Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 10th Aug 2019 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
The Gorge Galaxy Buttress | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Star Chek - with Gregory | 85m, 16 | Average | |||
Not that great. Very nice setting, but the climbing isn't amazing considering the other quality routes that grade in the general area, and some sections of bolting are just plain weird.
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Thu 8th Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Pixie's Corner | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Weiner in the Bun - with Gregory | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Second shot. Slipped off first time going past last bolt. Pretty intimidating bolt spacing!
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Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Papoose | ||||||
5.10b | ★ The Scenario - with Soren | 40m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Went the wrong way at the crux and fell. Solid moves, but keep left on the small holds instead of trying for the layaway flake up right too early.
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Tue 2nd Jul 2019 - Banff | ||||||
Sunshine Rock Paddock Wall Right | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Steeplechase P1 - with Janet and Shauna | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
5.10b | ★ Steeplechase P2 - with Janet and Shauna | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Enjoyable, just a pity it's so short. Been so long since I climbed on limestone...
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5.10d | ★★ Dark Horse - with Janet and Shauna | 17m, 7 | Average | |||
Not exactly sure why, but I didn't find this one all that much fun.
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5.11a | ★★ Secretariat - with Janet and Shauna | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Thin moves at the top, and spent most of the time trying to find the holds. Just as well it isn't too steep!
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Tue 2nd Jul 2019 - Banff | ||||||
Sunshine Rock Rathaus | ||||||
5.11a 5.10d | ★★ Mountain Even (Mountain Aven) - with Janet | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11a | ★★ The Jaxx - with Janet | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short, but fun and definitely a little less obvious than Mountain Aven
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Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Cereal Killer | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Captain Crunch - with deon | 5 | Average | |||
Could be better than we thought, as 50% of the holds were wet. A lot or the rock is partially rotted. Quite a different start, followed by lots of pumpy sidepulls
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Sat 20th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Marc Andre’s Wall | ||||||
5.10b 5.10c | ★ The Marc of Excellence - with deon | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
A bit hard to stay off the arete until the point it actually crosses. The rock on the upper half is really cool.
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Sun 14th Apr 2019 - Cypress Mountain | ||||||
Arbutus Groove | ||||||
5.10b | One-ended Rope | 7m, 3 | Average | |||
Would rate a 'good' if it was 3x longer and not bolted.
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5.11a | Facial Expression | 7m, 3 | Crap | |||
Contrived and shitty, but the only other thing that was remotely dry.
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Fri 12th Apr 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park The Murrin Surrounds Seal Cove | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Swept Away | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great and well protected early lead for aspiring slab climbers
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5.10b | ★★★ Sole Mate | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really fun, and relaxing slabbing. Belongs near the top of the Apron.
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Sun 7th Apr 2019 - Cedar Park (John's Family Conservancy) | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Black Lung - with Ian Saunders | 30m, 11 | ||||
Really fun climbing. Fairly sustained lower half, but with a very obvious crux section. Upper part mostly 10a-ish, but super fun. Turkey vultures cruising around waiting for something to happen.
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5.11a | ★ Rat's Tooth - with Ian Saunders | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Screwed up feet just after the crux and popped off.
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Sun 7th Apr 2019 - Cedar Park (John's Family Conservancy) | ||||||
Gomer | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Give Me Face - with Ian Saunders | 24m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Skaha | ||||||
Raven's Castle | ||||||
5.11c 5.12a | ★★★ Trad-jectory - with Ian Saunders | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome little line. A real pity it got bolted, but I admit to using the bolts...
Pumped out just after clipping the last bolt - 1 move before the jug...Next time!
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Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Skaha | ||||||
Another Buttress | ||||||
5.10d 5.11b | ★★ Tilted Glass - with Ian Saunders | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Thin and tenuous, but not too painful on the tips.
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5.7 | ★★ Hair on a G String - with Ian Saunders | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Actually felt like climbing.
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Sat 6th Apr 2019 - Skaha | ||||||
The Fortress | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Slices of Quince - with Ian Saunders | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really good climbing, going over the classic Skaha polished bulge at the top.
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Sun 24th Mar 2019 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Nightmare Rock | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ The Big Barn Door - with Deon | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Jumped on this to say we actually climbed something. Really contrived, but still fun.
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Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief Above Bellygood | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Upper Black Dyke - with Alice | 150m, 31 | ★ Good | |||
Final pitch only as part of Stairway to Heaven. A little dirty, and soaked on R side, but didn't touch anything wet until the top. A little chossy.
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5.9 | ★★ Traverse of the Gods - with Alice | 55m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did as one pitch. Awesome feature, well named!
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Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Bulletheads Bulletheads South | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Xenolith Dance - with Alice | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
P1 only. Good lead by Alice. But it's still not a xenolith!
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5.10a 5.10c | ★ Chassè Right - with Alice | 45m | ||||
p2 (10a) only, accessed by traversing from Xenolith Dance anchors.
