Nodes in Right Wing

The right wing shaped band of upper cliff.

These climbs start off a ledge about 8m above and left of the base of TnA wall.

Start a short scramble down and left from the start of "Another Brick in the Wall", bolt for belayer.

Climb a short sequence of 5.4 moves past 3 bolts, then an easy (5.1ish), well-protected 20m romp to the anchors.

A good climb for learning to lead on gear.

This climb does not easily top-out. (Well, it mostly does, but with no easy trail back to the rest of the top-outs.)

At the far left end of the ledge below Pink Floyd wall (left end of the safety rope) there is a groove that heads up and rightwards.

Climb up the groove, passing above and left of the large cedar. Cross "Ummagumma" clipping one bolt, then up the thin crack in the face right of the arete.

Start about 5m right of "Another Brick in the Wall", below and right of a large cedar tree growing low out of the cliff.

Climb the right-facing corner or slab to its right passing below then left of the cedar tree. Continue up the left-facing wall in the gully, clipping bolts high and right, stemming in the corner as needed. (Climbing only the right wall in the gully is probably about 5.7.)

Right of Ummagumma is a left-facing dihedral where the left wall starts as slab and turns into roof. Climb the corner and pull over the roof, then up the crack above.

A few meters right of "Camalot" is another left-facing corner, about a meter right of a birch tree sticking out from the cliff about 1m off the ledge.

Climb the short slab and/or left-facing corner to start, then bulges directly above the corner to a blunt arete. Continue up the blunt arete to anchors. For full value, don't use the corner/crack of Camalot.

Bolts run close to the bolts for "Shine on You Crazy Diamond", but this line generally climbs left of that bolt line.

Starts left of the birch, and shares the first 2-3 bolts (depnding on exactly how you choose to climb it) with "Stolen Land". Below the third bolt, rather than continuing upwards, step down and right, and pull onto the face above the low roof. Then continue up and right to the next bolt near a horn. From there, continue up and right to a platform, then back left up a shallow dihedral with a thin & broken crack in the back.

At times, the bolts for this run confusingly close to the bolts for "Stolen Land", but this climb generally runs to the right of the bolts in that section.

In the middle of the low overhang is a small notch. Pull up through the notch on small holds to easier going on the slab above. Continue up to the next roof above, and pull over that as well.

Might still want a bit more cleaning on the upper section

6 bolts to anchor, 7 to top-out anchor.

This route starts just at the right edge of the low overhang, where it turns upwards to be the start of "Escapism".

Pull onto the face. Climb upwards towards the right side of the overhang above, climb up this stay to the left edge of the dihedral and on the face. Pull up onto a ledge with a notch near the left edge, then up easier ground to anchors, or continue to the top.

From the start of "Welcome to the Machine", which is the right-most route accessible from the safety rope, follow the edge of the wall up and right until you reach a line of bolts proceeding up an angular corner. (If you continue up and right, next line of bolts is "Wish You Were Here", which is significantly harder.)

Climb the corner, pulling out left onto the slab at the top. Then angle back right above the corner and up to an anchor.

Can top-out, but leaves a bit of an exposed scramble at the top - not recommended.

Climb the obvious arete and face to the right of it. Do not go left onto the slab, that's (un)Comfortably Numb - 5.6.

On Pink Floyd wall, looks out over TnA wall.

Longer routes starting from the base of the face.

not currently a cleaned or well-defined route

Look for a large right-facing wall at the top of the cliff and extending part way down, this climb aims for the face just right of that wall. Start up a ramp on higher ground, right of that face.

Climb leftwards up a wide easy slab with vegetated cracks towards the right-facing wall. (Minimal gear, but easy climbing.) At the wall, turn rightwards and climb up the clean rock on good holds to the top, exiting slightly left at the top, to a cedar tree for belay.

There is a cluster of 5 (oak) trees at the base of the cliff. This climb starts just up and left of the cluster of trees.

This climb starts up initially over a series of blocky ledges, following generally easy climbing, and eventually passing left of the bulges near the top of the cliff.

Start below the big roof just right of Sunday Morning Stroll. Climb up slabs and grooves to the roof, pull the roof, then finish more easily.

First ascended on gear. Bolted by suggestion of FA.

At the base below the left side of the the left tit are a pair of parallel right-leaning grooves. The climb starts up the right-side one, then up passing a gnarled tree to the right and up past the left side of the left tit.

This climb does not easily top-out.

Start about 5m right of "Big Finish", climb up a short steep section to easier ground then up a dark-coloured groove to a small bulge. Continue up another inside-corner to the obvious larger roof. Pull this near the left edge, then up and right following the obvious right-facing corner.

As a variant, pulling the roof direct probably goes at 5.10-.

This climb does not easily top-out.

Route development: Kate Hunt: most of the cleaning, David Gibbs: bolting, a bit of cleaning.

Looking up at the cliff, there are a pair of overhangs/bulges split in the middle such that they look like a pair of breasts. This climb breaks the overhang through the cleavage in the middle. Start at a bolt line directly below this cleavage.

Climb up blocky ledges to the first bulge, pull over this then up the less vertical face above to the notch in the roof. Wiggle your way through the cleavage then up and right in the groove, or on the arete to the right, until the groove ends, then straight up to the anchors.

Note: TnA used to have a bit of a run-out to the anchor, but nowadays, people generally borrow/share the last bolt of "Kate and David's Excellent Adventure" if they're worried.

This is a real rope-stretcher on a 60m rope -- tie a knot and prepare to scramble, or prefer a 70m rope.

