Ascents in Europe as sport by o_g

Another classic long pitch. A 70m rope will get you to the ground from the top anchor.

Nice route, not sure why people dont seem to be climbing it (im only going by the lack of ticks on thecrag). Long, sustained, with the crux battling the pump to get to the chain. Do yourself a favour and get on it.

Classic may be a slight stretch, but I had a blast on this. Probably the route I have enjoyed most on this trip. Takes a fingery slabby wall, then climbs a 20m long single tufa system that gets fatter the higher you go. I only just managed to catch its tail, and layback up it to a rest, then had moments of indecision on the steep fingery crux on its left wall, before hurling myself onto its back in a moment of desperation, and somehow sticking on then riding the annaconda to the chain

Every climber on the island seemed to be at this crag today (mostly seiging tufa king pumped). No one on verikoko though! It was really balancy and sequency at the top. Thought I was off a couple of times, but held it together.

The crowds departed and there was a rare period of time when this route is not being seiged. Had a nervous moment up high pulling into a wet slab, but held it together. Totally classic climbing. Looks from the ground to be a bit contrived (very close to a 5c bridging corner that you could use for a rest) but doesn't feel like it when climbing.

Great effort to o/s this. Really hard, really pumpy, stuck with it and got there by the skin of my teeth. Then cruised kerveros..... 7a?

A bit of routefinding and restfinding required. Crux where it should be, right at the top.

Some seepage low. Enjoyable. Funky wide bridging.

The extension has good climbing, but is a bit bouldery.

Real fight for the o/s. Thin and hard for first 4 bolts, then pump management as the incut pockets arrive. Managed to find a mono pocket thumb jamb rest that saved the day. Cant say thats ever happened before. Bit sweaty in 31 degrees and in the sun.

Amazing. I would give it a rare megaclassic rating if it didnt have 5m of easy ramp at the start. Pocket after pocket after pocket. Wow. Didnt feel much harder than the 6b+ warm ups. Might be just that the moves are more obvious and better chalked.

1st pitch only. Was going to link it into Animal.

While others focused on the iconic tufa routes in the centre of the crag, I focused instead on the techy bridgy slabby goodness on the right. This felt tough for the grade.

Didnt look like much from the ground, but interesting and super technical steep slab.

Some poxy rock down low, and the bolts are starting to look pretty rusty. Nice climbing in the tufas in the top half.

Excellent sustained climbing. Almost came off the top, when I went a bit high before moving right. Just able to reverse and recomsider. Classy Freddie Blassie.

Another sweet looking line. Managed to somehow fluke my way through the crux, then hid in the corner above trying to see bolts on the line above. Finally concluded that there were not many bolts in the top half of the route, and as such it must be easy...... And it was! Sweet.

Got through the crux rootlet with some flexibility testing high stepping. Then weaved up the tufa system. Thought it was in the bag at the top of the tufa. Looked for the usual jugsto the chain..... No jugs..... Grey bulge with small crimps. Big problem! Just managed to squeek through. Felt hard for the grade to me.

Pretty amazing. Basically climbing horizontally out through a nest of giant tufa. The chain clip was epic. I ended up grabbing them to clip. Would be a better route if the chains were lowered. Cleaning was nails!

A chossy route on the far right. Beggars can't be choosers when it's a busy day. All the difficulty packed into the last 5 metres. Pulled to hard on a pocket. Ouch.

Grim technical slabbing for the first half. Almost fell of the steep tufa up high when a foot slipped clipping. Would have been messy.

Much more sustained than tanzmarie. You need to read the top right to get it done.

Rock looks a bit dirty / grotty from the ground, and while clean, there is something about the rock on the route that is a little unpleasant. Climbs well though. The initial thin wall looks blank from the ground, but has big holds that are reachy. The rooflet and sidepull wall above required some commitment.

Fingery crux at the bottom, then a bouldery crux up high. Had to drop the clutch on the high crux.

Matt loved it! The seat and thin pipe above the seat are ace.

Long and sustained. I guess i wasnt as injured as I thought. Sweet!

Technical slab to start, then easy till high overhang. Harder moves, but less pumpy than Satyros.

Maybe a sandbag at 6c+, or maybe just not a good warm-up. Probably my best tick of the trip. Highly technical climbing on good rock. Same difficulty all the way.

The thought crossed my mind near the top of this route that it might be the best pitch ive ever climbed. A full 40m of pockets, some filled with quartz crystals, a leaning overhanging arapalies like corner at the top. Get on it.

Some helpful person had left their draws on the route and had it nicely tickmarked. Excellent route.

Awesome extension. Found this pretty pumpy, and only had just enough juice to hold on to the small holds where it slabs over at the chains.

Steep bouldery start, then a balancy wall with some sharp holds.

Jezus. Thought id continue up this for the warm up. Felt absolutly nails hard, thought I was off three times. Ended up wedged in a prickly trench trying to recover before fighting to the chains drencehed in sweat. Possibly not the ideal warm up. Although I cant deny I was warm after it.

Really had to think through the sequency crux at 3/4 height.

Tidy.

Not bad. Like a lot of the routes on this wall, you need to ooze and udge your way through a few sections.

Afternoon re-warm up. Got me warm alright. Had to crack pretty hard on a back two two finger pocket at 1/3rd height which was a shock to the system. The overhanging top half was awesome. incut jugs for the win.

Finally, a balancy wall climb! Nice to be able to take time and think through sequences.

Classic continuous off vertical face climbing on open dishes and pockets.

Cool tufa column features. Not as positive as they look from the ground.

Thought I would continue up the extension as it looked good. Nice fingery complex face climbing. A few grades harder than what I was expecting.

Assumed the guidebook, which said 30m and 29 quickdraws, was wrong and took 20 quickdraws. It was wrong, but not about the number of draws. Looks like the anchor has been moved higher, and it's now a 40m pitch. Ordinary first 10 metres, then classic climbing above that.

Technical wall climbing on small positive crimpy side pulls. Clips are a bit tricky.

Great climb, and a viable warm up. Builds in difficulty to a crux on smallish holds up high.

Looks like it has been cleaned and (re?) Bolted very recently. Really interesting climbing up a number or flake systems. Quality will improve as the dust clears from the cleaning.

Brutal boulder problem start, stick clipping bolt 1 a good idea. Felt hard for the grade.

Quality reduced by the last 10m of rambling slab. Excellent first part. Lots of technical shallow pocket sequences between good rests.

Brilliant as soon as it steepens. Feels classy moving between pockets.

Fun overhang, but sharp unpleasent rock.

Technical and thin. Felt crazy hard, but last route of long day.