' up to the base of Scimitar. Great views and excellent climbing.
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Alastair McDowell | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Nov 2015 | ||||
First multi-pitch seconding. Great route!
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★ Good | Tue 16th Feb 2016 | ||||
Pitch 1/2 OS, Pitch 3 - 2nd Clean, Pitch 4 - OS. Didn't live up to the hype though still great climbing up an impressive line.
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18 |
★★★ Scimitar
- with
Azhar
1
lead by
Nik
2
lead by
Az
3
lead by
Nik
4
lead by
Az
| 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 10th Oct 2016 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Wed 12th Oct 2016 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Chris bull | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 5th Jan 2017 | ||||
chris linked pitches 1+2, 3+4.
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Fri 21st Apr 2017 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 8th Jul 2017 | |||||
20 18 | ★★★ Central Direct - with Andrew Stevenson | 110m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Sep 2017 | ||||
We had an interesting time on this climb.
P1 felt very hard for 18 (probably closer to 20) especially the moves around the diagonal left leaning ledge. We belayed from the same anchors as you use for the rap descent. P2 looked quite hard up to the first bolt which was about 5m off the belay, managed to put gear in the break and fiddle some interesting gear into a hole before getting to the bolt. There was a fair run out to the next bolt which I didn't see until it was right in front of my face and then I could see no more bolts. I moved up carefully and still didn't see any more bolts or gear so decided to head up what looked like an easy looking ramp to a crack/corner where I hoped there would be gear. Luckly I found some which was nice because I was about 12m run out at this point. I climbed the arete of the corner and turned the small roof before making it to the left hand side of the large cave where I set up a belay with the minimal gear that I had left (only took a small amount as I was expecting bolts). At this point we had a read of the guide and figured that we were at the top of pitch 3 and had somehow skipped a whole pitch. Last pitch was pretty much as described, traversing out of the sandy cave and crimping on sandy ledges was not fun but we made it to the top in one piece. A great adventure climb up a sea of rock, just don't come expecting a grade 18 sport climb, think grade 20 trad climb with thought provoking run outs and you will be fine (we found a couple more bolts that we missed on rap but they were fairly hidden). |
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18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Sep 2017 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 24th Sep 2017 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Alastair McDowell | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 3rd Oct 2017 | ||||
super interesting climb - had very thing from jams to face climbing, overhangs and chimneys. Felt much easier than the Ghoul.
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Peter Webster | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 21st Apr 2018 | |||||
Amazing route!
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Lachlan | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Apr 2018 | ||||
Did in 2 pitches, great day!
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Mitch | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Mon 23rd Apr 2018 | |||||
epic!
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Donald Gibson, Roman, Mitch | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 27th May 2018 | ||||
so good!
leading out through the roofs had some awesome moves including a blind over/behind the head fist jam to get back on the face! continued crack and chimney climbing on great rock to make it an awesome day
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Tim Osborne, Roman, Mitch | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 29th May 2018 | ||||
What a classic! Swung leads with Tim. Finished and abseiled off in the dark. ‘Interesting’ proposition, especially with four of us one the two-bolt anchor in the middle of the face.
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 6th Oct 2018 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Richard | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 18th Jan 2019 | ||||
Mega line, Mega exposure I felt it was spot on at the grade a must do for aspiring trad leaders. 9 hrs car to car.
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Fri 12th Sep 2014 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 20th Aug 2019 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | Tue 20th Aug 2019 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 24th Nov 2019 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 28th Oct 2019 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th May 2016 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Fri 10th Jul 2020 | |||||
18 |
★★★ Central Direct
1
18
108m
2
3
4
| 110m | Wolgan Valley | Mon 31st Aug 2020 | |||||
Linked p2+3.
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Anna, anna | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 14th Sep 2020 | ||||
Soooooo good. A lady ascent!
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Lorraine | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Mon 14th Sep 2020 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Central Direct | 110m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Aug 2020 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Tim M-S | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th Oct 2020 | ||||
Superb line. Too many gear placement opportunities. The best nut placements in the whole region.
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with lew | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Classic | Thu 22nd Oct 2020 | ||||
Exposed jug run. Idk where it gets the grade. Good fun, lead in two pitches
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Dave Burt | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Nov 2020 | ||||
Lots more face holds and more 3D climbing than I expected. We climbed it in two pitches
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with Jacob Stone | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 9th Nov 2020 | ||||
Excellent climbing with some of the best exposure in the valley. Did in 2 pitches which worked well and sped things up
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18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Fri 20th Nov 2020 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar | 91m | Wolgan Valley | Sat 3rd Oct 2020 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Scimitar - with pat | 91m | Wolgan Valley | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 5th Dec 2020 | ||||
Superb.
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