Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.10a | ★★ The Hulk
Climbs up a short bit of slab to a vertical wall with green streaks and bolts. Up the face to a right facing corner/chimney right of a high roof, then finishes a bit left. Try not to be lured off route by the chalk and crumbly jugs on the far left under the roof. Stay true to the bolt line for the full experience - and grade. | 16m, 6 | Calabogie | ||
5.7 | ★ Stage Right
The right set of bolts up this face. If climbed directly over the bolts, goes about 5.7 -- but can be climbed at about 5.5 by drifting a bit off line either right or left into larger holds. This now (fall 2012) has a chunk of rock at the bottom labelling it as "Stage Right 5.8 S". | 13m, 4 | Calabogie | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Diedre
1
5.7
50m
2
5.6
20m
3
5.8
40m
4
5.8
35m
5
5.7
40m
6
5.8
35m
FFA: Bob Woodsworth & Glenn Woodsworth, 1962 FA: Jim Baldwin & Jim Sinclair, 1962 | 220m, 6 | Squamish | ||
5.10a | ★★ Hakuna-Matata
The bolt line right of "Moje Zlato", climb the face and over the small roof. The historically run-out (though with a clean fall) finish has, apparently, now had a bolt installed to protect it, above the crack in which the (historical, optional) piece would have been placed. (Finish was a bit run-out, but can be protected with an (optional) piece in the horizontal finger crack. The block below the crack is hollow and a fall on gear could dislodge it.) Anchor is in a big detached block. FA: Ken Flagg & Petra Slivka, 2011 | 15m, 5 | Calabogie | ||
5.9 | ★★ Desert Trip
Climb a short face to a short slab to a bulge. Pull the bulge/roof to a ledge to the right. Then up and left over another bulge, then right to the anchors. FA: 2016 | 15m, 6 | Calabogie | ||
5.10c | ★★★ Sausages
Probably the most climbed-on route at Down Under, often used as a warm-up. Below and to the right of the small cave at the top is an interesting no-hands rest. | 12m, 5 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.8 | ★ Tree Hugger
Climbs over the same roof as Desert Trip to its right, with more consistent but easier climbing. | 16m, 6 | Calabogie | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane
Follow the nice finger crack that widens large hands at the top. Belay the second from the top. Either walk down or rappel down "Crime of the Century" FFA: Anders Ourom & John Arts, 1978 | 30m | Squamish | ||
5.6 | ★ Fogged Up
Now (spring 2017) cleaned & bolted as a sport route, with a label stone as "Too Many Puppies 5.8S" - was graded 5.4 in the 80s as a trad route. Start 5m to the right of a small cairn (yeah, right, like it's still there) and at the base of a steep slab facing right, 75m past the start of "First Flight". A short face leads to the base of the slab. Follow the slab to the top, generally keeping to its left edge, bypassing a cedar. The crux move involves stepping left onto a bulge (6m above the base of the slab) while using a horizontal break for a hand jam. FA: M Buck & J Hayding, 1984 | 16m, 5 | Calabogie | ||
5.8 | ★ Stage Left
About 100m right of Calabogie Sunset you will come around a bit of a corner to an easy-angled face with a couple bolt lines up it. This now (fall, 2012) has a plaque at the bottom labelling it as "Stage Left 5.9". This is the left-most of the two bolt lines. The first bolt is a bit high, so a placement before this bolt could help, though the climbing is also fairly easy. Crack has been retro-bolted with FA permission. | 13m, 5 | Calabogie | ||
5.9 | ★ Moje Zlato
There are a pair of bolted lines up a left-facing wall, this is the left-most of the two of them. This goes at about 5.9 if you stay on the face the bolts are on, but somewhat easier if you move into the corner to the left. Probably about 5.7 if climbed to the left. FA: 2011 | 15m, 5 | Calabogie | ||
5.9 | ★★ Boulder Dash
Climb easily to a high first bolt, then follow the glue-ins past a couple small roofs using a sharp arete. Name-stone at base. | 15m, 5 | Calabogie | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Calculus Crack
1
5.7
2
5.8
3
5.6
4
5.8
5
5.7
6
5.0
First two pitches can be done through the trees if starting on the right hand side or do Calculus Direct and start in Pitch 3 of Calculus Crack route;
| 150m, 6 | Squamish | ||
5.10a | ★★ Zoë
FA: Glenn, Glenn Payan & Jeff Thomson, 1998 | 25m, 7 | Squamish | ||
5.7 | ★★ Banana Peel
1
5.4
25m
2
5.0
30m
3
5.5
15m
4
5.7
30m
5
5.4
15m
6
5.7
30m
7
5.4
50m
8
5.4
50m
220m. A generally easy and un-sustained, but sometimes run-out climb across and up the Apron.
