A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Nans Toullec Yoann C Yannick Saury arthur miau aaricola Maxime CHIONO Xavier Hgs Amandine Loury Némo
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Roquevaire / Lascours
353 in Area
-
1.1.
Le Grand Vallon 200 in Area
- 1.1.1. Petit mur 5 in Sector
- 1.1.2. Météo 54 in Cliff
- 1.1.3. Basse pression 13 in Sector
- 1.1.4. Sanctuaire 23 in Sector
- 1.1.5. Graffiti 49 in Cliff
- 1.1.6. Yakuza 7 in Sector
- 1.1.7. Belle dalle 16 in Sector
- 1.1.8. Hors saison 16 in Sector
- 1.1.9. Grand pilier 4 in Sector
- 1.1.10. Isoloir 3 in Sector
- 1.1.11. Panoramic 10 in Sector
-
1.2.
Les Dansaïres 104 in Area
- 1.2.1. Mur gris 17 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Weltmeister 10 in Sector
- 1.2.3. Secteur fantôme 13 in Sector
- 1.2.4. Le bombé 17 in Sector
- 1.2.5. Minisud 41 in Cliff
- 1.2.6. Coliséum 6 in Sector
- 1.2.7. Abri bus 0 in Sector
-
1.3.
Le vallon du Marseillais 49 in Cliff
- 1.3.1. Méduse 29 in Sector
- 1.3.2. Orage d'été 20 in Sector
-
1.1.
Le Grand Vallon 200 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Roquevaire 353 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.346597, 5.569357
access issues
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/
ethic
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
1.1. Le Grand Vallon 200 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.348277, 5.569589
1.1.1. Petit mur 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.348540, 5.573348
description
It's the closest sector and the only intiation one.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Les drus | 4c | 15m | |||
2 | Le nose | 4c | 15m | |||
3 | Le K2 | 4a | 15m | |||
4 | Le pic | 3c | 15m | |||
5 |
Le Mont Blanc
Same start as "Le pic". | 5c | 15m |
1.1.2. Météo 54 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.348071, 5.572472
history
When not precised routes has been bolted by Sylvie Basin, Jean-Philippe Dalbavie, Yann Codan, Julien Renaud, Jean-Louis Ségu, Philippe Chaberty, Laurent Aublette, François Lombard, Olivier Arette-Hourquet and some interns of UF2 & CREPS of Aix-en-Provence.
1.1.2.1. Gauche 31 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.347888, 5.572327
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Eclispe | 6a | 12m | |||
2 | Temps beau | 5c | 12m | |||
3 | Temps clair | 5c | 12m | |||
4 |
Temps mort
Same start as "?" goes straight up. | 5c | 14m | |||
5 |
?
Same start as "Temps mort" goes on the right. | 6c | 14m | |||
6 |
L'appat ratcihk
Set: Hervé Guigliarelli | 7b | 14m | |||
7 |
Chinook
Very bouldery start. Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 7a | 14m | |||
8 |
Sire rocco
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 7a+ | 15m | |||
9 | La brise au vent | 6b | 15m | |||
10 | Gulf stream | 6a | 16m | |||
11 |
Jet stream
Link between "Gulf stream" and "Accalmie". Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6b+ | 16m | |||
12 |
Accalmie
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a | 16m | |||
13 | La purjus | 7a+ | 16m | |||
14 |
Strato-musculo-nimbus
Set: Hervé Guigliarelli & Carine Maze | 7b+ | 12m | |||
15 |
Bêta-bloqué
Grade to be confirmed. Set: Hervé Guigliarelli | 7b+ | 17m | |||
16 |
Le rouge qui tache
Set: Jean Devaud | 6c | 18m | |||
17 | L'agonie minérale | 6c+ | 16m | |||
18 |
Rosalie
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6b | 17m | |||
19 |
Nanti-cyclone
Becomes 7b by going straight and the end overhang. Set: Gwenaël Drouot & Hervé Guigliarelli | 7a | 17m | |||
20 |
La codan
Set: Yann Codan | 6b+ | 18m | |||
21 | Entre terre et poussière | 6b | 18m | |||
22 | Le Mistral | 6a+ | 18m | |||
23 |
La lombarde
Set: François Lombard | 6c+ | 18m | |||
24 |
La rivas
By climbing on the left can be 6c+/7a. Same start as "Ciel de traine". Set: Pierre Rivas | 18m | ||||
25 |
Ciel de traine
Same start as "La rivas". Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a | 18m | |||
26 |
La rosée calcaire
Same end as "Reine aux doigts d'ivoire". Goes on the left to finish at the anchor of "Ciel de traine". Set: Gwenaël Drouot & Hervé Guigliarelli | 6c+ | 18m | |||
27 |
Reine aux doigts d'ivoire
Same end as "La rosée calcaire". Goes on the left to finish at the anchor of "Ciel de traine". Set: Gwenaël Drouot & Hervé Guigliarelli | 6c+ | 18m | |||
28 |
Calme plat
Same start as "Ca dérouille" goes slightly on the left. | 6b | 18m | |||
