A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
vilda_hkvdf
DDjensl
Campbell Gome
Kai R.
Peter Betz
Fabian
Nino R
Christoph Rauch
Konrad
Alma
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Rokokoturm 49 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Rokokoturm
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.917285, 14.230836
- Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
- No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
- No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
- no chalk, no pof
- Sign the summit register.
- Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
- Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
- Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
access issues
Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.
Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.
Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.
ethic
You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Alter Weg | IV | ||||||
2 | Hohe Rampe | VI | ||||||
3 | Nordwestweg | VIIb | ||||||
4 | Nordwestweg Variante | VIIb | ||||||
5 | Nordwestweg Einstiegvariante | VIIc | 2 | |||||
6 | Querweg | V | ||||||
7 | ★ Talweg | VIIIa | 2 | |||||
8 |
In Sand geschrieben
FA: Thomas Willenberg, 31 Jul 2015 | XIIb | 10 | |||||
9 | ★ Nordeck | IXb | ||||||
10 | Großes Dach | VIIIa | ||||||
11 | Nahtstelle | VIIIa | ||||||
12 |
Stellares Zeitalter
AF XIIa FA: Thomas Willenberg, 2011 | XIIb | 14 | |||||
13 |
★ Siebziger Weg
AF IXa | IXc | 5 | |||||
14 |
★★ Direkter Siebziger Weg
AF IXa | IXc | 6 | |||||
15 | ★ Garten Eden | Xc | ||||||
16 | Millimetersache / Millimetervariante | Xa | ||||||
17 |
Metermaß
AF IXb | IXc | ||||||
18 |
Zeitreise M. G.
AF XIIa FA: Thomas Willenberg, 2011 | XIIb | 11 | |||||
19 | Außenriss | VIIb | ||||||
20 | Später Weg | VIIIa | ||||||
21 | Nordostweg | V | ||||||
22 | !Blockriss | VIIc | ||||||
23 | Vollständige Ostkante | VIIb | ||||||
24 | Ostkante | VIIa | ||||||
25 | Südostwand | V | ||||||
26 | Südostweg | III | ||||||
27 | Südostweg Westeinstieg | III | ||||||
28 | Achtziger Weg | VIIIb | ||||||
29 |
★★★ Südweg
In der SW-Seite, unterhalb der Scharte zum M, in Winkel den rechten zweier Risse zu gr.Terrasse(AÖ). Über Blöcke zum höchsten Punkt der Scharte. Gebrochenen Riß auf Pfeiler. Links queren, gewundenen Riß und Kamin über Band hinweg und Wand zG. FA: Strubich, 1921 | V | 60m, 3 | |||||
30 | Pfingstweg | VIIb | ||||||
31 | Sandkastenspiel | VIIIb | ||||||
32 | Hangelriss | VIIa | ||||||
33 | ★ Eisenmann | VIIIa | 70m, 3, 6 | |||||
34 | Eisenmann Steinbockvariante | VIIIa | ||||||
35 | ★★ Stahlkante | VIIIa | 70m, 3, 7 | |||||
36 |
Blechschaden
AF VIIIb | VIIIc | 70m, 2, 5 | |||||
37 |
★★ Westwand
AF IXa | IXc | ||||||
38 | ★ Bergfinkenweg | VIIIb | 2 | |||||
39 | ★ Grenzenlos | IXb | ||||||
40 |
★ Bergfinkenweg Direkte Variante
AF IXa | IXb | ||||||
41 | ★ Visafrei | VIIIb | ||||||
42 | ★ Bergfinkenweg Ausstiegvariante | VIIIb | ||||||
43 |
★ Jugendstil
with support Xa | Xc | 10 | |||||
44 |
★ Neunziger Weg
AF IXc | Xa | 5 | |||||
45 | Schwefelbrüderweg | VIIb | ||||||
46 | Direkter Schwefelbrüderweg | VIIc | ||||||
47 | Treffen der Generationen | VIIa 4 | ||||||
48 | Rokokosprung | II 4 | ||||||
49 | Rippenstück | VIIIb | ||||||
|
2. Index by grade
Grade | ![]() |
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
II/4 | Rokokosprung | ||||
III | Südostweg | ||||
Südostweg Westeinstieg | |||||
IV | Alter Weg | ||||
V | Nordostweg | ||||
Querweg | |||||
Südostwand | |||||
★★★ | Südweg | 60m, 3 | |||
VI | Hohe Rampe | ||||
VIIa | Hangelriss | ||||
Ostkante | |||||
VIIa/4 | Treffen der Generationen | ||||
VIIb | Außenriss | ||||
Nordwestweg | |||||
Nordwestweg Variante | |||||
Pfingstweg | |||||
Schwefelbrüderweg | |||||
Vollständige Ostkante | |||||
VIIc | !Blockriss | ||||
Direkter Schwefelbrüderweg | |||||
Nordwestweg Einstiegvariante | 2 | ||||
VIIIa | ★ | Eisenmann | 70m, 3, 6 | ||
Eisenmann Steinbockvariante | |||||
Großes Dach | |||||
Nahtstelle | |||||
Später Weg | |||||
★★ | Stahlkante | 70m, 3, 7 | |||
★ | Talweg | 2 | |||
VIIIb | Achtziger Weg | ||||
★ | Bergfinkenweg | 2 | |||
★ | Bergfinkenweg Ausstiegvariante | ||||
Rippenstück | |||||
Sandkastenspiel | |||||
★ | Visafrei | ||||
VIIIc | Blechschaden | 70m, 2, 5 | |||
IXb | ★ | Bergfinkenweg Direkte Variante | |||
★ | Grenzenlos | ||||
★ | Nordeck | ||||
IXc | ★★ | Direkter Siebziger Weg | 6 | ||
Metermaß | |||||
★ | Siebziger Weg | 5 | |||
★★ | Westwand | ||||
Xa | Millimetersache | ||||
★ | Neunziger Weg | 5 | |||
Xc | ★ | Garten Eden | |||
★ | Jugendstil | 10 | |||
XIIb | In Sand geschrieben | 10 | |||
Stellares Zeitalter | 14 | ||||
Zeitreise M. G. | 11 |