Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
7- | Abkürzer | Average | |||||
7 | ★★ Muskelmacher | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
6+ Hard | ★★ Brüchig & Genehmigt | ★ Good | |||||
5+ | ★★ Langer Riss | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6 ~6 | ★ Muffige Schuppe | ★ Good | |||||
ein quer liegender Keil für die Einstiegsmeter und zwei perfekte Keile in der linken Rissspur entschärfen die Route. Die Piazschuppe nicht überstrapazieren, besser etwas rechts umgehen. Anschließende schöne Querung und schöne Abschlussplatte runden die Route ab. Leichter als die 6+ links davon.
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5 | ★★ Feierabendweg | ★ Good | |||||
gut gesichert auf den Gipfel. Umlenken am besten über den Vagabundenpfeiler
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Thu 28th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
5 | ★★ Feierabendweg | ★★★ Classic | |||||
5+ | ★ Plattensprint | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★★ Dächlesweg | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
7- | ★★ General Bööt | ||||||
7- | ★ Wildpflaume | 15m | |||||
5+ | ★★ Hans Scharrer Gedenkweg | 15m, 3 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Dächlesweg | 15m | |||||
6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler | 15m, 5 | |||||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler - with Uhli | 15m, 5 | |||||
7- | Abplatzer - with Uhli | ||||||
6- | Albertinaweg - with Heike | 15m, 2 | |||||
7- | ★ Wildpflaume - with Martin Schubert | 15m | |||||
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Langer Riss - with Revo | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Just what it says on the label. Good placements in the lower part. A bit brittle towards the top.
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3 | ★★ Linker Wachtkamin | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great easy chimney without any unpleasant surprises.
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2 | ★ Rechter Wachtkamin | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Another easy chimney, apparently it's a bit easier when passing behind the chock at the top. I passed in front, still not hard but a bit more exposed.
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4 | Linker Fichtenriss | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice little crack climb.
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3 | Schiefer Kamin | 12m | Average | ||||
Easy, short and quite green. Not a highlight.
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5+ | ★ Wachtverschneidung - with Revo | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
The ivy slowly takes over this route. Should be climbed more often. I guess the rather unusual line puts off most people. Starts on the left with "Schiefer Kamin" or along the crack to the right of it, up to a ring. Then a big step to the right into the dihedral and up it to an anchor (or past the anchor to the ledge, there's another bolt there).
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3 | ★ Quergang | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
The easy version of "Rissüberhang", avoiding the "Überhang" bit and instead going to the easier crack dihedral on the left.
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4+ | ★★ Rissüberhang | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice climb! Definitely quite polished, but it's not problematic if you've got crack skills. Quite steep section for the grade, too.
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Thu 18th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
5 | ★ Geheimweg - with Werner Diepolder, Katja Wagner | ★ Good | |||||
6- | ★ Westverschneidung - with Werner Diepolder, Katja Wagner | ★ Good | |||||
6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler - with Werner Diepolder, Katja Wagner | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
4 ~5+ | ★ Ostermarsch - with Werner Diepolder, Katja Wagner | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6 | ★★ Steinmetz Gedenkweg - Direkteinstieg - with Werner Diepolder | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Mon 10th Oct 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
6- | ★ Westverschneidung | ||||||
Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler | 15m, 5 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Dächlesweg | 15m | |||||
7- | ★ Wildpflaume | 15m | |||||
5 | ★ Geheimweg | ||||||
Sun 22nd May 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
7- | Abkürzer - with Tom Bösl | ★ Good | |||||
6 | ★★ Steinmetz Gedenkweg - Direkteinstieg - with Tom Bösl | ★★ Very Good | |||||
7 | ★★ Muskelmacher - with Tom Bösl | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- | ★ Wildpflaume - with Tom Bösl | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler - with Tom Bösl | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★★ Hans Scharrer Gedenkweg - with Tom Bösl | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★★ Dächlesweg - with Tom Bösl | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 17th Mar 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
5+ | ★ Plattensprint | 15m, 3 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Dächlesweg | 15m | |||||
6+ | ★★ Brüchig & Genehmigt | ||||||
4 | ★ Ostermarsch | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 3rd Jun 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler - with Kathrin | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 24th May 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler | 15m, 5 | |||||
7- | Steinmetz Gedenkweg | ||||||
7 | ★★ Muskelmacher | 14m | |||||
7- | ★ Wildpflaume | 15m | |||||
Fri 11th Sep 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
7 7- | ★★ General Bööt | ★★ Very Good | |||||
7- | ★ Wildpflaume | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
5+ | ★★ Dächlesweg | 15m | |||||
5+ | ★★ Hans Scharrer Gedenkweg | 15m, 3 | |||||
6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 20th Oct 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
7- | ★ Wildpflaume - with Teresa | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
A bit chossy to the first bolt, but works out with a little care. Then a little bulge with hard to find holds, followed by a nice juggy middle section. The upper part was really hard in a direct line from the last bolt to the anchor, via a greasy sloper pinch … probably sensible to go a bit to the right.