29 |
Ca dérouille
Same start as "Calme plat" goes on the right. | 7a | 18m | |||
30 | Dédale | 6b | 18m | |||
31 |
Microclim
Set: Jean-Philippe Dalbavie | 7a | 15m |
1.1.2.2. Droite 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.348148, 5.572916
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Athéna | 6a | 15m | |||
2 |
★ Euridice
Set: Sylvie Basin & Jean-Philippe Dalbavie | 6a | 15m | |||
3 | Télémaque | 5a | 15m | |||
4 | ★ Bacchus | 5c | 18m | |||
5 | Minotaure | 6b | 18m | |||
6 |
Le blason
Same start as "Cool jazz" goes slightly on the left. | 6c | 18m | |||
7 |
Cool jazz
Same start as "Le blason" goes on the right. | 6b | 18m | |||
8 | Pas de pic | 7a | 17m | |||
9 |
Junior
Set: Papick Bracco & Jean-Philippe Dalbavie | 7a | 15m | |||
10 |
Nabot Léon
Set: Jean Devaud & Hervé Guigliarelli | 7b | 15m | |||
11 |
Juju
Same start as "Le petit Nicolas" goes straight up. Set: Julien Devaud | 6b+ | 15m | |||
12 |
Le petit Nicolas
Same start as "Juju" traverse right under the roof. Set: Julien Devaud & Hervé Guigliarelli | 7c | 18m | |||
13 |
Court circuit
Set: Hervé Guigliarelli | 7c+ | 16m | |||
14 |
Court jus
Grade to be proposed/confirmed. Set: Hervé Guigliarelli | 16m | ||||
15 |
Virga
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6c | 16m | |||
16 |
Vent d'autan
Same start as "Alizé" end at the anchor under the bush. A link with "Virga" to the left is possible (6a+ too). Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a+ | 14m | |||
17 |
Alizé
Same start as "Vent d'autan" end at the upper right of the bush. Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a | 16m | |||
18 |
Blizzard
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a | 16m | |||
19 |
Zéphyr
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a | 16m | |||
20 | Masstrich la fissure ! | 6a+ | 16m | |||
21 | Les 15 | 6c | 16m | |||
22 |
Maya
Same anchor as "The crux". Set: Jean-Philippe Dalbavie & Jean-Louis Ségu | 4a | 10m | |||
23 |
The crux
Same anchor as "Maya". FA: Jean-Philippe Dalbavie & Jean-Louis ségu | 3c | 10m |
1.1.3. Basse pression 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.347752, 5.571772
history
Has been bolted for an amateur contest.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Lacours d'école
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 5c | 20m | |||
2 |
Cap Horn
Set: Jean-Philippe Dalbavie, Laurent Aublette, Pierre Rivas & Daniel Gorgeon | 5c+ | 20m | |||
3 |
Tuyster
Set: Jean-Philippe Dalbavie, Laurent Aublette, Pierre Rivas & Daniel Gorgeon | 6b | 20m | |||
4 |
L'inconnu
Set: Jean-Philippe Dalbavie, Laurent Aublette, Pierre Rivas & Daniel Gorgeon | 6a | 20m | |||
5 |
Avis de recherche
Set: Jean-Philippe Dalbavie, Laurent Aublette, Pierre Rivas & Daniel Gorgeon | 6b | 20m | |||
6 |
The foot intellect
Set: Jean-Philippe Dalbavie, Laurent Aublette, Pierre Rivas & Daniel Gorgeon | 6b+ | 20m | |||
7 |
Déferlante
Set: Jean-Philippe Dalbavie, Laurent Aublette, Pierre Rivas & Daniel Gorgeon | 6c | 20m | |||
8 |
Panic à bord
Set: Jean-Philippe Dalbavie, Laurent Aublette, Pierre Rivas & Daniel Gorgeon | 6a+ | 20m | |||
9 |
Courant d'r (P1)
Set: Jean-Philippe Dalbavie, Laurent Aublette, Pierre Rivas & Daniel Gorgeon | 4c | 17m | |||
10 |
Courant d'r
Set: Jean-Philippe Dalbavie, Laurent Aublette, Pierre Rivas & Daniel Gorgeon | 6b | 20m | |||
11 |
Lascours des miracles
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6c+ | 20m | |||
12 |
Fenêtre sur Lascours
Same anchor as "Lascours élémentaire". Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a+ | 20m | |||
13 |
Lascours élémentaire
Same anchor as "Fenêtre sur Lascours". Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 5c+ | 20m |
1.1.4. Sanctuaire 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.348294, 5.571076
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Rapido Jojo
Remote route, 30 meters on the left of "Le dièdre". Set: Philipe Chaberty | 6c+ | ||||
2 |
Le dièdre
Set: Arnaud Hennetier & Pierre Rivas | 6b | 20m | |||
3 |
★ Les primates
Set: Pierre Rivas | 6a | 20m | |||
4 |
Avis de déchet
Set: Jean Devaud | 7a | 30m | |||
5 |
C. - K. 1
Set: Christophe Kern | 7a | 18m | |||
6 |
La connexion du bouffon
Start in "C. - K. 1", goes on the right to the anchor of "Big fun". Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie | 7b | 30m | |||
7 |
Big fun