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Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief Penthouse | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Mr. Ciechanowski - with Alice | 25m | Average | |||
Beware. The massive jug on the right after the roof is flexing, and will break off soon.
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Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Raven's Castle | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Whatever - with Alice | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Was meant to do Ladies First, but it was getting dark and completely missed the bolts. Progressively harder right to the top.
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Wed 19th Sep 2018 - Cypress Falls Park | ||||||
Cougar Crag | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Double Shot No Foam Soy Latte | 13m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Screwed up my sequence to accidentally find a better one. Will try to remember it for next time...
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5.11c | ★ S.O.S. | 14m, 5 | Average | |||
Was feeling a lot harder than it looked until I found some jams. Would improve if it was a bit cleaner.
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Sun 9th Sep 2018 - Cypress Falls Park | ||||||
Cougar Crag | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Flake Route | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did this to start and finish. Much easier at the start of the day! Knowing the holds and sequence helps a lot on this steep rock
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5.12a | ★★★ Double Shot No Foam Soy Latte | 13m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Three shots, probably all too close together. Cool move past the first bolt, and then took a while to figure out the crux section with the tick marks and chalk everywhere. Figured out the feet on the second shot, then just got too pumped for the crux on the third shot. Loving this crag, is a great workout.
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Fri 7th Sep 2018 - Cypress Falls Park | ||||||
Cougar Crag | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Flake Route | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Getting a little tired...Hard start, maybe missed something on the way to the start of the flake. Easy up flake and corner, then cruxy move out right. Move right foot up for move.
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5.11a | ★★ Pool Boy | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb, good value for the grade.
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5.10c | ★ Awkward Proposition | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fun and steep, just a pity the top was so filthy
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5.10d | Cougarlicious | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Was having troubles with getting the pro-traxion running smoothly while keeping the rope out of the water. Might have been more fun if things were running smoothly.
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Mon 3rd Sep 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Betazoid / The Milkman's Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Jugs, Not Drugs - with barb | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Fun, juggy gym climbing. Pity it's so short.
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5.11c | ★★ Gertrude - with barb | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun. Steep jugs with a single V3 move at the 3rd bolt. Would deserve a star or two if it was a bit longer.
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Sun 1st Jul 2018 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Bulletheads Campground Wall | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Varicose Veins - with Janet | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unbelievably didn't screw it up, despite my best efforts. Crux is around bolts 3-4, with top section pretty simple.
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Wed 6th Jun 2018 - Lighthouse Park | ||||||
Juniper Point | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Big Pin - with Tim | 10m | ★ Good | |||
5.10a | ★ Coho - with Tim | 10m | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★ Jugs Away - with Tim | 10m | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Barnacle Bill - with Tim | 12m | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Big Pin Left - with Tim | 12m | ||||
Wed 2nd May 2018 - Cypress Falls Park | ||||||
Knucklehead | ||||||
5.11c | ★★★ What the Dog Saw | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pulled it out of my arse. Will be fun to lead this once it's dry.
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Tue 24th Apr 2018 - Lighthouse Park | ||||||
Juniper Point | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Hot Chocolate (Arbutus Tree) - with Janet | 15m | Average | |||
5.11c | ★★ Orca - with Janet | 10m | ★ Good | |||
A few fun moves in the top half
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5.10d | ★★ Starfish - with Janet | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Getting around the overhang is fun, otherwise quite cruisey
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Wed 23rd Aug 2017 - Squamish | ||||||
Top Shelf | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Cursing All the Way - with Alex | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Some slopey holds mixed in with nasty crimps...Felt quite similar to Hillwood.
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Thu 17th Aug 2017 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Beginner's Luck | 13m, 6 | Average | |||
5.11a | ★★ My One Muscle | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.11c 5.11b | ★ Get Bent! | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.11b | ★★ Wingman | 22m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 25th Jun 2017 - Skaha | ||||||
Ochre Wall | ||||||
5.10d 5.11a | ★★ Ebbing Strength - with Deano | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 25th Jun 2017 - Skaha | ||||||
Go Anywhere | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Viagra - with Spencer | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 25th Jun 2017 - Skaha | ||||||
Little White Wall | ||||||
5.10a | Retread - with Deano | 12m, 6 | Don't Bother | |||
5.11a | ★★ Sanitize review 1 (Cockasian Blend) - with Spencer | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Screwed up first shot going wrong way. Easy second try.
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Sat 24th Jun 2017 - Skaha | ||||||
Red Tail Upper | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Wedgies - with Deano | 30m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Harder wearing Deano's clown shoes
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Sat 24th Jun 2017 - Skaha | ||||||
Screeching Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Watching Bananas Bend - with Deano | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 8th Sep 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Raging Duck | 18m, 5 | Average | |||
Not the best gear, and not the best climb!
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Mon 15th Aug 2016 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Little LuLu | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5.10a | ★ 3M | 20m | ★ Good | |||
5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Shake your lettuce | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better than I remembered. Really nice climbing.
