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Doizieux Guide

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 95

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

alf38 Valentin Faure Némo Julien Nico Damian EBN Campbell Gome Alex Ennis Nicolas Bia

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Doizieux 130 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
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A
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D

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.410298, 4.579454

summary

Granite tower-like rocks in a forest valley, where flows a small river named "Dorlay".

More than 150 routes in total, single and multi pitch available.

description

Most rocks are South-East oriented. Routes names shall be written on the rock at the start of them.

access issues

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

inherited from France

approach

Depending on sectors, it may take you only 10 minutes for the first sectors, to more than 30min to reach the further ones.

From the parking, follow a path along "Dorlay" small river. Sectors will be on the right side, and some will behind the visible ones, further up the hills.

ethic

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

inherited from France

1.1. Libellule 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Le Coq 4b Sport 12m, 5
2 Libellule 5a Sport 18m, 7
3 Soleil 5a Sport 18m, 7
4 Entrechat 5b Sport 19m, 9
5 Premier Pas 4a Sport 19m, 8

1.2. Quenotte 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gnognotte 4c Sport
2 Papillotte 4b Sport
3 Quenotte 5c Sport
4 Bleriote 4c Sport
5 Boudhinette 4b Sport
6 Chochotte 5c Sport
7 La diagonale / Belote 5b Sport
8 Rebelote 5c Sport
9 Aristote 5b Sport
10 Le spot 5c+ Sport

1.3. Belotte 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.410775, 4.580913

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Le spot 6a Sport 6m, 3
2 Aristote 6a Sport 7m, 4
3 Rebelotte 6a+ Sport 12m, 6
4 Belotte 6a Sport 9m, 4
5 Chocotte 6a Sport 9m, 4
6 Gnognote 5c Sport 9m, 4
7 Papillotte 4c Sport 12m, 4
8 Quenotte 6a Sport 12m, 5
9 Blériote 4b Sport 12m, 5
10 Boudhinette 5b+ Sport 11m, 5
11 Marmotte 4a Sport 8m, 4

1.4. LSD 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.410907, 4.580814

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tout droit réservé 6b+ Sport 8m, 4
2 Voie normale 3b Sport
3 Junkomaniak / Sex machine 5c+ Sport 11m, 5
4 Les yeux dans le bleu du ciel 6a+ Sport
5 L.S.D. 6b Sport 13m, 6
6 Truckmastock 6a Sport 13m, 5
7 Cornflakes / La grande cheminée

Spits shared with Pantoufle

5b Sport 12m, 4
8 Pantoufle / La dulfer

Spits shared with Cornflakes

5b Sport 12m, 4

1.5. Cannelures 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Les Cannelures 6a+ Sport 26m, 2, 5
2 Les filles 4c+ Sport 11m, 4
3 Salami tout vert 5b Sport
4 La sans nom 5c+ Sport 13m, 5
5 Le python 6a Sport 20m, 4
6 Le Piton 5b Sport 9m, 4
7 Le dièdre 4c Sport 9m, 4
8 La Cloporte 5c+ Sport 17m, 7
9 Mick mack boom 5a Sport 13m, 5
10 Tango tango 4b Sport 12m, 5

1.6. Zizou 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 La Zizou 5c Sport 15m, 7
2 Chocolat Kirsch 6b Sport
3 L'étrave 5b Sport
4 Le verrou 6a Sport
5 Descente à la mine 4c Sport
6 Grandeur

without the crack

6b Sport 20m, 7
7 Grandeur (bis)

with the crack

6a Sport 13m, 5
8 Et décadence 5b Sport
9 De l'empire 5c Sport

1.7. Psychose 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Psychose-morose 5c Sport
2 Névrose pas rose 5b Sport
3 Bébé rose 4c Sport
4 Old Guy 6a Sport
5 Tartopium 6c Sport 30m, 9
6 Vazimou 4b Sport

