Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
FR:8c+/9a | ★★★ Era Vella
FFA: Chris Sharma, 2010 | 45m, 20 | Margalef | ||
FB:8B+ | ★★★ Dreamtime
World's first 8C! In 2002, Dave Graham repeated it by finding a different solution. He used a heel-hook to make the brutal start sequence easier, and downgraded the problem to easy 8B+. Most of the following repeaters, including Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Daniel Woods adopted Graham's solution and agreed with him about the grade. Repetitions
Links FA: Fred Nicole, 2000 | Cresciano | |||
{FB} 8B+ | ★★★ The Dagger
Sit start. FA: Toni Lamprecht | Cresciano | |||
FR:9a+ | La Rambla
The original route was bolted in 1993 by Alexander Huber. First ascension: Alexander Huber in 1994. Assigned grade was 8c+ (length: 35 m). Daniel Andrada added a 6 m extension and the climb is known as La Rambla/La Rambla Direct/La Rambla Extension. Grade: 9a+ (length: 41m). This is the full length of La Rambla and includes the traverse after the first anchor. It connects to the anchor of La Reina Mora. Climbed by Margo Hayes in 2017 making her the first woman to climb a confirmed 9a+. Set: Dani Andrada & Alexander Huber FFA: Ramón Julián Puigblanque, 2003 | 41m, 17 | Siurana | ||
{FB} 8B+ | ★★★ Unendliche Geschichte | Magic Wood | |||
{FB} 8B | ★★★ Steppenwolf | Magic Wood | |||
FB:8B | ★★★ Vecchio Leone
FA: Fred Nicole, 2005 | Brione | |||
FR:9a+ | ★★★ Papichulo
A resistance 50m route with limited rests, perfect rock and a sketchy slab finish. Ascents
| 45m | Oliana | ||
FR:9a+ | ★★★ Biographie
In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole pitch and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year. Around 2007 the anchor chains marking the end of the route which Arnaud Petit climbed were removed from the wall. In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way. Since then, Sharma has said that "most of the time I actually call the route Biographie". Ascent History:
| 40m | Céüse | ||
FR:9a | ★★★ Estado Critico
The scene of some very impressive ascents. 3rd shot by a 14 year old Ondra at 8c+ then, after a hold broke, Megos made the first ever 9a onsight (if you don't count some 9a's previously onsighted but downgraded by Ondra). Set: Dani Andrada FA: Ramon Julian, 2004 | 40m | Siurana | ||
{FB} 8A+/B | ★★★ One summer in Paradise | Magic Wood | |||
{FB} 8B+ | ★★★ New Base Line | Magic Wood | |||
{FB} 8B+/C | ★★★ Practice of the Wild
FA: Chris Sharma, 2004 | 5m | Magic Wood | ||
FR:8c+/9a | ★★★ Underground
Starts on the right side of the cave, enters it and exits in the center.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gP9ZOuJB7X0 Depending on the climber the grading varies between 8c+ and 9a. It was initially graded 8c+ by Manfred Stuffer, but in 2000, Yuji Hirayama suggested 8c+/9a. In 2002, Tomas Mrazek and Christian Bindhammer suggested 9a. Alex Megos suggested a downgrade in 2020 after he flashed it back to 8c+ or 8c+/9a. Set: Gerhard Hörhager FA: Manfred Stuffer, 1998 FFA: Yuji Hirayama, 2000 | 25m | Valle del Sarca | ||
{FR} FB:8B | ★★★ Delusion of grandeur
FFA: Dave Graham | Chironico | |||
