A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Joe Langwald (大石头) Bing Ian 溫翊恩 Shadow Maksim Komarov 任狐 DavideT 翻天娃 蘑菇 阿牛
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Joe's Valley 25 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Joe's Valley 25 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
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All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 30.370963, 119.640112
- OSM已更新,新旧两条上山路都标记了。主流的走法是:过桥后马上从小路上山,岔路靠左斜切到新修栈道。 如果开车,可以停到栈道起点路边,会近不少。
- 停车场百度地图定位
- 2013-14 电子路书 供参考。注意:有些信息不准确,包括难度和Midlands和White China的挂片数,请以这里的更新过的信息为准。
access issues
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Mojito / 莫吉托
A meter from the top are two hangars. For those wanting to top rope this route use these. For leading and cleaning continue up to the ledge where there is a ring anchor set. Good spot to practice repeling. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 1 Nov 2022 FA: Yelena González, 7 Nov 2022 | 5.9 | 20m, 9 | |||||
2 |
"Put Down Your Phone" / 放下手机
A great route to introduce brand new climbers to climbing outdoors. Very easy start to this route to help build up confidence and encourage them to keep on going. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2022 FA: Wenting, 2023 | 5.7 | 13m, 5 | |||||
3 |
小蜜蜂 / Little Bee
夹角左侧 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 7 Nov 2022 FA: 魏勇, 26 Nov 2022 | 5.8 | 21m, 8 | |||||
4 |
★ Pip Pip
夹角右侧 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Apr 2021 | 5.10b | 12m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★ Beer Budget
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Apr 2021 | 5.10a | 18m, 8 | |||||
6 |
★★ Viva le Sand P1
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021 | 5.10c | 33m, 14 | |||||
7 |
★★ Viva le Sand
Climb both pitches together all the way to the top. Make sure when lowered to stop at the ledge where first pitch anchors are located. Safety yourself, pull the rope, thread the rings and lower to ground from here. OR climb as a proper multi pitch route. Good ledge at first set of anchors to belay from. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021 | 5.10c | 53m, 2, 23 | |||||
8 |
★★ Hey Princess P1
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021 | 5.9 | 15m, 5 | |||||
9 |
★★ Hey Princess
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Apr 2021 FA: 汤泯, 30 Apr 2021 | 5.10b | 50m, 2, 21 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
★★ Bits and Bobs P1
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021 | 5.10b | 15m, 8 | |||||
11 |
★★ Bits and Bobs
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021 | 5.10c | 33m, 2, 19 | |||||
12 |
★★ Tiramisu / 提拉米苏
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021 FA: Ale, Jun 2021 | 5.10b | 25m, 11 | |||||
13 |
Kick Out the Jam P1
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2021 FA: Rob, Nov 2021 | 5.10b | 21m, 9 | |||||
14 |
★★ Kick Out the Jam
Don't climb too far past the last bolt before turning around, looking behind you, up and to the left for an anchor set. You can stop here or keep on climbing to the top, which I recommend doing. The lower anchor set is there for people wanting to top rope the bottom half of this route. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2021 FA: Rob, Nov 2021 | 5.10b | 35m, 18 | |||||
15 |
★★ Re-Do
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2021 FA: Michael Picone, 20 Nov 2021 | 5.11c | 24m, 11 | |||||
16 |
★ Like a Lizards Elbow P1
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2021 | 5.11c | 24m, 11 | |||||
17 |
★★★ Like a Lizards Elbow
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2021 | 5.11c | 35m, 2, 19 | |||||
18 |
★★ Nasi Goreng
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2021 FA: Rizki Tarisa, Nov 2021 | 5.10b | 23m, 11 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
19 |
★★ 肉夹馍 / Hot Stuffed
Use whatever it takes to get to the anchors: slab in front, wall behind, and boulders to the left. This route is unlike any other at Lion's Head. A very physical, full body experience. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021 FA: 任狐, 27 Dec | 5.11+ | 17m, 9 | |||||
20 |
★★ Cold Sliced
A 70m rope will let you climb these two pitches as one. Highly recommend this climb for it's unique moves, holds and setting. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021 FA: Maksim Komarov, 7 Jan | 5.10+ | 17m, 10 | |||||
21 |
Project
This route is very technical and delicate slab climbing at it's finest. Use any holds on the slab, clipping route #22 hangars, but staying clear of the arete on the far right. The arete on the right side is off of this route; it cannot be used at any point. Who'll be the first to bag this hard FA? Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021 | 5.13+ | 17m, 8 | |||||
22 |
★★ 软柿子 / Easy Meat
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021 FA: 任狐, 27 Dec | 5.12- | 17m, 9 | |||||
23 |
Snakes and Ladders
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 1 Dec 2021 FA: Guy Healey, 12 Dec 2021 | 5.10- | 16m, 7 | |||||
24 |
★★ 接力
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021 FA: 魏勇, 6 Jan | 5.10+ | 17m, 8 | |||||
25 |
Healer
Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 3 Dec 2021 FA: Guy Healey, 12 Dec 2021 | 5.9 | 15m, 6 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.7 | "Put Down Your Phone" | 13m, 5 | |||
5.8 | 小蜜蜂 | 21m, 8 | |||
5.9 | Healer | 15m, 6 | |||
★★ | Hey Princess P1 | 15m, 5 | |||
Mojito | 20m, 9 | ||||
5.10- | Snakes and Ladders | 16m, 7 | |||
5.10a | ★ | Beer Budget | 18m, 8 | ||
5.10b | ★★ | Bits and Bobs P1 | 15m, 8 | ||
★★ | Hey Princess | 50m, 2, 21 | |||
★★ | Kick Out the Jam | 35m, 18 | |||
Kick Out the Jam P1 | 21m, 9 | ||||
★★ | Nasi Goreng | 23m, 11 | |||
★ | Pip Pip | 12m, 4 | |||
★★ | Tiramisu | 25m, 11 | |||
5.10c | ★★ | Bits and Bobs | 33m, 2, 19 | ||
★★ | Viva le Sand | 53m, 2, 23 | |||
★★ | Viva le Sand P1 | 33m, 14 | |||
5.10+ | ★★ | Cold Sliced | 17m, 10 | ||
★★ | 接力 | 17m, 8 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ | Like a Lizards Elbow | 35m, 2, 19 | ||
★ | Like a Lizards Elbow P1 | 24m, 11 | |||
★★ | Re-Do | 24m, 11 | |||
5.11+ | ★★ | 肉夹馍 | 17m, 9 | ||
5.12- | ★★ | 软柿子 | 17m, 9 | ||
5.13+ | Project | 17m, 8 |