Ascents in Glatzenstein

The last time I was here, I was a bit overwhelmed by the exposure and the protection, but I seem to have gained more experience as a climber which will make my experience today much sweeter to remember. Great wall climbing with interesting moves on small crimps and some pockets.

A bit wet in the beginning. I think that this part is the crux even with dry rock. Grounder potential, too, a good belayer is key. The top part over the pillar is nice, with lots of air beneath your feet, but the rock quality is quite bad. Make sure no one's below the route while you climb it.

Wonderful, long route, the direct start is the hardest part. Elegant climbing on good flakes, crux of the upper part is the little diagonal bulge. #warmup

Bold climbing with a big runout on the slab before the final roof. One of the last obvious footholds below the bolt at the end of the runout is split and might come off, take care! Also some loose blocks below the roof, but the necessary holds are bomber.

Easy chimney with bad protection in the beginning, then a bit creepy traverse followed by a hand crack. Challenging climbing.

Incredible feat for 1912. I can imagine they used some wooden chocks back in the day? Would be interesting to know how they climbed this. It's basically a big round flake in the back of a chimney, with fist sized to offwidth cracks on both sides. The first few meters are fine, but then the chimney gets narrower and the footholds worse (at around 10 meters off the ground). Tried a few things to get past that narrow bit but failed to climb it safely, and to make matters worse, got my foot stuck in the right crack. I had to find a no-hand position (still free solo!) to get my foot back out. I already wanted to give up and start downclimbing, when I realised there was a rusty old ring (which looked fine, though) just a meter above me. The biggest cam I had was a blue one, which I then optimistically placed in the narrowest section of crack I could find, and then carefully climbed on, reached the ring, and started to breathe again. Recovered the cam for later after clipping the ring and placed a sling around the only chockstones I could find a few inches higher. From there, the climbing first gets a bit easier, and you can place slightly smaller cams (blue, yellow) safely, but the finish is still challenging regardless!

Impressive line. The longest chimney in the Frankenjura and quite the adventure. Did it in two pitches as described in the old Bühler guidebook (doesn't really make sense to climb it in one go, anyway), bringing up Bovist around half-way up on the ledge with the trees. The scariest part is in pitch two, from the huge chockstone towards the only bolt in the upper section (according to Bühler, instead of climbing to this bolt, it's also possible to bail out and exit the chimney towards the back of the crag), where you need to climb three or four meters of wide chimney. The finish is funny, squeeze through the narrow channel and top out with an amazing view.

Předpokládám že jsem v půlce zabloudil moc doleva a v rozchrastanym vršku málem zahynul... Mělo by to jít nějak středem ale to mi moc nepřislo... možna to zapadalo šutrama a už to nejde? Každopádně si to počítám, za to že jsem málem zahynul )

Crux ausgekniffen...

Umlenker sitzt ungünstig, lieber über den Schlaghaken zum Gipfel-UH der Nachbartour.