Set: Julien Renaud & Jean Philippe Baldavie | 7c+ | 30m | |||
8 |
C. - K. 2 (P1)
Set: Christophe Kern | 7b+ | 20m | |||
9 |
C. - K. 2
Set: Christophe Kern | 7c+ | 30m | |||
10 |
C. - K. 3
Set: Christophe Kern | 7a+ | 20m | |||
11 |
La colo
Becomes 8a by climbing strickly straight bewteen spits. Set: Christophe Kern | 7c+ | 18m | |||
12 |
St Jeunet
Set: Jean-Luc Jeunet | 7c | 18m | |||
13 |
Akirira
Set: Jean-Luc Jeunet & Laurent Fourbet | 8b+ | 20m | |||
14 |
Mélisse
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie & Paul Dewilde | 7c+ | 20m | |||
15 |
Un singe en hiver
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie & Daniel Gorgeon | 7c | 20m | |||
16 |
Sanctuaire
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie, Daniel Gorgeon & Philippe Charberty | 7a+ | 20m | |||
17 |
Sanctuaire en hiver
Start in "Sanctuaire", after the two cruxes goes on the left to the anchor of "Un singe en hiver". FA: Jean Philipe Baldavie, Daniel Gorgeon & Philippe Chaberty | 7b | 20m | |||
18 |
Stasy end
Set: Jean Philipe Baldavie & Stéphane Wyns | 8a | 20m | |||
19 |
★★ Séance péda
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie & S. Wyns | 6b+ | 20m | |||
20 |
Persépolis
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6c | 20m | |||
21 |
Enimathèque
Set: Stéphane Guillaume | 6c | 20m | |||
22 |
Tropicana
Set: Igor Martinez | 7b | 20m | |||
23 |
A la poursuite du calamar
Set: Bruno Taddeï | 7a+ | 20m |
1.1.5. Graffiti 49 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.348597, 5.569421
1.1.5.1. Gauche 29 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.348629, 5.569038
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
A vot' service m'sieurs dames
Remote route, up on the ledge 15 meters on the left. Set: Paul Dewilde, 1999 | 5c | ||||||
Left wall | ||||||||
3 |
Privat investing
Set: Philipe Chaberty & Bernard Privat | 6a | 20m | |||||
4 |
L'inconu
Set: Philippe Légier, Daniel Gorgeon & Julien Renaud | 6c | 35m | |||||
5 |
Les pépettes
Set: Philippe Légier, Daniel Gorgeon & Julien Renaud | 6c+ | 35m | |||||
Big center wall | ||||||||
7 |
La peste brune
Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1998 | 7c+ | 35m | |||||
8 |
Dièdre Guidi
Set: Olivier Guidi | 7a | 35m | |||||
9 |
Ion ti souris
Set: Julien Renaud | 8a | 35m | |||||
10 |
Pour les mouves / Colo-Net
Set: Norbert Apicella, 1996 | 8a | 35m | |||||
11 |
La critique
Set: Paul Dewilde, 1999 | 7c+ | 35m | |||||
12 |
Les bleaux arts (L1)
Set: Paul Dewilde, 1998 | 7a+ | 15m | |||||
13 |
Les bleaux arts
Set: Paul Dewilde, 1998 | 8b | 40m | |||||
14 |
La discrète
Set: Bernard Privat | 7a+ | 15m | |||||
15 |
La cerise sur le gateau
Set: Paul Dewilde, 1998 | 8a+ | 30m | |||||
16 |
The groove gang (L1)
Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1999 | 7b | 18m | |||||
17 |
The groove gang
Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1999 | 7c | 40m | |||||
18 |
Bienvenue en Côte d'Ivoire (L1)
Set: Alex Duboc, 1998 | 7a | 18m | |||||
19 |
Bienvenue en Côte d'Ivoire
Set: Alex Duboc, 1998 | 7c+ | 40m | |||||
20 |
Impression d'Afrique
Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1998 | 8a | 40m | |||||
21 |
Le tunnel
Set: Norbert Apicella & Daniel Gorgeon | 5c | 15m | |||||
22 |
Croutes que coute
Same start as "Céréalles killer". After the first anchor, goes straight up. Set: Paul Dewilde, 1999 | 8b | 40m | |||||
23 |
Céréalles killer
Same start as "Croutes que coute". After the first anchor, goes slightly on the right then goes back on the left to rejoin the anchor of "Croutes que coute" . Set: Paul Dewilde, 1997 | 8c | 40m | |||||
24 |
Osmose
Same start as "Céréalles killer". After the first anchor, goes slightly on the right too, but keeps right linking with "Symbiose". Set: Paul Dewilde | 8c+ | 40m | |||||
25 |
L'échelle
Set: Norbert Apicella & Daniel Gorgeon | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
26 |
Symbiose
Set: Paul Dewilde, 1998 | 8b+ | 40m | |||||
27 |
Déséquilibre Technique Naturel / DTN
Same start as "Symbiose", goes straight up and end at "Apothéose" anchor. Set: Paul Dewilde FA: Rémy Bergasse, 2011 | 9a | 40m | |||||
28 |
Apothéose
Has yet to be freed. In 2011, Rémy Bergasse did "DTN", a variant with a different start which is itself 9a. Start a the right of "Symbiose" then goes left to link with the last. Set: Paul Dewilde | 9a+ | 40m | |||||
29 |
Délicate et zen (L1)
