Ascents in Hauptsektor as Red point or First free ascent

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Finally!

First day climbing outside after 3 months of injury. Before that only ski-mo and bouldering. Good to be back.

#2ndgo

WTF. 3rd go first 7c+ in one session (I knew the start already). WHAT A FIGHT. Felt like falling at every move. I had to shake at every hold thinking to myself - one more move and then I can let go. I used the knee bar. Probably a far reach/hard move if you lack the height - so quite morpho I think. Without pre-clip

Next warmup/cooldown project done. Figuring out how to clip the 4th draw was the crux. Moves are really good, way better than it looks.

No preclip. Nice shoulder moves

3rd go.

Approximately 4 sessions around 10 goes. Really nice moves, but doesn't look as nice. Feels like 8a to me but it is hard to judge because both the crux and the overall style of the route suites me VERY well (so, could also be 8a+). It's hard to imagine a route which plays to my strengths more than this. Around 7b route to very good rest followed by a morpho boulder pulling from an undercling to a far away hold. The boulder is probably easier the taller you are.

4/5 sessions. Funky climbing. No-hand kneebar into jam-your-foot-above-your-head into throw to hold from underclings. Really nice. With a spicy middle part and a nice enjoyable easy top part.

7 sessions, 20 goes. Finally, hardest route to date. Beautiful line. In the end it was an endurance problem. Last week I fell from the last hold. I couldn't believe it. This week I finally managed to keep it together and send. In the end my strategy to avoid getting pumped was to just speed up. I only chalked twice after the rest. I did the entry from (Damen)Gambit it is way nicer this way and not wet all the time.

First 7c. Definitely on the soft side. 6 goes (incl. checking out the moves) 2 full sessions. I found the lower part not as easy as others seem to find it. Did the two finger pocket into far move. Rested long at the resting spot. The left toe hook is really important and I am tall enough to keep it in until i get both hands on the crimps. Then I simultaneously let go of the toe hook (left) and jump (with hands and right foot) to jug. The undercling move over the lip is not so easy if you are tall (I think). In total a very nice route with an interesting crux sequence.

Third session. Maybe around 8 goes. First try in second session felt like i could never do the crux after coming from the ground. But already the try afterwards was surprisingly good. Today it went down thrid go after being not warm enough in the first and not finding the footholds and completely fucking up the second go or to put it in Pawel's words "That was bullshit!". Finally third go was the one although the last moves over the lip felt extremely hard again.

Took me 3 sessions. Always fell on the upper part with the pockets. The lower part felt quite easy (but draining). Entrance boulder is probably easier when you are tall. Approx. 8 goes.

Basically flash but did the left one before which shares the same end and had been fallen at the very first move once which has been the hardest for little me;)

Originally the route was graded 8c+ by first ascentionist Alex Huber but the right hand hold he used on the crux move is basically gone and Adam Ondra found a new beta using a left hand tiny crimp to do the second ascent. I found a way better solution using a good side pull just left of Adam‘s crimp which lets me go directly to the finishing jug. Since this route is pretty much easy except this only move, the whole thing is much easier with my beta now, probably around 8b 😅 It climbs very nicely this way though so I definitely recommend it to people (>170cm) 😉

The most unexpected send since quite a while of this rather antistyle (what motivated me even more) kingline finishing in the baththub again:) felt impossible the first try by not even doing the single moves, directly managed a one hang in the late afternoon the following day, felt tired but Kevin encouraged me to give it another try which somehow was the send already! All about the mind once again:) thx Pauli as well for giving me some light with your headlamp from the ground to find the chains

Bouldery polished classic! Took me about 6 tries to find all micro-beta for connecting all the powerful moves from the ground on; the kneebar higher up is still the best part;) fun fact: numero 100 of the grade

#2go Better than it looks but the hardest part is clipping the 4th draw which makes it a bit annoying;) super close onsight and grounder...

3rd ascent of this cool line in the upper sector. Took me 4 tries to send it. Thanks for the good times Guido!

Ahh I just love this place. So many 5 star lines! This is just one among them! What a beauty! Glad to get it done in 3 tries. So I get to try the next kingline sooner!

THE line at Schleier Wasserfall!! definitely a special feeling climbing on such a high exposed wall with the sound of the waterfall just behind your back. Felt too hard for 8b+ to me. actually struggled more than on Mercy Street or Resistance...

Such a good one! 3rd Go.

3rd Ascent. Opened by Alex Huber in 1994 (when I was 3 years old). Psyched to climb such a fantastic and legendary route! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KskvEEi-m9s&t=17s