Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Montanejos | ||||||
Los Estrechos La Yedra | ||||||
6c | ★★★ mortadelo y mi flemon | 35m | ||||
35m. Varied fine climbing on subtle unchalked holds and tiny feet.
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Montanejos | ||||||
Carretera de Montán Barranco París-Dakar Laberinto de los Dragones | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Me enamoré de una bombera | 25m | ||||
Several pumpy sequences on medium holds. Love the feet. Thanks Kiki.
Technical |
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Alto Mijares | ||||||
Hoz del Mijares Obras Selectas | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Greim | 35m, 13 | ||||
Nice pockets that go diagonally left. Then brutal with determining polished hands and soapy feet. Thanks Kiki.
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7a | ★★★ El Poema | 27m, 9 | ||||
Megapopular. More schlager than poem. Steep fun on juggy pockets. Fantastic view.
|
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7b | ★★★ Como un sueño | 25m, 9 | ||||
Like a dream. ❤️ Just before dark.
|
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Montanejos | ||||||
Carretera de Montán Barranco París-Dakar Laberinto de los Dragones | ||||||
6c | ★★ Reunión de camión | 25m | ||||
Varied. Tricky puzzles.
|
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Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Montanejos | ||||||
Barranco de la Maimona Pilas alcalinas | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Relics | 30m, 11 | ||||
Steep line on reachy jugs. Act quick and don't hold back on strange dropknees.
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6b+ | ★★★ La dama de la guadaña | 30m, 6 | ||||
Restday for the toes. Sorry biceps.
|
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6c | ★★★ Coyote | 30m, 9 | ||||
Steep, gradual and flowy.
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Wed 14th Feb 2024 - Jérica | ||||||
Pared de Enfrente Huajalotes | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Utopia | 20m, 9 | ||||
Vertical slab that constantly keeps you on the edge. Sweet funky moves. Perfect. Ultraclassic in the grade.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Agua de mayo | 20m, 10 | ||||
Very good rock. Tricked by the start.
2nd Go |
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7a | ★★★ Lost on you | 38m, 17 | ||||
L1+L2 (35m). Very nice. Builds up slowly, eventually demanding funky moves and a hard to read end. Thanks Kiki.
|
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Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Pantano Chorreras | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ El Magnate del tomate | 40m, 19 | ||||
L2 runs between two majestic drapestones and is really good. My onsight got killed early in L1, in which it is harder to find the flow and bet on the right tufa.
2nd Go |
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Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Pantano Oasis | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Pasajeros del Silencio | 35m | ||||
Everything seemed the crux. Sustained. Mean straightwall boulders. Actually nice for their style. Thanks Kiki.
Hard |
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Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Pantano Chorreras | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Sendero Luminoso (right-ext) | 50m, 30 | ||||
Magical journey that goes 50 meters up on bigger-than-life tufas, with eventually no trace of chalk. Highly recommended adventure, especially at dusk all alone in the canyon.
|
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7a | ★★★ Sendero Luminoso | 37m | ||||
No reason not to extend this beauty!! Ok having a short rope is a reason.
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Long dong John | 38m, 16 | ||||
Vertical climb between dramatic tufas.
|
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Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Chulilla Town Muro de las lamentaciones | ||||||
6c | ★★ El ramallito | 35m, 16 | ||||
Classic must-do long 6c.
|
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7a | ★★★ Blue agave | 35m, 17 | ||||
I grew too trustful for Chulilla's polished feet and zip off early while clipping. Later comes a treacherous end. Pretty nonetheless. Thanks Kiki. No thanks slippery foot.
2nd Go |
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7a | ★★ Son Daas | 35m, 17 | ||||
Toe- and fingertipnigthmare, can't stay! Blank wall ahead! Aaaaaah..... Foreward anyway! Again and again, like this from the middle to the top.
Hard |
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6c+ | ★★ Contacto con el space | 35m, 16 | ||||
Good once the routes split. Not as coherent as the sector's eponymous line that goes left, but very good nonetheless, with some dire moments. Thanks Kiki.
|
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6b | ★★ Yorkshire pudding | 35m, 15 | ||||
Surprisingly tricky start meters.