FA: Dan Tate & Barry Hagen, 1965 | 250m, 8 | Squamish | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Flying Circus
FA: Dick Mitten & Dave Lane, 1977 | 25m | Squamish | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Star Chek
1
5.7
2
5.7
3
5.9
Climb up the ramp out of the gorge, staying along the arete. Nice climbing with beautiful views. P1. 5.7 20m, 4 bolts P2. 5.7 45m, 8 bolts (don't stop at the first anchor -- this is just an intermediate rap station) P3. 5.9 20m, 4 bolts Pitch 3 Variation: 5.10c climbs to the left, around the corner, to the same upper belay location. NOTE: The trail from the car park IS the way to go as per the update on Quickdraw Publications. Its is a well maintained trail with just a shitty move on scree slope but totally safe, much quicker than walking the same distance and then raping. If for whatever mysterious reason you want to rap, the rap station is 5 meter left of the chains from top of start check as per pic below. Can be done in 2 raps with a 70m rope or 3 with a 60m. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD PEOPLE RAP THE ROUTE extremely likely that someone is climbing it and you will be on their way, rock fall possible from the top, and its 4 raps instead of 3 if you chose the rap station Set: Ron Goldstone, 1994 FA: Sig Isaak & Kevin McLane (Ron Goldstone), 1995 | 85m, 3, 16 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.7 | ★ Karma Points
Start up a blocky corner with big holds. After clipping the first bolt, step left onto a right-facing slab. At the top of the slab, climb a steeper face on good holds, them move right to the anchor. Good climbing throughout. | 13m, 5 | Calabogie | ||
5.8 | ★★ Mr Clean
In the lower part of the cliff there is a nearly vertical about 9" wide pink dike that protrudes out from the rest of the cliff by an inch or two, and a bolt line running up it. Mr Clean climbs the dike, and face above, to anchors. FA: B. Winsborrow, 1992 | 16m, 5 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.7 | ★★ Burgers and Fries
FA: Jim Manuel, Ed Spat & Brian Denhertog, 1979 | 25m | Squamish | ||
5.8 | ★★ Quarryman
Protecting the boulder at the bottom is a good idea. Nice mellow climbing to a vertical section heading left into a great crack to the anchors. Good protection FA: Robin Barley & Chuck Mullard, 1981 | 25m | Squamish | ||
5.7 | ★★ Wisecrack
FA: Barry Wiseman, Bob Wilson & Terry Spurell, 1980 | 25m | Squamish | ||
5.3 | ★ Ground Zero
The middle bolt line up the cliff. Formerly an X trad route, now a very closely bolted sport route. This is a good lead for a beginning lead climber. FA: M Edwards & PK Leugn, 1983 | 25m, 10 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.10d | ★★ Tampon Applicator
The crux is at the roof, the 3rd bolt. Beneath the roof is a nice finger pocket for the left hand and then a nice layback for the right. Just above the roof line is a good right hand and then fire up and to the right of the 3rd bolt by a couple feet for a very good jug. Name stone at base suggests grade is 5.11a. | 13m, 5 | Calabogie | ||
5.7 | ★ Pull Up
From 'Flaky Flake', walk left along the cliff face, up and over a pile of scree then down again. There will be a slab with a wide zig-zagging crack going up to a ledge about 3m off the ground, with a small overhang about 1.5m above the ledge and a first bolt just above the overhang. Crux is pulling over the overhang, much harder if you are shorter than about 5'8". Then nice climbing up past 3 more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. | 18m, 5 | Calabogie | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Skywalker
1
5.7
30m
2
5.8
25m
3
5.7
30m
4
5.6
20m
5
5.4
30m
Bolted belay stations! A classic moderate that you can add some flare to if you want! To the right of Magic Carpet Ride, you'll find the very obvious clean start.
