Ascents in Würgauer Wand by Christoph Rauch

Fell off in the lower crux, barndoored out when I already had the jug, so I reconsidered my beta and improved it. Same goes for the upper redpoint crux, for which I then used a less elegant but to me more manageable solution of not doing a crossover move but just pulling up and bumping to the jug on the left.

With everything laid out perfectly and using the few rest positions optimally, I finally made it! Fantastic route. Balancy, slippery crack at the start, then endurance on slopers. So many things can go wrong here, there aren't many routes I know that have that many apparent cruxes and are super sustained.

Alzheimer's flash. It's been a while since I've first tried this (and failed to even get to the top). Felt totally manageable today, especially after sending Metamorphose. Remarkable route, kudos to Tobias for onsighting it, that really pushed me. Laybacking on shallow pockets in a faint crack, then some gnarly moves past the fat dormouse, almost fell off there.

Put up the draws and tried to remember the beta. Seemed to work out relatively well, but I still felt a bit insecure in some places.

Quick attempt after it had already started to rain. I got through the lower crux somehow first try (but it still felt incredibly awkward and hard), including putting a wire in, but overlooked the sloper "jug" on the right at the end of that section and fell. The rest went through okay, much better than 4 years ago, but I suppose it will take some more attempts before I can send it.

Tried to stick to today's topic (slight variation): cracks. Had to retreat at the third bolt due to the sun setting (and my feet hurting). I had no clue how to get past this bolt. Sketchy layback moves only lead me to even more sketchy pockets in the "crack", without any footholds to gain height. Hard already up to this point, but I imagine it wouldn't have been over. Another one to come back to …