Hard |
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Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Chulilla Town Muro de las lamentaciones | ||||||
6c/c+ | ★★★ Presiscrack | 35m, 14 | ||||
Dramatic crackflakedihedral. Really cool. Comparable in grade and style to Freyr's (Belgium) Liedekerke and Love Me Tender.
|
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Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Chulilla Town Pared de Enfrente Sex Shop | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Dale Duro Negro | 32m, 16 | ||||
Hyperbolic route. Aesthetic climbing 👌.
Soft |
||||||
Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Chulilla Town Muro de las lamentaciones | ||||||
7a | ★★★ El muro de las lamentaciones | 35m, 16 | ||||
Absolutely stunning. Long continuous route on 'gouttes d'eau'. Just perfect. Dancing. Toes are less enthusiast though.
|
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Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Chulilla Town Pared de Enfrente Sex Shop | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ La Diagonal | 70m | ||||
Big fun fissure with cavities. The polished feet don't spoil it. Thanks Kiki.
|
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Thu 8th Feb 2024 - Buñol | ||||||
Carcalín Corral de Cabras | ||||||
7b | ★★★ La semilla del riesgo | 22m, 10 | ||||
Must-do on this bright orange wall. Pretty tough boulder early on. And delicate resistance climbing all the way, on narrow slopery stuff.
|
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6c | ★★ La maños | 15m, 8 | ||||
Yes! Weird and elusive the entire way up. Magic if it works. Glad i didn't fall because i would never have figured how to get back in. Buñol seems to be the anti holiday grade place.
Hard |
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6b | ★★★ Els Bunyolers | 20m, 9 | ||||
Techy and tricky on small stuff. Welcome to Corral de Cabras. Goodbye simple pop climbing.
|
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Wed 7th Feb 2024 - Cocentaina | ||||||
Mas de la Penya Sector 3 | ||||||
6c | ★★ Por Tutatis | 35m | ||||
More jugs in one route than in a whole year in Belgium.
Soft |
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Wed 7th Feb 2024 - Cocentaina | ||||||
Mas de la Penya Sector 1 | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Ultims pases | 37m, 18 | ||||
Generous beautiful pillar. So much climbing in this one. Thanks Kiki.
|
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Wed 7th Feb 2024 - Cocentaina | ||||||
Mas de la Penya Sector 3 | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Mora | 32m | ||||
MAGNIFICENT. Blobby flake/dihedral that goes on for 35m. Felt mean in the scorching sun, having to put in 17 draws. Once over, I felt like I ran a 15km comp with a sprint right before the finish. Probably took as long. Skyhigh wall in a sacred place, full of life.
|
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Mon 5th Feb 2024 - Vallada | ||||||
Tierra de Nadie | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Big Bang | |||||
Long and a few times interesting. One of my favourites here.
|
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7a+ | ★★ Aegalis | |||||
Good one with great tufas! Keeps serving ergonomically shaped jugs. Max grade V in the 1930's (...like most routes here, which might explain the incredible popularity).
Soft |
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7a | ★★★ Enigma | |||||
Waw! 38 vertical meters of jugs except for one puzzly moment. Cool cruisy climbing. Thanks Kiki.
Soft |
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6b | ★★ El gendarme | |||||
Maybe 6a
Soft |
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6c | ★★★ Resistant | |||||
More like 6b?
Soft |
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6b+ | ★★ Coralis | |||||
Baffling crystals. Thanks Kiki.
|
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Bellus-Alboy | ||||||
Altet Estiu desplom | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ El trapecista | |||||
Far-stretching physical moves on hurting holds, with an awkward climax. Did a left handjam, bomber enough to make your hand purple, cross over to the awkward drag and layback. Hard, but can't agree that it's harder than Hierbas on the right. Thanks Kiki.
2nd Go |
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Bellus-Alboy | ||||||
Altet Estiu placa | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Pere flac | |||||
No chalk traces. Real route finding in a natural beauty (if you find the flow), Céüzian style 😍 (perfect minimal subtle feet on a vertical slab like in the Pont sur l'Infinit sector).
|
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Tue 7th Nov 2023 - Siurana | ||||||
Siuranella Est-Nord | ||||||
6c | ★★ Border Line | 30m, 12 | ||||
Dance like a snake the entire way up. Too perfect.
|
||||||
Mon 6th Nov 2023 - Siurana | ||||||
La Reina Mora | ||||||
7a | ★★ Chapas Jom | 15m, 6 | ||||
Short route on microfeet and crimps. Thanks Wim and Sabine.