1.8. Eclopés 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Babylone 5a Sport 15m, 5
2 Les éclopés 5b Sport 15m, 8
3 Barak le barbare 6a+ Sport 19m, 8
4 Le démoniaque incontinent 6b+ Sport 20m, 8
5 La démente religieuse 6a+ Sport 20m, 7
6 La vazymou 5a Sport 15m, 8
7 Tartopium 7a Sport 14m, 7

1.9. Grand Eperon 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Le quatrième ciel 5b+ Sport 25m
2 La corne d'Astaroth 5a+ Sport 25m
3 Azaël Azaël 6a+ Sport 25m
4 Le moloch qui rit jaune 4c Sport 20m
5 Zagam le Dieu de l'éclair 5c Sport 20m
6 American crack footing 6a Sport 17m

1.10. Babylone 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Vampire pipistrelle 5a Sport 18m, 9
2 Dracula 5b+ Sport 18m, 9
3 Crépuscule des vieux 5c+ Sport 12m, 5
4 L'élan de la jeunesse 4c Sport 12m, 5
5 Nostalgie du passé 5b Sport 12m, 5
6 Les Jardins de Babylone 5c Sport 45m, 2

1.11. Murettes 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

Murettes du Haut et Murettes du Bas

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Le festin de pierre 5b Sport 17m, 7
2 Moi Chitaa 6b+ Sport 15m, 7
3 Les murettes 5c+ Sport 15m, 6
4 Qui ose vaincra 6a Sport 12m, 6
5 Galère vitale 5c Sport 10m, 4
6 Sur une belle salade 6a+ Sport 10m, 4
7 Un escalope 6a+ Sport 10m, 5
8 Le père faux à tort 5c Sport 10m, 4
9 Tempo noir 5b Sport 9m, 4

1.12. Manivelle 11 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sidi Brahim 7b Sport 23m
2 L'écharpe 6b Sport 26m
3 Michmich 7a Sport 20m
4 Manivelle 6b+ Sport 18m
5 Pshycodrame 6c Sport 18m
6 Gendarme 6b+ Sport 16m
7 Mal de tronche 6a+ Sport 18m
8 Retour de manivelle 6a Sport 18m
9 Tu mutes ou tu brutes 6c+ Sport 16m
10 Délices d'avion 6c Sport 13m
11 Racaille le rouge 6b+ Sport 14m

1.13. L'Opéra 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

Sector with about 10 routes. Good flat belay station for most of the routes.

approach

Steep hike to reach this sector. 2 ways are possible.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Le tychodrome 5c+ Sport 12m, 7
2 L'obésodrome 5b Sport 16m, 7
3 Le yéti 6a Sport 16m, 7
4 Magali Bertine 6a Sport
5 Chromosome chatouilleux 6b+ Sport 17m, 7
6 Rêve de mutant 7a Sport 18m
7 Opéra deversé 7b+ Sport 17m
8 Opéra-variante 6a Sport
9 Le troisième couramiot 6c Sport
10 Exercice de style 5b Sport

1.14. Bichette 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bichette 5a Sport 55m, 3, 8
2 Bichette variante 5b Sport 2
3 La chevêche 5b Sport
4 Monsieur Gainsbar 4c Sport 2
5 Le vol d'Icare 6b Sport
6 Bagatelle 4c Sport
7 Scène de Méninges 7a+ Sport 9m, 4
8 Le moule à Charlotte 6a Sport
9 Esprit Attila 5c+ Sport 65m, 3, 6
10 La Gehenne 6b+ Sport 22m, 7
11 La Fissure de Bichette 5c Sport 21m, 7
12 Coissou 5c Sport 60m, 2, 9
13 Moule à Gaufres 6b+ Sport 55m, 2, 9
14 Petit Loup 6b+ Sport 70m, 3, 9