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6- | Albertinaweg - with Teresa | 15m, 2 | Average | ||||
The sketchiest route I've done today. Not a bad route, but a little vegetated and wet today. Only found a mediocre tricam placement before the big ledge. Good cam and nuts before the final exit crack, which wasn't easy to negotiate.
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6 | ★★ Bergzigeunerweg - with Teresa | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Classic line, one of the longest climbs here. Nice traverse (extend your draws!) to the niche below the arête and delicate wall climbing up to the highest point.
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7 | ★★ Muskelmacher - with Teresa | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice jugfest. Felt easier than "Wildpflaume" further right.
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5+ | ★ Plattensprint - with Teresa | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting slab, perfectly protectable using nuts only.
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4 | ★ Ostermarsch - with Teresa | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Peculiar, thin arête-like pillar. Nice climb, but too short. At the top, you can go either behind the big chock or in front of it; the second option is the more modern one, the first option is easier and feels safer.
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6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler - with Teresa | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A full set of cams and one or two nuts is all you need here. Bolts totally optional. Fantastic rock structures, fluid climbing and a nice hand crack before the end. Bonus: the pillar almost feels like a real summit.
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5+ | ★★ Dächlesweg - with Teresa | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite steep for the grade, nice little rooflets. A few cams and nuts suffice.
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5+ | ★★ Hans Scharrer Gedenkweg - with Teresa | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A little less steep than "Dächlesweg", but not less demanding. The protection: a thin rock tunnel is followed by a thicker rock tunnel, then nuts and (tri)cams.
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5+ | ★ Plattensprint - with Christoph Rauch | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
4 | ★ Ostermarsch - with monolith | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler - with monolith | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★★ Hans Scharrer Gedenkweg - with monolith | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
5+ | ★★ Hans Scharrer Gedenkweg - with Bovist | 15m, 3 | |||||
5+ | ★ Plattensprint - with Bovist | 15m, 3 | Average | ||||
6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler - with Bovist | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
4 | ★ Ostermarsch - with Bovist | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
5+ | ★★ Dächlesweg - with Ellen | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
5+ | ★★ Hans Scharrer Gedenkweg - with Ellen | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- | ★ Wildpflaume - with Ellen | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7 | ★★ Muskelmacher - with Ellen | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5+ | ★ Plattensprint - with Ellen | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Used some additional protection put in by Christoph Rauch.
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6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler - with Ellen | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Used some additional protection put in by Christoph Rauch.
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Sun 9th Jun 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Dächlesweg | 15m | |||||
7- | ★ Wildpflaume | 15m | |||||
Sun 19th May 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
7 | ★★ Muskelmacher - with Dascha | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler - with Dascha | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5+ | ★★ Dächlesweg - with Dascha | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
7- | ★ Wildpflaume | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
fun rooflets
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6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
great position and twin crack crux
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5+ | ★ Muffige Schuppe | ★ Good | |||||
6+ | ★★ Brüchig & Genehmigt | ★★ Very Good | |||||
great corner and cracks. needs a clean
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Sat 18th Apr 2015 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
5+ | ★ Muffige Schuppe | ||||||
Sun 7th Sep 2014 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Langer Riss - with Lydia, Christian M. | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
6 | ★★ Vagabundenpfeiler | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5+ | ★★ Hans Scharrer Gedenkweg (Hans Scharrer Ged. Weg) - with Lydia, Christian M. | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
I placed an additional cam after the third bolt.
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4 | Linker Fichtenriss - with Lydia, Christian M. | 10m, 1 | Average | ||||
Thu 25th Apr 2013 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Dächlesweg (Dachlesweg) | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
3 wulste (dächer), drüber greifen
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5+ | ★★ Dächlesweg (Dachlesweg) | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
3 dächer zu überklettern, oben drauf gute griffe
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Thu 20th Aug 2009 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Kleine Wacht | |||||||
6 | ★★ Bergzigeunerweg | 20m | |||||
7- | Abkürzer | ||||||
7 | ★★ Muskelmacher | 14m |