Walk off to climber's right. FA: Jeremy Frimer & friends, 2011 | 140m, 5, 6 | Squamish | ||
5.8 | ★★ Mosquito
Solid 5.8. Climb the finger-to-hand layback crack through a bulge to easier climbing above. FA: Jim Campbell & Alun Hughes, 1980 | 25m | Squamish | ||
5.6 | ★★ Neruda
The obvious twisting off-width crack to the right of the cave. Anchors. The grade has inspired much debate. FA: J. Cotter & R. Halka, 1983 | 8m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.4 | ★★ Route B
Start below the large thin flake. (It feels really solid, but I wouldn't put pro under it, it is large and thin.) Follow the obvious large crack to 2 bolts for anchors. Takes protection really easily -- a good route for a first trad lead. | 10m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.7 | ★★ Eagle's Nest
This newly bolted slab climb could top out onto Eagles Nest lookout. Hike up the slope past 'Coward's Way Out' and find the slab with glue in bolts on the left just where the trail levels off. The first 18 meters of this climb goes at about 5.5, maybe easier if you stay closer to the corner with one committing move to get to the anchor. Not 100% sure who set this, so a few more assents to confirm the grade would be appreciated. Also to add a name by the FA. FA: unknown | 20m, 10 | Calabogie | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade
FFA: Dean Hart FA: Ray Parker, 1982 | 20m | Squamish | ||
V0 | ★★ Gateway Arete
Sit start from the two sloping crimps under the arete. Climb up the arete. | 3m | Calabogie | ||
5.10c | ★★ City Folk
Suggested grades have ranged from 10a to 11a on this equivocal route. At odds are the bolt line and the obvious path of least resistance left of the roof. 10c seems an honest compromise between the two, but every step farther left probably drops the route a letter grade. FA: Ken Flagg, 2016 | 16m, 7 | Calabogie | ||
V2 | ★★ The Gate
Stiff for the grade, start low and follow crimps and rails to top. See the beta here: https://youtu.be/1Hn-1I4SOoA | 3m | Calabogie | ||
5.6 | ★ Ain't no wifey
About 20m past Shanti, glue-in bolts up a slab with a small tree at the base. Plaque labelling it as "Aint No Wifey 5.8 S", but grade is no harder than 5.6. FA: Petra Slivka, 2016 | 12m, 4 | Calabogie | ||
5.10a | ★★★ The Zip
Considered one of the finest 10a cracks in the bluffs. Amazing and sustained best sum it up. FA: Ward Robinson & Blake Robinson, 1979 | 20m | Squamish | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Neat and Cool
| 30m | Squamish | ||
5.11a | ★★★ Wicked Gravity
"Yadda yards yadda best sport climb in Canada......" Listen to the spray people say when they get off this pearler!Pumpy climbing on beautiful jugs and flakes. Absolutely classic..... FA: Joe Buscowski, 1984 | 22m, 8 | Lake Louise | ||
5.5 | ★ Shanti
Easy sport climb on the slab a couple meters right of stage right. Has a sign posted naming it and giving a grade of 5.8 -- but this climb is no harder than 5.5. (It is considerably easier than Phasers on Stun - 5.5.) A large rock has fallen from midway up the route. The remaining rock is not secure and avoiding it bumps up the difficulty. Still not 5.8 though | 13m, 5 | Calabogie | ||
5.7 | ★ Cheat Stick
