Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun 19th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Püttlachturm | ||||||
| 6+ |
Bergseite
- with
Alex
| 10m | ||||
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#jahreserste2024
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| Sun 19th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Bleisteinwand | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Zirkel
- with
Alex
| 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 6+ |
★★ Ode an die Gelbwurst
- with
Alex
| 7 | ||||
| 8- |
★ Doppelkinn
- with
Alex
| 8 | ★ Good | |||
| 7- |
Der Kuckuck und der Esel
- with
Alex
| 9 | ||||
| Sat 4th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände | ||||||
| 8 |
Frankie Goes to Frankenjura
- with
thedark
| 20m | ||||
| 8 |
★★ Kalauer
- with
thedark
| 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 3rd May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Walter Schnell Gedenkwand | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Ramazotti Express
- with
Johannes
| 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 3rd May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Aschenbrennerwand | ||||||
| 8- |
★★ Aschenbrenner Gedenkweg
- with
Johannes
| 35m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 7+ |
★★ Schlemmerriss
- with
Markus Benning
| 35m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 7+ |
★★ Gemeinschaftsweg
- with
Harald
| 40m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Wed 1st May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Marientaler Wand Lower Sector | ||||||
| 7+ |
★★ Katze Sudan
- with
KP
| 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
★ Dickbein
- with
KP
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
★★★ Saubere-Arbeit
- with
KP
| 16m | ||||
| Wed 1st May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Marientaler Wand Obere Wand | ||||||
| 8+ ~8 |
★★★ Hängt a weng über
- with
KP
| 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| 7- |
★★ Melodie und Rhythmus
- with
KP
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
| 6 |
★★ Geisterbahn
- with
KP
| 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Dooser Wand | ||||||
| 7+ |
★ No Chance for Klemmkeil-Manni
- with
Jeni
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
| 7- ~7- |
★ FO-Weg
- with
Jeni
| 35m | ★ Good | |||
| 7- |
★ FSK 30
- with
Jeni
| 11m | Average | |||
| 7+ |
★ Mother's Finest
- with
Jeni
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
| Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schottertaler Wand | ||||||
| 7 |
Schneckenhaus direkt
| 25m | ||||
| 7- |
★★ Tiergarten
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schottertaler Turm | ||||||
| 2 |
★ Nordostkamin
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
| Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | ||||||
| 6- |
★ Petersturm Nordwestkante
| 9m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Allersdorf Preßknockwände | ||||||
| 4+ |
★ R1
- with
KP
| 18m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
| 6- |
★★★ Adler-Route
- with
KP
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
★★ R3
- with
KP
| 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 4 |
★★ Neuer Schlingenweg
- with
Merlin
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5 |
Dreiteiler
- with
monolith
| 25m | ||||
| 6- ~5+ |
★ For the Sake of Everyone
- with
monolith
| 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
★★ Exercises in Futility
- with
Merlin
| 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 4 |
★ R18
- with
monolith
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Emporwand | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Silberner Oskar
- with
matzka
| 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Napoleon | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Direkte Südwestwand
- with
KP
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
★★ Freundschaftsweg
- with
matzka
| 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| 8+ |
★★★ Membrane
- with
Gunter
| 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Felt more like a flash. Didn't remember anything from seven years ago. Climbed a more direct variant today that Matze told me about, which makes the top part a good deal easier, but it strays a bit from the original line and even leaves out a bolt (which is out of reach to the left), although it's the more direct line from the ledge to the anchor. Still fantastic.
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| Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Mostviel - Affalterthal Mostvieler Kletterblock | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Geißlerriss
- with
KP
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 7+ |
★ Commander Vogel
- with
KP
| 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| 6- |
★ Nordwestschleife
- with
Harald
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
| Wed 20th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Anna Fritz Gedenkwand | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Culo
- with
KP
| 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7+ |
★★ Grüne Mamba
- with
KP
| 14m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 6 |
★ 13.3.