Set: Paul Dewilde & Alex Duboc, 1999 | 5c | 12m | |||||
30 |
Délicate et zen
Set: Paul Dewilde & Alex Duboc, 1999 | 8b+ | 35m | |||||
31 |
Accro au Samson
Set: Paul Dewilde, 1997 | 8a | 35m |
1.1.5.2. Droite 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.348559, 5.569879
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Toile de fond
Set: Sylvie Basin, Daniel Gorgeon & Philippe Légier | 6a+ | 30m | |||
2 |
Tendon maniaque
Set: Sylvie Basin, Daniel Gorgeon & Philippe Légier | 6c+ | 30m | |||
3 |
Légende du roi
Set: Daniel Gorgeon & Sylvie Basin | 6c | 30m | |||
4 |
★ Démina Home
Set: Daniel Gorgeon & Sylvie Basin | 6b+ | 30m | |||
5 | ★★ Sticules | 7a | 30m | |||
6 |
★★★ La Jeanphitéatre
Set: Jean-Philippe Dalbavie & Jean-Louis Ségu | 6c | 30m | |||
7 |
L'erreur est humaine
Set: Thierry Cienzo | 7b+ | 18m | |||
8 |
Le nouveau monde
Set: Thierry Cienzo | 7b | 18m | |||
9 |
Welcome sur le forum
Set: Thierry Cienzo | 8a+ | 18m | |||
10 |
N'oublie pas d'être heureux
Set: Thierry Cienzo | 7c+ | 35m | |||
11 |
Figure imposée
Grade to be confirmed. Set: Thierry Cienzo | 8b | 32m | |||
12 |
Cannabis répétita
Set: Gérôme Pouvreau | 8b+ | 32m | |||
13 |
Cannabis direct
Grade to be confirmed. Same end as "Luxe, calme et volupté". Set: Thierry Cienzo | 8c | 32m | |||
14 |
Luxe, calme et volupté
Grade to be confirmed. Same end as "Cannabis direct". Set: Thierry Cienzo | 8b | 32m | |||
15 |
Plus belle la barque
Same start as "Joute aimable à lance courtoisie". Grade to be confirmed Set: Loïc Didion FA: Max Binczyk, 8 Jan 2021 | 8c | ||||
16 |
Joute aimable à lance courtoisie
Set: Thierry Cienzo | 7c | 30m | |||
17 |
La tournée du patron
Same start as "Crépi crépu", goes straight up. Set: Loïc Didion | 7b+ | 30m | |||
18 |
Crépi crépu
Same start as "La tournée du patron", goes on the right then come back left to finish at the same anchor. Set: Thierry Cienzo | 7c | 30m | |||
19 |
20 ans après
Same anchor as "La ligne de fuite". Set: Thierry Cienzo | 7c+ | 30m | |||
20 |
La ligne de fuite
Same anchor as "20 ans après". Set: Thierry Cienzo | 7c+ | 30m |
1.1.6. Yakuza 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.348360, 5.568479
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
El loco
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie | 6b | 15m | |||
2 |
El fada
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie | 7a | 15m | |||
3 |
Mercado negro
Set: Dominique Page | 7c | 15m | |||
4 |
Sexe, drogue et roc en rôle
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie & Olivier Didon | 7c+ | 30m | |||
5 |
Yakuza
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie & Fred Ripert | 7b | 30m | |||
6 |
Le poli Paulo
Same start as "Génocide" goes on the left right after the roof on the left. Set: Paul Dewilde | 7a | 30m | |||
7 |
Génocide
Same start as "Le poli Paulo" goes straight up. Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie | 7a | 30m |
1.1.7. Belle dalle 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.348050, 5.567867
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Upper sector | ||||||||
2 |
La grosse nécaille
Be careful up to the 3rd spit. Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie & Olivier Didon | 6c+ | 35m | |||||
3 |
Gwena vista social pub
Same start as "Po rouge", goes straight up. Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie & Gwenaël Drouot | 7a | 30m | |||||
4 |
Po rouge
Same start as "Gwena vista social pub", goes on the right (of the bush) then finish at the anchor of "Pagaille". Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie | 7b | 35m | |||||
5 |
Y a rien dans l'pneu
Set: Olivier Didon | 7c+ | 35m | |||||
6 |
Pagaille
Goes left, follows the crack all way long. Set: Yann Codan & Sylvain Patel | 6a | ||||||
7 |
El professor
Set: Cyril Leménestrel | 8a | 35m | |||||
8 |
La voie lactique
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie | 7c | 35m | |||||
9 |
Recrue bachelourd
Same start as "Vas et cours" goes slightly on the left to the highest anchor. Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6b+ | 35m | |||||
10 |
Vas et cours
Same start as "Recrue bachelourd" goes straight up. Set: Yann Codan, Anne Delmotte & Christophe Noël | 6b | 30m | |||||
11 |
Y. - C. 1
FA: Yann Codan, Anne Delmotte & Christophe Noël | 6a | 35m | |||||
Lower sector | ||||||||
13 |
Chêne qui pique
Set: Yann Codan & Charlie | 5c | 12m | |||||