Soft |
||||||
6b+ | ★ Mambo | |||||
Very nice delicate intro to the esoteric crimpy sector.
|
||||||
7a | ★★★ Perigeo | 35m, 15 | ||||
Speaking line. Deviant moves needed aaaall the way up. No crimps. Thanks Kiki.
Soft |
||||||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Siurana | ||||||
Grau dels Masets Baix | ||||||
7a | ★★ No hi ha pa per tant xoriço | 27m | ||||
There is no bread for so much chorizo. Monster compared to other 7a's here. Can I log it as an 8a? Did I do smth wrong? It starts with an elusive crimpy boulder. Higher up I stranded on the blank wall with shallow microscopic monoholds, and feet small enough to think you're floating. And when I finally managed to reach up.. just more nothingness again? So you crimp the holdless void crying out for jezus. Thanks Kiki.
Hard |
||||||
7a | ★★ Sac de Gemecs | 25m, 10 | ||||
Logical natural line following the vertical flat holds along the microfracture. Three times awkward but still straightforward Siurana climbing. Thanks Kiki.
Soft |
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Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Siurana | ||||||
Espero Primavera | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandrágora | 35m | ||||
35m smooth Siuranian climbing.. Felt like hours passed. I was in trance. Violent wind gusts wanted to sweep me off, some soft rain fell, but you don't want to let go of this beautiful route. Thanks Kiki. (tried it years ago)
Soft |
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Mon 30th Oct 2023 - Mixnitz | ||||||
Weiße Wand Unterer Sektor | ||||||
8+ | ★★ In die Berg | 30m | ||||
All jugs. The chipped one in the crux is hard to expect there. Thanks Hans.
2nd Go |
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Fri 20th Oct 2023 - Rochers du Néviau | ||||||
Secteur Cosmos | ||||||
6b | ★★ Le Cosmos L1+L2 | 55m | ||||
The original superpumpy and direct 50m-line on heavenly Dolomite: L1 by the acrobatic left (the newer right variant is less hard and continuous) + L2 (runout with great awkward riddly big moves over intimidating roofs and flakes). Thanks Brecht.
Hard |
||||||
Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Porche de Roiseux | ||||||
7c+ | Le moineau à la dalle et au bloc | |||||
The second 7c ★★★★★ + the final boulder of the 8a+ ★★★★★. Lovely combo! Very natural!
|
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Ettringen | ||||||
Ettringer Lay Grosser Bruch Kühlschrank Kelle | ||||||
7+ | ★★★ Der Hulk | |||||
Fantastic! Long crack. Always thought it was called Der Shrek, either way the mossy rock makes you green. Key is to place minimal protection (3 small cams on top of 3 bolts) and speed over the bulging crux by dülfering on shallow jams.
|
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Ettringen | ||||||
Ettringer Lay Grosser Bruch Försterwand Schiffsbug | ||||||
7+ | ★★★ Mettwürstchen | |||||
Full trad. Allegedly the oldest line in Ettringen (1995?). Amazing skyscraping dream crack. The final bulge brings a flaring handcrack all the way at the end which is an awkward mean onsightkiller.
2nd Go |
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Ettringen | ||||||
Ettringer Lay Grosser Bruch Dürener Wand Dürener Wand | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Kondensstreifen | |||||
Full trad. Short intense unruly crack in a boltfree paradise. Thanks HansDW.
|
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Ettringen | ||||||
Ettringer Lay Grosser Bruch Kühlschrank Ritual | ||||||
7+ | ★ Master of Turbation | 10m | ||||
Full trad. Short and straightforward for a VII+ crack in Ettringen. Aucune Plaquette, Der Hulk, Mettwürstchen and Kondensstreifen are significantly harder in so many ways. And Dreckriss is much harder.