- with
KP
| 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
★★ Indian Summer
- with
KP
| 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7- |
★★ Herbst in Kentucky
- with
KP
| 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7+ ~7 |
★★ Scheltopusik
- with
KP
| 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 7+ |
★★ Veilchen
- with
KP
| 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Loreleyblock | ||||||
| 8 ~8 |
★ Rauchender Schuh
- with
Daniel
| 12m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
| 8+ ~8 |
★ Rauchender Schuh
- with
Daniel
| 12m, 7 | ||||
| 8 |
★ No Friends on Powder Days
- with
Daniel
| 10m, 5 | Average | |||
| 8- ~8- |
★ Every Turn Is a Sign of Fear
- with
Daniel
| 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| 6+ ~6+ |
Wasserpistole und Taschenlampe
- with
Daniel
| 10m | Don't Bother | |||
| 6+ ~6+ |
★ Alter Schlingenweg
- with
Daniel
| 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| 6- |
★ Feuer frei
- with
Markus Benning
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
| 8- |
★ Ruhig Brauner
- with
Corinna
| 14m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Hohe Nase | ||||||
| 8+/9- |
2 Bier vor 4
- with
KP
| 16m | Average | |||
| 8 ~8- |
★★ Fallende Tropfen
- with
KP
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Neue Heimat | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ Frankenplaisir
- with
Raimund
| 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7- |
★ Kaum Zeit zum Fürchten
- with
Raimund
| 9m, 6 | Average | |||
| 8- |
★★ Neue Heimat
- with
Raimund
| 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7+ |
★★ Fair Value
- with
Raimund
| 6m, 3 | ||||
| 7- Hard |
★ Safety First
- with
Raimund
| 6m, 2 | ||||
| Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Behringer Gedenkwand | ||||||
| 9- |
★★ a Brick
- with
matzka
| 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
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My hardest second. ;-) The bolting is a bit strange, always a bit too far on the left, which also makes the third (or so) clip scary, especially because the most important hold seems to be wet for quite some time. Tried Matzes beta in the upper part (a little more to the right, "resting" on a "jug" for a few seconds), but found it more difficult than my direct variant. A reachy lunge up left is the last hard move.
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| 9- |
★★ a Brick
- with
matzka
| 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Mostviel - Affalterthal Unentwegtenwand | ||||||
| 6- |
★ Kombination
- with
Markus Benning
| 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 8 |
★★★ In Memoriam Manne
- with
Markus Benning
| 21m | ★ Good | |||
|
Pumpy sidepull action. Probably much harder if there's no chalk on the holds. Good moves.
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| Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Mostviel - Affalterthal Stubaier Wand | ||||||
| 6 |
★ Langer Weg
- with
Harald, Markus Benning
| 40m | ★ Good | |||
|
Long traverse to the right, the most difficult passage is where the traverse starts (it does with a little downclimb). Good rock, fun line.
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| Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Mostviel - Affalterthal Affalterthaler Spitze | ||||||
| 6 |
★ Fleischmann Gedenkweg
- with
Harald
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
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Not as good as Westkante, but still worthwhile. Careful with the choss on the ledge, also maybe backup the peg there.
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| 6+ |
★ Talseite
- with
Harald
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
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Actually just a combination of Westkante and Fleischmann Gedenkweg, with a few good meters of climbing in between the two.
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| Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Aufseßtal Südwand | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★ Herbstweg, Pfeilervariante
- with
Merlin
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
| 4+ |
★ Westriss
- with
Merlin
| 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| 4+ |
★ Westriss
- with
Merlin
| 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Münchser Wand | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Traumtänzer
- with
Viola
| 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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I was surprised how good this was, especially towards the top. The start is the crux, with a dynamic move right from the ledge on mediocre, slightly polished holds.
