Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
9a | |||||||||
9a | ★★★ Pajarito | 40m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 4th Jun 2022 | ||||
Magnifique, resi physique sur petites colos et inversées. 2 essais. 8c+/9a.
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9a | ★★★ Promotion canne à pêche | 50m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | ||||
Voie exceptionnelle. 50 mètres.
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8c | |||||||||
8c | Bohemian Symphony Extension | Les Gorges du Verdon | Mon 27th Jul 2020 | ||||||
First FA of the season on the Ramirole 🤙. It was an "end of day" project : Bohemian symphony extension. It could be around 8c. I was close to do my warm up project too, falling on the last move... Next one
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8b+ | |||||||||
8b+ | ★★★ Tom et Je Ris | 60m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Thu 21st Aug 2008 | ||||
The nicest collonette I've ever seen!!!!
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8b+ | ★★★ Tom et Je Ris | 60m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Sun 23rd Oct 2016 | |||||
what an amazing line!!! Really worth it.
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8b+ | ★★★ Tom et Je Ris | 60m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 28th May 2021 | ||||
Two days. 5 tries. One of the most amazing tufa lines! 60m battle against pumped forearms
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8b+ ~8a | Kiss Kiss Gang Bang | Les Gorges du Verdon | Mon 14th Aug 2023 | ||||||
First pitch
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8b | |||||||||
8b | ★★★ La Ramirole | 150m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Thu 1st Jan 2015 | |||||
8a+,8a,8b,8a+,7a
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8b | ★★★ Hulkosaure | 60m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th May 2021 | ||||
2nd Go. mono-tufa king line. full koala mode.
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8b | ★★★ La Ramirole | 150m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 18th Apr 2022 | ||||
one day ascent, every pitch on lead
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8a | |||||||||
8a | ★★★ Les suceurs de médailles (Le suceur de médaille) | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Mon 31st Oct 2016 | |||||
Une de voies le moins raides du secteur...ideale pour mon dos bloque...bon c'est quand même un peu tordu en bas..pas si ideale:- )Mais tres tres beau!
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7c 8a | L’esthète de lard | Les Gorges du Verdon | Thu 3rd Jun 2021 | ||||||
Right exit
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7c+ | |||||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Papy ké devers (Papy ké devers) | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Mon 3rd Oct 2016 | |||||
Amazing 4 pitch route! 8a, 7b, 7c+, 7c+ (last pitch was supposed to be a 6c+ but we missed the easy exit and topped out on a 7c+ grey slab in the dark) nearest I came from falling was while leading the 7b gardening pitch!
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7c+ | ★★ Pequeña — 4 attempts - with Michael Laraia | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Sep 2023 | |||||
First six quickdraws are not that hard (maybe 7b) on juggy tufas but already extremely overhanging (could do this in one piece in my second try). Then, there is a part without tufas and I couldn't do two single moves. From the last bolt to the anchor it's again easier. Extremely powerful, I have to improve my max power for this.
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7c | |||||||||
7c | ★★ Comme les Destins Conduisent | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | 1997 | |||||
2nd try.
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7c | ★★★ Fulk you - with ToxicD | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | |||||
Nice route. Starts in the back of a small cave. First, you traverse to your left on underclings in a roof before turning the lip. Apart from one hard move to reach the tufa on your left, the part after the lip is just jugs and a really good climb.
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7b+ | |||||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Jus de Fantaisie | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 5th Jul 2009 | |||||
#2go Magnifique colonnette !! Très belle voie.
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7b+ ~7c+ | ★★ La petite Hulkotte - with ToxicD | 12m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | ||||
Called 'La Hulkotte Clandestine' in our guidebook. A shorter route, but the moves are continuously hard right from the start all the way to the anchors. Felt harder than all the other routes I tried and it's definitely harder than 7b+ in my opinion.
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7b+ | ★★★ Chiée de voie pour la patronne - with ToxicD | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | |||||
Nice vertical face climbing. Got to the second to last quickdraw where I ran out of power. Going from the last quickdraw to the anchor is quite hard - you have to establish yourself on the slab above the vertical part of the wall.
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7b | |||||||||
7b | ★★★ Rattlesnake | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | 1997 | |||||
Bauchet, Tufa heaven
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7b | ★ Lait chaud de la mamie molle - with Moxi | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Good | Thu 22nd Jul 2021 | |||||
Way too warm
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7b | ★★★ Rattlesnake | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 6th Jul 2009 | |||||
#2go Enormes colonnes !! Vraiment original et marrant à grimper. Pas si facile !!