14 |
Chêne en plastique
Set: Yann Codan & Christophe Noël | 6c | 15m | |||||
15 |
Y. - C. 2
FA: Yann Codan & Christophe Noël | 7a+ | 15m | |||||
16 |
Y. - C. 3
Set: Yann Codan & Patrick Freze | 6a | 15m | |||||
17 |
Pas tranquille
Set: Yann Codan & Christophe Noël | 6b | 15m | |||||
18 |
Y. - C. 4
Very bouldery start. FA: Yann Codan & Christophe Noël | 6b+ | 15m |
1.1.8. Hors saison 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.348046, 5.567383
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Par toutendis
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie | 7b | 22m | |||
2 |
Sex toy
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie, Paul Barnéoud & Gwenaël Drouot | 6c | 22m | |||
3 |
Terraleva
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie | 6c | 22m | |||
4 |
Lavaterra
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6c | 22m, 2 | |||
5 |
Ora serata
Start on the left of "Lavaterra", few meters lower. Follows the dihedral up to the first pitch anchor of "Lavaterra" then goes slightly on the left to the anchor of "Terraleva". Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6b+ | 25m, 2 | |||
6 |
P.O.R.D.S.A
Set: Paul Barnéoud & Gwenaël Drouot | 6c | 25m | |||
7 |
Basera, basera pas
Set: Paul Barnéoud & Gwenaël Drouot | 6c+ | 25m | |||
8 | Route "H" | 25m | ||||
9 |
Caïus gravus
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6c+ | 25m | |||
10 |
Epigone
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6b+ | 25m | |||
11 | Route "K" | 25m | ||||
12 |
Olybrius
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a | 25m | |||
13 |
Résonance
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a+ | 25m | |||
14 |
Bharati
Same anchor as "Pashimina". Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 5c | 25m | |||
15 |
Pashimina
Same anchor as "Bharati". Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6c | 25m | |||
16 |
Namdâ
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a+ | 20m |
1.1.9. Grand pilier 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.348882, 5.566462
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Loya
5c+ mandatory. Sling if needed for P4. Set: Anja Elgeti, Gwenaël Drouot & Roman Lukas | 6c A0 | 100m, 5 | |||
2 |
Romanja
5c+ mandatory. Sling if needed for P4. Set: Anja Elgeti, Gwenaël Drouot & Roman Lukas | 6c A0 | 100m, 4 | |||
3 |
Le cimetière de la morale
5c+ mandatory. Friends and straps required. Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie, Olivier Didon & Gwenaël Drouot | 6a | 100m, 3 | |||
4 |
Philou
Set: Yann Codan & Jean-Pierre Bianchi | 7b | 30m |
1.1.10. Isoloir 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.348640, 5.567808
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
L'instant gauche
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie, Gwenaël Drouot & Daniel Gorgeon | 7a | 20m | |||
2 |
L'isoloir
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie, Guillaume Delapierre & Daniel Gorgeon | 7b | 35m | |||
3 |
La tempera dell'oublia
Set: Jean Laurent Marzzullo | 6c+ | 35m |
1.1.11. Panoramic 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.348917, 5.567069
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Une lueur dans la nuit
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a | 30m | |||
2 |
Le cul de ma poulette
Grade to be confirmed. Set: Olivier Didon & Jean Philippe Dalbavie, 2003 | 7c+ | 30m | |||
3 | Exposition naturelle | 7b+ | 30m | |||
4 |
Caracas
Same first half as "Agathe power" goes straight up (by the left of the bush). Set: Igor Martinez | 7a+ | 30m | |||
5 |
Agathe power
Same first half as "Caracas" goes then on the right, up to the anchor on the right of the bush. Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie & Igor Martinez | 7a | 30m | |||
6 |
Rêve général
Set: Jean Devaud & H. Guigliarelli | 7a | 30m | |||
7 |
Panoramic air line
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie | 7b | 30m | |||
8 |
Sueurs froides
Set: Jean Philipe Dalbavie | 6b+ | 30m | |||
9 |
ONU
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie & Gwenaël Drouot | 6b+ | 30m | |||
10 |
Retouche
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie, Eric Bertin-Maghit, Morgan Colin & Mélanie Turpyn | 5c | 30m |
1.2. Les Dansaïres 104 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.338977, 5.561801
