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Brohm Dome

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 27

Access: June 2022 Update, Rock Closures due to Rock Fall at The Chief

Latest Closure Update:

Grand Wall closure area reduced, Grand Wall (5.11a A0) and Exasperator (5.10c) are now open.

Grand Wall boulder closure reduced to cover just the debris field

North Walls

Darkside Boulders and Angel’s Crest reopened, Debris field and all routes between Alaska Highway and Parallel Universe closed.

After rock scaling and dealing with danger trees we are happy to say that BC Parks have reduced and removed some of the closures.

Our understanding is that before reopening any of the remaining closures BC Parks is working on signage and assessing liability. Neither the North Walls or Dihedrals rockfalls would be easy to address through scaling. Squamish Access Society is advocating that the areas are reopened with climbers taking responsibility for their decision to enter them.

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 4 weeks ago

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Description

The Brohm Dome is a new crag with sport routes from 5.8-5.13, and trad routes from 5.9-5.11. The majority of sport routes are concentrated in the

5.11-5.12 grade range. The crag is West facing, so it is shaded till midday. In the afternoon it receives decent shade from a number of large trees, and it's a great evening crag when it's not too hot. Many of the routes in the middle of the wall do seep significantly after prolonged rain, but there are routes at either end of the crag which dry more quickly. All routes at the crag can be climbed with a 60m rope. Routes are generally closely bolted, so bring plenty of draws, and small cams are important on most of the trad routes.

Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Routes

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Grade Route

The leftmost route at the crag features a dynamic move through the small roof.

FA: Rick Willison

Short but nice climbing on basalt-type rock. A little sting at the end.

FA: Rick Willison

One of the best routes at the crag. Great face climbing on edges. Probably many a first 13.

FA: Rick Willison

Another classic. Can be a little hard to read but great fun wrestling through the small caves.

FA: Robyn Richard

Follow the broken crack as it weaves to the top of the wall. Hand jamming proficiency helps immensely.

FA: Robyn Richard

Climb up to and across a wickedly thin angling seam.

FA: Robyn Richard

Start in the weakness to the left of Cobra Chicken and follow the left treading seams. Very nice!

FA: Rick Willison

To the right of "Too Cool for Homeschool"

FA: Rick Willison

Shares the first 2 bolts with MIN and follows the crack left

FA: Tess Egan & Jason Robinson

Shared start with MIA and shares anchors with KOTM. Nice slabby face climbing and pretty good edges.

FA: Tess Egan & Jason Robinson

Starts left of SW and shares anchors with MIN. Trickyness at the bulge leads to easier climbing above.

FA: Rick Willison

Unlock the corner and you'll be treated to some really nice climbing on good edges.

FA: Rick Willison

Technical and slabby. Be prepared to do some smearing at the crux while hanging on to some razor sharp edges

FA: Yogi Urbano

Set: Rick Willison

Reminiscent of the classic sandstone climbing of the blue mountains. Very good

FA: Rick Willison

Yet another technical crux. A little scrambly at the end to gain the anchors.

FA: Rick Willison

Another technical face climb to add to the list. Crimpy!

FA: Rick Willison

The wide crack up the dramatic corner. Single Rack 0.3 to #3, Triple #3, double #2

FA: Nicky Price

Set: Harry Young & Alex Ryan Tucker

A striking arete formed from fantastic stone. A unique feature for Squamish. Climbs more like sandstone. Amazing

FA: Robyn Richard

Easy climbing leads to a perch at the bottom of the arete. From here, move right onto the face, where spicy moves through thin features protected by very small gear leads to the upper crack. Single Rack 0.2 to #2, double 0.3-0.5

FA: Alex Ryan Tucker

Bouldery start with good but spaced locks and sparse feet leads to a balancey section and easier finish. Single Rack 0.2 to #2, double 0.3-0.75

FA: Alex Ryan Tucker

The leaning jagged crack is not trivial. It features the same beautiful and unique fine grained stone as the other routes on the wall. Single Rack 0.2 to #3, double 0.3-0.75

FA: Alex Ryan Tucker

Lots of big holds on the easiest route at the crag. Could use a little brush if you get on it, this line grows over quick. Lots of fun

FA: Alex Ryan Tucker

Similar in difficulty to its neighbour with the exception of a defined crux just past the halfway mark.

FA: Alex Ryan Tucker

A low crux gaining the face and then a couple of bouldery moves leads to easier climbing on small edges.

FA: Alex Ryan Tucker

Desperate moves off the ground on barely there holds. Stick clip recommended.

FA: Rick Wilson

Fully bolted but in need of a rescrub, this line is open for anyone interested. Expect wickedly thin climbing in the range of 5.12+ to 5.13. Let Robyn Richard, Alex Ryan Tucker or Rick Willison know if you send.

Set: Robyn Richard

Work your way up through the obvious jugs to the opening of the crack, then follow it to the top. It takes good but small and slightly fiddly gear. Single Rack 0.2 to 0.75

FA: Alex Ryan Tucker

Climb to the end of the left facing crescent shaped crack, and boulder out a tough sequence past the bolt. Move right to join HEZ at the undercling. Single Rack 0.2 to 0.75

FA: Alex Ryan Tucker

The juggy leaning crack features wonderful pockets. If only it was longer! Single Rack 0.2 to #3

FA: Willow Rigsby

A hard start meets some traversing crack features. Pretty fun. Stick clip!

FA: Rick Wilson

A very bouldery start is followed by an excellent hand crack. The top half weaves back and forth and features some fun exposure as you move toward the arete. Single Rack 0.1 to #3, Double 0.4-#1

FA: Evan Gammage

The furthest right route at the crag protects well and features a cool transition from one crack to another at the crux. Exercise caution around some of the big flakes on the right side. Double Rack 0.3 to #1, Single #2 and #3

FA: Alex Ryan Tucker

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