Ascents in Rupertuswand

#First_ascent. Zünftiger Einstieg, schöne Züge.

#First_ascent

Traumtour. Leider 2 mal am Fingerloch rausgerutscht.

#First_ascent. Teilt sich den letzten Haken sowie die Umlenkung mit der Route rechts davon namens „Tief Roman“ Schwerer am Anfang sowie zum Ende hin. Nicht alles is Fest

#First_ascent. Teilt sich den letzten Haken sowie die Umlenkung mit der Route links davon namens „Chaac“. Unten schöne Verschneidung, oben raus kleingriffiger direkt über den vorletzten Haken.

Really beautiful! Crimpy and technical in the lower part, then a no hands rest on the ledge before an awesome pocket finish!

Nice, easier in lower part, gets smaller in the upper half

Balance to go to the left on small holds, then nice

Bouldery to go to the second draw, then nice on pockets

Eher auf der leichten seite der 9er für mich. Vermutlich hat sich am 8/9 Haken eine Rechtsschleife etabliert. Sehr streng direkt über die Haken könnte 9+ erzwungen werden.

Bottom section in structured rock with mostly weird but good pinches, top technical with interesting moves on flakes and pockets.

OS with draws in.

New route on the far left, good rock and nice moves in the middle part, with some sidepulls along the cracks.

Great wall climbing on pockets. Crux in the middle before the break. Devious little undercling: first you spot it from below but you can't really do anything with it. Then you move up so it's just in front of your belly. Remembered about it just in time, but then almost botched the onsight because I hastily slapped up to the break, hoping for a jug, but just hitting a sloper. Had to do a few insecure moves to get out of that conundrum. The upper part is easier, just stay a bit on the left and you're good.

Also great wall climbing, quite easy up to the last bulge, where the character suddenly changes. In the end I found a solution that traverses a tiny bit to the right to reach the undercling beneath the bulge, slap up to the right, reach far left to the undercling pinch, another slap up right to the good edge, right foot high and deadpoint onto the sloper crimp. Tough sequence, but at least I could do all the individual moves.

Good #warmup, if you stay a bit left of the bolts, it's fine for the grade and not too fingery, the upper part is nice.

Nasty crimp just above the first bolt, then seemingly you have to make a diversion to the right just to reach the second bolt somehow … apparently the to is easy, but didn't want to ruin my fingers on the brutal crimp, so I gave up.

Thought I had found a good solution for the way to the last bolt, but then I stood there, left hand on a sidepull far above my head, right hand down low in the good, round pocket, and I couldn't move. Bummer. Seems like there's a solution on the right, but that one eluded me as well, tried a few times and took good falls, but to no avail.