FR:8c+/9a | ★★★ Esclatamàsters
A hold broke in summer 2015 and it is now more likely a 9a. Set: Salva Serrano FA: Ramon Julian, 2006 | 40m | Perles | ||
FB:8B+/C | ★★★ The Kingdom | Brione | |||
{FR} FB:8B | ★★★ Boogalagga
FA: Bernd Zangerl | Chironico | |||
FB:8B+/C | ★★★ Off the wagon
FA: Nalle Hukkataival, 2012 | Sonlerto | |||
FR:9a | ★★★ Fuck the System
Above Digital System. Set: Dani Andrada FA: Patxi Usobiaga, 2007 | 30m | Santa Linya | ||
{FB} 8A+/B | ★★★ Riverbed | Magic Wood | |||
FR:9a/a+ | ★★★ Thor's Hammer
Shares anchor with "Nordic Plumber". Set: Magnus Midtbø FFA: Adam Ondra, 2011 | Flatanger | |||
FR:9b | La Planta de Shiva
Described by Jonathan Siegrist as "Absolutely incredible route with no place to hide. Resistant like hell." The route links a section of 8c into a steep and crimpy upper half to create a 45-meter endurance test-piece. It was the first 9b to be freed by a female climber: Angy Eiter. Set: Manolo Del Castillo, 2006 FA: Adam Ondra, 2011 | 45m | Villanueva del Rosario | ||
FR:9a+ | First ley
FA: Chris Sharma, 2010 | 15m, 9 | Margalef | ||
FR:9a | ★★ Joe Cita
Joe Blau into Marroncita Extension FA: Jakob Schubert | Oliana | |||
FR:8c+/9a | ★★★ A Muerte
FA: Rich Simpson, 2006 | Siurana | |||
FR:8c+/9a | ★ Jungle Speed
FA: Daniel Jung, 2010 | 15m | Siurana | ||
FR:9a/a+ | ★★★ Gancho Perfecto
Repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi (6/4/2018). Set: Chris Sharma FA: Chris Sharma, 2008 | Margalef | |||
{FB} 8B+/C | ★★ Ill thrill
FA: Paul Robinson, 2010 | Magic Wood | |||
FR:9a+ | Joe Mama
Set: Joe Kinder FA: Klemen Bečan, 1 Mar 2016 | Oliana | |||
FR:9a+ | ★★★ Pachamama
Set: Chris Sharma FA: Chris Sharma, 2009 | 50m | Oliana | ||
FB:8B+ | ★★★ Tomba
FA: Jimmy Webb | Sonlerto | |||
FB:8B+ | ★★★ Heritage | Sonlerto | |||
FR:9a | ★ Pure Dreaming
Variant of "Reini's Vibos". FA: Adam Ondra, 25 Feb 2018 | 30m | Valle del Sarca | ||
FR:9a | ★★ Ciudad de Dios
FA: Edu Marin, 2009 | 25m | Santa Linya | ||
FR:9a | ★★★ La Cabane au Canada
9 July 2013 - Onsighted by Adam Ondra. Set: Didier Berthod FFA: Lionel Clerc, 2006 | 30m | Rawyl | ||
FR:9b | ★★★ La Capella
Repeats by Stefano Ghisolfi (13/01/2018) and Daniel Woods (25/02/2018). Set: David Brasco & Carles Brasco, 1995 FA: Adam Ondra, 2011 | 15m | Siurana | ||
{FR} FB:8B | ★★ The great Shark Hunt
FA: Dave Graham | Chironico | |||
FB:8B | ★★★ Elephunk
FA: Vincent Pochon | Fontainebleau | |||
FB:8B+ | ★★★ Gecko (assis)
FA: Olivier Lebreton | Fontainebleau | |||
FB:8B | ★★ White stripe | Brione | |||
FR:9a | ★★★ Jungfraumarathon
FA: Simon Wandeler | 20m | Lütschinentäler | ||
FR:9a | ★★★ Martin Krpan
Starts in 'Strelovod', ends in 'Konec mira' | 28m, 13 | Mišja Peč | ||
FR:9b | ★★★ Stoking the Fire
Same start and same end as "Mercenaris del Passat". There is also a variant with a different finish, equipped by Chris Sharma. First repeat by Adam Ondra, Feb-2016 Set: Tomasz Mrazek FFA: Chris Sharma, 2013 | Santa Linya | |||
FR:9a | Speed intégrale
FA: Cédric Lachat, 2011 | 40m | Voralpsee | ||
FB:8B | ★★★ Kings of Sonlerto | Sonlerto | |||
FR:9a | ★★ La Fabela
Start as Trio Ternura. Full route. FA: Edu Marin, 2008 | 50m, 3 | Santa Linya | ||