Trad |
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Porche de Roiseux | ||||||
7b+ | Une trappiste pour le fossile | |||||
Vertige de l'amour ★★☆☆☆ + Final boulder sequence of the 8a+ ★★★★★. Today it felt harder than it should. The season is ending, the seepage is kicking in.
|
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Roche aux Corneilles (Bomal) | ||||||
6b | Timber | |||||
Same start as the other 6b (Le Noze) but then traverses further above the river and goes higher, offering varied Freyrian complexer climbing and ambiance all the way, lovely! Probably not bolted for falling.
|
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Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Manikia | ||||||
North Face Nagawika | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Gyristike sto skotádi | 20m | ||||
Eng: Shot in the dark. Preferred it over the left one, though I ripped a long flappy along the side of my pinkie from a dynamic move over sharp broccolis..
|
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Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Manikia | ||||||
North Face Eldorado | ||||||
7c | I viasyni vorela L1 | 30m | ||||
Eng: Flash Flood. One of the routes I'll always remember. Long line with magnificent drapes. This will be one of the biggest classics of Manikia.. Double send with Hans! 2d/4t
|
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Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Manikia | ||||||
Upper Valley Le Bal Con | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Brokolo | 25m | ||||
Supposed to be the soft 7a+ here while Golo would be the hard 7a+. Seems vice versa to me. Brokolo surprises finally with this nasty 6 à 7 move sequence on scattered crimps which are not at all fantastic. Thanks Kiki.
|
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7b | ★★ I Kravgi tis voskis | 25m | ||||
24m/12pts. Eng: The Cry of the Shepherd. Three times I went through the eye of the needle.. Middle crux sequence is long. Pinchers, sidecling slopers and feet on friction in a slight overhang. Disconcerting enough that you don't forget your moves. Thanks Hans.
2nd Go |
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6c | ★★★ Bouzouki | 25m | ||||
Let's get physical.
|
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Manikia | ||||||
North Face Nagawika | ||||||
6c | ★★ Gemisto kalamari | 15m | ||||
Eng: Stuffed Squid. Awkward moves while the sharp broccolis grate your hands like cheese, but make breaky crispy sounds when you go spagaat on them. Thanks Kiki.
|
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Manikia | ||||||
North Face Moonikia Project | ||||||
7b | TNT | 30m | ||||
30m/16pts. Hipturner! Spicy in the middle between the two curtains. Riddly in the top traverse on those slightly overhanging dripstones. Thanks Hans for the draws, French and Swiss folks for cheers and Kiki for belay.
|
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6b | ★★ Moonikia Project | 25m | ||||
Pleasant line where you can keep a good pace, no cruxes, very readable moves. Thanks Kiki.
|
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6c | ★★ Riff Raff | 30m | ||||
Spagaatopolis in the upper part. Thanks Kiki.
|
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6b+ | ★ Oh Nosokomio | 28m | ||||
Good. Thanks Kiki.
|
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Vrysi | ||||||
Pehnidia | ||||||
6c | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 10 | ||||
One interesting sharp crimpy boulder.
|
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Vrysi | ||||||
White Wall | ||||||
6b | ★★ 34.5 | 25m | ||||
23m/14pts. Nice. Consistently gentle and vertical. They didn't have to chop down that bonsaï though. Nonetheless thanks for the bolts. Thanks Kiki for belay.
|
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Berdorf | ||||||
Tempête | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Tempête | 17m, 7 | ||||
Stays consistent in its style: reasonably technical with monos, without being delicate. Good! I failed it big 5 years ago, right after sending my first 7b here. Thanks Kiki.
|
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Maizeret | ||||||
7a | ‘t Tuinaanleggerke | |||||
They call this a sandy contrived onemovewonder few people do. Thanks to Isi's beta it turned out to be a continuously interesting line with a genious crux: left foot as high as your right locking off hand, left hand gaston shouldermove, right foot up delicately, turn the locking off crimping right hand and push, the left hand is free to gently go for the narrow but bomber ledge.