1.2.1. Mur gris 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.338397, 5.564388
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Bringueronne
Set: Dominique Page & Olivier Didon | 4c | 20m | |||
2 |
Lightning cars
Set: Dominique Page & Olivier Didon | 4b | 20m | |||
3 |
Bob l'éponge
Set: Dominique Page | 4b | 20m | |||
4 |
La fille du capitaine Haddock
Set: Dominique Page | 5a+ | 30m | |||
5 |
Les beaux dégats
Set: Dominique Page | 5b+ | 30m | |||
6 |
★ Les danseurs
Set: Dominique Page | 5c+ | 35m | |||
7 |
★ Adieu Zoé
Set: Jean Philippe Dalbavie & Gwenaël Drouot | 5c | 35m | |||
8 |
★ Mond des parpaillouns
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a+ | 35m | |||
9 |
Bouzigue
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a+ | 35m | |||
10 |
★ Lilli des Bellons
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a+ | 35m, 2 | |||
11 |
Be Bop
Two routes for the 2nd pitch. Straight up or on the left, both 6a+. Set: Jean Luc Allinne, Yves Schelinno & Gwenaël Drouot | 6a+ | 35m, 2 | |||
12 |
★★ Ligne noire
Set: Jean-Luc Alline | 6b+ | 35m, 2 | |||
13 |
★★★ Mini sudiste
Set: Jean-Luc Alline | 6a+ | 35m, 2 | |||
14 |
★ Vingt ans de bordée
Set: Jean Luc Allinne & Pierre Clarac | 6c | 35m | |||
15 |
★★ DIPC
Set: Jean-Luc Alline | 6b+ | 35m | |||
16 |
★★★ Antoine
Set: Jean Luc Allinne & Yves Schelinno | 6a | 35m | |||
17 |
Caroline
Set: Jean Luc Allinne & Yves Schelinno | 5b | 35m |
1.2.2. Weltmeister 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.338414, 5.563943
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Fan Fest
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a+ | 30m | |||
2 |
Les vieux dans les bleus
Start in "Fan Fest", after the 8th spit, go up right to the anchor of "Weltmeister". Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a+ | 30m, 13 | |||
3 |
On vit ensemble
Same start and anchor as "On meurt ensemble", left route. Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6c | 25m | |||
4 |
On meurt ensemble
Same start and anchor as "On vit ensemble", right route. Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6c | 25m | |||
5 |
Finale d'honneur
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6c+ | 25m | |||
6 |
★★★ Zidaninho
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6c+ | 25m | |||
7 |
Weltmeister
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6c+ | 25m | |||
8 |
Maitrise collective
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a+ | 22m | |||
9 |
Elimin'action directe
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 6a+ | 22m | |||
10 |
Échauffement laborieux
Set: Gwenaël Drouot | 5b | 22m |
1.2.3. Secteur fantôme 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.337865, 5.563443
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Fan fan de chichoune | 5a | 12m | |||
2 | Fan de tomate | 5c | 12m | |||
3 | Le renégat | 6c | 12m | |||
4 |
Au piquet monsieur G
Same anchor as "Le renégat". | 6b | 12m | |||
5 | Trop petit | 6b | 12m | |||
6 |
Trop mou
Same start as "Trop petit". Just before the middle of the route goes 2 meters on the right and finish to the next right anchor. | 6b | 13m | |||
7 |
Trop dur
Same start as "Trop petit". Just before the middle of the route goes 4 meters on the right and finish to the second next right anchor. | 6b | 14m | |||
8 |
Trop trop
Same start as "Trop petit". Just before the middle of the route traverse on the right to the anchor of "Le loir". | 6b | 20m | |||
9 | Bloc accu | 6c | 13m | |||
10 |
Le masque noir
Same start as "Le loir". Goes slightly on the left. | 5c+ | 10m | |||
11 |
Le loir
Same start as "Le masque noir". Goes straight up. | 5c | 10m | |||
12 | Ego sans trique | 6b | 15m | |||
13 | Le malaise van gaal | 6a | 15m |
1.2.4. Le bombé 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.338934, 5.565819
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Hot fever
Grade to be confirmed. | 8a+ | 15m | |||
2 |
Hot line
Grade to be confirmed. | 7b | 18m | |||
3 |
Zéro cervelle
Set: Jean-Luc Jeunet | 8a | 15m | |||
4 | Lâche toi ! | 7a+ | 15m | |||
5 | Double barracuda | 7b+ | 15m | |||
6 | Triple x | 7b | 15m | |||
7 |
Rien foutre al païs
Set: Jean-Luc Jeunet | 7b | 15m | |||
8 |
Le pape des escargots
7a by ending on the left, at the "Rien foutre al païs" anchor. Set: Jean-Luc Jeunet | 7a+ | 15m | |||
9 | Demencio | 6b+ | 12m | |||
10 | Yellow time | 6c+ | 12m | |||
11 | Dondé la météo | 6c+ | 12m | |||
