Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon 20th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Castellwand | ||||||
| 7- |
★ David
- with
thedark
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
| 7- |
Luisenwand
- with
thedark
| 15m | ||||
| 9- |
★★★ Lila Pause
- with
thedark
| 17m | ||||
| 7+ |
★ Deutsch-Österreicher Weg
- with
thedark
| 17m | ★ Good | |||
| 9- |
★★★ Lila Pause
- with
thedark
| 17m | ||||
| Sun 19th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Püttlachturm | ||||||
| 6+ |
Bergseite
- with
Alex
| 10m | ||||
|
#jahreserste2024
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| Sun 19th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Bleisteinwand | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Zirkel
- with
Alex
| 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 6+ |
★★ Ode an die Gelbwurst
- with
Alex
| 7 | ||||
| 8- |
★ Doppelkinn
- with
Alex
| 8 | ★ Good | |||
| 7- |
Der Kuckuck und der Esel
- with
Alex
| 9 | ||||
| Tue 14th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Gambrinus | ||||||
| 4 |
Fastendrunkkante
| 10m | ||||
| Sat 4th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände | ||||||
| 8 |
Frankie Goes to Frankenjura
- with
thedark
| 20m | ||||
| 8 |
★★ Kalauer
- with
thedark
| 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 3rd May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Walter Schnell Gedenkwand | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Ramazotti Express
- with
Johannes
| 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 3rd May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Aschenbrennerwand | ||||||
| 8- |
★★ Aschenbrenner Gedenkweg
- with
Johannes
| 35m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 7+ |
★★ Schlemmerriss
- with
Markus Benning
| 35m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 7+ |
★★ Gemeinschaftsweg
- with
Harald
| 40m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Wed 1st May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Marientaler Wand Lower Sector | ||||||
| 7+ |
★★ Katze Sudan
- with
KP
| 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
★ Dickbein
- with
KP
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
★★★ Saubere-Arbeit
- with
KP
| 16m | ||||
| Wed 1st May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Marientaler Wand Obere Wand | ||||||
| 8+ ~8 |
★★★ Hängt a weng über
- with
KP
| 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| 7- |
★★ Melodie und Rhythmus
- with
KP
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
| 6 |
★★ Geisterbahn
- with
KP
| 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Schnaittach Enzenstein | ||||||
| 7+ |
Direkte Seierroute
- with
mb
| 9m | ★ Good | |||
| 6 |
Kurze Wand
- with
mb
| 7m, 3 | ||||
| 2 |
Alter Weg
| 7m | ||||
| 5+ |
Schmalwand
- with
mb
| 7m, 1 | ||||
| 7- |
Eckpfeiler
- with
mb
| 8m, 2 | ||||
| Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Ankatalwand Untere Ankatalwand | ||||||
| 7+ |
★★ Maria Hilf!
- with
KP
| 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 7+ |
★★ Maria Hilf!
- with
thedark
| 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 7+ |
★★ Hans Bieringer Gedenkweg
- with
thedark
| 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 7 |
★★ Frankengold
- with
thedark
| 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Dooser Wand | ||||||
| 7+ |
★ No Chance for Klemmkeil-Manni
- with
Jeni
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
| 7- ~7- |
★ FO-Weg
- with
Jeni
| 35m | ★ Good | |||
| 7- |
★ FSK 30
- with
Jeni
| 11m | Average | |||
| 7+ |
★ Mother's Finest
- with
Jeni
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
| Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schottertaler Wand | ||||||
| 7 |
Schneckenhaus direkt
| 25m | ||||
| 7- |
★★ Tiergarten
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schottertaler Turm | ||||||
| 2 |
★ Nordostkamin
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
| Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | ||||||
| 6- |
★ Petersturm Nordwestkante
| 9m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Allersdorf Preßknockwände | ||||||
| 4+ |
★ R1
- with
KP
| 18m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
| 6- |
★★★ Adler-Route
- with
KP
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
★★ R3
- with
KP
| 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 4 |
★★ Neuer Schlingenweg
- with
Merlin
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5 |
Dreiteiler
- with
monolith
| 25m | ||||
| 6- ~5+ |
★ For the Sake of Everyone
- with
monolith
| 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
★★ Exercises in Futility
- with
Merlin
| 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 4 |
★ R18
- with
monolith
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Schwarzer Brand Starenfels | ||||||
| 6- |
★★ Büßerecke
- with
Ellen
| 12m | ||||
| 6+ |
★★ Thermik
- with
Ellen
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Sprungstein | ||||||
| 4 |
★★ Westkante
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5 |
Freispitzlerweg
- with
Revo
| 25m | ||||
| Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Emporwand | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Silberner Oskar
- with
matzka
| 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Napoleon | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Direkte Südwestwand
- with
KP
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
★★ Freundschaftsweg
- with
matzka
| 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| 8+ |
★★★ Membrane
- with
Gunter
| 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Felt more like a flash. Didn't remember anything from seven years ago. Climbed a more direct variant today that Matze told me about, which makes the top part a good deal easier, but it strays a bit from the original line and even leaves out a bolt (which is out of reach to the left), although it's the more direct line from the ledge to the anchor. Still fantastic.