Technical |
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Les Aiguilles Rouges | ||||||
Le Brevent | ||||||
6b | ★★ La Piste Oubliée | 170m | ||||
170m straight vertical face. The Piste Oubliée (forgotten line) was totally free and climbed truely nicely. The hyped one-grade-easier neighbor line had a line of 6 people waiting already for 1,5h at the bottom. Thanks HansDW.
|
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6b | ★★★ Ex-Libris | 200m | ||||
Trad multipitch in a 150m massive dihedral. L1: big moves. L2: initially delicate to climb and protect. L3: tricky layback to start. To continue the style and difficulty L4 and L5 can be made spicier by diverting into the crux crack (the crax) that tops off Retour à la Bretagne (6b+). Alternated lead. Thanks HansDW.
|
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Wed 30th Aug 2023 - Carrière des Awirs | ||||||
La Face nord & Faucons | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Doublevision | |||||
Two crux sequences. Imagine this short route going on like that.. triple vision, quadruple vision, quintuple vision, sextuple vision... 🤩. Thanks Tom.
|
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Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Plain des Fosses | ||||||
Rocher de la Nausée | ||||||
7b | ★★ Led Zeppelin | |||||
Bit discontinuous, bit chipped, but some beautiful moves, great challenge. Seemed impossible last year, now tabula rasa, put the draws in and figured out moves, then rushed and fucked up my way through, improvising sketchy moves, felt like a second go. Thanks HDW.
|
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Eiszeit | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Eiszeit | 38m | ||||
Fun! And all alone here. Progressively harder line, from vertical to steep, with finale on pinches, gastons and semi-good pockets. Putting in the few draws is pumpy. Originally it was 7b. Could be? 42m/12pts. Thanks Kiki.
Endurance |
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Flône | ||||||
7b+ | Infinity Cracker | |||||
Mean but cool dülfer/mantle-crux to go into L2. 7b+ in topo. After a tropical and wet week we were given a short weather window on a drizzly summer evening. Thanks Kiki. 1d/2t
Soft |
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Berdorf | ||||||
Infernale | ||||||
7c | Killing in the Name | |||||
Went feet first with a funky kneebarsloper above my head, then rotated all the way up over it, boom, right at the pockets. Thanks Liuba. 2d/4t
Soft |
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Lehmriss | ||||||
7 | ★★ Spreizfuß | 25m, 7 | ||||
Supercool crackdihedral testing your calm. Thanks Kiki.
|
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Illumina | ||||||
7+ | ★ Falk-en-Route | 40m, 17 | ||||
40m and interesting all the way! You don't expect such gems in a quarry. Though do expect some black balls of daddy longlegs here and there. Thanks Kiki.
|
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Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Porche de Roiseux | ||||||
8a | Du Glucose Pour Le Moineau (M1) | |||||
Fighting up this crazy roof was like dancing amidst the clouds.❤️ Huge thanks to Hans, Dave, Linus and Tom whose beta inspired me a lot. Big shout-out to Kiki for the belay and the blitz morning visit. And credits to Benjamin Piraprez for opening Glucose in 1993.
|
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Tue 11th Jul 2023 - Berdorf | ||||||
WTC7 | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ WTC7 | 20m | ||||
Nice flowy climbing with some rests. Thanks Kiki.
|
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Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Carrière des Awirs | ||||||
La Face nord & Faucons | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Echelle de Pierre | |||||
Cool moves and full of surprising stuff to fight with. Should have fallen in every hard part, f***ed up my way through while the rain poured and there was no soul around. Thanks Daan.
2nd Go |
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Mon 19th Jun 2023 - Carrière des Awirs | ||||||
La Face nord & Faucons | ||||||
7a+/b | ★★ Toothless | |||||
Crimps out of the roof and then I found crispy fingerjams all the way up, no onsights yet, typical Belgian classic. Thanks Nico.
|
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Wed 31st May 2023 - Rochers de Mozet | ||||||
Arendsmassief / Rocher de l'Aigle | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Pebbles | |||||
Bloc - That felt good!! What a treasure cove of obscure pinches, just find the ones you like. No one onsighted yet? Thanks Wim.
|
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Mon 1st May 2023 - Berdorf | ||||||
Infernale | ||||||
7b | ★★ Gincobiloba | 12m, 6 | ||||
Juicy starting boulder on overhanging slopercrimps. Then sweet kneebars and endurance. I had grandiously failed to make anything of Ginco every year since 2018, 'till now. Thanks Nico
|
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Flône | ||||||
7a+ | The Sandbagger | 32m | ||||
Race against your exploding toes in this ode to the obscure dark art of blank slab climbing. Climaxing runoutish final. Thanks Kiki for elusive beta.
