Ascents in Großer Mönch

Terrible route! Basically as Christoph Rauch said earlier, completely strange route going all over the place and crossing many lines. I „retreated“ when I was on the east face, because the drag-resistance of the rope was waaaay to high. Maybe, given that it is a historical route, it’s was once okay, but for modern sports climbing I can definitely NOT recommend this route…

Hard to arrange for an ascent in one pitch. You basically have to leave out the second bolt of "Talseite" (which was added later, anyway … leading to more vegetation on the path of least resistance, but that's another story) and extend the bolt on the ledge, then extend the next bolt of "Rosenkranz", leave out the first bolt of the actual route around the corner, and, again, extend the next bolt. From there it's straight up along the arête, probably hardly ever climbed, had to partially dig out the nice old ring bolt further up. Probably better to climb the direct variant nowadays.

The start was still a bit moist, but manageable. After the traverse, I went up a bit further left than last time, which also felt good, although you miss out on the peg on the right; placed a nut instead. Love the juggy runout. #jahreserste2022

tough crimpy faceclimb, easy runout at the top

tricky, crimpy traverse, easy runout at the top

Forced line between the better "Conni und Uli" and the brilliant "Talseite". Hard to stick to the narrow corridor, and then it's quite hard with lots of small crimps and pockets.

Quite good, actually. Relatively many bolts, but hardware store quality. The anchor sits far in the back, it's best if you abseil (or walk down). Ironically, there's a book case on top despite it not being a tower. Put in a new book.

A fine classic. The lower part is now well-protected due to the bolts of the 7- routes. Cool middle part with interesting moves and structures for the grade. Nice juggy topout with lots of possibilities to place slings and nuts. #barefoot ascent to give my feet a pause from climbing shoes.

Another classic. Unfortunately, the start is a bit chossy, otherwise it's perfect rock and superb climbing. Crux is the overhang right at the second bolt, which seems unsurmountable at first, but once you've found the holds it's a nice boulder. Great arête at the top.

Nice moves out of the chimney. The upper part is easy and enjoyable, but nothing special compared to other routes here.

I liked the climbing, but can't really give the route a quality rating before I went there again to clean the upper part from vegetation. After the third bolt, you can climb one more meter before all the holds are filled with dirt and grass. I climbed diagonally to the right to exit like "Bergseite" instead. Small pockets with a big runout in the end (if the jugs on the left are as big as for "Bergseite", it shouldn't be a problem, though).

Only a few meters worth of real climbing, but those are very good. Topping out to the summit on easy jugs is a bonus.