A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Šemnice u mostu / Špačkárna / Anstand - Schömitz Egerbrücken
64 in Crag
- 1.1. Špačkárna / Anstand 10 in Cliff
- 1.2. Západní / Westfels 4 in Cliff
- 1.3. Skříň / Schrank 11 in Cliff
- 1.4. Sluneční / Sonnenfels 8 in Cliff
- 1.5. Boulovatá / Beulenfels 9 in Cliff
- 1.6. Hlavní masiv / Hauptmassiv 22 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Šemnice u mostu 64 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.257845, 12.959128
Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)
Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)
Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)
Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)
- principles of sport climbing (climb with the help of your own strength only, don't use artificial aids, etc.)
- principles of first ascents and installing fixed protection
- competence of regional climbing commissions of Czech Mountaineering Association (list)
- prohibition of creating and chopping holds
- which type of removable climbing gear is allowed and don't damaging rock (roped knots, slings, ufos vs. friends, wires, hexes, nuts and cams)
- possibilities of using chalk (strictly prohibited vs. tolerated)
- restrictions resulting from weather conditions (e.g. prohibition of climbing on wet rock (eventually hours or days after rain or during winter)
description
Guidebook - 2013 - KOCOUREK, Jaromír a SIKA, Jiří. Skalní oblasti v okolí Ostrova. Horolezecký průvodce. 2013. 15 s. (czech) (topo - only 'Špačkárna')
Description - Lezec.cz (czech)
Description - Český horolezecký svaz (czech)
The rock consists of hard, strongly structured granite with siliceous inclusions.
The climbing walls were secured with drilling and adhesive hooks, but a range of wedges, friends and loops should not be missing.
access issues
Nature protection
Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them. 
Where to check:
or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz
approach
(Do not block roads!
ethic
Rules, principles and standards
Rock climbing in the Czech Republic is regulated by the rules, principles and set of standards for individual areas and crags. Please respect local traditions and rules.
Accept and make yourself familiar with:
Rules:
1.1. Špačkárna 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.246889, 12.954616
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Jednička
FA: 2008 | 5 | 11m, 3 | |||
| 2 |
Dvojka
FA: 2008 | 5 | 11m, 3 | |||
| 3 |
★★ Trojka
FA: 2008 | 6+ | 11m, 2 | |||
| 4 |
★★ Čtyřka
FA: 2008 | 5+ | 11m, 2 | |||
| 5 |
★★ Pĕtka
FA: 2008 | 6 | 14m, 3 | |||
| 6 |
★ Šestka
FA: 2008 | 7+ | 13m, 2 | |||
| 7 |
Sedmička
FA: 2008 | 5+ | 15m, 2 | |||
| 8 |
Osmička
FA: 2008 | 5 | 8m, 1 | |||
| 9 |
Devítka
FA: 2008 | 5+ | 8m, 1 | |||
| 10 |
Ranní rozcvička
FA: 2011 | 3 | 13m | |||
1.2. Západní 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.247586, 12.956530
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Prdel
FA: 2010 | 6- | 18m, 1 | |||
| 2 |
★ Spára
FA: 2010 | 4+ | 18m, 2 | |||
| 3 |
★★ Finta
FA: 2010 | 4+ | 18m, 2 | |||
| 4 |
Plotýnka
FA: 2010 | 3 | 15m | |||
1.3. Skříň 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.247321, 12.957857