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7a+ | |||||||||
7a+ Hard | ★★ Le clocheton du chicon - with Michael Laraia | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Sep 2023 | |||||
Quite hard, too hard for warming up. Actually quite good, and the upper part is better and less chossy than it looks.
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7a | |||||||||
7a | ★★★ Serie Limitèe - with Stephen Varney | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 11th Nov 2017 | ||||
Yes, this baby has earned a rare Mega Classic from me. 8 pitches, and not one of them less than "very good" in my books. The initial 4 very thin slab pitches lead to 4 steep and punchy pitches (including a tufa!) on the headwall. Seriously Alpine temps (we almost bailed after multiple pitches of screaming barfies) and we were obliged to tow way more cold weather gear than I ever have on a rock climb before. Led P2, P5, P6, P7, and P8, and 2nd clean all other pitches. Very psyched to onsight the nails and exposed 7a pitch (stuck the crux boulder by the skin of my teeth), but the ascent was marred by a fall at the end of the tufa boulder on the first 6c pitch. The last pitch became a shemozzle as we raced the darkess to the top to find the rap anchors in daylight.
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7a | ★★★ Serie Limitèe - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 27th Nov 2017 | ||||
Awesome. Such great adventure-sport climbing. Led clean P1, P3, P4, and had mixed success following clean on the other pitches. P5 and P8 were sandbagged in my opinion. It was so cold but was worth it.
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7a | ★★★ Serie Limitèe (Série limitée) | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th May 2017 | ||||
The 7a pitch is definitely 7a! The harder the pitch, the coolest the climb!
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7a | ★★ Tribulacion de Gabachos - with Moxi | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Good | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | |||||
Elbow pain got worse at the undercling, not worth to push it...
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6c |
★★ Les salades de l’apocalypse (Les salades de l’apocalypse P1)
- with
Philip
1
6c
| Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Thu 22nd Jul 2021 | |||||
What an amazing location!!!
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7a | FA ★★★ Le rateau d'argent | 250m, 3 | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 17th Jul 2022 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Serie Limitèe | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Tue 30th Aug 2022 | |||||
7a | ★★ Le Trou du Hulk | 25m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Mon 28th Aug 2023 | ||||
Tried the start
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7a | ★★ Hulk Hulk Klan - with ToxicD | 30m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | ||||
Easy up to the overhanging section, then pumpy to the anchors. Fell at the second to last quickdraw when it's easier to take some holds below you instead of continuing upwards.
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6c+ | |||||||||
6c+ | ★★ Valse Pour Manon | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Jun 2014 | ||||
If you did the variant 6a+ last pitch instead of the 6c+ pitch, this would be the Bunny Bucket Buttress of the Verdon. Each pitch is better than the last, and the top 3 are rad and hard! I led the odd-numbered pitches (linked p3 & 4), and was stoked to onsight the crux final pitch in the rain. Stunning nails blank 40m slab that kept me fighting the whole way. Did the 200m abseil in torrential rain, hid in a cave for 3 hours, then had an epic retreat across the flooded verdon river via tyrolean.
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6b+ 6c+ | ★★ Valse Pour Manon - with Karine Deberdt, Maurice de Jonge | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Jun 2017 | ||||
Awesome day out in the Gorge du verdin.....first route here and it won't be the last.
Did alternate finish.......the raps off were super intense and the longest I have done.
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6c+ | ★★ Cruelles Esperances - with Moxi | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | |||||
Way too warm and no wind
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6c+ | ★★ Cruelles Esperances | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | |||||
Très variée
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6c+ | ★★ Valse Pour Manon | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Aug 2022 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ Tandem pour une évidence | 250m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Tue 30th Aug 2022 | |||||
6c | |||||||||
6c | ★ L'Edulkation Nationale - with Seb Blach | 18m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Mon 8th Oct 2018 | |||||
Not sure if this was the route but the one I did was 6c or 6c+.
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6c | Madame Reve Variant - with Moxi | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | |||||
Ugly start and the top is also not the best
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6c | Arbragifle | 200m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Don't Bother | Tue 30th Aug 2022 | ||||
6c | Dièdre de l'oursinade | 250m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Tue 30th Aug 2022 | |||||
6b+ A2 | |||||||||
6b+ A2 6b+ A2 | ★★ Les enragés | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Aug 2022 | ||||
6b+ A2 6b+ A2 | ★★ Les enragés | 300m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Aug 2022 | ||||
6b+ | |||||||||
6b+ | Pilier gauche du fauteuil | 250m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Tue 30th Aug 2022 | |||||
6b+ | ★ Parle à mon Hulk — 2 attempts - with Fabian Michel | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Good | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | |||||
Bouldery moves at the second bolt, afterwards cool crimps.
