Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown year | |||||
A2 | Nervous Laughter
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.7 A1 | L'Infranchissable
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
A2 | Direct Maurice Bejart
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.10+ | ★★★ New Kids on the Block
Very sporty, yet naturally protected. Follow the overhanging crack up the middle of the face past two small roofs, all the way to a bolt below the slab finish at the top. | 1 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.12d | ★ Make My Day
This climb ascends the slightly overhanging middle part of the cliff. Small flakes, crucial footwork. Anchors at the top. | 3 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.11b | ★★ Hummingbirds and Black Flies
In the middle of the low overhang is a small notch. Pull up through the notch on small holds to easier going on the slab above. Continue up to the next roof above, and pull over that as well. Might still want a bit more cleaning on the upper section 6 bolts to anchor, 7 to top-out anchor. Set: David Gibbs FFA: Jonathan Seguin-Bigras, 15 Aug 2020 | 15m, 6 | Lac Sam | ||
Sesame Block | CEGEP Boulders | ||||
V1 | Buju | CEGEP Boulders | |||
V4 | Mosquito Crusher | CEGEP Boulders | |||
V0 | ★ Arete.
Opposing arete to the white problem, and so one face further left from red. Difficulties lie in the top out only. | Lac Beauchamp Park Boulders | |||
V4 | ★ Cross Le Crux
Similar start as Tappe moi la fesse but Left hand in the hueco and right in an undercling. Go straight up. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
proj11
| Eardley Escarpment | ||||
V1 | ★ Toizo
Start low on the lip and climb it all the way to its apex. Cool problem for the grade. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
V3 | ★★★ Toe the Line
Sit start with big sidepull left hand and nearby right hand hold. Climb up to jug ledge using sidepulls and other holds before joining the other routes for the topout. | Plateau Boulder | |||
Face proj1
| Eardley Escarpment | ||||
Project Lego1
climb face | Eardley Escarpment | ||||
V9 | ★ Centaur Centre
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
V7 | ★★ H1N1
Same start as The Temple, but traverse left along horizontal seam to finish on Quatros Hombres. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
V1 | Richard's Left Forearm
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.9 | ★★ Chocolate Squirrel
Hands-to-fingers crack in a left-facing corner. 5.9+ G Set: Doug Fleck FA: Doug Fleck, 23 May 2020 FFA: Doug Fleck, 20 Jun 2020 | 10m | Mont Ste-Marie | ||
5.10c | ★★ Haute Tension
FA: Edith Prescott FA: André Gauthier, Sep 2021 | 1 | Panorama - Bowman | ||
5.8 | ★★ Left Cheek Direct
Start at the foot of the left side of the face beneath a slight break in the overhang.
| 60m, 2 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.5 | ★★ Route C
Start at a small corner a bit up and to the right of Route B, follow the thin crack to a corner in the upper part of the cliff, then on to 2 bolts as anchors. | 10m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.8 R | Face Climb
Start 1m left of Corner Crack. Climb directly up the center of the face. A bolt 4m up provides only psychological protection for the crux moves. | 1 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.10d | Raven Lunatics
Pitch 1: Start underneath the right side of the large roof. Climb up a corner to a horizontal crack that takes you right; underneath an overhang, to a slab and anchors beside a pine tree. Pitch 2: Climb behind the tree and follow the obvious leftward traverse, past a piton to the bottom of a large overhanging chimney and crack system. Belay. Pitch 3: Climb the chimney and crack to pine trees at the top. Walk down to the left. FA: R Halka, J Cotter & S Adcock | 3 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.8 | ★★ Avalanche Wall
| 2 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.9 | ★★ (unnamed 2)
FA: P Slivka - 2006 | 55m, 2, 16 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.9 | (unnamed)
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.11c A1 | Le Lone
1 bolt and numerous pins. The Big Overhang Classic. A long, varied, route with a great atmosphere.