12 | Titi et graminées | 5c+ | 10m | |||
13 |
La peur du bide
End on the right, at the anchor of "Hot session". | 5c+ | 10m | |||
14 | Hot session | 6a | 10m | |||
15 | La danse du centre | 6c+ | 10m | |||
16 | NZT | 5c | 10m | |||
17 | Limitless | 4c | 10m |
1.2.5. Minisud 41 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.338418, 5.560523
1.2.5.1. Gauche 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.338298, 5.560039
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Les doigts d'Hercule
Set: Fred Ripert | 7b | 25m | |||
2 |
Cyprien est musicien
Set: Fred Ripert | 6b+ | 25m | |||
3 |
L'accordéoniste
Set: Gérard Merlin | 7a | 25m | |||
4 |
Les machicoulis sur arc
Set: Fred Ripert | 7a+ | 25m | |||
5 |
Aryoflak
Set: Fred Ripert | 6c+ | 25m | |||
6 |
Minisud
Set: Fred Ripert | 7b+ | 25m | |||
7 |
L'orage de nos raisons
Set: Fred Ripert | 7c+ | 25m | |||
8 |
Les puristes
Set: Gérard Merlin | 8b | 22m | |||
9 |
Succulent girl
Set: Gérard Merlin & Fred Ripert | 7c+ | 22m | |||
10 |
Louis, Louise
Set: Gérard Merlin | 8b | 22m | |||
11 |
Temps réel
Set: Fred Ripert | 7c+ | 22m | |||
12 |
Descente dans la ronde
Same start as "Garlaban public", goes on the left at the middle of the route. Set: Fred Ripert | 7c | 22m | |||
13 |
Garlaban public
Same start as "Descente dans la ronde", goes straight up. Set: Fred Ripert | 7c+ | 25m | |||
14 |
Manon, je t'aime
Set: Gérard Merlin | 7c+ | 25m |
1.2.5.2. Droite 27 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.338457, 5.560678
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Les authentiques glaces de Salcedo
Same start as "Désir et servitude" goes slightly on the left. Set: Jean-Luc Jeunet | 8a | 22m | |||
2 |
Désir et servitude
Same start as "Les authentiques glaces de Salcedo" goes on the right. Set: Jean-Luc Jeunet | 8b | 22m | |||
3 |
Millénium
Set: Thierry Cienzo | 8a+ | 22m | |||
4 |
Vive la reine
Set: Fred Ripert | 8b | 22m | |||
5 |
Le moment convulsif
Set: Jean-Luc Jeunet | 8c | 22m | |||
6 |
Le Moteur
Set: Fred Ripert | 8a+ | ||||
7 |
Neandertag
Set: Fred Ripert | 7c | ||||
8 |
Eclipse d'éthique
Set: Fred Ripert | 7b+ | 20m | |||
9 |
Les griffes du sentier
Set: Fred Ripert | 7c | 22m | |||
10 |
Debout sur le chou
Set: Fred Ripert | 6c+ | 22m | |||
11 |
Pixel de poulet
Set: Fred Ripert | 7a | 22m | |||
12 |
Sucre et piment
Set: Fred Ripert | 7a+ | 22m | |||
13 |
La théorie des cordes
Set: Gérard Merlin | 7a+ | 22m | |||
14 |
www.réglettes.com
Grade 6c or 7a+ depending on the pathing at the end of the route ; 6c on the left and 7a+ on the right. Set: Gérard Merlin | 6c | 22m | |||
15 |
Première secousse
Set: Gérard Merlin & Fred Ripert | 6c+ | 22m | |||
16 |
Maman somnambule
Set: Gérard Merlin & Fred Ripert | 6a+ | 22m | |||
17 |
La cible du penant
Set: Gérard Merlin | 6a | 22m | |||
18 |
Violet ou noir
Grade 6c or 6c+ depending on the pathing at the middle of the route ; 6c+ straight and 6c by the right. Set: Gérard Merlin | 6c+ | 20m | |||
19 |
Colo-tilde
Set: Gérard Merlin | 6c | 20m | |||
20 |
Voyage de Chihiro
Set: Gérard Merlin | 6c+ | 22m | |||
21 |
Petits pédoux pour Rémy
Set: Gérard Merlin | 6c+ | 22m | |||
22 |
La gabelou
Set: Gérard Merlin | 6b+ | 22m | |||
23 |
Princesse Mono-noké
Set: Gérard Merlin | 6b | 22m | |||
24 |
Maxi-sud
Set: Gérard Merlin | 6b+ | 20m | |||
25 |
Clovis
Set: Gérard Merlin | 6b | 22m | |||
26 |
Yoan
Set: Gérard Merlin | 6a+ | 22m | |||
27 |
Tristan
Set: Gérard Merlin | 6b | 22m |
1.2.6. Coliséum 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 43.336755, 5.556366
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Spirale
Set: Thierry Cienzo | 7c | 15m | |||
2 |
Cinq bonbonnes à la une
Set: Thierry Cienzo | 6c+ | 10m | |||
3 |
Rail de colonne classique
Same anchor (1st pitch) as "Cinq bonbonnes à la une". Grade to be confirmed for the 2nd pitch. Set: Thierry Cienzo | 8a+ | 15m, 2 | |||
4 |
Le rite de l'homme oiseau
Set: Thierry Cienzo | 7b+ | 15m | |||
5 |
Coliseum
Set: Thierry Cienzo | 8a | 15m | |||
6 |
Cool frénésie
Set: Thierry Cienzo | 7a+ | 12m |
1.2.7. Abri bus 0 routes in Sector
1.3. Le vallon du Marseillais 49 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.357641, 5.583940
1.3.1. Méduse 29 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.358090, 5.583888
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Peau de banane
Set: Pascal Rainette | 6b+ | 12m | |||
2 |
?