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Vosí
FA: 2010 | 3+ | 18m, 1 | |||
| 2 |
★★ Strašpytel
FA: 2010 | 4+ | 18m, 1 | |||
| 3 |
★★ Nebojsa
FA: 2010 | 4+ | 18m, 1 | |||
| 4 |
Výšlap
FA: 2010 | 3 | 15m | |||
| 5 |
★★★ Vzpomínka na O. Štiku
FA: 2010 | 6 | 15m, 2 | |||
| 6 |
★★★ Pro Rosomáka
FA: 2010 | 5+ | 14m, 2 | |||
| 7 |
★★ Vzpomínka na P. Hrnčíře
FA: 2010 | 6+ | 14m, 2 | |||
| 8 |
★ Gotická
FA: 2010 | 4+ | 12m, 1 | |||
| 9 |
★ Ucho
FA: 2010 | 5+ | 11m | |||
| 10 |
Netopýří
FA: 2010 | 3+ | 10m | |||
| 11 |
Pro Maa
FA: 2010 | 3- | 9m, 1 | |||
1.4. Sluneční 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.246961, 12.958328
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Západní
FA: 2010 | 3- | 17m, 1 | |||
| 2 |
Za sluncem
FA: 2010 | 4+ | 18m, 1 | |||
| 3 |
★ Sluneční hrana
FA: 2010 | 4- | 18m, 1 | |||
| 4 |
★ Bloudivá
FA: 2010 | 3- | 18m | |||
| 5 |
★★ Sluneční
Středem stěny (bh) ke slanění. FA: 2010 | 3 | 18m, 1 | |||
| 6 |
Kout
FA: 2010 | 3 | 18m | |||
| 7 |
Přes zub
FA: 2010 | 3+ | 18m, 2 | |||
| 8 |
Hubeňour
FA: 2010 | 4+ | 18m, 2 | |||
1.5. Boulovatá 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.246970, 12.958910
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Zelená
FA: 2010 | 3- | 14m | |||
| 2 |
Boulatá
FA: 2010 | 3 | 14m | |||
| 3 |
★ Kostka
FA: 2010 | 5 | 12m, 1 | |||
| 4 |
EV Kostka
Wandstufe zu schräger Rampe und Originalweg z.A | 3 | 12m, 2 | |||
| 5 |
★ Krystal
FA: 2010 | 5 | 12m, 1 | |||
| 6 |
Malinová
FA: 2010 | 3+ | 12m, 1 | |||
| 7 |
Pilířek
FA: 2010 | 3 | 12m, 1 | |||
| 8 |
★ Rybí
FA: 2010 | 4 | 12m, 1 | |||
| 9 |
Koutek
FA: 2010 | 3 | 11m, 1 | |||
1.6. Hlavní masiv 22 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.246799, 12.959222
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Vyhlídková
Linke Kante an BH vorbei zu Umlenker rechts. FA: 2010 | 2 | 30m, 1 | |||||
| 2 |
★ Pĕt plotýnek
Rechts der linken Kante. FA: 2010 | 5- | 28m, 4 | |||||
| 3 |
Necky
FA: 2010 | 4+ | 26m | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ Dařbuján
Položenou prstovou spárkou v levé části plotny (2 bh) a přímo ke slanění. FA: René Gebrle & Jaromír Kocourek, 2010 | 5- | 27m, 2 | |||||
| 5 |
★★★ Pandrhola
Asi dva metry vpr. od cesty 'Dařbuján'. Podél nevýrazné hranky a pak poklopenou stěnkou. FA: René Gebrle & Jaromír Kocourek, 2010 | 4+ | 27m, 2 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Baldachýn
FA: 2010 | 4+ | 25m, 2 | |||||
| 7 |
Nebeská
FA: 2010 | 4+ | 24m, 2 | |||||
| 8 |
Na medvĕda
FA: 2010 | 5+ | 23m, 3 | |||||
| 9 |
★ Po schodech
FA: 2010 | 4 | 23m, 1 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Pro Dášu
FA: 2010 | 5- | 20m, 3 | |||||
| 11 |
Kout
FA: 2010 | 2 | 20m | |||||
| 12 |
★ Pro Eriku
FA: 2010 | 4+ | 20m, 2 | |||||
| 13 |
★★★ Sluneční
FA: 2010 | 5 | 23m, 2 | |||||
| 14 |
★ Pro Naďu
FA: 2010 | 5 | 23m, 3 | |||||
| 15 |
★★ Pohodová
FA: 2010 | 5+ | 23m, 3 | |||||
| 16 |
★★★ Pocuc
FA: 2010 | 6+ | 11m, 3 | |||||
| 17 |
Relí
FA: 2010 | 4+ | 11m, 3 | |||||
| 18 |
Koutek
FA: 2010 | 3+ | 11m, 3 | |||||
| 19 |
Divná
FA: 2010 | 3+ | 12m, 1 | |||||
| 20 |
Spárka
FA: 2010 | 2 | ||||||
| 21 |
Dubová
FA: 2010 | 3+ | 16m, 2 | |||||
| 22 |
★ Manta
FA: 2010 | 4+ | 16m, 2 | |||||
