Dolomiti di Brenta Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Dolomiti di Brenta

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1 Massiccio del Grostè 2 Vallesinella-Tuckett 3 Brenta Alta 4 Crozzon di Brenta 5 Campanile Basso 6 Torre d Ambiez 7 Cima Cee 8 Corna Rossa 9 Massiccio di Cima Brenta 10 Campanile degli Armi 11 Pozza Vecia

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131 routes in Region

New route potential Well established Steep hike 1-2 hour 2-3 hour Designated Dolomite

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.194462, 10.894024

summary

The Dolomiti di Brenta are a separate group of dolomite mountains west of the river Adige.

They are far less developed than the South Tyrolean dolomites; many of the routes require 2 days to climb.

description

The Brenta Group or Brenta Dolomites (Italian: Dolomiti di Brenta) is a mountain range, and a subrange of the Rhaetian Alps in the Southern Limestone Alps mountain group. They are located in the Province of Trentino, in northeastern Italy. It is the only dolomitic group west of river Adige. Therefore, geographically, they have not always been considered a part of the Dolomites mountain ranges. Geologically, however, they definitely are[1] - and therefore sometimes called the "Western Dolomites". As part of the Dolomites, the Brenta Group has been officially recognized as UNESCO World Heritage Site under the World Heritage Convention. Source Wikipedia

access issues

None

approach

Many of the routes are accessed from Madonna di Campiglio, a town situated on the western flank of the Brenta dolomites.

ethic

Standard Dolomites ethic, often varies greatly from area to area. But generally speaking:

• mixed trad (unless specified)
• Often runout
• pitons often used in difficult-to-protect sections
• bolting also acceptable

1.1. Massiccio del Grostè

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1 Campaniletto dei Camosci 2 Cima Grostè 3 Cima Falkner

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3 routes in Area

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.197867, 10.904830

1.1.1. Campaniletto dei Camosci

Summary:

1 route in Area

Lat / Long: 46.195841, 10.905335

approach

Si raggiunge dal passo del Grostè percorrendo il sentiero attrezzato Benini.

1.1.2. Cima Grostè

Summary:

1 route in Area

Lat / Long: 46.199677, 10.904991

description

The Cima del Grostè (sometimes also called Cima Grostè) is, according to the map, a 2898 meter high peak (Italian: Cima) in the Brenta group, a mountain range of the southern limestone Alps in the Italian province of Trentino. It is the eponym of the Grostè massif in the northern part of the Brenta. The mountain has a flattened shape to the north and west, only to the east it shows a 300 meter high wall of main dolomite.

1.1.3. Cima Falkner

Summary:

1 route in Area

Lat / Long: 46.192924, 10.905789

description

Cima molto panoramica nel gruppo delle Dolomiti di Brenta.

where to stay

Rifugio Tuckett oppure Rifugio Graffer

1.2. Vallesinella-Tuckett

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1 Torrione di Vallesinella 2 Castelletto Inferiore 3 Castelletto di Mezzo

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14 routes in Area

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.192456, 10.890601

1.2.1. Torrione di Vallesinella

Summary:

4 routes in Area

Lat / Long: 46.198941, 10.883950

1.2.2. Castelletto Inferiore

Summary:

7 routes in Area

Lat / Long: 46.194555, 10.885254

1.2.3. Castelletto di Mezzo

Summary:

3 routes in Area

Lat / Long: 46.192672, 10.890536

1.3. Brenta Alta

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1 Crag Raffael and Natalie Vidi 2 Parete Nord

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44 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.180512, 10.892040

1.3.1. Crag Raffael and Natalie Vidi

Summary:

42 routes in Area

South West Dolomite

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.202832, 10.893635

description

A sports crag with 1 and 2 pitch routes developed to celebrate local alpinists. At 2100m it’s good for a hot summers day.

approach

40 minute walk from Groste cable car terminus. Take path 316 towards Rif. Tuckett for 20 minutes. At the base of the first major descent opposite large limestone slabs there is a cairned path to the left that contours around the valley to the top of the crag then switchbacks down to its western end. The description with photos and topos can be found here https://www.campigliodolomiti.it/en/routes-trails/crag-raffaele-and-natale-vidi#dmdtab=oax-tab2

1.3.2. Parete Nord

Summary:

2 routes in Area

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.160024, 10.895490

1.4. Crozzon di Brenta

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2 routes in Crag

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.163347, 10.868642

1.5. Campanile Basso

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7 routes in Crag

Steep hike 1-2 hour

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.161964, 10.893541

1.6. Torre d Ambiez

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5 routes in Crag

Well established Morning sun Steep hike 2-3 hour Rap off Face Vertical South Crowded Dolomite

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.149357, 10.867796

approach

Dal Ristoro Dolomiti salire con servizio jeep taxi al Rif. Cacciatore, da qui in 1,30/ 2 ore si raggiunge il rifugio Agostini, altri 30 minuti per l'attacco della via Considerare circa 2 ore per la via, e 30 minuti per le calate in doppia e altri 30 minuti per il rientro al rifugio

where to stay

Rifugio Silvio Agostini

history

Via aperta da Armani e Gasperini nel 1938

1.7. Cima Cee

Summary:

3 routes in Crag

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.232698, 10.917711

1.8. Corna Rossa

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6 routes in Area

Dolomite

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.211825, 10.890310

1.9. Massiccio di Cima Brenta

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1 Torre Stefana 2 Spallone Irene

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3 routes in Area

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.183527, 10.880612

1.9.1. Torre Stefana

Summary:

2 routes in Cliff

Afternoon sun 1-2 hour Dolomite

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.180375, 10.871647

description

Bella parete a due passi dal sentiero Bogani verso il Rifugio ai Brentei

approach

Seguire il sentiero Bogani verso il rifugio ai Brentei, poco dopo la caratteristica galleria dove il sentiero scende si incrocia un canalone, si supera e si sale a sinistra per traccia e rocce rotte fino alla parete.

1.9.2. Spallone Irene

Summary:

1 route in Cliff

All day sun Wet in rain 45-60 min Dolomite

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.185910, 10.870199

description

Parete d'arrampicata vicina al sentiero che porta al Rifugio Brentei

approach

Da Vallesinella seguire le indicazioni per il rifugio Casinei e poi per il rifugio Brentei. Dopo il bivio per il rifugio Tuckett proseguire fino al punto indicato, prima della caratteristica galleria.

descent notes

Il rientro dalla cima di queste vie può avvenire percorrendo la parte finale del sentiero attrezzato SOSAT verso il rifugio Tuckett oppure calandosi a nord dello spallone.

1.10. Campanile degli Armi

Summary:

1 route in Crag

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 46.167211, 10.905016

1.11. Pozza Vecia

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43 routes in Crag

Afternoon sun 5-10 min Limestone

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.232431, 10.861763

description

Falesia calcarea, arrampicata sul verticale e leggermente strapiombante

approach

Dal passo del Grosté si supera il parcheggio e si sale in macchina lungo la strada sterrata in direzione rifugio Graffer fino ad un piccolo parcheggio (stanga). Da lì lungo il sentierino a sinistra della stanga si arriva alla falesia.