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Showing all 15 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Fri 10th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right
6+ Philosophenweg - with Harald Mixed trad 28m, 4 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Quite the adventure, even more so (of course) compared to "Frostfinger" due to the traverse over the ridiculous flake (no idea how that thing is attached to the wall). I had not forgotten how delicate and bold the rest of the route was, but even though I knew what was coming, I hesitated a little in the runout to the last bolt.

 
6 Bayernwand - with Harald Mixed trad 25m, 4 Good
Christoph Rauch
Traverses left at the second bolt, which turns out to be the crux. Afterwards it gets easier, but you have to add some protection, the last bolt is a little awkward to get to. The top is nice and easy in good rock.

 
5+ Schwartenriss - with Harald Mixed trad 23m, 1 Good
Christoph Rauch
Cool logical line. The eponymous flake is juggy on the right, but extremely dusty in the crack on the left, which spiced up even more the fact that there's no fixed protection in the lower part of the route. The lonely bolt in the dihedral before the finish is still sensible, though.

 
Sun 16th Aug 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right
7- Steinbeißer - with Daniel Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Nice, chalk-free, vertical climbing on small pockets. The bolts aren't as spaced as it first seems, there's one hidden in the break. Runout after the third bolt, but it's much easier there. No anchor, but make sure to climb the last few meters, it's worth it!

 
6+ Hansdampf - with Bovist Sport 15m, 4 Classic
Christoph Rauch
Brilliant dihedral climbing. Slightly overhanging with lots of bridging and stemming. A blue cam shortens the distance to the last bolt before the finish. No anchor (but a good belay tree).

 
7- Steinbeißer - with Christoph Rauch Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
monolith
With one rest around the third bolt, because the wrong holds I had grabbed, lead to a dead end, but found a good hold right next to them then. Nice last two meters, over the bulge on two good holds, that you first have to find while still standing under the bulge.

 
7- Steinbeißer - with Christoph Rauch Sport 15m, 4 Very Good
Daniel
To the first bolt is the hardest part, having the draw in helped a lot here.

 
Tue 21st Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right
7+ Frostfinger - with Alex Sport 20m, 5 Good
Christoph Rauch
Hardly ever climbed, probably due to the exclamation mark in the guide book, so I had to dust off the crimps while climbing. Short, but difficult passage over three bolts to the traverse of "Philosophenweg", continuing on this route to the top. This second part is actually great. Easy traverse and then nice, unusual wall climbing without any pockets.

 
7- Sepplriss - with Alex Sport 18m, 4 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Great crack line. Wonderful combination of jams, bridging and a bit of wall climbing. Crux is the finish. Use the bolt with the carabiners to lower, there's nothing at the top.

 
7- Schlendrian - with Alex Sport 18m, 5 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Slightly nonsensical start with a technical crux around the arête (you can start around the corner and leave this harder bit out, but then it's probably only around 6+). The rest is beautiful wall climbing in slightly slabby terrain along small pockets. The second bolt after swinging around the arête is quite high, careful there. There's an anchor quite far on the right.

 
Sat 21st Apr 2018 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right
8- 7+ Volle Lotte - with Daniel Sport 18m, 5 Average
Christoph Rauch
Phew … boulder start into an overhang with subpar rock quality to a high first bolt, followed by an incredibly hard section over a bulge. I tried lots of different ways, but the only successful one was definitely harder than 7+. No idea how else to do it.

 
8- 7+ Volle Lotte - with Jenny Sport 18m, 5 Average
Christoph Rauch
First bolt pre-clipped. The upper part is actually relatively nice, but there's no anchor at the very top, so lower off the last (fifth) bolt.

 
Sun 30th Aug 2015 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right
6 Rentnersteig - with Thomas Krodel Sport 2
rangerjacke
Sun 15th May 1988 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Eibenwände Right
7- Schlendrian Sport 18m, 5
Peter Betz
7- Steinbeißer (Steinbeisser) Sport 15m, 4
Peter Betz

Showing all 15 ascents.

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