Routes as boulder in Mount Keira

BOULDER PROBLEM. Follows the thin crack in the first section of the West Face. Follow the crack till it runs out then layback to glory! (don't pike right).

Dyno - grab jug rail at head height, smear feet and launch for hueco, top out. Maybe a bit harder for people under 6ft. Essentially climbs the wall left of GD without using the obvious holds on the routes either side.

Initialled. Climb the flake.

An improbable overhanging red wall. No protection.

Face left of DSOTT.

On the wall immediately to the right of The Arete By The Left Hand Side. Very thin up wall to the top.

Arete between Intrepid and Golden Years. Very good boulder problem.

Initialled. Up right to join BSOTB.

A low traverse of the west face starting in the corner and finishing on the block right of Intrepid. You can climb just above the ledge between Zatidee and Gumtree Wall but its nicer just to walk this bit. Gets a little high off the ground in places, due mostly to the massive amount of soil erosion that's taken place in the last 40 years.

14m Boulder problem. The arete left of HFBI.

West face graffiti boulder. Located above main west face climbs. Such a obvious, superb line. Surely this has been climbed. Start just right of choss. Sit start, left hand in little low pocket. Right in perfect side pull pinch. Top out right of corroded water line

Sit start middle of wall. Left hand dimple pinch/side-pull (bowling ball hold), right hand finger pocket. Straight up and delicate top out left of middle bulge

Far right side sit start. Start with either 2 side pulls in the lower crack section or left hand out on crimp. Get those starting feet dialed! Straight up and top out at plant

Sit start on the big jug

Sit start. Trending left up the vague arête

Sit start on the two underclings. Then up through sloppers to a tricky mantle

Start at same holds as 'Nitro Wall Leftside' (V5), then climb left along until you reach happy gas and finish up this.

Sit start on the arete. Up the lip to top out same as the next problem.

Sit start from big hueco/mega pocket, move left and up, top out.

Goes straight up the middle of the overhanging wall and tops out. Tough mantle. Sit start, from big hueco/pocket, move up the face to the lip, mantle and top out. The key is doing a pop move from the pocket/crimp to the side pull and get a toe cam in the big hueco.Spotter advised for topping as a fall from here will see you tumble down the hill.

Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move up via small pocket and crimp to match the lip. Committing move out left and up to mantle.

Potentially already F.Aed in the late 90's

As seen on "Comin At Ya Hyper" - climbing vid of the late 90's. Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move right via small pockets (chipped) up the face/arete until you gain to micro crimps, feet up and funky mantle. Fingers of steel required!

Starting on the deep pocket just left of the right-arete, embark on a long traverse through a variety of cool crimps, slots and jugs before topping out with big moves on jugs at the far left end of the bloc. (this can be climbed as a line in its own right, The Altar of Lamentation, v0)

Although this is an obvious problem on an obvious section of rock, no information was recorded. The FA details are lost to the stoneage climbers who never bothered to tell anyone.

The problem follows the righthand side of the arete from a sit start to a highball topout. Sit start with your feet in the large hueco at ground level, hands on the positive edge. Make your way up the righthand side of the arete to the airy scary launch for the lip.

Practising the moves on top rope is possible using the carrots handily placed right on the top.

Dylan Hill

Head up the major descent gully before Nitro Wall area (heading north). At the path at the top of the gully head left for about 15 metres, you should find yourself on top of a wide, orange-streaked bloc. Head around to the left of that bloc to get to the bottom of it.

On the holds right of Sinn Fein

Sit start right of the arete on jug slot and small left-hand crimp. Power through some big moves on crimps trending right before a difficult mantle on slopers and delicate top-out.

Note: the starting left hand crimp has been lost to a fat boulderer. The start must use either the higher better left hand sidepull (easier) or go without a left handhold and use the original right hand (much harder).

Start in the middle of the ledge as for Mr. Marsupial, and head straight up on crimps, to an easy mantle to top out directly above the start.

Matched start on the left-most jug, then traverse right with sparse feet to the crack and head straight up to top out as for TBOC.

Do Mr. Marsupial, but instead of topping out as for the V1, traverse the entire upper slab of the book boulder to top out as for TBBOE.

Sit start on obvious jug, then move up and left to a slopey top out.

Sit start on the obvious two jugs as for Keira Sutra, and head straight up the funky crack to top out directly above starting holds. Feels very hard until you get the right beta.

Start matched in the large hole/jug, and head straight up the crack.

Sit start on jugs as for Keira Sutra, then head up and trend right to top out about 1.5 metres right of Book of Cracks.

Start sitting at the obvious jugs on the LHS, move across the lip utilising various underclings in the roof to summit via the Big Book LHV. Funky, interesting and unlike anything else in the area that I know of!

Start with left hand in nice undercling in roof and right on a decent pinch. Kick right foot up into the jug and you are away, head left to good 2 finger pocket/sloper at the lip and then mantle.

Heinous line of crimps to mantle the face. Start at jug as for TBBBOE

Instead of moving right hand to the lip, go with the left to a shallow pocket then RH bumps up to the good edge and mantle.

Start on the rhs of the boulder at a big obvious jug. Move onto the roof jugs, go right hand to the lip, then move up to the good edge via slopers and mantle...

Start at the jug as for TBBOE, but instead of reaching for roof jugs move right around the lip via good (but sharp) crimps, mantle and top out as for TBBOE.

Start at the same jug as "the big book of slabs", then follow the crimp sequence around the lip and up onto the slab. Split from the "the big book of slabs" by moving right, away from the arete, to then mantle and top out.

