Showing all 45 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 18th May 2024 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Honigfelsen | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Flug des Albatros - with Yury Mo | 3 | |||||
Coole Route
|
|||||||
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Klosterfels | |||||||
8 Easy | ★★★ Märchenprinz - with Klara R | 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I should have onsighted this one but I missed the spot just before the crux where I should have traversed a bit to the left and tried to go straight instead. Very nice climbing, well protected - only the first bolt is a bit high but the climbing up to there is easy.
|
|||||||
8- | ★★★ Flammende Herzen - with Klara R | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Very nice climbing on honeycomb structures
|
|||||||
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Nonnenfels | |||||||
8 ~8+ | ★★★ Talwand - with Klara R | ★★★ Classic | |||||
It was so hot in the full sun that I didn't want to try again.
|
|||||||
7- | ★★★ Jubiläumsriss - with Klara R | 35m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Could not find a spot to place a nut in the thinner part of the crack before running out of power. I should have just gone on to the wider part of the crack. Very nice route.
|
|||||||
Thu 8th Jun 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Bärenbrunner Pfaffenfels | |||||||
5+ 6 | ★ Nordschlucht - with Raimund | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice chimney. Probably easier than 6, but certainly a tricky one.
|
|||||||
8- 7+/8- | ★★ Luftikus - with Raimund | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tough one! I didn't climb the actual start, but started right into the second half from the last bolt of "Direkter Plattenweg". Powerful overhang which I attacked a little to the right of the ring to do a big rockover on the left foot above the bolt. Then a few meters of nothingness in a terribly shallow dihedral (if you can even call it that). Sketchy moves first lead a little to the left (to gain a mediocre crimp), then again to the right. Foot even popped off at one point and I have no Idea how I stuck to the wall.
|
|||||||
5+ | ★ Direkter Plattenweg - with Raimund | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Not sure what's "direct" about the line, but I guess the original traversed in from even further right via "Talkante". Relatively straightforward climbing, but an interesting path along the weaknesses of the rock. From the bolt below the overhang, you originally walk over the ledge to "Nordschlucht". I was told the finish up top from there was 6-. Which I doubted already when looking at it, but still I tried. Turned out to be "Luftikus".
|
|||||||
6- | ★ Talkante - with Raimund | 30m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
A nice stroll after I've tried bouldering the direct start. A bit chossy like most routes here, but still worthwhile, a good line and sensibly protected.
|
|||||||
7 | Lustikus - with Raimund | 6m, 2 | |||||
No chance on this one. Two slanting fingertip sloper crimps and a long move to a bad sloper with a slight pocket. Tried a few things, found an option with a fragile structure, but it broke (sorry). I saw others climb it later that day, looked much harder than what the grade suggests (but also tricky).
|
|||||||
6+ | ★ Direkte Brüchige Wand - with Raimund | 30m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Not as brittle as the name might suggest … except maybe the upper third. Quite long and the protection is sensible. Interesting section over the little overhang. A decent climb as long as it's clean.
|
|||||||
6+ | ★ Direkte Pfaffenwand - with Raimund | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
The better option actually. Especially now that it has been cleaned quite a bit. Climbed it #barefoot because my feet already hurt quite a bit, but actually shoes would have helped in the crux over the bulge, which only added to the pain. Nice easy dihedral to the top (which actually would have also been the finish of the original "Pfaffenwand" it seems).
|
|||||||
6 | Pfaffenschlucht - with Raimund | 15m, 1 | Average | ||||
Striking line, but only mediocre climbing. Brittle, overhanging crack dihedral. There's an anchor halfway up around the corner on the left, although I'm not sure why. The bolt is also quite useless, two yellow cams are the much better option.
|
|||||||
6+ | Pfaffenwand - with Raimund | 25m | Don't Bother | ||||
Took a wrong turn because the description in the guidebook was obviously incorrect. Climbed on for a few meters before I realised it; too late to back off at that point, so I struggled my way up the utter choss. Half a first ascent, but I wouldn't recommend any repeats.
|
|||||||
Thu 8th Jun 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Klosterfels | |||||||
6+ | ★ Hungerweg - with Raimund | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awesome long route through the central part of the wall. The toughest moves are before the first ring, there's a good fit for a yellow cam, but it's quite low, maybe place something on the right and extend. Speaking of extending bolts: I didn't quite do that enough in the upper part, didn't have enough slings on me, so my attempt to climb it in one go was hindered quite a bit by rope drag, although I eventually succeeded.
|
|||||||
6+ | Moschtkopp - with Raimund | 35m, 5 | Average | ||||
The upper part is good (apparently there's a newer ring up there, too, which helps a lot) but you have to get past the rooflet in the middle, which is a bit of a showstopper after the already demanding slab dihedral in the beginning. The bolt at the rooflet doesn't inspire a lot of confidence and neither does the rock quality in that part of the wall. Also, after you've heaved your body over the lip, you still have to do a few sketchy moves with mediocre protection (placed a green cam) before you reach the ledge.
|
|||||||
Wed 31st May 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Klosterfels | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Klosterwand - with Ivan | 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Today too hot and slippery. Direkter Einstieg und Ausstieg im Vorstieg,OS.
|
|||||||
Fri 6th May 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Nonnenfels | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Jubiläumsriss | 35m, 6 | |||||
Länger angeschaut. Großartige Route, aber immernoch sehr weit weg...