{FB} 8B | ★★★ La prue
| Cresciano | |||
FR:9a+ | Lapsus
Starts with Noia and finishes some 70 moves later on Anaconda. Initially graded 9b but downgraded by Sébastien Bouin in 2023. FFA: Stefano Ghisolfi, 2 Nov 2015 | 30m | Stura | ||
{FB} 8B+ | ★★★ Mystic Stylez
The #sd of 'Muttertag' | Magic Wood | |||
FR:9a+ | ★★ Jungle Boogie
FA: Adam Ondra, 2012 | 35m | Céüse | ||
FR:9a | Mandanga Total
Set: José Luis Palao FA: Carlos Jimenez Munoz | 50m | Villanueva del Rosario | ||
FR:8c+/9a | ★ Victimes del Futur
A route with a long history of grade changes. Ramon Julian initially graded it at 8c/+. Then Patxi Usobiaga proposed 8c+. In 2015 Alex Megos broke a hold before sending it proposing 9a. Jakob Schubert flashed it and downgraded it to 8c+/9a which was later confirmed by Jorge Díaz-Rullo and seems to be the current consensus. Angie Scarth-Johnson's Sep 2021 ascent of this route was the first Australian female ascent of a grade 9a/35. Set: jordi Pou FFA: Ramon Julian, 2006 | 25m, 10 | Margalef | ||
FR:9a | ★★★ Victimas Perez
Set: Chris Sharma FA: Ramon Julian, 2008 | 29m, 15 | Margalef | ||
FR:8c+/9a | ★★★ La Reina Mora
Given 8c+ by Huber, but received only 4 more ascents in 16 years and was upgraded 2 grades. Grade 9a confirmed by Chris Sharma in 2022. Set: Alexander Huber, 1996 FFA: Ramon Julián, 2008 | 40m | Siurana | ||
{FB} 8A+/B | High Spirit | Magic Wood | |||
FB:8B | ★★★ Esperanza (sit) | Albarracín | |||
{FB} 8B | ★★★ Keen Roof
The centre of the cave from back left. FA: James Pearson, 2006 | Peak District Limestone | |||
{FR} FR:9a | Rainshadow
Rainshadow is the stunning extension to Raindogs. FFA: Steve McClure, 2003 | Malham Cove | |||
{FR} FB:8A+/B | ★★ Sissyfuss | Chironico | |||
FR:9b | ★★★ Erebor
Initially graded 9b/9b+, downgrade proposed by Adam Ondra to 9b in Nov-2021. | Valle del Sarca | |||
FB:8B | ★★★ Wrestling with an Alligator
1
8A+
2
8B
FA: Klem Loskot | 2 | Maltatal | ||
8B | ★★★ Schule des Lebens
FA: Ueli Gigax | Chironico | |||
FR:9a+ | ★ Catxasa
Alternative start to La Fabela finishing at the anchor of La Fabela. Set: Dani Andrada FA: Chris Sharma, 2011 | Santa Linya | |||
FR:9b | First round, first minute
Repeats by Adam Ondra, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi. FFA: Chris Sharma, 2011 | 15m, 7 | Margalef | ||
FR:9b | ★★★ Fight or Flight
The route has a first part made of 25 very sustained movements graded 9a+, followed by a second 8c part with 12 movements including a dyno. A knee bar has been found in the first crux (the sequence was downgraded from 8a to 7c+), however a hold has broken higher up on the dyno which makes it significantly harder to throw. All in all the route is still considered 9b Ascents
FA: Chris Sharma FFA: Chris Sharma, 2011 | 35m | Oliana | ||
FR:9a+ | ★★★ Demencia senil
Variant of Llamps I Trons. FFA: Chris Sharma, 2009 | 16m, 10 | Margalef | ||
FR:9a+ | Super Crackinette