Starts at a bright-white section of rock up a bit of a scramble. First bolt can also be used for belayer to clip-in.

Head up over easy blocky ground towards a small roof; pull over it directly at the bolt or a bit right of it. Continue upwards toward the right end of a larger roof. After pulling this, angle back left towards anchors shared with "Tits 'n' Ass".

Can be climbed with a 60m rope if belayer is prepared to scramble up a bit on the lower-off. Knot your rope in this case.

Climb the clear path excavated from the dirt over a couple sloping ledges to a corner then series of corners and bulges above.

Fun climbing that gets steadily harder until you reach the crux 5.8 (maybe 5.8+) bulge.

Anchor is just short of the top of the cliff. To top out continue up and left a couple meters to the "Tits 'n' Ass" anchors (chains).

Goes on a 70m rope, but tie a knot. If you're short draws, it is pretty easy going for the first couple clips, so they can easily be skipped.

Down and right from the ramp that easy street and the other climbs start from, a rib of rock descends an extra few meters into the forest. The climb starts at the base of this rib, and goes mostly directly upwards from there, though it does wander a bit rightwards at a dihedral, then traverse back leftwards at the end of this.

Route is a rope-stretcher on a 70m rope.

Climb/TR/Lower-off anchor is about 2m from actual top-out. Use this one, unless actually topping out, then the higher anchor on the platform works.

After being a TR route, this spent a while as a trad line but, on gear, the route was a bit run-out in places, and gear was often small and/or tricky to place, though generally with decent stances for placing. So, retro-bolted in 2020 with permission of the FA.

When this route was first climbed on TR, there were two large loose stacks of rock near the route, the first (lower down) to the left of the route, and the 2nd farther up to the right of the route. This route was named because it travelled carefully between the two scary monsters.

Starts about 5m (15') right and slightly down from "Scylla and Charybdis", with a belayer bolt, since the ground is a bit steep.

Follow the many many bolts up then trending left, past a couple bulges and much interesting climbing.

This route is 38m, it is a close rope-stretcher on a 70m rope. To climb from the bottom and lower, lower straight down (basically the "Scylla and Charybdis" line) rather than following the path of the route down. Also, consider using long slings on the anchor.

Using extended draws (alpine quickdraws) and/or long quickdraws around roofs and along traverses helps with rope drag and makes it easier to pull the rope. (Yes, rope management skills aren't just for trad climbers!)

Due to the traversing nature of the route, it does not make for a good rappel from the top nor a good top-rope, unless careful to maintain directionals.

The route is named after the musical "Come From Away", a story about Newfoundlanders hosting stranded passengers during 9/11.

A section of cliff about 100m right of TnA wall that overlooks the gully of "Gully Scramble".

This cliff has generally shorter routes, making it a nice way to round out your day, or start your day, as the routes also tend to dry quickly after a rain. That is, they'll be try while many of the routes on "TnA Wall" are still wet.

The wall has a lower section to the left, and an upper section with a wide sloping ledge at its base to the right.

The first two climbs ("Shandy" and "Night Cap") start below the main bench you arrive on.

To reach their starts, traverse left on the fixed rope to the far left/lower corner of the bench, then rappel (or otherwise descend) down the fixed rope. It will drop you at the start for "NightCap". "Shandy" is a coupe meters left.

(One could also approach from the gully more directly by traversing in below the bench -- It is doable if you're comfortable on that sort of terrain, that is, a bit exposed and loose.)

Starts about 4m left of "Nightcap".

Climb onto the short slab, then up the steep rock on good holds to finish up the slab above; anchor is below a boulder.

Close-bolted and a good beginner lead.

Starts on top of a juniper bush below and right of a square groove through a small bulge about 4m up.

Climb up on to the slab and angle left to the square groove. Climb up this towards the obvious arete, and at the end of the groove step left onto the slab below the arete. Continue up the slab left of the arete to the anchors.

Once finished this climb, it is easy to lower or rappel to the bench and safety rope at the top of it.

The next three climbs start from the upper bench, and are the first ones you reach from the gully approach.

Starts about half way between the end of the approach rope and the corner.

Climb past two bolts to a small ledge, then past one more to the anchors below the Juniper bush.

Short, but sweet.

At the top of the broad slab is a small foot-ramp heading up and right, and a bolt for the belayer. Climb up this for a few meter to a blocky corner, then up the blocky corner to the horizontal break. At the break, traverse right about 2m, crossing the line of "Digestif" then up the good holds on the right side of the upper face to finish.

Juggy fun, with good gear -- a good early trad lead.

Bolted anchor.

Starts at the far right side of the cliff section, at a belayer bolt. Start up over a couple small ledges to a shallow scooped slab, then continue up this to the horizontal break. At the break, step left a couple meters, crossing the line of "Apéritif", to below some left-facing rails on the upper face. Climb up this harder face to finish.

This is a loose gully that provides an approach to "Gully Wall" (that section is roped) and could also be used to get to the base of "TnA Wall", or to exit without doing a climb. But, you are generally better to rappel in and climb out, with the easiest choice being "Sunday Morning Stroll".

From the base of "TnA Wall", walk climbers right until an obvious wide, treed, gully is visible going up and rightwards. Climb this 3rd class gully to the top.

From the top, this is harder to find, and there are other gullies that get dangerously steep if you choose the wrong one. It is skiers' left of the of where the approach trail from parking meets the ridge trail, about 200 meters, and angles down and rightwards. It is the first wide (15m) gully that drops down. It starts about when the ridge line starts to drop.

This was originally, perhaps misleadingly, called "Easy way up/down".

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