A few meters right of "Ain't no wifey", another line of glue-in bolts run up the cliff. Plaque labelling as "Cheat Stick 5.8 S" at the base, but climb is no harder than 5.7. FA: Ken Flagg, 2016 | 14m, 6 | Calabogie | ||
5.5 | ★★ Route C
Start at a small corner a bit up and to the right of Route B, follow the thin crack to a corner in the upper part of the cliff, then on to 2 bolts as anchors. | 10m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.5 | ★ Flaky Flake
Start 11m left of the 2nd Easy Way Down, where the obvious zig-zagging crack goes up the cliff. Climb up, generally angling left for the first half, then right, finishing at the large pine tree. Numerous variations are possible. (The flake of the name now rests in pieces at the bottom, courtesy of Gyula Pech, autumn 1985.) Anchors. FA: R Halka & L Yanosik, 1975 | 18m | Calabogie | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Klahanie Crack
| 30m | Squamish | ||
5.11a | ★★ Meathooks
One of the most sort after 11's in the Bow Valley. Every hold is a jug with a few sequences gaining the lip and exiting it (crux). Ridiculously fun and pumpy! FA: Daren Tremaine, 1994 | 20m, 7 | Canmore | ||
5.7 | ★★ Cat Crack
FA: Tami Knight & Peter Croft, 1978 | 20m | Squamish | ||
5.6 | ★ (unknown 3)
Short route at the far right end of the cliff. Nice warm-up for the fairly stiff 5.8 routes on the rest of the cliff. | 12m, 3 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.8 | ★ Trauma Belay
Climb up blocky ledges to a slabbier head wall. (Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.) | 9m, 4 | Halton Region | ||
5.5 | ★ Bei Tageslicht
Start 3m left of the obvious Ein Kleines Nacht Klettern. Climb up flakes to and crack to an overhang. Pull over the bulge (crux) and up the headwall to anchors. (Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission.) | 11m, 6 | Halton Region | ||
5.10c | ★★★ Exasperator
1
5.10a
20m
2
5.10c
30m
FA: Jim Sinclair & Jim Baldwin, 1960 FFA: Eric Weinstein & Dave Nicol, 1975 | 50m | Squamish | ||
5.11a | ★★★ Pleasant Pheasant
| 22m, 7 | Squamish | ||
5.5 | ★ Route A
Start at the flaring narrow chimney, and climb past this (low crux) to a rock spike, then up an obvious series of cracks to 2 bolts for anchors at the top. FA: Mark Duval, 1970 | 10m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.9 | ★★ Butt Light
1
5.8
2
5.5
3
5.7
4
5.7
5
5.9
6
5.8
7
5.7
From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress. P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope. P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain. P5: move the belay across the ledge to a pair of bolts at the base of a large vertical flake corner. climb this then traverse broken ledges to a bolted anchor. P6: The money pitch! walk across the ledge to the end and mantle up, then climb the large chimney with good gear in the back to a tree anchor. P7: more broken low 5th terrain to a tree anchor at the top. FA: Sonnie Trotter, Lydia Zamorano & Ben Moon, 2010 | 190m, 7, 4 | Squamish | ||
5.10b | ★★★ Angel's Crest
1
5.10b
2
5.10b
3
5.10b
4
5.6
5
5.10a
6
5.5
7
5.10a
8
5.9
9
5.5
10
5.8
11
5.7
12
5.10a
13
5.8
Angel's Crest is a classic 5-star multi-pitch route that is one of the longest and most adventurous 5.10 routes on the Chief. This route ascends the "north arete", the entire ridge to the R of the North Gully.