|
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Rochers de Freyr | ||||||
Les Cinq Ânes | ||||||
7b | Ligne de Fuite | 20m | ||||
Knocks you off your feet. In my onsight I would sooner believe in the Easter Bunny than in this high blank wall. But the line just hides its treasures better than our long-eared friend. Thanks Kiki.
|
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Sun 19th Mar 2023 - Hotton | ||||||
Rochers amont | ||||||
7a | ★★ L'Elisabeth | |||||
Another one of Belgium's finest ballerina slabs. Thanks Kiki and Dave.
2nd Go |
||||||
Fri 17th Feb 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Cami de la Presa Culample4 | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Fanàtic | 30m | ||||
Festival of bad holds that gets extra nasty near the end. Soapy. I'd prefer to have climbed more in Foraster.
Hard |
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6c | ★★ La Vía del Blas | 30m | ||||
Cool.
|
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Wed 15th Feb 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Les Espadelles La Mainadera | ||||||
7b | Muffmallows | 17m, 8 | ||||
Bibendumy overhanging journey with a great crack and then topout. Burning in the sun I was heavy like an elephant. Thanks Hans.
|
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6c | ★★ Sobredosi de rocaina | 17m, 8 | ||||
Good!
|
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7a | ★★ Baby sitter | 18m, 8 | ||||
A muerte pocketpulllingfest in three stages. Thanks Hans.
|
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Tue 14th Feb 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Cami de la Presa Culample4 | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ El Pancho | 25m, 10 | ||||
Loved it 3 bolts in and it only got better. Continuously funky on good holds. Thanks Hans.
|
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7b+ | ★★★ Bésame Mucho | 26m, 12 | ||||
Vertical museum of groovy semiholds that are spaced out. First try it felt impossible. I remembered one move and wished it was possible after maybe a handful of sessions? Third go i gave it all. First cruxy cut loose, then dropknee, Hansi beta, woopie, woopie, cross over way over head, ever far, sketchy, felt totally spent halfway, again far, quick feet, not really a one-move-wonder, more like a 100-move-wonder, then at the last lip I was shaking for the second time like a washing machine, Woutie talked some sense into me, the Colorado girl later said I was talking to my left arm, made it all look very hard. Thanks Hansibär for the belay! Thanks to the whole crew! 1d/3t
|
||||||
Sun 12th Feb 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Cami de Sant Salvador MVP | ||||||
6c | ★ Paja Carradine | 10m, 4 | ||||
Blobby tufa. Topo says 6c. Thanks Hans.
|
||||||
7a | ★★ Fotofobia | 10m, 4 | ||||
Fun blue boulder in Font. Thanks Hans.
2nd Go |
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Sun 12th Feb 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Cami de Sant Salvador Raco De La Finestra | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Sancho Pancho | 22m, 8 | ||||
Sustained buildup to a far shallow mono/bido. Adjust the feet. Pop dynamic to a thing and then finish, delicately on something sloping. Big fight for me. Beauty that demands good finger warmth management. Thanks Hans.
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Sat 11th Feb 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Cami de la Presa Can Regino | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Rock and Vol | 25m, 10 | ||||
Pocket fun. Thanks Hans.
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Sat 17th Dec 2022 - Rochers de Freyr | ||||||
L'Al Lègne Troucage | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Question d'Honnêteté | 30m | ||||
Subject of a big bolt debate. Bolt had been placed and again removed multiple times. Now QOH is back in its oldschool state. Anyway. First bolt high and tricky without stickey, but tolerable. To the second high point I worried more: some subtle insecure glue-to-a-blank-wall-moves with serious grounderpotential. After the fourth bolt follows a technical power-traverse. Then after the fifth it's runout and full of ambiance while you're glued to the wall and have to find the subtlest holds by touch, feels like a whole route between those two bolts. Then a technical traverse to the left and eventually fine sequences 'till the end. So much climbing in one route. AMAZING! Today trees were all white and spikey and ice caps floated on the river, while Al'lègne beamed in the sun. I felt so much more holds this time. Thanks Simon.
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