Ascents in Germany by Kai

First ascent in the Pfalz. Thanks to the good protection. Did favor this over the classic chimney because I've had just a set of nuts with me.

Dogged because of rain.

One push to the the belay of 'Zahnwurzelwändli'

Way to hot and I was to scared to take a run-out after the forth bolt (ring-hanger). Retreated at slab crux I think. Didn't try it again because of the temperatures and amount of climbing parties.

Quite a nice route at a crack. Of course polished but not too bad.

Two attempts to start into the route.

Direct start is way harder than 6+. Cheating to the left makes it way easier.

Didn't find the solution to the technical part.

Great route that rewards you if you make it through the lower choss. Great but loose overhang section that is followed by quite technical and reachy section. To the anchor with lovely jugs.

Way to hard for me. First crux already between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Fell off several times because I'm just not able or I was to pumped to hold the pinch. Then there is a very loose part below the overhung. Great overhung but again to much for me. Aborted after I aided the overhung to retrieve the last quick-draw

#ropedsolo

In one push with 'Schwarze Mamba'.

In one push with 'Schwarze Mamba'.

Wow, almost failed because I messed up the feet. Left lots of power but did it.

Well, as the guide book says for the neighbour route: The lower part is very brittle. Up to the first overhang of the first pitch really nerve-wracking. I was glad that I wasn't in the lead.

To get over the overhang was a real challenge. For the feet potentially only breakage and for the hands nothing good. With the finger holes above the bolt (left hand) I was able to get up with a long pull. Then the rock quality became really good and the climbing better, but not necessarily easier.

From the belay I had a hard time to start into 'Niawata' because I needed a really long move to get further. I had to fiddle a bit, but I had to stand high on a good side hold for the right hand and turn in with momentum to the next good hold for the left hand. I also found the passage harder than 6. I don't know if I would have dared to do it in the lead.

At the second to last bolt it was over for today. Somehow it was really hard for me again and I got scared because the falls so far up were really hard. I don't know why, but I had forgotten that I had 2 bolts in a row. Anyway, after a few failed attempts I abseiled to avoid a fall, thinking I had no redundant bolt.

Too bad, the upper 2/3 are quite rewarding. Now I have to go through the choss again sometime.

No idea how this can be a 6-. Had no idea how to come through the chimney without A1.

Super Rissverschneidung die man selbst absichern "muss" Wenn man genügend große Friends/Cams hat, dann kann man das ganz entspannt angehen. Ich musste leider etwas sparen. Vielleicht besser so denn das platzieren der Sicherungen hat gefühlt ewig gedauert.

#falken-trilogie

Super route weiß gar nicht warum ich die noch nie geklettert bin.

Was soll ich sagen... Anstrengend wie es im Führer steht. Vor dem Henkel gefallen - wie doof. Aber so gut.

One fall at the last part of the Crack before crossing the Ameisenweg.

And another success. Took quite a while. Placed two nuts for my mind.

Nice climb. Quite demanding. Clipstick recommended.

Fieser Riss zum Umlenker. Geht schon gut, ist aber immer wieder etwas Überwindung dabei und/oder ein Angstkeil.

So pumped and afraid