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| Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Mostviel - Affalterthal Mostvieler Kletterblock | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Geißlerriss
- with
KP
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 7+ |
★ Commander Vogel
- with
KP
| 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| 6- |
★ Nordwestschleife
- with
Harald
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Rote Wand | ||||||
| 5- |
★★ Frühlingsweg
- with
Merlin
| 20m | ||||
| Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Roter Mönch | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Enzianriss
- with
Harald
| 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 6- |
★ Edelweißsteig
- with
Harald
| 22m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Good line along the diagonal crack that levels out and ends in a ledge, finishing via juggy pockets to the top.
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| 6+ |
★★ Klosterweg
- with
Harald
| 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
The start is actually 3 m to the right of the arête, the red arrow is still faintly visible. Long, but relaxed traverse below the big roof. A lot of wet patches today, which made the second half of the first pitch interesting. There are some good pockets, though, especially around the sharper part of the arête. The second pitch is a walk to the finish of Talweg and up this to the summit. #jahreserste2024
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| 5 |
Südverschneidung, Einstiegsvariante
- with
Harald
| 15m | ||||
|
This was actually the original start of Kulmbacher Weg, maybe due to vegetation at the base of the dihedral? Starting directly from below the first bolt is probably possible, but stupid.
|
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| Fri 22nd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Roter Mönch | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★ Karl Hetz Gedenkweg Direktvariante (oberer Teil)
- with
Harald
| 15m, 9 | ||||
|
Climbed only the upper part of this, after "Südverschneidung Einstiegsvariante". Selling this route as a "direct variant" of KHG is rather silly, it's a direct finish for the dihedral if anything. KHG goes relatively straight up from the start, it doesn't get any more direct. I don't know if the traverse from KHG to the left is the crux of the route, but the upper part is certainly not harder than 6+.
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| Wed 20th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Anna Fritz Gedenkwand | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Culo
- with
KP
| 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7+ |
★★ Grüne Mamba
- with
KP
| 14m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 6 |
★ 13.3.
- with
KP
| 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
★★ Indian Summer
- with
KP
| 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7- |
★★ Herbst in Kentucky
- with
KP
| 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7+ ~7 |
★★ Scheltopusik
- with
KP
| 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 7+ |
★★ Veilchen
- with
KP
| 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Loreleyblock | ||||||
| 8 ~8 |
★ Rauchender Schuh
- with
Daniel
| 12m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
| 8+ ~8 |
★ Rauchender Schuh
- with
Daniel
| 12m, 7 | ||||
| 8 |
★ No Friends on Powder Days
- with
Daniel
| 10m, 5 | Average | |||
| 8- ~8- |
★ Every Turn Is a Sign of Fear
- with
Daniel
| 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| 6+ ~6+ |
Wasserpistole und Taschenlampe
- with
Daniel
| 10m | Don't Bother | |||
| 6+ ~6+ |
★ Alter Schlingenweg
- with
Daniel
| 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| 6- |
★ Feuer frei
- with
Markus Benning
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
| 8- |
★ Ruhig Brauner
- with
Corinna
| 14m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Hohe Nase | ||||||
| 8+/9- |
2 Bier vor 4
- with
KP
| 16m | Average | |||
| 8 ~8- |
★★ Fallende Tropfen
- with
KP
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Student | ||||||
| 6+ ~6+ |
★★ Südriss
- with
Daniel
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Good classic that doesn't deserve the hate it gets from some guidebook authors. No choss in the route and it's also a really nice climb, especially for crack lovers. The direct finish is probably a tad harder, the original follows the old rings a bit to the left. Still, I think 6+ is fair.