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| Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Spitzenstein | ||||||
| 4- |
★ Gründelweg
- with
Raimund
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Kleiner Spitzenstein | ||||||
| 4 |
★★ Blindschleiche
- with
Raimund
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
| 5 |
★★ Eidechse
- with
Raimund
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Lochturm | ||||||
| 3 |
★ Linke Nordseite
- with
Raimund
| 14m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Schwalbenstein | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Westwand
- with
Harald
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Neuhauser Wand | ||||||
| 6- |
★ Marienpfeiler
- with
Harald
| 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
|
Elegant wall climbing, the holds are just good enough to make it possible for the grade.
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| 7- |
★★ Direkter Grenzgänger
- with
Harald
| 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
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Great crack climbing in the beginning, then a nifty wall section with a long move to a good flake.
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| 5 |
★ Taschnerverschneidung
- with
Harald
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
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Good dihedral climbing ending in the great finish of HKG
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| 6 |
★ Helmut Krämer Gedenkweg
- with
Harald
| 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Looks contrived in the topo (the one on here is correct, don't trust the printed guide books), but is one of the best climbs here, combining all the nice features of this part of the wall.
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| Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Purzelstein | ||||||
| 4+ |
Kalte Ente
- with
Harald
| 8m | ||||
|
Short direct variant of "Bergseite", starting from the ground instead of the highest point, and going directly up instead of going around the arête.
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| 7 |
★ Talseite
- with
Harald
| 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
Fiese Wiese
- with
Harald
| 10m | Don't Bother | |||
|
Inhomogeneous, hard, weird, and grassy in a bad way. The finish is actually the original finish of "Bergseite".
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| 7 |
★ Talseite
- with
Harald
| 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
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The best line here, actually (of course I, as a lover of classic routes, have to say that). Finds the easiest way through the wall and doesn't force a straight line.
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| Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Spies Hohe Reute | ||||||
| 4+ |
★★ Willi Kapp Gedenkweg
- with
Harald
| 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Always enjoyable. I've probably never done this in temperatures above 5 degrees. :-D
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| 4 |
Südverschneidung
- with
Harald
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
Nice little dihedral, better than expected.
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| 5+ |
★ Südwand
- with
Harald
| 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| 5- |
★ Gartenzwerg
- with
Harald
| 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| 6 |
★ Heuberger Gedenkweg
- with
Harald
| 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| Wed 10th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Schauertaler Turm | ||||||
| 4 |
★ Obere Südwand
- with
Bovist
| 17m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Toni Rockstroh Gedenkwand | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Igelhaut
- with
Markus Benning
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
| 6+ |
★★★ Alter Weg
- with
Harald
| 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Mon 18th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | ||||||
| 8 |
★★ Scheide
- with
KP
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
Still brutal. There's an important foothold in the crux shortly before the anchor which I missed, but already the lower part is exhausting and mentally challenging (although the moves are awesome). Probably at least 8+.
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| Mon 18th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Left | ||||||
| 7 |
★ Zwischendurch
- with
KP
| 25m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
Quite nasty start. Once you've found the holds, it's manageable, but still tough. I should have trusted the bolt positioning, which leads you to the left after the third bolt, but since the route continues on the right in the upper part, I went directly up over the blocky, overhanging dihedral, which requires some care around a big hollow block. The top part is actually quite spectacular and exposed, up the airy arête.
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| 7- |
Mori und Jojo
- with
KP
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
|
Not a bad route. Especially the top is good in typical Röthelfels rock. Boulder start over the bulge on bad holds, easy, slightly runout middle part.
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| Sun 17th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Muggendorf Obere Muggendorfer Wände | ||||||
| 6+ |
★ R4a
- with
Markus Benning
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
|
Funky athletic moves at the beginning with heel hooks. The line in the upper part is not entirely clear, we went diagonally left after the last bolt into easier terrain.
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| 5+ |
★★ Übergangsbewegung
- with
Markus Benning
| 15m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Norisbabawand | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Variante von der KEK-Verschneidung zum Norisbaba-Direkteinstieg
- with
Harald
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
A long traverse that is listed in a "best of free climbing" list in Boulder magazine from the early 80s. Indeed a good line and a delightful adventure. Rock quality is mediocre in places and the options for natural protection are limited, though.
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