Ascents in Inntal having Beta

Nur Einstieg dann auf Via Agela gewechselt

Climbed it for warm-up today. This time a proper redpoint with putting in all the quickdraws. At the anchor, I was extremely pumped and had to wait two minutes for my arms to relax.

The conditions were much better than expected - in fact, maybe the best conditions we've had in Sparchen. Despite the rain on the previous days, most of the routes were dry, humidity wasn't too high and the temperature was perfect for climbing. I could hold the small polished crimps better than last time and climbed the crux from the ground on my third try. I had underestimated the upper part a bit and was extremely pumped by the time I reached the anchor, but I did not fall, luckily.

Gefährlich, speckig aber wunderschön!

Eher hart

Polished and slippery holds, specially for feet.

Poliert

3er Seilschaft

Speckig

Sandig

Finally sent it.

Very nice route on small crimps, apart from the section from the third to fourth bolt not even that hard. I onsighted the part up to the third bolt immediately below the crux, could not climb the crux, and then climbed the upper part with one rest. On my second try, it was hotter, my skin was thinner and I just slipped off the holds, so I decided to stop trying. The first bolt is very high, though. The climbing was also not so hard, but it definitely felt a bit uncomfortable.

• 1. SL und 4. + 5. SL zusammenlegen.

Nice line. Lots of kneebars. Weird and pumpy finish.

Nice route, stupid name. 7c/+, top boulder over right, no preclip. I agree, going over left would be nicer but i'll reserve eliminating holds and other shenanigans for gym climbing.

In der ersten Länge nicht zu weit Links in die Coronaparty abbiegen

7c+/8a. First redpoint try. Hard to find beta, but once you've found it, it's easy. Used 4 kneebars. Cool line.

Einstieg über Tollwood

Einstieg über Tollwood

Sun straight to the eye from the left. Had to hang in rope to inspect the holds.

Viel Seilreibung. Ablassen und Exen aushängen etwas komisch

Sehr abgeschmiert

Only to the anchor at the ledge because climber's were on the routes to the left that are crossed by this route.

Very nice route, but unfortunately very polished.

3rd go. Felt really hard. With kneepad.

Beim Bauch gehangen

Nur Ausstieg

Nur Einstieg oben links ausgewichen

Really nice combination. No idea about the grade, for me a lot easier than baylon and a lot harder than Movie It. Tripple send with the crew.

Scharf

Hart und schön

Variante links um die Platte, da die Schüssselstelle in der 2. SL sehr poliert ist. Es gibt sogar ne Haken dafür, dann ist die SL nur 6-

Wirklich sehr viele Haken, sehr anfängerfreundlich

Great via ferrata but hell the descent couldn't be worse down a rubble slide...

Haben unsere mitgenommenen Cams oder Nuts nicht genutzt... Wenn man sich sicher fühlt im Grad und Stil geht es auch ohne (natürlich ohne Gewähr).

sketchy part with no holds, had to grab the root

Should have climbed it while putting up the quickdraws (2 were already in place). All moves up to the last one were very solid, but then I hesitated a bit too much as I wasn't sure where exactly the good part of the edge was, so I fell again at the last move. In my second attempt, my fingers became colder and colder and I could barely hold the good sideclings in the upper part anymore. I fell again at the last move, but this time there was no chance at all of sticking it.

First hard move is already at the first bolt when you only have very few footholds, and the available footholds are very polished. I couldn't do the move to the good sidecling on the right. It's easier afterwards up to the third bolt. The crux is probably from third to fourth bolt, where the good footholds are too low to be useful and where the handholds are not so good either. I also skipped the move to the good hold at the fourth draw which is quite far up to the left. From then one, it gets easier, even though I skipped another move to the fifth bolt. From fifth bolt to the top, the holds are larger and more incut.

Nur Ausstieg, Zustieg über Cinderella

Zusammen gehängt mit Shebel Sheik / Ausstieg Gedenkweg