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Joe's Valley Guide

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 80

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Joe Langwald (大石头) Bing Ian 溫翊恩 Shadow Maksim Komarov 任狐 DavideT 翻天娃 蘑菇 阿牛

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Joe's Valley 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.370963, 119.640112

access issues

  • OSM已更新,新旧两条上山路都标记了。主流的走法是:过桥后马上从小路上山,岔路靠左斜切到新修栈道。 如果开车,可以停到栈道起点路边,会近不少。
  • 停车场百度地图定位
  • 2013-14 电子路书 供参考。注意:有些信息不准确,包括难度和Midlands和White China的挂片数,请以这里的更新过的信息为准。
inherited from 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mojito / 莫吉托

A meter from the top are two hangars. For those wanting to top rope this route use these. For leading and cleaning continue up to the ledge where there is a ring anchor set. Good spot to practice repeling.

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 1 Nov 2022

FA: Yelena González, 7 Nov 2022

5.9 Sport 20m, 9
2 "Put Down Your Phone" / 放下手机

A great route to introduce brand new climbers to climbing outdoors. Very easy start to this route to help build up confidence and encourage them to keep on going.

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2022

FA: Wenting, 2023

5.7 Sport 13m, 5
3 小蜜蜂 / Little Bee

夹角左侧

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 7 Nov 2022

FA: 魏勇, 26 Nov 2022

5.8 Sport 21m, 8
4 Pip Pip

夹角右侧

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Apr 2021

5.10b Sport 12m, 4
5 Beer Budget

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Apr 2021

5.10a Sport 18m, 8
6 Viva le Sand P1

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021

5.10c Sport 33m, 14
7 Viva le Sand

Climb both pitches together all the way to the top. Make sure when lowered to stop at the ledge where first pitch anchors are located. Safety yourself, pull the rope, thread the rings and lower to ground from here. OR climb as a proper multi pitch route. Good ledge at first set of anchors to belay from.

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021

5.10c Sport 53m, 2, 23
8 Hey Princess P1

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021

5.9 Sport 15m, 5
9 Hey Princess

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Apr 2021

FA: 汤泯, 30 Apr 2021

5.10b Sport 50m, 2, 21
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Bits and Bobs P1

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021

5.10b Sport 15m, 8
11 Bits and Bobs

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021

5.10c Sport 33m, 2, 19
12 Tiramisu / 提拉米苏

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021

FA: Ale, Jun 2021

5.10b Sport 25m, 11
13 Kick Out the Jam P1

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2021

FA: Rob, Nov 2021

5.10b Sport 21m, 9
14 Kick Out the Jam

Don't climb too far past the last bolt before turning around, looking behind you, up and to the left for an anchor set. You can stop here or keep on climbing to the top, which I recommend doing. The lower anchor set is there for people wanting to top rope the bottom half of this route.

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2021

FA: Rob, Nov 2021

5.10b Sport 35m, 18
15 Re-Do

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2021

FA: Michael Picone, 20 Nov 2021

5.11c Sport 24m, 11
16 Like a Lizards Elbow P1

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2021

5.11c Sport 24m, 11
17 Like a Lizards Elbow

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2021

5.11c Sport 35m, 2, 19
18 Nasi Goreng

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2021

FA: Rizki Tarisa, Nov 2021

5.10b Sport 23m, 11
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 肉夹馍 / Hot Stuffed

Use whatever it takes to get to the anchors: slab in front, wall behind, and boulders to the left. This route is unlike any other at Lion's Head. A very physical, full body experience.

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021

FA: 任狐, 27 Dec

5.11+ Sport 17m, 9
20 Cold Sliced

A 70m rope will let you climb these two pitches as one. Highly recommend this climb for it's unique moves, holds and setting.

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021

FA: Maksim Komarov, 7 Jan

5.10+ Sport 17m, 10
21 Project

This route is very technical and delicate slab climbing at it's finest. Use any holds on the slab, clipping route #22 hangars, but staying clear of the arete on the far right. The arete on the right side is off of this route; it cannot be used at any point. Who'll be the first to bag this hard FA?

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021

5.13+ SportProject 17m, 8
22 软柿子 / Easy Meat

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021

FA: 任狐, 27 Dec

5.12- Sport 17m, 9
23 Snakes and Ladders

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 1 Dec 2021

FA: Guy Healey, 12 Dec 2021

5.10- Sport 16m, 7
24 接力

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021

FA: 魏勇, 6 Jan

5.10+ Sport 17m, 8
25 Healer

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 3 Dec 2021

FA: Guy Healey, 12 Dec 2021

5.9 Sport 15m, 6

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.7 "Put Down Your Phone" Sport 13m, 5
5.8 小蜜蜂 Sport 21m, 8
5.9 Healer Sport 15m, 6
Hey Princess P1 Sport 15m, 5
Mojito Sport 20m, 9
5.10- Snakes and Ladders Sport 16m, 7
5.10a Beer Budget Sport 18m, 8
5.10b Bits and Bobs P1 Sport 15m, 8
Hey Princess Sport 50m, 2, 21
Kick Out the Jam Sport 35m, 18
Kick Out the Jam P1 Sport 21m, 9
Nasi Goreng Sport 23m, 11
Pip Pip Sport 12m, 4
Tiramisu Sport 25m, 11
5.10c Bits and Bobs Sport 33m, 2, 19
Viva le Sand Sport 53m, 2, 23
Viva le Sand P1 Sport 33m, 14
5.10+ Cold Sliced Sport 17m, 10
接力 Sport 17m, 8
5.11c Like a Lizards Elbow Sport 35m, 2, 19
Like a Lizards Elbow P1 Sport 24m, 11
Re-Do Sport 24m, 11
5.11+ 肉夹馍 Sport 17m, 9
5.12- 软柿子 Sport 17m, 9
5.13+ Project SportProject 17m, 8
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