A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
vilda_hkvdfThe size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Bivaková stěna / Biwakwand 10 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Bivaková stěna 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.798080, 14.040890
Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.
No changing of the rock surface.
No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.
No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)
First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/
Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.
access issues
Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:
TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP"). If no "RP" is written, only the JPK grading is known and you may expect anything.
Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system (see grading in description).
ethic
Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Široko
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIIa FA: Petr Slanina, J.Švadleňák & A.Adamová, 2012 | VIIIa | 1 | |||
| 2 |
Tajemný Em / Geheimnisvoller Em
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIc FA: Petr Slanina, J.Švadleňák & A.Adamová, 2012 | VIIc | 2 | |||
| 3 |
Tleskačovo kolo / Tleskačs Reigen
FA: Petr Slanina & J.Švadleňák, 2012 | VIIIb | 2 | |||
| 4 |
Ruční spára / Handriss
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa | VIIa | ||||
| 5 |
★ Cikánova cesta / Zigeunerweg
FA: Stanislav Lukavský & J.Voves, 1993 | VIIc | 3 | |||
| 6 |
Údolní spára / Talriss
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VI | VI | ||||
| 7 |
Malý koutek / Kleine Verschneidung
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VI FA: Jan Voves & S. Lukavský, 1993 | VI | ||||
| 8 |
Plotýnka / Plättchen
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa FA: Stanislav Lukavský & J.Voves, 1993 | VIIa | 1 | |||
| 9 |
Cesta z bivaku / Weg aus dem Biwak
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VI FA: Stanislav Lukavský & J.Voves, 1993 | VI | ||||
| 10 | Druhé přelezení / Zweite Durchsteigung | IV | 1 | |||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| IV | Druhé přelezení | 1 | |||
| VI | Cesta z bivaku | ||||
| Malý koutek | |||||
| Údolní spára | |||||
| VIIa | Plotýnka | 1 | |||
| Ruční spára | |||||
| VIIc | ★ | Cikánova cesta | 3 | ||
| Tajemný Em | 2 | ||||
| VIIIa | Široko | 1 | |||
| VIIIb | Tleskačovo kolo | 2 |