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6b+ Easy |
★★★ Petra Aliena
- with
Dirk
1
6b
30
lead by
ToxicD
Steep start into the route. Some tricky moves to get through some sections. For me this was the hardest pitch of the route, maybe because it was the warmup.
2
5c
15
lead by
Dirk
Very easy traverse.
3
6b
30
lead by
ToxicD
Technical and vertical wall. Never super easy and blender super hard. Always time to rest in between. Awesome pitch.
4
6b
40
lead by
Dirk
Long pitch, starts with a juggy traverse to the left and crosses the wall to the right. A short slabby section with some crimps are the crux of this pitch. The traverse before the anchor is pretty easy if you find all holds.
6
6b+
30
lead by
Dirk
Steep start, afterwards a traverse to the left. Don't traverse to early. Pretty cool pitch and there's almost everywhere a jug to rest. Soft for 6b+. | 170m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Sep 2023 | ||||
Every pitch is pretty cool. Mostly steep climbing with very good hand and footholds. All in all relatively soft for the grade, compared to other routes on the other side of the gorge.
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6b | |||||||||
6b | ★★★ Moule au Cade - with Seb Blach | 20m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Mon 8th Oct 2018 | |||||
Not sure if this was the route but the one I did was 6b or 6b+.
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6b | ★★★ Allo rdure ici vom | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 30th Aug 2023 | |||||
Fell at the 2nd boulder crux
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6a+ | |||||||||
6a+ | Asia | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Sat 11th Aug 2007 | |||||
Artificial holds. Strange route but nice
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6a+ | Asia | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Tue 2nd Oct 2007 | |||||
Ridiculous glue on hold make the crux easier
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6a+ | Asia - with Simon Roguet | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Sep 2019 | |||||
Crux en fin de voie
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6a+ | Outrages du Temps | Les Gorges du Verdon | Wed 18th Jul 2012 | ||||||
worth the risk..
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6a+ | ★★★ Toa - with Moxi | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Mon 19th Jul 2021 | |||||
Really good for a 6a+ climb
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6a+ | ★★★ Toa - with Cury, Moxi, Philip, Jim, Leo | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Wed 21st Jul 2021 | |||||
Mostly jugs, partly like beautiful mini-cave-formations. Unfortunately I misread the moves and got too pumped
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6a+ | ★★★ Toa - with Cury, Moxi, Philip, Jim, Leo | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Wed 21st Jul 2021 | |||||
Got too early pumped and fell in the middle part. Was not a good attempt
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6a+ | ★★★ Toa - with Cury, Moxi, Philip, Jim, Leo | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Wed 21st Jul 2021 | |||||
Made it well, managed the crux, but got too pumped , so no redpoint But this attempt left me with a good feeling that a redpoint was just a matter of time after a good rest
The diversity of the moves and the rock are a real fun |
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6a+ | ★★ L'Ange Raphaël | 180m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Tue 30th Aug 2022 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Le feu au Hulk sortie G - with Fabian Michel | 22m | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | ||||
Great climbing from the start to the end. Slabby finish on slopers and spicy bolting before the anchor.
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6a | |||||||||
6a | ★★ Et Toc la Tete | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Jun 2005 | |||||
With backpack trying to escape storm
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6a | Docteur Es-Taille | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Tue 2nd Oct 2007 | |||||
hardish. riduicluous glue ons!
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6a | ★ Delire a Deux | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Good | Wed 24th Aug 2011 | |||||
Friendly rat in the half-way hole.
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4a 6a | ★ Delire a Deux - with Philip, Jim | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Mon 19th Jul 2021 | |||||
To the first anchor, so Jim can do toprope
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5c+ | |||||||||
5c+ | Djett' Djett' Djett' | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Mon 9th Aug 2004 | |||||
Gym holds bolted on. Wary of roofs on the Soloist.
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5c+ | ★ Gavade | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Sat 11th Aug 2007 | |||||
Nice strarting traverse
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5c+ | ★ Gavade | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Oct 2007 | |||||
Easy nice route. No glue ons!
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5c+ | Les Mille Pattes | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Tue 10th Aug 2004 | |||||
I put all these Verdon climbs on thecrag.com; I'm gonna bloody tick 'em!
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5c+ | Djett' Djett' Djett' | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Tue 2nd Oct 2007 | |||||
overhang with dick like holds glued on
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5c | |||||||||
5c | Sangsue Prise | Les Gorges du Verdon | Don't Bother | Tue 10th Aug 2004 | |||||
Kinda a little crack/corner.
