Ascents in Frankenjura as Hang dog

Musste mich im Quergang nach dem genialen Kamin einmal ins Seil setzen.

Actually quite a fun route. The crux awaits at the very end, but you can put a decent amount of gear in before you climb up and right over the bulge. Had no idea how to climb this section in my first attempt, so I bailed to the right into "Erdenkäuferriss" and had a look from above.

Awesome alpine adventure™ with Christoph Rauch! Enjoyed it a lot, thanks!

Had to rest in the part where the good holds were overgrown, although Christoph already cleaned it (also I didn't want to throw more dirt on the climbers below us ).

Endurance, Endurance

After around 15m of tricky, exhausting crack climbing with lots of deep hand jamming, I got on the ledge and was almost shocked by the roof that presented itself over my head, which I underestimated from the ground. In this crux, to get into the second crack on the roof, I took two underclings, made a big kick with my left foot to a bomber foot hold, did a slightly drop knee, then quickly grabbed the crimps in the crack and witched myself up, while ignoring the mediocre, shallow two finger pocket on the right. Hard and rewarding.

Epic crack line! Hard crack climbing moves from the beginning to the end. The crux is to get into the second crack at the top. I did hand and fist jamming, shoulder and even used my knee at one point of the route.

Unnötig schlecht abgesichert. Vor dem ersten Haken kam man einen Friend setzen.

Awkward start getting over the first bolt. Got quite exhausted and nervous in the chimney. Needed to rest after that, although the rest was totally doable (although quite dirty).

I'm proud to have made it to the top. The slings before the anchor are in very bad shape. I used a blue dragon cam after the third bolt and a yellow one below the slings. Had to rest in both of them; I could blame it on the crack being dirty and full of cobwebs, but I guess I just wasn't ready for it. Should have worn crack gloves or at least tape, couldn't stick the jams well enough; it could also be that one or the other foothold in the right wall broke off, so now you don't have any other option than to climb it as a full-on hand crack. I'll be back.

Lots of chossy rock in the first half.. The second half is really nice to climb. Got lost on the last two meters to the anchor and had to rest.

curx before the anchors, especially when you stay left of the arete

a stopper can be placed below the bulge

The crux is at the crack just beneath the bolt. Hard for the grade if you aren't a hand jamming expert.

Had to do the beginning of the route to the left until the first plateau as I couldn't fit through the narrow openings of the actual start of the route.