A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
alf38 Valentin Faure Némo Julien Nico Damian EBN Campbell Gome Alex Ennis Nicolas Bia
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Doizieux
130 in Crag
- 1.1. Libellule 5 in Sector
- 1.2. Quenotte 10 in Sector
- 1.3. Belotte 11 in Sector
- 1.4. LSD / Remember 8 in Sector
- 1.5. Cannelures 10 in Sector
- 1.6. Zizou 9 in Sector
- 1.7. Psychose / Le recoin 6 in Sector
- 1.8. Eclopés 7 in Sector
- 1.9. Grand Eperon 6 in Sector
- 1.10. Babylone 6 in Sector
- 1.11. Murettes 9 in Sector
- 1.12. Manivelle 11 in Area
- 1.13. L'Opéra 10 in Sector
- 1.14. Bichette 14 in Sector
- 1.15. Laurence 8 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Doizieux 130 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.410298, 4.579454
summary
Granite tower-like rocks in a forest valley, where flows a small river named "Dorlay".
More than 150 routes in total, single and multi pitch available.
description
Most rocks are South-East oriented. Routes names shall be written on the rock at the start of them.
access issues
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/
approach
Depending on sectors, it may take you only 10 minutes for the first sectors, to more than 30min to reach the further ones.
From the parking, follow a path along "Dorlay" small river. Sectors will be on the right side, and some will behind the visible ones, further up the hills.
ethic
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
1.1. Libellule 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le Coq | 4b | 12m, 5 | |||
2 | Libellule | 5a | 18m, 7 | |||
3 | Soleil | 5a | 18m, 7 | |||
4 | Entrechat | 5b | 19m, 9 | |||
5 | Premier Pas | 4a | 19m, 8 |
1.2. Quenotte 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Gnognotte | 4c | ||||
2 | Papillotte | 4b | ||||
3 | Quenotte | 5c | ||||
4 | Bleriote | 4c | ||||
5 | Boudhinette | 4b | ||||
6 | Chochotte | 5c | ||||
7 | La diagonale / Belote | 5b | ||||
8 | Rebelote | 5c | ||||
9 | Aristote | 5b | ||||
10 | Le spot | 5c+ |
1.3. Belotte 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.410775, 4.580913
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le spot | 6a | 6m, 3 | |||
2 | Aristote | 6a | 7m, 4 | |||
3 | ★★ Rebelotte | 6a+ | 12m, 6 | |||
4 | Belotte | 6a | 9m, 4 | |||
5 | Chocotte | 6a | 9m, 4 | |||
6 | ★ Gnognote | 5c | 9m, 4 | |||
7 | Papillotte | 4c | 12m, 4 | |||
8 | Quenotte | 6a | 12m, 5 | |||
9 | Blériote | 4b | 12m, 5 | |||
10 | Boudhinette | 5b+ | 11m, 5 | |||
11 | Marmotte | 4a | 8m, 4 |
1.4. LSD 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 45.410907, 4.580814
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Tout droit réservé | 6b+ | 8m, 4 | |||
2 | Voie normale | 3b | ||||
3 | ★★ Junkomaniak / Sex machine | 5c+ | 11m, 5 | |||
4 | Les yeux dans le bleu du ciel | 6a+ | ||||
5 | ★★ L.S.D. | 6b | 13m, 6 | |||
6 | ★★ Truckmastock | 6a | 13m, 5 | |||
7 |
★★ Cornflakes / La grande cheminée
Spits shared with Pantoufle | 5b | 12m, 4 | |||
8 |
★★ Pantoufle / La dulfer
Spits shared with Cornflakes | 5b | 12m, 4 |
1.5. Cannelures 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Les Cannelures | 6a+ | 26m, 2, 5 | |||
2 | Les filles | 4c+ | 11m, 4 | |||
3 | Salami tout vert | 5b | ||||
4 | La sans nom | 5c+ | 13m, 5 | |||
5 | Le python | 6a | 20m, 4 | |||
6 | Le Piton | 5b | 9m, 4 | |||
7 | Le dièdre | 4c | 9m, 4 | |||
8 | La Cloporte | 5c+ | 17m, 7 | |||
9 | Mick mack boom | 5a | 13m, 5 | |||
10 | Tango tango | 4b | 12m, 5 |
1.6. Zizou 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ La Zizou | 5c | 15m, 7 | |||
2 | Chocolat Kirsch | 6b | ||||
3 | L'étrave | 5b | ||||
4 | Le verrou | 6a | ||||
5 | Descente à la mine | 4c | ||||
6 |
★★ Grandeur
without the crack | 6b | 20m, 7 | |||
7 |
★★★ Grandeur (bis)
with the crack | 6a | 13m, 5 | |||