1.15. Laurence 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Le petitou 5a Sport 10m
2 Belle inconnue 4c Sport 13m
3 Balajo 5b Sport 15m
4 Les trois surplombs 5a Sport 16m
5 La dalle d'Arabie 2 6a+ Sport 21m
6 La dalle d'Arabie 1 6a Sport 12m
7 La laurence 5a Sport 7m
8 The vincent 5c+ Sport 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
3b Voie normale Sport 1.4. LSD
4a Premier Pas Sport 19m, 8 1.1. Libellule
Marmotte Sport 8m, 4 1.3. Belotte
4b Le Coq Sport 12m, 5 1.1. Libellule
Boudhinette Sport 1.2. Quenotte
Papillotte Sport 1.2. Quenotte
Blériote Sport 12m, 5 1.3. Belotte
Tango tango Sport 12m, 5 1.5. Cannelures
Vazimou Sport 1.7. Psychose
4c Bleriote Sport 1.2. Quenotte
Gnognotte Sport 1.2. Quenotte
Papillotte Sport 12m, 4 1.3. Belotte
Le dièdre Sport 9m, 4 1.5. Cannelures
Descente à la mine Sport 1.6. Zizou
Bébé rose Sport 1.7. Psychose
Le moloch qui rit jaune Sport 20m 1.9. Grand Eperon
L'élan de la jeunesse Sport 12m, 5 1.10. Babylone
Bagatelle Sport 1.14. Bichette
Monsieur Gainsbar Sport 2 1.14. Bichette
Belle inconnue Sport 13m 1.15. Laurence
4c+ Les filles Sport 11m, 4 1.5. Cannelures
5a Libellule Sport 18m, 7 1.1. Libellule
Soleil Sport 18m, 7 1.1. Libellule
Mick mack boom Sport 13m, 5 1.5. Cannelures
Babylone Sport 15m, 5 1.8. Eclopés
La vazymou Sport 15m, 8 1.8. Eclopés
Vampire pipistrelle Sport 18m, 9 1.10. Babylone
Bichette Sport 55m, 3, 8 1.14. Bichette
La laurence Sport 7m 1.15. Laurence
Le petitou Sport 10m 1.15. Laurence
Les trois surplombs Sport 16m 1.15. Laurence
5a+ La corne d'Astaroth Sport 25m 1.9. Grand Eperon
5b Entrechat Sport 19m, 9 1.1. Libellule
Aristote Sport 1.2. Quenotte
La diagonale Sport 1.2. Quenotte
Cornflakes Sport 12m, 4 1.4. LSD
Pantoufle Sport 12m, 4 1.4. LSD
Le Piton Sport 9m, 4 1.5. Cannelures
Salami tout vert Sport 1.5. Cannelures
Et décadence Sport 1.6. Zizou
L'étrave Sport 1.6. Zizou
Névrose pas rose Sport 1.7. Psychose
Les éclopés Sport 15m, 8 1.8. Eclopés
Nostalgie du passé Sport 12m, 5 1.10. Babylone
Le festin de pierre Sport 17m, 7 1.11. Murettes
Tempo noir Sport 9m, 4 1.11. Murettes
Exercice de style Sport 1.13. L'Opéra
L'obésodrome Sport 16m, 7 1.13. L'Opéra
Bichette variante Sport 2 1.14. Bichette
La chevêche Sport 1.14. Bichette
Balajo Sport 15m 1.15. Laurence
5b+ Boudhinette Sport 11m, 5 1.3. Belotte
Le quatrième ciel Sport 25m 1.9. Grand Eperon
Dracula Sport 18m, 9 1.10. Babylone
5c Chochotte Sport 1.2. Quenotte
Quenotte Sport 1.2. Quenotte
Rebelote Sport 1.2. Quenotte
Gnognote Sport 9m, 4 1.3. Belotte
De l'empire Sport 1.6. Zizou
La Zizou Sport 15m, 7 1.6. Zizou
Psychose-morose Sport 1.7. Psychose
Zagam le Dieu de l'éclair Sport 20m 1.9. Grand Eperon
Les Jardins de Babylone Sport 45m, 2 1.10. Babylone