The original final pitch moved up the face directly above and behind the crack of the previous pitch, avoiding the chimney. Alternate start to get around people:
FA: Les MacDonald, Hank Mather & Fred Beckey, 1962 FFA: D.Loecks, P. Charak, L. DuBois & P. Charak L. DuBois, 1975 | 600m, 13, 7 | Squamish | ||
5.7 | ★★ Boomstick Crack
1
5.7
2
5.5
FA: Jim Baldwin, Jim Sinclair & Poul Nielsen, 1961 | 60m, 2 | Squamish | ||
5.3 | ★ Back to the Wall
Start about 6m right of the Main Corner, and climb the face up to a 2-bolt anchor. Lots of variations possible. | 15m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.11d | ★★★ Rug Munchers
Perma-draws. Very nice athletic moves. FA: Dan Lillies, 2003 | 15m, 7 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.3 | ★ Crack and Block
Climb the obvious crack that leads to blocks about 3m right of the arete (Broken Corner). Variations around the "block" are possible. FA: unknown | 10m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.10a | ★★ Low Impact - Short
flake to intriguing face climbing FA: Pete Winter, 2004 | 15m, 6 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.6 | ★★ Bolt Line 1
The left-most bolt line on Spindrift wall. Opening moves to first bolt are a bit intimidating (consider a stick-clip), but real crux is when the route gets thin between bolts 2 and 3. FA: 2006 | 25m, 8 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.11a | ★★ Pieta di Roma
Stick clip? 3 bolts for this one. Gym like climb! FA: 1998 | 11m, 3 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.6 | ★ Paparazzi
Start between a pair of trees, just left of Little Flo. Short vertical start, to obtain the slab, then slab the rest of the way. Set: Matthew Usherwood, 2015 FA: Matthew Usherwood, 2015 | 14m, 4 | Calabogie | ||
5.10a | ★★ Judy's on the Drug Squad
Climb the right-facing crack and corner system on the right side of the overhangs. (Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission. Was originally graded 5.8.) | 16m, 7 | Halton Region | ||
5.7 | ★ One Up
About 2m left of Main Corner is a thin crack that leads up to a ledge and a continuation of the crack above the ledge. 2 Bolts as anchors. | 10m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.10a | ★ Madames Deconvience
Climb to a bolt under a roof, traverse left, up onto the face, then right around the blunt arete and up to the anchors. (Retro-bolted trad route, with FA's permission. Was originally graded 5.8.) | 15m, 7 | Halton Region | ||
5.9 | ★★ Up From the Bog
FA: 1960 | 18m | Squamish | ||
5.9 | ★★★ St. Vitus' Dance
1
5.7
2
5.8
3
5.8
4
5.9
5
5.9
6
5.5
Approach: Walk along the Mamquam Road up to the fire hazard sign and follow the trail through boulders to the first obvious climb. This is 'Calculus Crack Direct'. You want to head right around the corner.
Descent:
Or
| 150m | Squamish | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Slot Machine
1
5.9
32m
2
5.6
20m
2 pitches. crack climb.Bolted belays. Walk off to the left is fun in its own way. bring more 1-1.5"cams FA: Bob Milward & Jim Campbell, 1983 | 52m, 2 | Squamish | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Peggy
A prominent left facing corner 10m to the right of Arete and Ramp. Climb up to a square block. Pass it on the right, then continue up the corner, using the arete as desired. Finish up a short wall. Opening move onto the initial ramp is unusually difficult, then rest of the climb goes at a comfortable 5.5. FA: D Haumann & M Peer, 1959 | 25m, 1 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.10a | ★★ Public Enemy
FA: Peter Arbic, 1991 | 23m, 9 | Lake Louise | ||
5.8 | ★★ Frontside 180
1
5.7
2
5.7
3
5.6
4
5.7
5
5.8
6
5.7
7
5.6
8
5.8
9
5.4
10
5.4
