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Le Bout Du Monde

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 38
21

Seasonality

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Description

Back in the days Le Bout du Monde (Edge of the World) sector contained the highest density of hard routes worldwide. If you're dedicated enough it's only a matter of time before you pay these routes a visit.

Access issues inherited from Buoux

Climbing is only authorized from the sectors "Face Ouest" to "Bout du Monde" on the Aiguebrun cliff. All the other areas, including the Confines cliff (on the opposite side) are currently on private land and are closed. Camping and fires are prohibited.

Climbing was forbidden in Buoux for more than a decade. The last area to have been reopened is the Face Ouest area which was re-opened in 2010 with many new routes and some classic lines rebolted.

Not respecting these rules could lead to the area being closed again.

Ethic inherited from Buoux

  • No camping
  • No sleeping in car parks
  • No fire
  • Don't leave any trash
  • Brush off your chalk and tick marks

Routes

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Grade Route

Mur très technique et à doigts. 8b+ dur. 2 essais.

Dur au milieu. Belle voie de François Legrand.

Continue without resting for the extra grade.

Super popular. The route contains one of the most famous moves imaginable, an extreme cross through on modified pockets. The long reach through caught people’s imagination and has come to be known as the Rose move.

Antoine Le Menestrel managed to free the line in September 1985 and even today it remains a coveted and stout test,

4th 8b in the world.

FA: Antoine Le Menestrel, 1985

The second pitch after La Rose et le Vampire. Linking the two pitches is La Rage de Vivre (8c)

The extension to La Rose et le Vampire without resting. If you take the belay the second pitch is La Secte and gets 8a+.

First French 8b+, 5th 8b+ in the world.

FA: Antoine Le Menestrel, 1986

Chouca is an overhanging 30m pitch up a swelling wall high on the east side of the cliff. Start without using a cairn, the first move should be done to tick the route!

There is a direct finish, Bout'chou at 8b+ (Antoine Le Menestrel, 2001)

The name of the route comes from Antoine and Marc Le Menestrel's dog which died during a storm the year the route was set.

First French female 8a+ by Catherine Destivelle.

Set: Marc Le Menestrel

FFA: Marc Le Menestrel

FA: Marc Le Menestrel, 1985

4th 8b+ in the world. Same finish as Bout'chou.

FA: Marc Le Menestrel, 1986

1 7a+
2 7b+

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Francoise Lepron & Jean-Bastiste Tribout

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9782957978915

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the sport climbing and bouldering at Buoux, covering around 800 routes.

Author(s): Adrian Berry

Date: 2009

ISBN: 12490279

A selective guidebook describing over 2.500 routes at 14 different crags, which are Ceuse, Sisteron, Volx, Orpierre, Bellecombe, Baume Rousse, Ubrieux, St Julien, St Leger, Malaucene, Combe Obscure, Les Dentelles, Venasque and Buoux.

Author(s): David Atchison-Jones

Date: 2006

ISBN: 9781873665619

A selective guidebook describing nearly 40 separate sports climbing and rock climbing areas around Avignon and Mont Ventoux, including the crags of Saint Leger, Venasque, Clapis Face, Saint Julian and Trois Rivieres.

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