A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
DDjensl Victor vilda_hkvdf Campbell Gome Quaste Michael Franta Kaván
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Jungfer 18 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Jungfer 18 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.910853, 14.206763
- Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
- No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
- No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
- no chalk, no pof
- Sign the summit register.
- Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
- Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
- Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
access issues
Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.
Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.
Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.
ethic
You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Alter Weg
Von NW Kamin zur Schulter (2.AÖ). SW-Wand links von feinem Riss zu Ring u. (unterst.) Reibung z.G. FA: Walter Hünig, O.Perry-Smith & W.Baudisch, 1906 | VIIa | 40m, 2, 2 | |||
2 |
★★ Landesgartenschau
2 m re. vom AW Wand (R) zu gr. Band. Re. Kamin zur Schulter (2.AÖ). AW zG. FA: Harry Grille, K. Hilpert, G. Schmidt, Ulf Schmidt, S. Kranich, B. Adamidis, S. Spörl & K. Müller, 2006 | VIIa | 40m, 2 | |||
3 |
Gärtnereistraße
5 m rechts vom AW Rissrinne zu gr. Band. Riss rechts der "Landesgartenschau" zu Schulter (2.AÖ). AW zG. FA: Gert Friedrich & Jens Koschorreck, 2006 | VIIa | 40m, 2, 3 | |||
4 |
Westkante
FA: Manfred Vogel & H.Heller, 1983 | VIIc | 40m | |||
5 |
Direkte Westkante
FA: Manfred Vogel & G.Hühnchen, 1985 | VIIIc | 40m | |||
6 |
Nordwestweg
Von W Kamin in die Scharte. Links der Nordkante an Platten zu Band. Üh. uns Kante zum 1.R. Rechts queren zum 2.R und Rinne über nR zG. FA: Karl Beier & Otto Nollau, 1913 | VIIc | ||||
7 | Neuer Nordwestweg | VIIc | ||||
8 |
Strubichrinne
NW-WEG zum Band. Rechts queren zu R. Über Üh. zu Band, rechts queren und Rinne, zuletzt NW-WEG zG | VIIc | ||||
9 | Strubichrinne direkt | VIIc | ||||
10 |
Strubichrinne Gerade Variante
Wie die Westkante zu 1.Ring, rechtshaltend Wand an Ring vorbei zu Beginn der Strubichrinne. FA: Steffen Konkol & M.Kresse, 2003 | VIIc | ||||
11 |
★★ Dietrichweg
Wie AW Kamin zur Schulter (1.AÖ). Rechts in der SW-Wand feinen Riss 4m hoch, rechts queren und Kante z.G. FA: 1915 | VIIa | 45m, 2, 1 | |||
12 |
Ostkante
Von W Kamin in die Scharte. Linksh. Wand und Ostkante zu Band. Rechts über Üh. zu gr.SU und zu nR. Reibung zG. | VIIc | ||||
13 | Lange Ostkante | VIIc | ||||
14 | Südostriss | VIIa | ||||
15 | Südostwand | VIIIa | ||||
16 |
★★ Bergfreundschaftsweg
Ca. 15 m links von Zahl 191rechtshaltend Rippe (nR) zu 2. Ring. Wand (R) zu Rinne (4.R). Links Reibung (5.R) zur Schulter (2.AÖ). AW zG. FA: Tobias Passek, Gert Friedrich, Steffen Kranich & Ulf Schmidt, 2006 | VIIc | 40m, 5 | |||
17 | Sanftes Erräten | VIIIb | ||||
18 |
1099
Riss vom PROMENADENWEG 8m hoch und rechtsanst. über R zu vorspringender Kante. Diese zur Schulter. FA: 1994 | VIIc |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
VIIa | ★★ | Alter Weg | 40m, 2, 2 | ||
★★ | Dietrichweg | 45m, 2, 1 | |||
Gärtnereistraße | 40m, 2, 3 | ||||
★★ | Landesgartenschau | 40m, 2 | |||
Südostriss | |||||
VIIc | 1099 | ||||
★★ | Bergfreundschaftsweg | 40m, 5 | |||
Lange Ostkante | |||||
Neuer Nordwestweg | |||||
Nordwestweg | |||||
Ostkante | |||||
Strubichrinne | |||||
Strubichrinne Gerade Variante | |||||
Strubichrinne direkt | |||||
Westkante | 40m | ||||
VIIIa | Südostwand | ||||
VIIIb | Sanftes Erräten | ||||
VIIIc | Direkte Westkante | 40m |