Generously bolted route; bolts can be skipped and pitches linked. Bring lots of draws or be ok with run out to skip bolts in order to link pitches (all pitches are <25m, last 2 are ~10m each). Pitch: # bolts (does not include anchors) 1: 8 bolts? 2: 15 bolts 3: 11 bolts 4: 10 bolts 5: 11 bolts 6: 13 bolts 7: 5 bolts 8: 12 bolts 9: 3 bolts 10: 4 bolts FA: Toby Foord-Kelcey, James Foord Kelcey, Tess Egan, Jay Robinson & Kye Egan-Robinson | 220m, 10 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.3 | ★ Bolt Line 3
The 3rd bolt line on Spindrift Wall. Climb the face just outside the corner that is Arachnophobia. | 25m, 9 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.3 | ★ Inside Corner
Starts a meter or so right of Main Corner, then up onto a sloping ledge (ramp) and upwards to the corner above. 2 bolts for anchor. | 15m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.10c | ★★★ The Squamish Buttress
1
5.8
2
5.5
3
5.7
4
5.7
5
5.9
6
5.10c
7
5.6
From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress. P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope. P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain. P5: climb the vertical crack over some broken terrain to a tree anchor below the white 10c corner. \ P6: Thre wicked-looking steep, white corner. Jam and stem your way to the top! The top is the crux but can be easily aided with good gear. The fixed pin mentioned in guide books is long gone, but there are good nut placements instead. FA: Fred Becky, Henryk Mather & Don Claunch, 1959 FFA: Peter Charak & Joe Turley, 1979 | 210m, 7 | Squamish | ||
5.8 | ★★ Rambles
1
5.7
30m
2
5.7
30m
3
5.7
20m
4
5.8
10m
Start at the left side of the lower apron.
Can be linked into just two pitches. | 90m, 4, 6 | Squamish | ||
5.10c | ★★ Kigijiushi
Climbs directly above the toe of the slab on edges and pockets FA: Roger Chayer, 1992 | 25m, 8 | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.10c | ★★ It's 4:20 Somewhere
The best of its grade and a must-do at the crag. Sustained, thoughtful face climbing leads to one last puzzle before the chains. As of May 2021, permadraws have been installed at the anchor. | 15m, 6 | Calabogie | ||
5.10b | ★★ Turtle Mountain
FA: Mark Whalen, 1992 | 25m, 7 | Lake Louise | ||
5.10b | ★ Breakfast Cookie
A bit to the left of "Phasers on Stun" are a couple new bolted lines, this is the one on the left. It goes up easy climbing to the first bolt, then winds its way through a series of roofs/bulges to anchors on the right side of a prow at the top of the cliff. Currently (summer 2012) there is a small rock at the bottom with the name (Breakfast Cookie) and a grade (5.10b) on it at the bottom. FA: Lenke Burke, 2012 | 11m, 5 | Calabogie | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Laughing Crack
Well protected finger crack. You could probably climb it with just nuts. FA: Glenn Payan, 1995 | 25m | Squamish | ||
5.10a | ★★ Plum Line
FA: Howie Richardson, 1989 | 34m, 10 | Skaha | ||
5.8 | ★★ 40 Foot Smurf
Immediate left of Sidewinder, up a very chunky looking sector of cliff following a zig-zag bolt line to the anchors.Climb up to stance above first bolt, then finesse your way right through the right leaning ramp/corner. Back left to a good stance above second bolt. Straight up the clean rock on positive holds to anchor. This route is 4 stars if you avoid all the big but ugly hold on left. | 16m | Mont Rigaud | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century
Set: Anders Ourom FA: Peter Croft & Tami Knight, 1978 | 15m | Squamish | ||
5.6 | ★★ Phasers on Stun
Start directly behind a cedar tree at the base of the cliff. There is a distinctive curving crack around a bulge 7m up the face. Climb straight up to this crack, continue up to a small roof, then traverse left 2m under the roof. Either continue traversing left to an easy exit, or climb straight up through the a notch in the roof ( a bit harder, maybe 5.6). Anchors. FA: L Yanosik & R Halka, 1975 | 18m | Calabogie | ||