Set: Pascal Rainette | 7c | 12m | |||
3 |
??
Set: Pascal Rainette | 7a | 12m | |||
4 |
Morgane de toit
Set: Philippe Légier | 6b | 12m | |||
5 |
Respire
Set: Philippe Légier & H.M. Vincens | 5c | 35m | |||
6 |
Putain de bécane
Set: Philippe Légier & H.M. Vincens | 5c | 35m | |||
7 |
L'inversée satanique
Set: Philippe Légier & H.M. Vincens | 6c+ | 35m | |||
8 |
On the road again
Set: Philippe Légier | 5c | 40m | |||
9 | ??? | 6b | 35m | |||
10 |
Nom de Zeus
FA: S. André | 6a+ | 40m | |||
11 |
Gros sale
Set: S. André & Philippe Légier | 6a | 35m | |||
12 |
Xenaxis
Be careful up to the 3rd spit. Set: Philippe De Gaetano | 6b+ | 35m | |||
13 |
Philos
Set: S. André | 6a | 35m | |||
14 |
Choi
Be careful up to the 3rd spit. Set: Philippe De Gaetano | 5c | 35m | |||
15 | Méduse | 5b+ | 35m | |||
16 |
Passoire
Same anchor as "Méduse". | 5c | 35m | |||
17 |
Le spit de la discorde
Set: C. Barrin & Philippe Légier | 6b+ | 30m | |||
18 |
Monokinique
Quickly goes on right, joining "Just one kiss" then on the left to finish at the anchor of "Le spit de la discorde". Set: Paul Agnelli | 7a+ | 30m | |||
19 |
Just one kiss
After the slightly overhanging part goes on the left to finish at the anchor of "Le spit de la discorde". Maint: Philippe Légier Set: Philippe Légier | 7a | 30m | |||
20 |
La bibine de Caroline
Set: Philippe Légier | 6c | 25m | |||
21 |
Pelforth
Set: H.M. Vincens | 6b | 25m | |||
22 |
Horreur boréale
Same start as "Pelforth" then goes right to finish at the anchor of "Le grand mégalo". Set: Philippe Légier & Pascal Rainette | 6c | 25m | |||
23 |
Le grand mégalo
Set: Pascal Rainette | 6c | 25m | |||
24 |
????
Precise grade unknown. | 6 | ||||
25 |
Galéjade
Set: Paul Agnelli | 7a | 20m | |||
26 |
La marseillaise
Set: Pascal Rainette Maint: Philippe Légier, 2005 | 7b+ | 20m | |||
27 | ????? | 7a+ | 20m | |||
28 |
Triturations minérales
Same start as "?????", goes straight up. Set: Pascal Rainette Maint: Philippe Légier, 2005 | 7a | 20m | |||
29 |
L'ancienne
Warning Fixed Gear: No anchor | 5c | 40m |
1.3.2. Orage d'été 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.357252, 5.583986
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Cunu
Warning Fixed Gear: No anchor Set: J. Pourchier | 5c | 35m | |||
2 |
Marche à l'ombre
Set: Philippe Légier | 6a+ | 30m | |||
3 |
Gros con bière
Set: Philippe Légier | 6a+ | 30m | |||
4 |
La porcherie
Set: J. Pourchier | 6a | 30m | |||
5 |
13 bd aiglin
Set: Philippe Légier Maint: Philippe Légier, 2005 | 6c | 30m | |||
6 |
The drowning man
Set: Philippe Légier Maint: Philippe Légier, 2005 | 6c | 30m | |||
7 |
Coup de sud
Set: Christophe Kern | 7c+ | 30m | |||
8 |
?
Same anchor as "Coup de sud". Set: Christophe Kern | 7b+ | ||||
9 |
Orage d'été
Set: Paul Agnelli | 7c | 30m | |||
10 |
Le chant du corbeau
Start in "??" and goes on right to the anchor of "Orage d'été". Set: Paul Agnelli | 7a | 30m | |||
11 |
??
Precise grade unknown. | 7 | 35m | |||
12 |
Coup de pied à la lune
Goes on the left up to the anchor of "??". Set: Philippe Légier | 6b+ | 35m | |||
13 |
Mythe errant 2e
Set: H.M. Vincens | 7a | 30m | |||
14 |
La piste oubliée
Set: H.M. Vincens Maint: Philippe Légier, 2005 | 6b+ | 30m | |||
15 |
???
Set: Paul Agnelli | 6c+ | 30m | |||
16 |
????
Precise grade unknown. | 6 | 25m | |||
17 |
A strange day
Same anchor as "????". Set: Philippe Légier | 6c+ | ||||
18 |
?????
Precise grade unknown. | 6 | ||||
19 |
??????
Set: Philippe Légier | 6c+ | 30m | |||
20 |
Ciao Fabrice
Same anchor as "??????". Set: Philippe Légier & G. Ory | 6b | 30m |