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| Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Weißer Grat | ||||||
| 7+ A0 ~7+ ~A0 |
★★ Wolf-Albrecht-Gedenkweg
- with
Ellen
| 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
A0 move to get around the arête, the rest is really good wall climbing. Roughly 7+, might also be harder. Reaching the belay at the start is a challenge on its own, your best (and safest) option is to abseil down to it.
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| Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Bärental Bärentalwächter | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Klötzer Gedenkweg rechter Ausstieg
- with
Raimund
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Beautiful, elegant climbing up the black arête. The right-hand finish is the obvious choice nowadays, and spectacular, too.
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| Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Bärental Felsentor | ||||||
| 4 |
★ Westwand
- with
Bovist
| 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
Easy start to a ledge, then a little awkward up onto the slab, back to the left (careful, loose rock) and up the finishing slab, which is nice.
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| 7 |
★ Hanni Kerschbaum Gedenkweg
- with
Raimund
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
|
Good wall climbing, even though the rock quality doesn't look too promising from the ground. Quite the runout towards the top, and it's not too easy there!
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| Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Bärental Bärentalwächter | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Langer Weg
- with
Raimund
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Still amazing. However, next time I will probably climb it the original way, traversing in from around the corner. The start is so awfully chossy.
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| Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Neue Heimat | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ Frankenplaisir
- with
Raimund
| 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7- |
★ Kaum Zeit zum Fürchten
- with
Raimund
| 9m, 6 | Average | |||
| 8- |
★★ Neue Heimat
- with
Raimund
| 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7+ |
★★ Fair Value
- with
Raimund
| 6m, 3 | ||||
| 7- Hard |
★ Safety First
- with
Raimund
| 6m, 2 | ||||
| Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Behringer Gedenkwand | ||||||
| 9- |
★★ a Brick
- with
matzka
| 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
|
My hardest second. ;-) The bolting is a bit strange, always a bit too far on the left, which also makes the third (or so) clip scary, especially because the most important hold seems to be wet for quite some time. Tried Matzes beta in the upper part (a little more to the right, "resting" on a "jug" for a few seconds), but found it more difficult than my direct variant. A reachy lunge up left is the last hard move.
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| 9- |
★★ a Brick
- with
matzka
| 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
| Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Burglesau Burglesauer Wand und Vortürme Burglesauer Wand | ||||||
| 5+ Hard |
★ Dülfer Gedenkkante
- with
Merlin
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
Most people think this is harder, and it probably is because they're trying to climb straight up in the lower part. It's important to keep quite low and traverse to the right onto the actual dull arête instead. Still a bit athletic in the upper part.
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| Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Burglesau Burglesauer Wand und Vortürme Fellhorn | ||||||
| 6 |
★ Südriss
- with
Merlin
| 10m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
|
Original variant with hard traverse to the left in the upper part. #jahreserste2024
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| 3 |
Ostwand
- with
Merlin
| 8m | Average | |||
| Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Burglesau Burglesauer Wand und Vortürme Winklerblock | ||||||
| 4 |
★ Südostwand
- with
Merlin
| 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
|
Funny that I hadn't done this before. The obvious line. Good climb, a bit short of course.
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| Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Burglesau Burglesauer Wand und Vortürme Piz Beppo | ||||||
| 7 ~7+ |
★ Schweinfurter Weg
- with
Merlin
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
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Tough boulder problem. Didn't find the invisible crimp first go, but even then it felt hard. Maybe there's yet another trick. The book was too wet to write an entry. I'll have to bring one of the stone books next time.
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