Start low, hugging the boulder with left and right arete, use the arete on either side to progress. Trend left using crimps and slopers to top.

To start, match on the deep hold to the left of the boulder and bump right hand to the upper slit. keep traversing to the far side. Top out through the side of the boulder via the holds at the side and the top. Mind the footwork at the start, very cramped but fun.

Start wherever feels comfortable on the rails below, left foot jam into the hole, right foot on the lower rail. Span left hand up to the crimp, palm the start hold and move up through the crimps to the top out.

Start matched on obvious right rail, move to left crimp and top.

Start matched as for 'Fish Cake', big move out to right crimp and then top out.

Sit start on pockets, slap out left to slopers and then up and over with small crimp.

Sit start on with RH on nice pocket, LH crimp, move straight up the undercling flake with some sick moves to a suprisingly easy top out. Be careful of the razor sharp pebbles!

The hard Arête project to the right of Split Tip. Maybe V9-10?

Traverse high line from Ganglion to No 1 Crack.

Further still around. Nice slight ramp with delicate features. Don't use the chimney.

A very short climb with potential to lengthen and upgrade. Start low on the jug with a foot up on the underside of the overhang, complete a few moves to match on the tiny ledge feature.

Start matched on the big jug on the right then move up left to the ledge, work across to the left then top out. !!Don't use the rock slab that protrudes out just above the start holds, it is loose and could easily fall.!!

Straight up small crimps, big move to finish.

Sit start on the arete. Head up the arete. Originally a crouch start but goes as a sit start at the same grade.

Starting at the left arete as per Jungle cat traverse along the rail to the right before exiting up the right arete as per climb #4 (the V2)

Stand start on crimp rail, up and left to sidepull then top.

Stand start on crimps, straight up the wall left of the flake.

Stand start on the flake, head straight up without using any of the chips/cuttings.

The right arete from a crouch.

Sit Start into big move to the left side pull. Up to sloper and over.

Sit Start with big pockets/edges for hands. Head Right to arete then up and left to manky mossy mantle.

Sit start on left arete and crimp. Power right and traverse the sloper lip to mantle at the peak. Very little foot holds.

Sit start as far right as possible. Shuffle up the sloper arete and mantle.

Slab around to the right of Barb. Climb left side of slab following vague line of holds. Downclimb route.

Climb Right side of slab. Downclimb route.

Start on very left hand side of face behind tree. Climb up trending right to top. Downclimb route.

Up left side of very featured wall around to the right of Right Slab. Downclimb route.

Climb straight up the middle of this featured face. Downclimb route.

Start on right side of this face and traverse left along lip all the way to the top. Downclimb this or any other route.

Traverse face with feet about the head-height of someone standing on ground.

Start of the 'Middle Boulder' Start low, go for the lower ledge, then use the arete for pulling up.

Start low at Pull-kun, traverse left into Pullman, then join into Hail to the crimp.

Sit start as for 'Pull-kun', traverse left along the obvious horizontal crack using holds along and around, then finishing up 'Hail to the crimp'. Mega-jugs near the top of the boulder are out, as are the large face-pockets right of the final flake.

Sit start at low crimp in the middle of the wall. Big move right to gain the crimpy ear, then join Pull-kun.

Start left hand at the small picket then follow up for some solid pulling action.

Bum is the last thing to leave the ground. Climb into Pullman and follow to top.

Start left hand at the side pull inside of the circle feature and right hand on the undercrimp, then straight to the crimp crack, follow crimp crack to the left and top out. Besides the starting undercrimp, the holds on and to the right of the large flake feature that runs up the Boulder are eliminated.

Start around the undercrimp, move up to a couple more small holds, then up to the ledge to top out.

Match start in the undercling. Big move out right before topping out as per hail to the crimp.

Pull the arete, with right hand crimps, don't use the rock pile.

Up the easier side of the arete to top out

Straight up the slab with no arete. Left of Echo Corner.

Around the backside of the 'Middle Boulder' Start left hand low on the arete and right hand on the crimp rail. Follow the crimp rail along and around without using the top ledge. Adjust difficulty as required with your feet.

(East side) on the left-side, start matched on the ledge 1.5m above the ground next to the tree branch. Use the decent ledges to move up to a slopey top-out directly above.

(East side) In the middle of the boulder, start with right hand on decent horizontal ledge and left hand on good side-pull next to it. Find the ok foot and move up through the ledges and out right a little to the decent juggy ledge at the top to mantle

Start matched as per The Vineland. Move right through a series of decent ledges to top out as per Tippy Toes

Start as per Tippy Toes, move left through decent ledges to slopey top-out as per The Vineland

Cramped Sit Start as for Headstone to lip then head left to awkward mantle trying not to dab or fall onto boulder just behind you.

At the 'West Boulder' Up to the lip then follow the ledge right then up. Mind the tree!

Sit start directly next to tree, straight up, finish same as other climbs

Start at the lowest pocket crimps, straight up and out.

Start lower pockets and head up leftwards and out.

Sit start similar to Foxy Knoxy, then up to the right along the arete, finishing with the rest of the climbs.

Sit start with left hand in large pocket and right hand in great low pocket, awkward feet. Pull off the ground and throw to the arete, then continue up to top out over the boulder.

Sit start with left hand on the sidepull and right hand in the obvious pocket, move up to a slopey left hand pocket and then adjust feet to go into the crescent shaped pocket with either left or right hand, then pull up to a slopey topout.