FFA: P Delaney - 1998 FA: J Flamand - 1972 | 2, 1 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.9 | ★ Is It Safe to Dance
Start well up the hillside, on the west face of the cliff. Climb diagonally right up to the edge of the long horizontal overhang which splits the face. Move left to gain a set of cracks which are followed to the top. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.10 | Chimera
Directly up the short left face of Mouse Eater, past two bolts. | 2 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.3 | Glossets
Climb up some blocks to a thin crack in the slab. Climb up a thick right-facing flake to the top. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.6 | ★ Piton Arete
Start the same as "Piton Highway". Gain the arete and climb bypassing the corner. Finish as for "Piton Highway". | 25m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
V2 | ★ Fuck You!
Sit Start | Lac Beauchamp Park Boulders | |||
V0- | High Rising Traverse
Runs parallel to, but above, the previous route: traverse with feet along the edge between the overhang and the slab, mostly on the slab. | Lac Sam | |||
V4 | ★★ Gonzo
Start matched on lowest sloper and make your way to the big sidepull crack on the right. Topout to the left of the crack. See beta here: https://youtu.be/Hw_KtKAIZII | 4m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
V1 | La Flechette | CEGEP Boulders | |||
V2 | Pʻtits biceps | CEGEP Boulders | |||
V4 | L'upper cut
Sit start with a right heelhook. The first move is a v5ish move itself but the rest is fluid and enjoyable to do. Set: Jean-Claude Savard | Asticou | |||
V2 | ★★★ La craque du plombier
This is a direct route starting with the big jug. Make your way to the slabby top out by following the crack. Scary highball Set: Jean-Claude Savard FA: Mathieu St.amour | Asticou | |||
V1 | ★ Geobloc
Starting low with the obvious sidepull feature, reach up for the good holds !! | Plateau Boulder | |||
V7 | ★★ Omega Plumber
Same as Epic Plumber but topout after the corner rather than all the way to the end. A little more cruxy | Asticou | |||
V0 | ★ La Grosse Facile
Huge boulder with plenty of lines. Holds everywhere. | Plateau Boulder | |||
Proj17
| Eardley Escarpment | ||||
V0 | ★ Acro Left
Start left of the arete with a right hand undercling. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
V5 | ★★ Early Bird
SDS in low slot, then up left on tiny crimps | Eardley Escarpment | |||
V4 | ★ Bungalow
Very low start on the big rock that doesn't look climbable. The crux is the first move. Beta : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYiGhYgvWY8 | Plateau Boulder | |||
V1 | ★★ Dark Yellow C | Gatineau Hospital Bouldering | |||
V0 | Citadel warm up 2
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
★★ Covid to H1N1
start on jugs and make you way to finish on h1n1, VHard | Eardley Escarpment | ||||
V0 | Close Quarters
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
V5 | ★★ Champignon Magique
SDS in front of the rock. Same line as "Jus de Champignon", but don't use the detached rocks for your feet. Spicy! | Plateau Boulder | |||
V0 | ..
| 2m | Lac Beauchamp Park Boulders | ||
5.6 | ★★ La Cheminée
Takes very large gear. | 14m | Paroi de l'Écho | ||
5.6 | Maple Mantelpiece
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.10a | ★★ Sexy White Pimp Cars
Climb the bolts to the right of the Bitter Fingers crack. September 2012, bolts chopped. Route takes very solid gear. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.6 | High Stepping
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.4 | Qawwli
Up the large corner at the left end of the cliff, past two evergreens to the top. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.10b | ★★ Cotter Crack
Climb the crack splitting the buttress to the anchors on top. The crack starts as a finger crack and ends as an arm crack. FFA: S Adcock & J Prokopiak - 1984 FA: R Halka, S Adcock & J Cotter - 1984 | Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.7 PG | Biner Buster Parfait
Climb up to the ledge, then make a few technical moves to gain the arch. Step left onto the steep face which is scaled on unsuspectedly good holds. No pro past the arch. | 15m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.8 | Fissure des Anglais
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.7 | Le Labyrinthe
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
A2 | Le Vers Libre
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.10 | (unknown 5)