Galère vitale Sport 10m, 4 1.11. Murettes
Le père faux à tort Sport 10m, 4 1.11. Murettes
Coissou Sport 60m, 2, 9 1.14. Bichette
La Fissure de Bichette Sport 21m, 7 1.14. Bichette
5c+ Le spot Sport 1.2. Quenotte
Junkomaniak Sport 11m, 5 1.4. LSD
La Cloporte Sport 17m, 7 1.5. Cannelures
La sans nom Sport 13m, 5 1.5. Cannelures
Crépuscule des vieux Sport 12m, 5 1.10. Babylone
Les murettes Sport 15m, 6 1.11. Murettes
Le tychodrome Sport 12m, 7 1.13. L'Opéra
Esprit Attila Sport 65m, 3, 6 1.14. Bichette
The vincent Sport 10m 1.15. Laurence
6a Aristote Sport 7m, 4 1.3. Belotte
Belotte Sport 9m, 4 1.3. Belotte
Chocotte Sport 9m, 4 1.3. Belotte
Le spot Sport 6m, 3 1.3. Belotte
Quenotte Sport 12m, 5 1.3. Belotte
Truckmastock Sport 13m, 5 1.4. LSD
Le python Sport 20m, 4 1.5. Cannelures
Grandeur (bis) Sport 13m, 5 1.6. Zizou
Le verrou Sport 1.6. Zizou
Old Guy Sport 1.7. Psychose
American crack footing Sport 17m 1.9. Grand Eperon
Qui ose vaincra Sport 12m, 6 1.11. Murettes
Retour de manivelle Sport 18m 1.12. Manivelle
Le yéti Sport 16m, 7 1.13. L'Opéra
Magali Bertine Sport 1.13. L'Opéra
Opéra-variante Sport 1.13. L'Opéra
Le moule à Charlotte Sport 1.14. Bichette
La dalle d'Arabie 1 Sport 12m 1.15. Laurence
6a+ Rebelotte Sport 12m, 6 1.3. Belotte
Les yeux dans le bleu du ciel Sport 1.4. LSD
Les Cannelures Sport 26m, 2, 5 1.5. Cannelures
Barak le barbare Sport 19m, 8 1.8. Eclopés
La démente religieuse Sport 20m, 7 1.8. Eclopés
Azaël Azaël Sport 25m 1.9. Grand Eperon
Sur une belle salade Sport 10m, 4 1.11. Murettes
Un escalope Sport 10m, 5 1.11. Murettes
Mal de tronche Sport 18m 1.12. Manivelle
La dalle d'Arabie 2 Sport 21m 1.15. Laurence
6b L.S.D. Sport 13m, 6 1.4. LSD
Chocolat Kirsch Sport 1.6. Zizou
Grandeur Sport 20m, 7 1.6. Zizou
L'écharpe Sport 26m 1.12. Manivelle
Le vol d'Icare Sport 1.14. Bichette
6b+ Tout droit réservé Sport 8m, 4 1.4. LSD
Le démoniaque incontinent Sport 20m, 8 1.8. Eclopés
Moi Chitaa Sport 15m, 7 1.11. Murettes
Gendarme Sport 16m 1.12. Manivelle
Manivelle Sport 18m 1.12. Manivelle
Racaille le rouge Sport 14m 1.12. Manivelle
Chromosome chatouilleux Sport 17m, 7 1.13. L'Opéra
La Gehenne Sport 22m, 7 1.14. Bichette
Moule à Gaufres Sport 55m, 2, 9 1.14. Bichette
Petit Loup Sport 70m, 3, 9 1.14. Bichette
6c Tartopium Sport 30m, 9 1.7. Psychose
Délices d'avion Sport 13m 1.12. Manivelle
Pshycodrame Sport 18m 1.12. Manivelle
Le troisième couramiot Sport 1.13. L'Opéra
6c+ Tu mutes ou tu brutes Sport 16m 1.12. Manivelle
7a Tartopium Sport 14m, 7 1.8. Eclopés
Michmich Sport 20m 1.12. Manivelle
Rêve de mutant Sport 18m 1.13. L'Opéra
7a+ Scène de Méninges Sport 9m, 4 1.14. Bichette
7b Sidi Brahim Sport 23m 1.12. Manivelle
7b+ Opéra deversé Sport 17m 1.13. L'Opéra
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