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5.10b | ★★ Dynamic Duo | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 11th Aug 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
The Sanctuary The Basement | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Placebo | 9m | Average | |||
As the guide says, not the best warm-up. A pretty ugly climb, really. Nowhere near two stars!
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5.11d | ★ Pleasure Dome | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second shot. Dyno past the 4th bolt cuts out a lots of moves. Once the sequence was figured out, was easy enough to go fast and beat the pump.
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Thu 11th Aug 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Shannon Falls Shannon Falls Wall | ||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Magic Carpet Ride - with Deano | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing. Hard to get off the ground, and a long way to the first clip, but rest of p1 fairly easy, with a harder step left at about 2/3 height. Second pitch gets 11a in the guide, but is definitely the hardest/most sustained. Awesome slabbing. p3 has a couple of hardish moves, but generally felt easier than p2. p4 fairly straight-forwards, with one slightly harder move going past the 4th(?) bolt.
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Mon 8th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Century Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ 2FA King (Unknown) | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 8th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Amphitheater | ||||||
5.11a 5.11b | ★★ Addicted to War (Unknown 2) | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 8th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Century Wall | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Quarter Century Girl - with Deano | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
One slip and one sit. Would definitely feel soft with a bit of endurance. Almost all jugs, with a couple of great rests on the way.
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Mon 8th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Amphitheater | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ Plastic Jesus - with Deano | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One fall going for the big hole (end of the crux?), and lowered off for Deano to have another go.
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5.11a | ★★★ You Enjoy Myself - with Deano | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pumped out the first time, got it second go just fine. Easy moves, just steep!
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Sun 7th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Amphitheater | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Fuzzy Slippers (Unknown 1) | 15m | Average | |||
Got too pumped trying to figure which way to go. Not the most inspiring route here.
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5.12b | ★★★ Moonraker - with Deano | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Found the mid-height crux hard, but apparently I missed a pocket...Almost let go just before the anchors. Just the one go. Couple of falls midway, and one sit higher up.
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Sat 6th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Stage Right | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Isa's Eyes | 25m | Average | |||
Sharp rock! Becomes more fun with height.
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Sat 6th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Century Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Lee'king - with Deano | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 6th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Stage Right | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Body p1 - with Deano | 20m | ★ Good | |||
5.11b | ★★★ The Body p2 - with Deano | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Had a fall at the flake just before the chert bands. For some reason, we thought there was only 9 bolts on the second pitch, but there's 12! Super pumpy just before the chert bands, easing off after second bolt into chert.
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Wed 29th Jun 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Fern Hill | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Burp the Worm - with Deano | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Made me sweat, especially getting the final jug. Some pretty burly parts, but unfortunately (fortunate for me) it's not very sustained.
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5.11a | ★ Solitary Confinment - with Deano | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Followed Deano up. Very distinct cruxy moves, with a bit of reach helping towards the top.
|
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5.11a | ★★ Typical Squamish - with Deano | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed after Deano. It might be dirtier than a lot of the other climbs here, but it climbs really well.
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Tue 28th Jun 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Petrifying Wall DOA Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Underwire | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, with a thankfully good jug after the roof.
|
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5.10b | ★★ Heavy Petting Action | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unexpectedly long, and climbs very well. A bit confusing right at the top, trying not to cross onto the route to the left.
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Tue 28th Jun 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Petrifying Wall Pleasant Pheasant Area | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Pleasant Pheasant - with Deano | 22m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Gets you pumped if you're unfit, but otherwise pretty simple climbing.
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Mon 2nd May 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
The Fortress | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Stouthearted | 34m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Plum Line | 34m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Definitely easier than the climbs to either side, but just such fun climbing!
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5.10a 5.9 | ★★ Sagging Bumline | 36m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The new guide gives it 5.9, but it's harder than Plum Line and Stout Hearted, especially near the top. Good run-outs!
|
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Sat 30th Apr 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Morning Glory | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Black Acid | 14m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great fun, Steep and juggy with incut sidepulls.
|
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5.11a | ★★ Villainous | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Pumpy access to upper pitch
|
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5.11a | ★★ Totally Villainous | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Combined with Villainous into one pitch. Had to rest on second last bolt. Next time!
|
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Sat 30th Apr 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Claim It All | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Piggy Monster | 24m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Felt tough for a 5.9 warm-up! But perhaps I'm just soft.
|
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5.10a | ★ Homers Wake | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun, making me think in a couple of spots
|
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5.10b 5.10a | ★★ Odyssey | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Definite cruxy section near the top
|
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Fri 29th Apr 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Claim It All | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Faint Hope Claws - with Janet | 24m, 9 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Fathers Day - with Janet | 22m | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Stubborn Streak - with Janet | 25m | ||||
5.9 | ★ lliad - with Janet | 25m | ||||
Fri 29th Apr 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Morning Glory | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Red Dawg - with Janet | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Blue Bull - with Janet | 15m, 7 | ★ Good |