Left start into 'Crackinette'. A route of historic importance bolted by French local Quentin Chastagnier, FAed by Alex Megos and flashed by Adam Ondra, making it the first of the grade to be flashed (see Reel Rock 13). According to Adam Ondra, the route doesn't have any real crux, just around 25-30 moves of very sustained hard and fingery climbing in a big overhang where the hardest section comes just before linking the direct start into the original Crackinette, and then you have to deal with the awkward 8b+ crack itself. | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | |||
{FB} 8B+ | ★★★ Confession
Sit start. | Cresciano | |||
FB:8B+ | Mécanique Élémentaire
FA: Sébastien Frigault | Fontainebleau | |||
FR:8c+/9a | ★★ Ingravis Serps Extension
Climbs to the anchor of "Rollito Sharma". FFA: Dani Andrada, 2008 | Santa Linya | |||
{FB} 8B | ★★★ Mithril
| Cresciano | |||
{FR} FB:8A+/B | ★★ Soilwork | Chironico | |||
FR:9a | ★ Thunder Ribes
FA: Stefano Ghisolfi, 12 Dec 2016 | Valle del Sarca | |||
{FB} 8B+ | ★★★ Memento
FA: Bernd Zangerl, 2005 | Silvapark Galtür | |||
FB:8B | ★★★ Kubalik | Brione | |||
FR:9a | ★★ Hades
FFA: Andreas Bindhammer, 2008 | 20m | Nassereith | ||
FR:8c+/9a | ★★★ St. Anger
Set: Francois Legrand FA: Andreas Bindhammer, 2008 | 24m | Valle del Sarca | ||
FR:9a | ★★ La Novena Enmienda
Set: Dani Andrada FA: Dani Andrada, 2005 | 50m | Santa Linya | ||
FR:9a | El Autoengaño
Set: Dani Andrada, 2007 FA: Dani Andrada, 30 Nov 2015 | Rodellar | |||
FR:9a/a+ | Definición De Resistencia Demócrata
FA: Dani Andrada, 2005 | Terradets | |||
FR:9a/a+ | Mangarbo
FA: Sébastien Bouin, 24 May 2016 | Villanueva del Rosario | |||
FR:9a | Celedón | 42m | Eguino | ||
FR:8c+/9a | ★★ Duele la realidad
Set: Dani Andrada FA: Ramon Julian, 2010 | 50m, 2 | Oliana | ||
FR:9a | La prophétie des grenouilles
Links "Une Arquée pour un criquet" and "La Croix de To Loose". Set: Yann Ghesquiers FA: Yann Ghesquiers, 2010 | Rocher des Brumes | |||
FR:9a | ★★★ La ley indignata
FFA: Alex Megos, 1 Jan 2016 | 15m | Margalef | ||
FR:9a+/b | Chilam Balam
Set: Bernabé Fernandez, 2003 FA: Bernabé Fernandez, 2003 | 82m | Villanueva del Rosario | ||
{FB} 8B | ★★★ Incubator | Ginzling | |||
FB:8B | ★★★ General Disarray | Brione | |||
FR:8c+/9a | El intento
Set: David Villasenor FA: Dani Andrada, 2005 | 30m | Cuenca | ||
{FR} FR:9a | ★★★ Sprengstoff
Set: Beat Kammerlander, 1995 FFA: Jacopo Larcher, 30 Nov 2020 | 18m | Walgau | ||
FR:9a | ★★ Omen Nomen
FFA: Stefano Ghisolfi, 15 Mar 2017 | 30m | Valle del Sarca | ||
FR:9a+ | ★ La Furia de Jabalí
Set: Beto Rocasolano FA: William Bosi, Mar 2021 | Siurana | |||
FR:9a+ | No Pain No Gain
Downgrade to 9a proposed by Sébastien Bouin . Set: Alejandro Gimenez & Daniel Fuertes, 2002 FA: Daniel Fuertes, 6 Jun 2017 | 40m | Rodellar | ||
FR:9a | Tito Claudio Traversa
FA: Stefano Ghisolfi, 31 May 2014 | Susa - Moncenisio | |||
FR:9a | Last Night
Set: Dani Andrada FFA: William Bosi, 2021 | 15m | Siurana | ||
FR:9a | ★★★ Le Cadre (New Version)
Left variation of "Le Cadre" that avoids the chipped holds on the original line. Hard for the grade. Set: Sylvain Millet FA: Adam Ondra, 2010 | 40m | Céüse | ||
FB:8B+ | ★★ The shelter | Sonlerto | |||
FB:8B | ★★ L'Insoutenable Légèreté de l'Être
FA: Sébastien Frigault | Fontainebleau | |||
FR:9a | ★★★ Wild Publico
Start left of "Pal Este" and climb into "Pal Publico". FFA: Alex Megos, 2021 | Margalef |