Climb a system of flake cracks going slightly left, past some (unnecessary?) bolts, to the top. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.9 | ★ Bolt Route link-up
Climb up the bolt line on the right side of the face until the ledge (after the 5th bolt, where the route becomes far steeper and thinner), then traverse left and continue up the bolts for the left route, finally veering right again to finish on the anchor for the right bolt line. | 30m, 10 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
V2 | ★ Firestarter
Nothing special. Mini boulder.. | Lac Beauchamp Park Boulders | |||
V5 | ★★ Groundhog
Started With matched hands on Red Dot hold. Then head left twice and proceed along the shelf to the clearing in the top Dyno to Top either matching high or Toping out if feeling brave. FA: Lanctot | 2m | Lac Beauchamp Park Boulders | ||
V2 | Blastoise Slab
The slab to the left of Crack de nene. Eliminate - do not use the crack or side and climb only the slab on crimps, vertical crack, and small feet. | CEGEP Boulders | |||
V1 | ★★ El Missil
SDS on crimps, climb the arete on the left. | CEGEP Boulders | |||
V2 | L'aveuglette
Start on a good edge caught in the roof. Reach out to the right of the roof. Set: Jean-Claude Savard | Lac Beauchamp Park Boulders | |||
V5 | ★★ Le Masochiste
An excellent line on Squamish style crystals. Start at the bottom left of the boulder, matched on a huge shelf. Traverse right and top out to the left of the tree. | Plateau Boulder | |||
V7 | ★★ La Pierre Tombale
Traversing the whole lip. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.9 | ★ No Heroes
Plumb line finger/hand crack on the left side of the face. | 32m | Paroi Elephant | ||
V3 | ★ Red Code
Start left hand low on arête, right hand on tiny crimp (red dots). Climb the arête. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
Proj 5
| Eardley Escarpment | ||||
V4 | ★★ Les Fesses
SDS with opposing crimps. First moove is the crux. | 5m | CEGEP Boulders | ||
V2 | ★ Top Out
Running Start jump and top out. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
V2 | ★ Partridge Poop
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
V1 | Dalle de cristal
Petite dalle. Départ debout les deux mains sur le cristal à hauteur du visage. Sortir tout droit sans trop se déplacer vers la droite ni la gauche. Short slab. Stand start, both hands on the crystal at face height. Top out straight up. | Plateau Boulder | |||
V2 | ★★ Blind assistance
Starting on the jug near chest level traverse to the corner. The shelf is out past the corner. Go up just before the big crack. | 3m | Plateau Boulder | ||
5.11b | ★★ Your Wife
| 9m, 4 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.10c | ★★ Minor Threat
Climb the face and cracks right of "Morning Crack". Can either finish with a step-right and mantel to the anchors for "Enron", or left to the anchors for "Morning Crack". | 1 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.9 | ★ Headstone
Follow the right side of the arete. Rappel anchors at top. | 4 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.8 | The Swings the Thing
| 2 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
A3 | Traversee de L'Aigle
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.8 | La Sirene
| Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.9 | ★ One Cool Mama
Pull up onto an undercut face and move right to an obvious short dihedral. Follow this and exit via slabs above it to the top. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.11- | Feelin' Groovy
| 5 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
★★★ unknown9
| Lac Beauchamp Park Boulders | ||||
La Traverse du Singe | CEGEP Boulders | ||||
Disco Bulge | CEGEP Boulders | ||||
V2 | Chalked Web
The wall on your right is out. Go straight up. | CEGEP Boulders | |||
V3 | ★★ Des Frites Russe
The traverse that will make your skin bleed. Sit start on the left end and top just before the tree. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
proj12
| Eardley Escarpment | ||||
V2 | ★ Sewage Avenue
Start low on a good hold and climb the lip. Not really worth it... | Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.14a/b | ★★ Open Project #2
Right of Big Joe! High starting hold (7 feet?) PROJECT | Eardley Escarpment | |||
Face proj2
| Eardley Escarpment | ||||
Project Nmoc1
sit start | Eardley Escarpment | ||||
V3 | Mamma Sita
SDS matched really low, reach to thin sidepull and pop up. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
V1 | Richard's Right Forearm
| Eardley Escarpment |