|
|||||||
Sun 23rd May 2021 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Schindharder Kuckucksfelsen | |||||||
8- | ★★★ Man spricht Teutsch | 28m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Im zweiten Jahr endlich geschafft. Einfach ein großes Vergnügen. Kleingriffige Crux im unteren Teil endet in einer nicht enden wollenden Henkel Ei!
|
|||||||
7 | ★★★ Wintermärchen | 30m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Homogenster 7er Spaß.
|
|||||||
8- | ★★ Sommermärchen - with Moxi | 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Zumindest mit meiner Beta sehr hart für 8-. Wenn man weiß wie aber ganz cool. Wie immer etwas scary zum ersten und dritten Ring, oben raus wird's durch einen mittleren Cam entspannter.
|
|||||||
7 | ★★★ Wintermärchen - with Moxi | 30m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Friend zum ersten Ring wichtig! Zwischendrin dann auch noch einer. Bis auf den matschigen, Kiesel Anfang sehr schön. Wenn's überhängend wird kommen Henkel
|
|||||||
8- | ★★★ Man spricht Teutsch - with Moxi | 28m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sehr coole Tour in der man nichts legen muss zum ersten Ring muss man wie immer trotzdem aufpassen. Ab dem vierten Ring ist's vorbei.
|
|||||||
7+ | ★★ Intermezzo - with Moxi | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Noch eine Route in der man kein Material legen muss aber auch hier ist's einfach aber gefährlich zum ersten Ring (zum zweiten auch etwas unangenehm). Dann hat man alles, sloprig technisch, pumpig überhängend und Aufleger mit Mantler zum top.
|
|||||||
Sat 13th Jun 2020 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Schindharder Kuckucksfelsen | |||||||
8- | ★★★ Man spricht Teutsch - with Sina | 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Kleingriffige Kiesel Schlüsselstelle vor dem Bauch. Oben steil und ausdauernd aber leichter. Beinahe flash geklettert.
|
|||||||
7 | ★★★ Wintermärchen - with Franz | 30m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Homogene Wandkletterei eigentlich vom Boden bis zum Umlenker. Eine steile Stelle in der Mitte macht die Route noch etwas spannender. Spitzenklasse. Beste Tour des Pfalz-Urlaubs.
|
|||||||
7+ | ★★ Intermezzo - with Sina | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Alles drin, coole Tour.
|
|||||||
7- | ★★ Zwockel - with Franz | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Steile Henkelwaben, richtig cool!
|
|||||||
Mon 16th Mar 2020 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Klosterfels | |||||||
6+ |
Moschtkopp
1
6+
2
| 35m, 5 | Average | ||||
bis Ring im Dach
|
|||||||
Sat 5th Jul 2014 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Nonnenfels | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Jubiläumsriss - with Thomas | 35m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Oposition is the key!
|
|||||||
Mon 21st Apr 2014 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Schindharder Kuckucksfelsen | |||||||
8 8+ | ★★ Rotes Auge | 28m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
7a/+. kalte Finger. Macht die Griffe sauber!
|
|||||||
Sun 1st Sep 2013 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Nonnenfels | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Jubiläumsriss | 35m, 6 | |||||
Awesome route. Can be really mental if you have to protect the climb with friends.
|
|||||||
Sat 31st Aug 2013 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Pferchfeldfels | |||||||
8- | ★★ Yosar | ||||||
Nice slight overhanging route. Attention, the two first rings are rusted.
|
|||||||
Sun 16th Jun 2013 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Honigfelsen | |||||||
8 | ★★ Ulis Ochsenfahrt | ★ Good | |||||
Not as good as I had hoped. Stupid first bolt, bouldery crux and easy climbing to the top. Albatros and Sick Boy are a lot nicer.
|
|||||||
Sun 28th Aug 2011 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Pferchfeldfels Südwand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Lügendetektor | ★★ Very Good | |||||
2 hard (for me) boulders followed by superb wallclimbing. #hard
|
|||||||
Thu 4th Aug 2011 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Honigfelsen | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Flug des Albatros | 3 | ★ Good | ||||
With direct finish following the edge.
|
|||||||
Fri 20th Aug 2010 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Klosterfels | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Klosterwand | 9 | |||||
via "Direkter Einstieg" and "Direkter Ausstieg"
|
|||||||
Fri 20th Aug 2010 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Nonnenfels | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Jubiläumsriss | 35m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Some mid-sized Rocks are useful to protect the non-trivial crux
|
|||||||
Fri 20th Aug 2010 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Honigfelsen | |||||||
6+ | Blitzkante | 2 | Average | ||||
#3 Friend comes in handy to protect the strange topout move
|
|||||||
6- | Normalweg | 3 | Average | ||||
exciting. Second pitch seemed to have been climbed rarely.
|
|||||||
Thu 19th Aug 2010 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Nonnenfels | |||||||
6 | ★ Direkter Trichterweg | 3 | Average | ||||
First pitch easy and well-protected; second with powerful moves and harder to protect
|
|||||||
Tue 16th Jun 2009 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Schindharder Kuckucksfelsen | |||||||
8- | ★★★ Man spricht Teutsch | 28m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 2nd Nov 2007 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Sternfelsen | |||||||
6+ | ★ Rentnerreibung | ★ Good | |||||
Tricky but very good.
|
|||||||
Sat 20th Apr 2002 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Sternfelsen | |||||||
4+ | ★★★ Theoweg | ★★ Very Good | |||||
First lead on Pfalz sandstone
|
|||||||
1976 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Bärenbrunner Tal Nonnenfels | |||||||
7- | FA ★★★ Jubiläumsriss | 35m, 6 | |||||
FFA.
|
Showing all 45 ascents.