8 | Et décadence | 5b | ||||
9 | De l'empire | 5c |
1.7. Psychose 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Psychose-morose | 5c | ||||
2 | Névrose pas rose | 5b | ||||
3 | Bébé rose | 4c | ||||
4 | Old Guy | 6a | ||||
5 | Tartopium | 6c | 30m, 9 | |||
6 | Vazimou | 4b |
1.8. Eclopés 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Babylone | 5a | 15m, 5 | |||
2 | ★★★ Les éclopés | 5b | 15m, 8 | |||
3 | Barak le barbare | 6a+ | 19m, 8 | |||
4 | Le démoniaque incontinent | 6b+ | 20m, 8 | |||
5 | La démente religieuse | 6a+ | 20m, 7 | |||
6 | La vazymou | 5a | 15m, 8 | |||
7 | Tartopium | 7a | 14m, 7 |
1.9. Grand Eperon 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Le quatrième ciel | 5b+ | 25m | |||
2 | La corne d'Astaroth | 5a+ | 25m | |||
3 | Azaël Azaël | 6a+ | 25m | |||
4 | ★★★ Le moloch qui rit jaune | 4c | 20m | |||
5 | Zagam le Dieu de l'éclair | 5c | 20m | |||
6 | ★★★ American crack footing | 6a | 17m |
1.10. Babylone 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Vampire pipistrelle | 5a | 18m, 9 | |||
2 | ★★ Dracula | 5b+ | 18m, 9 | |||
3 | Crépuscule des vieux | 5c+ | 12m, 5 | |||
4 | L'élan de la jeunesse | 4c | 12m, 5 | |||
5 | Nostalgie du passé | 5b | 12m, 5 | |||
6 | Les Jardins de Babylone | 5c | 45m, 2 |
1.11. Murettes 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
Murettes du Haut et Murettes du Bas
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le festin de pierre | 5b | 17m, 7 | |||
2 | ★★★ Moi Chitaa | 6b+ | 15m, 7 | |||
3 | ★★★ Les murettes | 5c+ | 15m, 6 | |||
4 | Qui ose vaincra | 6a | 12m, 6 | |||
5 | Galère vitale | 5c | 10m, 4 | |||
6 | Sur une belle salade | 6a+ | 10m, 4 | |||
7 | Un escalope | 6a+ | 10m, 5 | |||
8 | Le père faux à tort | 5c | 10m, 4 | |||
9 | Tempo noir | 5b | 9m, 4 |
1.12. Manivelle 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Sidi Brahim | 7b | 23m | |||
2 | ★★★ L'écharpe | 6b | 26m | |||
3 | ★★ Michmich | 7a | 20m | |||
4 | ★★ Manivelle | 6b+ | 18m | |||
5 | ★ Pshycodrame | 6c | 18m | |||
6 | Gendarme | 6b+ | 16m | |||
7 | ★ Mal de tronche | 6a+ | 18m | |||
8 | ★ Retour de manivelle | 6a | 18m | |||
9 | Tu mutes ou tu brutes | 6c+ | 16m | |||
10 | Délices d'avion | 6c | 13m | |||
11 | Racaille le rouge | 6b+ | 14m |
1.13. L'Opéra 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
description
Sector with about 10 routes. Good flat belay station for most of the routes.
approach
Steep hike to reach this sector. 2 ways are possible.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le tychodrome | 5c+ | 12m, 7 | |||
2 | ★ L'obésodrome | 5b | 16m, 7 | |||
3 | Le yéti | 6a | 16m, 7 | |||
4 | Magali Bertine | 6a | ||||
5 | ★★ Chromosome chatouilleux | 6b+ | 17m, 7 | |||
6 | ★★ Rêve de mutant | 7a | 18m | |||
7 | ★ Opéra deversé | 7b+ | 17m | |||
8 | Opéra-variante | 6a | ||||
9 | Le troisième couramiot | 6c | ||||
10 | Exercice de style | 5b |
1.14. Bichette 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Bichette | 5a | 55m, 3, 8 | |||
2 | Bichette variante | 5b | 2 | |||
3 | La chevêche | 5b | ||||
4 | Monsieur Gainsbar | 4c | 2 | |||
5 | Le vol d'Icare | 6b | ||||
6 | Bagatelle | 4c | ||||
7 | Scène de Méninges | 7a+ | 9m, 4 | |||
8 | Le moule à Charlotte | 6a | ||||
9 | Esprit Attila | 5c+ | 65m, 3, 6 | |||
10 | La Gehenne | 6b+ | 22m, 7 | |||
11 | La Fissure de Bichette | 5c | 21m, 7 | |||
12 | Coissou | 5c | 60m, 2, 9 | |||
13 | Moule à Gaufres | 6b+ | 55m, 2, 9 | |||
14 | Petit Loup | 6b+ | 70m, 3, 9 |
1.15. Laurence 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le petitou | 5a | 10m | |||
2 | Belle inconnue | 4c | 13m | |||
3 | Balajo | 5b | 15m | |||
4 | Les trois surplombs | 5a | 16m | |||
5 | La dalle d'Arabie 2 | 6a+ | 21m | |||
6 | La dalle d'Arabie 1 | 6a | 12m | |||
7 | La laurence | 5a | 7m | |||
8 | The vincent | 5c+ | 10m |