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5c | Vertikinverss' | Les Gorges du Verdon | Don't Bother | Tue 10th Aug 2004 | |||||
Chip city.
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5c | ★ Lotantique | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Good | Mon 9th Aug 2004 | |||||
Interesting start and finish.
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5c | En Vers et Contre Tout | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Sep 2021 | |||||
two pitches, crag, layback, wall, loose rocks at the top. long route. perfekt view on the lake. Feels like a summit.
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5b+ | |||||||||
5b+ | ★ Entre Toy ...Emoi | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Good | Tue 10th Aug 2004 | |||||
A little airy bridging.
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5b+ | M.Bidouillage | Les Gorges du Verdon | Don't Bother | Tue 10th Aug 2004 | |||||
Chip city.
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5b+ | M.Bidouillage | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Tue 2nd Oct 2007 | |||||
chips and glue ons galore
|
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5b+ | ★★ En Tonne y Soit (Qui Mal y Pense) - with simon roguet | 20m, 8 | Les Gorges du Verdon | Thu 5th Sep 2019 | |||||
Une ascension en arête plutôt technique avec des clippages pas évidents pour du 5b.
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5b+ | Fleuer de Buis | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Good | Thu 6th May 2021 | |||||
2 longueurs 5b+ avec un relai sympa entre les 2
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5b | |||||||||
5b | Du Mou pour le Chat | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Mon 9th Aug 2004 | |||||
Pleasant enough.
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5b | Big Bosse | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Tue 10th Aug 2004 | |||||
Unattractive landing area for a solo.
|
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5b | Big Bosse | Les Gorges du Verdon | Don't Bother | Tue 2nd Oct 2007 | |||||
chips galore
|
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5b | La Terre Aime le Soleil | Les Gorges du Verdon | Don't Bother | Tue 10th Aug 2004 | |||||
Chip city.
|
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5b | ★★ Une Paire de Trois | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Wed 24th Aug 2011 | |||||
Only a couple of worthwhile moves.
|
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5b | ★★ Une Paire de Trois - with Moxi, Philip, Jim, Cury, Leo | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★★★ Classic | Mon 19th Jul 2021 | |||||
Und der Regen kam
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5a+ | |||||||||
5a+ | N'oublie pas mes Petits Souliers... | Les Gorges du Verdon | Don't Bother | Mon 9th Aug 2004 | |||||
Overgraded - don't the French know how to chimney?
|
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5a+ | Couleur Lilas | Les Gorges du Verdon | Don't Bother | Tue 10th Aug 2004 | |||||
Chip city.
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5a+ | ★★ Fraluc | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Wed 24th Aug 2011 | |||||
Climbs better than it looks.
|
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5a+ | Autour des Frijoles | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Mon 22nd Aug 2011 | |||||
No grabbing the tree!
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5a | |||||||||
5a | Tulipes Timides | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Mon 9th Aug 2004 | |||||
Moment of concern topping out.
|
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5a | Classes Uniques | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Tue 10th Aug 2004 | |||||
Chip city.
|
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5a | Tulipes Timides | Les Gorges du Verdon | Don't Bother | Tue 2nd Oct 2007 | |||||
pissed off a german by using his rope!
|
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5a | Dindon Dina Dit-On... | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Tue 2nd Oct 2007 | |||||
chips and glue ons galore
|
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5a | On Niva | Les Gorges du Verdon | Don't Bother | Mon 9th Aug 2004 | |||||
Disappoints.
|
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5a | Dindon Dina Dit-On... | Les Gorges du Verdon | Don't Bother | Tue 10th Aug 2004 | |||||
Chip city.
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5a | Le Roi des Chevres | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Wed 24th Aug 2011 | |||||
Deadpoint!
|
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4c+ | |||||||||
4c+ | Mini-Mome | Les Gorges du Verdon | Don't Bother | 2004 | |||||
Small beginners' wall with chipped holds.
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4c+ | Maxi-Mome | Les Gorges du Verdon | Don't Bother | 2004 | |||||
Small beginners' wall with chipped holds.
|
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4c+ | Coeur de Roche | Les Gorges du Verdon | Don't Bother | Tue 10th Aug 2004 | |||||
Easy open corner.
|
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4c+ | Coeur de Roche | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Tue 2nd Oct 2007 | |||||
chips and glue ons galore
|
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4c+ | O'Timmins | Les Gorges du Verdon | ★ Good | Tue 23rd Aug 2011 | |||||
Where's it go above the trees?
|
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4c | |||||||||
4c | Ma Dalton | Les Gorges du Verdon | Average | Mon 22nd Aug 2011 | |||||
Not memorable.
|