5.10b | ★ On the road again
Exciting climbing throughout. Clip the awkward final bolt, catch your breath on the ledge, then make the spooky step out right onto the slab that leads to the anchor. Marker at the bottom of the climb. | 15m, 6 | Calabogie | ||
5.6 | ★ Little Flo | 16m, 6 | Calabogie | ||
5.8 | ★★ Bilbo Baggins
Climbs just left of the corner that "Sour Grass" climbs -- pick one of two starts to a left-slanting crack and follow this. | 15m | Squamish | ||
5.6 | ★ Awkward Overhangs
Start 5m to the right of the "2nd Easy Way Down". Really low first bolt, climb past one roof, up a slab, then pull another steep section on big holds. Probably more like 5.8 in modern grades. FA: M Buck & D Buck, 1984 | 11m, 7 | Calabogie | ||
5.8 | ★ Ethics Police
Climb up over a section of fractured rock to smoother slab then a small oval cave. Continue up past the cave to the top anchors. (Rap rings.) Very high first bolt -- gear nice at the start, but not needed thereafter. Can be climbed sport if you don't mind the high-ball start. FA: S. Montgomery, 1992 | 16m, 4 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.5 | ★ Sunday Morning Stroll
There is a cluster of 5 (oak) trees at the base of the cliff. This climb starts just up and left of the cluster of trees. This climb starts up initially over a series of blocky ledges, following generally easy climbing, and eventually passing left of the bulges near the top of the cliff. FA: Helen Tsai, 3 May 2015 | 25m, 11 | Lac Sam | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Tintin au Tibet
Crag classic with medium to long line-ups on weekends. | 20m, 8 | Kamouraska | ||
5.8 | ★ I'm a Doctor, Not a Climber
Somebody has, apparently, added 3 bolts to this trad climb, making it purely a sport climb. Just around the arete of 'Vulcan Mind' direct is a series of 4 bolted routes. This is the first of them, going up some overhanging terrain at the start, eases off, then pulls a final small roof. (No longer needs a few cams or tricams (red, brown, optional black).) | 18m, 6 | Calabogie | ||
5.3 | ★ Main Corner
The obvious "main corner". 2 bolts for an anchor at top. FA: S Heiberg & D Weichert, 1961 | 15m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.8 | ★★ Pixie Corner
FA: Joe Buszowski & Paul Fodchuck, 1978 | 15m | Squamish | ||
V3 | ★★★ Beautiful Odyssey
Start matched on big rail and traverse right and up. See beta here: https://youtu.be/gXy_GLCOpU0 | Calabogie | |||
V3 | ★★★ The Bullfighter's Friend
Start on the lowest of the sloping holds on the left side of the face. Climb up and exit on the left. | 3m | Calabogie | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Snake
1
5.7
2
5.7
3
5.9
4
5.9
5
5.9
6
5.7
| 220m, 6 | Squamish | ||
5.9 | ★ (unknown 2)
Bolt route squeezed in between "Ethics Police" and "Mr Clean". Occasionally borrows holds from each. Goes at about 5.9 if you wander around a bit. Direct finish, up the smooth slab, probably harder, maybe 5.11ish? | 16m, 5 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
5.11b | ★ Serpentine
1
5.7
2
5.11b
5.7 Slab to right of judgement day to the first anchors and 5.11 to the second anchors. FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz & Tibor Hargitai, 1997 | 12m, 2, 6 | Beaver Valley | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Rock On
1
5.8
35m
2
5.8
20m
3
5.9
20m
4
5.10a
50m
5
5.7
15m
FA: Hamish Mutch & Bob Woodsworth, 1966 FFA: Peter Croft & Aaron Johnstone, 1981 FFA: Bob Milward & Jim Campbell, 1983 | 140m, 5 | Squamish | ||
5.8 | ★ Esmerelda
Bolt route to the right of "I'm a Doctor, Not a Climber", climb the up past the left edge of the low roof though a slight notch, then up easier ground to anchors. Run-out from last bolt to anchors, but easy ground or protectable with gear. | 15m, 4 | Calabogie |